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topper

Triathlon Slammer - Painful

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Bit of background info.

I have 41 jumps, 15 of these on my own canopy which is a Tri 190 DOM 12/2005, canopy was bought new and I'm loading it 1:1.

I have my BPA packing certificate, and I am pretty confident in my packing ability. I've been finding that the Tri snivels a bit too much for me, so I have been changing slight things in my pack job to speed the opening.

Rolling the nose or the tail makes no difference. It only seems to respond to slider positioning and quartering.

Anyway, I went to Langar this weekend, first time I've been, nice DZ ! First jump, opening fine, and getting quicker, then the 2nd jump of the day came.

Simple solo flat jump, nothing different, body position felt fine, no wobbles and I wasn't even slightly head down.

WHACK !! :o.......................[:/]

Felt something go "POP" in my left rib cage (which is hopefully just a bruised rib), then major pain in my thighs where I had been "FORCED" further down into the harness (See pic for bruise on inner thigh !!).

Took me 5-10 seconds to get my head working again, landed fine with no issues.

Now, on my pack jobs I have not been rolling the nose, and I quarter the slider through the nose. To try and make the opening quicker, I have gradually on each jump not been pulling the slider as far through the nose.

This is the only thing I changed on this particular pack job, and even on this one it's not as if the slider was just "stuffed" in the middle.

I know it's difficult to comment, but do you reckon it was a pack problem or just a "it happens ocasionally" problem.

Cheers
Chris

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Enjoy the snivel ;) Most people are jumping canopies that open slower then the Tri, why are you trying to speed it up?



Not my Tri they aren't !! Must be a good 1000ft if packed with slider fully quartered.

I'll give the mesh a miss thanks, it's put me off BASE for life that opening!!

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always quarter the slider, you probably dont need to roll the nose, just tuck it in. how much did you roll the tail too?



it was quartered, just not pulled as far through the nose (if that makes sense), I didn't roll the nose, just tucked it.

Tail not rolled that much, maybe 4-5 turns just to keep all in place.

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What are you counting as a 1000 feet? From when you release the Pilot chute until the canopy is fully open, or when the canopy is out of the bag and before the slider has started to come down the lines? A 1000 foot opening if its the second part is about 7-12 seconds. Thats almost a streamer... I've mentioned this many times on here, next jump just look at the altimeter the whole time at pull time. Stare at it to see what it is when you are at each phase of inflation and depolyment and I'll bet you will find that it is not 1000 feet but more likely 500-700.

Mesh sliders should not be taken to terminal unless there is a special need like a BASE jump. They will open like you just experienced the entire time.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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I also have a Triathlon 190 that I bought new one year ago. I load it at about 1.0. I have about 100 jumps on it and have only had one opening that I would describe as hard. It did not leave bruises, but it put a kink in my back for a few days.

I am a newbie, but from what I read here, I think it just happens sometimes, no matter what you are jumping or how well you pack.

I still love my Triathlon.

Glad you are ok.
... Marion

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I have a triathlon, I've got close to 1000 jumps on it. I do have to say, that packing is important on that canopy, I've had some really hard openings but for the most part its been a great canopy. Do yourself a favor, try not to pack that canopy any different than the manufacture recommends. Yes they do have a long snivel, general 1000 feet from the time the pilot shoot sees daylight until you are in the saddle. Good luck with it. be careful.

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Mesh sliders should not be taken to terminal unless there is a special need like a BASE jump. They will open like you just experienced the entire time.



You realize that the large Katanas all have partial mesh sliders, right? You also realize that they open like a Crossfire...nice long snivel, 1000ft from PC to canopy, very comfortable.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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I have a triathlon, I've got close to 1000 jumps on it. I do have to say, that packing is important on that canopy,



both of mine (1998 220, 80 jumps, 2004 210, 25? jumps) have been more than forgiving of my highly inconsistent packing. With the new fabric, it bordered on trash packing. I initially was getting very long snivels with packer jobs, so mine are done very simply for faster openings. The worst openings have tended to be boogie/packer ones.

