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bergh

Post your Camera Helmet .....

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-Factory diver helmet
-BH box for PC1000, box intrgrated to helmet with carbon fibre
-Self made top mount plate and detachable frame for still camera (Olympus E400), polycarbonate and carbon fibre.
-Cam eye for PC
-tongue switch for still
-weight without cameras ~1.2kg
-weight with cameras ~2.3kg

"Fear is the path to the Dark side"
(Master Yoda)

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1. I agree on BGill's flat-top pro comment. There is no reason for that sight post to extend past the helmet post except to deflect risers from hitting the plug on the still camera. I would cut it down.



Agreed, already addressed.

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2. Make some sort of deflector (non-snagging) for the plug on the still camera (both helmets). You are just asking for those plugs to be sheared off, and you could easily destroy a camera (lost a camera that way b4).



That sounds like good advice. But i'ts never happened to me before. Again that doesn't mean it can't happen. What kind of plug would you suggest?

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3. That looks like a huge snag hazard on your Optic still camera. I don't know what type of quick-release you are using, but I would prefer one that is lower and wider. Or just use a screw through the helmet to the bottom of the camera. They are pretty quick to use, and pose much less of a hazard.



I've got a Hakuba "Quick Shoe" Mount on the still on the Optik, & The FTP. I've never had anything snag the still on the Optik, but i have been bitch slapped on the left side of my head where the camcorder is, That sucks, i gaurentee it. (Chest strap too tight)

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4. Personally, I hate side-mounting really wide cameras. Don't know why you would ever put that Optic on rather than the FTP.



It's the third one i've ever flown, you should have seen the Bat-Rak i started with. I fly the Optik for fun actually. The quick release system on the Optik is a red cable that completely releases the chin strap. The Optik is much lighter than the FTP as well.

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5. I like the extra straps on the video camera on the FTP. They're good insurance (years ago I lost a couple of cameras on opening).



I'm going to order some black straps, just had those in my junk box actually. The Optik has the two black straps as well, you just can't see them as well.

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6. On the FTP, you have a 50mm lens on your still cam, and what appears to be a very wide angle lens on the video camera. Any reason for the mis-match?



I've never flown with that lens. I had all of my lenses out for all of my cameras, and i was just fooling around with that, forgot it was in there when i took the pics.
-Richard-
"You're Holding The Rope And I'm Taking The Fall"

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What kind of plug would you suggest?



It is not the best picture in the world, but if you look at the following link, you can barely see a deflector gaffer taped to the still camera at the bottom of the frame (you can just barely see the plug behind it):

http://www.philroberson.com/skydivephotos2007/J2727.htm

I have a similar one on my 20d. Basically, the idea is to put something on the camera so the risers hit that something, and transfer the force to the whole body, rather than hitting the plug and shearing it off. I just used a hunk of solid nylon I had on hand, cut it roughly to size, and shaped it by eye on a bench grinder. But you could use any wood, plastic or aluminum. I'm sure a creative mind in a decent shop could come up with all sorts of different techniques.

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Haha. I get it.

How many steps are involved in your cutaway system anyway? I would skip flipping the latch forward and just release the ratchet and pull the bone back... That could shave off 400 feet or more under stress.

Everyone should practice whatever method is available to get rid of an entangled helmet. If you find your self in the s#!* you need something to keep you busy anyway.
"... this ain't a Nerf world."

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Well, I know this thread started a long ass time ago, but it got re-hashed recently, right around the time I got finished with my lid, so I thought, why not post it? As an aside, thanks to a lot of the people in this thread, and on the rest of the camera forum for ideas.

The Goods:
- Square 1 Hawkeye top and side mount helmet
- Self-fiberglassed camcorder box
- Sony PC120 video camera
- Pentax istDL D-SLR still camera
- Stroboframe 300-QRC quick release mount
- Self made tongue switch shutter release (custom molded might I add!)
- Hypeye Mini status indicator
- Self made 2 ring cutaway system

I say it's finished, but I've yet to get a ringsight, it will probably come later in the year. The only part of the setup I'm not very happy with is the finish on the box. I have to admit, patience when working with fiberglass and Bondo is not my strong suit, so I got tired of working on it and adopted an "Oh well, it's structurally sound" attitude. I also had to angle the box signifigantly to the right, leaving a large line-snaggable gap on the back side of the helmet, so once the box was sturdily mounted using hardware, I fiberglassed the gap over making it more or less flush. This as well is not perfect, as you can see the edge of the fiberglass sheet that was used under the paint. For paint I used a black epoxy based spray paint that is intended for use on kitchen appliances! Comments and criticisms are welcome (just be gentle on the criticisms part!)
God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires.

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I put together an FTP last summer and revamped it this winter when I added an HC5. I re-did the Top with an extra wide plate from Bonehead and used manfroto mounts (originally I used skysystems quad cam mounts but they allowed too much movement as the plate would wiggle a bit when it was attached.)

I've also attached a closeup of my flash bracket (I've only jumped it once, sub terminal from a Helo)

Scott
Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

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Yes I have a bite switch hooked up through the hardwire remote control. I have the Cameye II hooked in also. You need above average soldering skills. Take the board out of the remote control, when it's all wired I used heat shrink to hold everything together. The 4mp still camera produces pictures good enough to print 13"x19", if taken in good light. The HC7, I understand, has a 6mp still camera.

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Well it took me a while before I could post my little (and expensive) jewel. The TonFly Fuego Pro Convertor, with a homemade backflip box for the HC5 and cameye II. Only modification that still has to happen is to fill it up with lot's of stickers because the paint really comes off fast... But anywayz I love the rugged look better than those shiny (dont drop me) helmets.

Back to filming again. Over and out,
MisterCrash.
All speeding past collide and crashing, I'm in paradise.

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My upgrade from my FF2 and pc1000.

-Cookie Rok topmount
-Sony CX7 in a blackbox
-Extra plate for using my digital still, or CX7
-Painted matte black

I wanted a more base friendly helmet after I took a good riser strike on my FF2, and the camera on the side beat up my neck a little more.

_justin

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I've gathered quite a bit of useful info from other peoples' pictures so I thought I'd post mine here (but mainly just to provide some more to go in Matt's collection ;)).

I've been jumping my 2K Composites FFC for a few years, with an aluminium bracket made by my good friend Billy Payn (there's currently a Sony DCR-PC330 sidemounted with a Hama 0.45x lens) but I've recently added a Canon 350d (with standard 18-55 mm kit lens) mounted on a Stroboframe. It's a Brent Finley cross sight on a removable Schumamcher articulated extender and Brent Finley clamp. It's mounted on the left because that's my dominant eye and as per Norman's advice, it keeps it away from the pilot chute side. The tongue switch is from Conceptus. It's a Bonehead Composites chincup and the quick release is homemade.

I've not got to jump it with the stills yet; hopefully this weekend!

Skydiving Fatalities - Cease not to learn 'til thou cease to live

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