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Everything posted by betzilla

  1. I wouldn't count on it. Nobody breaks sewing machines as quickly as people who don't know how to sew.
  2. no, you will most likely need one size smaller G4 than G3. Note the G4 size chart here:
  3. Vogue fabrics is AWESOME, but I think that is tulle (what tutus are made of).
  4. Para Gear has it: Marquisette Netting. Full disclosure: I work at Para Gear.
  5. I used to build RDS' at Para Concepts. When you order an RDS from them, you get the slider itself and the lanyards you use to connect your deployment bag and pilot chute to the removable slider, instead of the top of your canopy. So at least with their model, you can do slider only or full. You can even switch from one to the other from jump to jump if you want to.
  6. Hiya Seth. HMU for help. I work at a Tony dealer. AND, I learned to jump at Skydive Allegan's predecessor -- Great Lakes Skydivers, formerly in Gobles. Yep - I peeked at your profile, lol. You'll get the same prices through my company that you would if you ordered direct, but you also get our many collective decades of experience selling and jumping Tony Suits (I have personally owned four of them, and loved every one).
  7. In my experience, once you get down into the low end of reserve sizing, the "one-size-smaller" idea about OPs doesn't really apply. In other words, I haven't found that an OP126 packs as small as a PR113.
  8. Yes. I've had a handful of bell-ringers, one of them on a V3 with magnets. It was nowhere near as bad as the ones I've had on rigs with tuck-tabs and/or velcro, however, and none of these caused any injury or discomfort that lasted into the following day. One of the tough things about discussing heard openings, is that there is no standard on what is meant by "hard" - it's a totally subjective evaluation. For instance, we know a deployment that makes the jumper see stars, lose consciousness, or worse, qualifies as a Hard Opening. I don't think concussion and/or catastrophic injury is the appropriate threshold for a TOO Hard Opening. We need an objective metric, so we can gather info and meaningfully address the problem.
  9. Doesn't sound corny at all. I suspect most of us felt that way after jump #1. So yeah. Totally normal to be nervous/scared/unsure as a new skydiver. I've gone through periods as an experienced jumper where I'm not sure the rewards outweigh the risks - I used to get really angry at myself for that. Now I accept that the desire will come back, and THAT is when I'll go jump. Don't be disappointed in yourself for letting your humanness show a little!
  10. Strongly, STRONGLY agree with this ^^^ Be careful that you aren't creating more problems than you are trying to solve...
  11. If you haven't already, I'd have a trusted rigger look it over. I might be that first "really hard" opening caused some rib damage that's now allowing your canopy to inflate too quickly. Just a wild-ass guess. These weren't the first jumps post-reline, right?
  12. You might also come back to it later. I kind of wonder if, because you're already a really good body pilot because of all your tunnel time, maybe you weren't expecting to be uncomfortable with skydiving - or AS uncomfortable with it as you suddenly are - and so you just weren't prepared for it? I don't know, maybe the lack of stuff that would occupy your mind as a newbie if you couldn't already kick ass in freefall is leaving room for your fear to expand into.... It might also be that your nervousness is being magnified by *all the other anxiety-provoking shit* going on in the world right now, that you can't really do much about. Cutting the anxiety caused by skydiving is pretty easy compared with Pandemic anxiety, for instance. Whatever the reason, it's ok to stop jumping, whether it's for now or forever. To me, it doesn't make sense to skydive if you aren't having fun. Gravity will still work if/when you want to get back at it, and you'll still be able to fly circles around chumps like me (literally and figuratively, lol).
  13. Were you having hard openings before your 6 month break too, or are they new since you came back - when did the hard openings start?
  14. I think you'd be fine with a 6cm fingertrap (PD's, for instance, are close to that length), but DIYing it would IMO be frustrating, as changing the length of the finger trap would affect the amount of 'shrinkage' in that part of the line, so there will be trial and error involved to get it just right. If it were me, I'd rather avail myself of the free replacement line pair to avoid the annoyance. Seems like 5cm is a HUGE length difference for a 124 sq ft canopy! I wonder how flight characteristics differ after that change (I suppose not collapsing on fronts is a significant improvement!)...
  15. I've packed this combo. If your rigger is good at bulk distribution, and you don't suck at packing mains, you should be fine (especially if your main is already broken in).
  16. Congrats! As the gentlemen said, what you're experiencing is par for the course. On several of my student jump days, I was literally praying for it to cloud up and rain, lol! But please, before you go back to the DZ, get those flu-like symptoms checked out if they linger!
  17. The rigger who last packed your gear can mail you a new data card with all the info about serial numbers, etc, and the latest repack only, on it, so you'll be able to prove you're in date. You'll be missing documentation of any repairs that may have been done, but that's your only disadvantage, really. If you aren't planning to jump it before its next repack is due, you don't even need to bother with that - the next rigger will give you a new data card when they pack it.
  18. Here are current price lists for Sigma parts and rigging work at UPT. When I was working as a DZ rigger, I received a regular weekly fee to pack and maintain all the school gear (tandem and student), rental rigs, and the owner's personal gear. Incidental maintenance like kill lines, overstitching, and small patches were included in that fee. Relines were not. I made my own drogue centerlines and made a generous profit on them, even charging far less than the UPT price. It's been several years since I've worked on tandem gear (I just don't have space for it these days), but for repacks I would probably add at least $20, maybe more, to the price I charge for sport gear. Needless to say, if you want to charge what UPT charges, your work needs to be factory perfect... Good luck!
  19. Sketchy strategy, IMO. Low price should not be your main consideration, *especially* when you're buying used gear -- cheap new gear will be workable; cheap used gear is a gamble. I can't tell you how many times people have come to me with their "great deal" used gear, for me to then find on inspection that there's a ton of stuff wrong with it that they need to spend hundreds of dollars to address before putting it in the air. It may have worked out well for you, but if it did, it's because you got lucky! To the OP - you can't find a used "190" reserve because few manufacturers make that specific size. You'll easily find a used PD 176 Reserve with a little patience, and maybe even an Optimum 193. There are lots of used gear groups on facebook, so cruise those a bit while you're waiting for your new container. I'd personally recommend a used PDR over a new Rush, for reasons already expressed above...
  20. SOME manufacturers require tacking the soft links. Aerodyne and Icarus World do. PD does not. Not sure about Precision, NZA (which doesn't make reserves anyway) and any others.
  21. On mini-risers they'll stick out before they take a set, or if they take a set without the tab tucked in. So if I'm putting gear together for a customer I know isn't amazing at noticing things about their gear, I'll tack them. I also tack wayward main slinks that come into my loft sticking out of the riser. The tacking allows the slink to be "trained" to stay inside the riser.
  22. Agreed. But if I have to snip the tack to inspect them, I will only re-tack if the manufacturer instructions require it. And when I DO tack, I use a wide stitch to make it easy on the rigger who has to inspect the slink next time around, if they need/choose to pull the tack out to do so.
  23. Actually, it is on the new sizing chart. Pilot 104 is standard fit
  24. Your kill line is too short (they shrink with time). Ask your rigger to lengthen or replace the kill line, or if the pilot chute is old and worn out, you may choose to just replace the entire pilot chute.