jumper03 0
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Jeffrey 0
QuoteHow do you get the pin in then without damning someone to rigger hell? Do you have a trick or are you just that patient? Maybe it's me...
Have you tried this?
Jeff
Only on the female blow up dolls never on the loop.
you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo
RiggerLee 61
One trick is to leave a temp pin in under the last flap as you pull up the loop to put the rip cord in. It's still a bit hard even then. It's also hard on the last two grommets and of course you must remember to retreave the pin. I grant this is not the best solution.
Lee
Lee
Jeffrey 0
QuoteOnly on the female blow up dolls never on the loop.
Stratostar,
I hope your using the special applicator for that.
Jeff
marinho 0
QuoteHow do you get the pin in then without damning someone to rigger hell? Do you have a trick or are you just that patient? Maybe it's me...
Hi Steven,
I use a closing loop made of spectra 725 finger trap about 10" in the center of it!
Try that and let me know!
Cheers,
Gus Marinho
jumper03 0
QuoteQuoteHow do you get the pin in then without damning someone to rigger hell? Do you have a trick or are you just that patient? Maybe it's me...
Hi Steven,
I use a closing loop made of spectra 725 finger trap about 10" in the center of it!
Try that and let me know!
Cheers,
A guppy cord! Someone showed me one a few months ago but it was too big to fit through the cypres. I'll try to make a smaller one and see how that works.
Scars remind us that the past is real
Jeffrey 0
The same will work with a standard Cypres pull-up cord and helps a lot.
Jeff
Jeff
In reference to the difficulty of inserting a UPT Vector fat pin, try putting either your T-Bodkin or closing pin into the "circle" on the end of the pin and using it as a pushing tool. Hold the bodkin or pin close to the center, (so it is perpendicular to the pin) and push. Trick stolen from Johnny K who got it from Greg at UPT.
jheadley 0
Use the cypres line pull up cord to get the loop through the cutter, after that, switch them out. I use one made of 1000lb spectra fingertrapped in the middle.
QuoteQuoteIt would add a machining step adding significant cost. I haven't found any real need for a more "pointy" pin.
How do you get the pin in then without damning someone to rigger hell? Do you have a trick or are you just that patient? Maybe it's me...
Try a "pin follower".
Para-Gear sells this variety.
http://www.paragear.com/templates/base_template.asp?group=29#S7935
Don't think it would work with the UPT "fat pin" though.
... but it works great with the standard Capewell straight pin y'all see on 90-something percent of the reserve rip cords out there. Also, another tired and true "trick", if you've got the time, is to get the container closed all the way and when you'd go to put the real reserve rip-cord / pin in, just put one of those "pointy" Cypres Temp Pins in, place a hundred lbs of packing weights or so on the container, let the pack-job "think small" over night and come back the next day and pin it for real.
Also, also, remember not to make the reserve loop so short / the reserve pin so "tight" that it exceeds the 22lb (max) pull force on the reserve ripcord... and, same thing, different angle, remember that a too short reserve closing loop + using a positive tension device, etc. can damage the reserve loop anchor... I've seen one rig grounded for this (damage to the reserve loop anchor).
QuoteQuoteOur local master rigger recently opened up someone's reserve and found clamps STILL ATTACHED to the canopy
Learn about your gear, people... in the end, you're responsible for saving your own ass, and the fact that it's someone else's fault and/or you didn't know any better isn't much consolation if you're dead.
How will learning about my gear help me diagnose a clamped reserve hiding behind a rigger's seal?
After knowing someone who died because some other rigger left a clamp in the reserve pack-job of the rig she was jumping... this, in part, motivated me to "leare more about my gear" by getting my rigger's ticket.
A suggestion... "If you're going to use clamps when packing a reserve, make sure there is a very long and brightly colored lanyard / flag on the end of the clamp... consider too attaching the other end of said flag to something heavy; like a small block V8."
birdshit 0
sorry for the wuffo question (NEVER PACKED A RIG), but can you tell me how it should look? I assume the cable should run through the two silver rings? I just want to learn.
QuoteQuoteQuoteOur local master rigger recently opened up someone's reserve and found clamps STILL ATTACHED to the canopy
Learn about your gear, people... in the end, you're responsible for saving your own ass, and the fact that it's someone else's fault and/or you didn't know any better isn't much consolation if you're dead.
How will learning about my gear help me diagnose a clamped reserve hiding behind a rigger's seal?
Anybody who would close a reserve with clamps still on the canopy should LOSE HIS/HER TICKET. For life. this has killed people in the past. It's simply unforgiveable. And anybody who finds it and says nothing is an accomplice.
_______________________________
I have seen reserves packed by other riggers but, I've never used them. Ya' gotta notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the free-bag... don't you?
Boggles my little brain. Chuck
QuoteYa' gotta notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the free-bag... don't you?
It would appear not, but I don't use them so I wouldn't know.
QuoteBoggles my little brain.
Your not the only one!
you can't pay for kids schoolin' with love of skydiving! ~ Airtwardo
mark 104
QuoteYa' gotta notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the free-bag... don't you?
There are two ways to use clamps. If you use clamps on the outside of the canopy, on the high points of the cells (the method illustrated in The Parachute Rigger Handbook) or to hold the width-reduction folds or cocoon in place, then yes, you'd notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the bag.
The other way to use clamps is to hold line groups together, as an aid to going from over-the-shoulder pro-pack to layout on the floor. If you were in a hurry, you might miss the B-line or C-line clamp.
Either way, I'd think you ought to notice if your tool count was off.
Mark
QuoteQuoteYa' gotta notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the free-bag... don't you?
It would appear not, but I don't use them so I wouldn't know.QuoteBoggles my little brain.
Your not the only one!
___________________________________
Like you, I don't use and have never used clamps to pack a reserve. I've never been accused of an 'ugly' pack job or bad openin, either.
Chuckg
QuoteQuoteYa' gotta notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the free-bag... don't you?
There are two ways to use clamps. If you use clamps on the outside of the canopy, on the high points of the cells (the method illustrated in The Parachute Rigger Handbook) or to hold the width-reduction folds or cocoon in place, then yes, you'd notice the clamps when you put the canopy in the bag.
The other way to use clamps is to hold line groups together, as an aid to going from over-the-shoulder pro-pack to layout on the floor. If you were in a hurry, you might miss the B-line or C-line clamp.
Either way, I'd think you ought to notice if your tool count was off.
Mark
_______________________________
Thank you, for that! I think, one would notice them too. From reading this thread, they do get missed.
Chuck
When learning to pack using riggerrob's tools I had the advantage that they all had bungies trailing from them so there was no way I could forget them on the canopy no matter where they were clamped.
riggerrob 561
During the 2007 PIA Symposium, there was a rumor floating about UPT switching to forged pins for Sigmas.
Something about them being more difficult to bend - than the current stamped pins.
Mind you, any rigger that can bend those thick, stamped pins needs a lesson in loop length.
Something about them being more difficult to bend - than the current stamped pins.
Mind you, any rigger that can bend those thick, stamped pins needs a lesson in loop length.
riggerrob 561
When the Dolphin came out there was a lot of talk about catching the housing.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If the housing is properly hand-tacked, then snagging is no longer a risk.
The best rigs (i.e. early Talon) have a pieced of tape to tell you exactly where the end of the housing should be. As long as the housing is tightly sewn - with the end ferrule even with the edge of the tape - there is no gap for the RSL to snag on the end of the housing.
IOW many reserves use the end of the housing as the second "RSL guide ring."
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If the housing is properly hand-tacked, then snagging is no longer a risk.
The best rigs (i.e. early Talon) have a pieced of tape to tell you exactly where the end of the housing should be. As long as the housing is tightly sewn - with the end ferrule even with the edge of the tape - there is no gap for the RSL to snag on the end of the housing.
IOW many reserves use the end of the housing as the second "RSL guide ring."
riggerrob 561
Wow!
Strato star,
We agree on a second point.
Whatever the fashion may be, I still pack in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Granted, this may mean grounding a NARO student rig ... because the last deployment bent the pin and we have been waiting X number of months for a replacement ripcord to come from South Africa ...
In the end, I still route NARO RSL's in accordance with the manual ... through BOTH guide rings.
Strato star,
We agree on a second point.
Whatever the fashion may be, I still pack in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Granted, this may mean grounding a NARO student rig ... because the last deployment bent the pin and we have been waiting X number of months for a replacement ripcord to come from South Africa ...
In the end, I still route NARO RSL's in accordance with the manual ... through BOTH guide rings.
How do you get the pin in then without damning someone to rigger hell? Do you have a trick or are you just that patient? Maybe it's me...
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