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Get the linespecs from Aerodyne and have someone to help you check the lineset. The best option is always to contact the manufacturer first but here are some ideas:
You may try to pull on rear risers slightly to speed up the inflation. Do it slowly and evenly to avoid line twists. I'm not sure if it is a good advice at 45 jumps so someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
I guess another option is to cut a small hole on the slider (your rigger can do it). Start with a very small one and increase diameter until you reach the perfect opening for you. It is important to pack the same way while making these test jumps.
Good luck
Engineering Law #5: The most vital dimension on any plan drawing stands the most chance of being omitted

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I jump a Raven IV (282 sq. ft.) as a main, and about 40-50 jumps ago I had a pocket installed on my slider to slow my openings. I was getting cracked on almost every jump. I now see openings in the 800-1100 ft range. When I want to end the snivel early, I simply pull on the rear risers and the slider pops down quickly. You may find you can pack as usual and use this method on every jump. Ask your rigger or instructor about it first, though...you could get your paws caught in a line twist if you grab your risers too soon!:o Make sure your canopy is opening on-heading before grabbing the rears!B|



The Braver the Bird...The Fatter the Cat.

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I have 45 jumps, the last 6 of which have been on my new tri 190, and most of those have been hard. it opened slowly twice, but once was line twists, and the other was a 90 degree off heading. From reading on here, it sounds like line stowing is what most people see as the culprit, but i've noticed that the canopy comes out of the bag at normal speed, but it goes from snivel to full inflation way too fast. both times it opened soft for me, i'd tried rolling the 3 cells on either side of the nose in 4-5 times and leaving the center cell un-rolled. i know i said one was twists, and the other was off heading, but on the twists one, someone moved my rig mid pack job and i didn't take a good look at it before finishing it, and the off heading one, i was getting pretty low, and my body positon wasn't the best, so i didn't blame the canopy. that's how it's packed right now, so we'll see on the next jump. good luck!!
God made firefighters so paramedics would have heroes...and someone can put out the trailer fires.

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Yes I do ;) I was refering to the all mesh sliders like a CRW Tri, a Lightning or a BASE canopy would have.



I call BS. I have taken a BASE canopy to full terminal with both fine mesh and LARGE mesh sliders and 32" non collapsible PC. I rolled the piss out of the nose cells (3 to each side, center wrap around the packjob). I have to say my original Sabre has slammed me harder than the Troll taken to terminal.

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Tell you what, Topper.

(Assumption: Body position is good, fall-rate is normal for throw-out, line set is OK, line stows are even and stow bands are of similar size across the board)

(Warning: What packing method applies to one brand/model of canopy does not necesarrily translate well to other brands/models)

I fly a Tri190 and I loved it from the get-go BECAUSE I could easily control the opening speed with the slider positioning. I pushed it in and got brisk, pulled it out more and got slow and soft. It has over 700 jumps on it now and it still performs beautifully. Only one hard opening and that was when I was experimenting with the slider positioning (found out how far TOO far in is
:D)

As you are already finding out, pulling the nose of the slider out slows down your opening, pushing it in speeds it up.

Triathlons do not need the nose of the canopy rolled. A simple pro-pack is recommended and works extremely well with this canopy. Of course, you are going to get conflicting opinions to whatever is presented to you. Work with the slider and you will see the differences in opening speeds.

I got my canopy on a steal because the previous owner put 200 jumps on it and did not like the long snivel he was packing and rather than try adjusting the slider nose he got all pissed off and only wanted to get rid of it...to my financial benefit.:)
It's important that you properly quarter the slider with the nose out and the sides inside the stabilizers. It's also important that when you pushed the non-rolled nose into the canopy that you only push it in so that the nose falls straight down in line with the lines you have in your other hand...not way up into the tail and not just let go after flaking. You will want to do the slider nose positioning AFTER you push in the nose of the canopy and then pull the slider out to its proper position at that time.

This will help...consistency is the key after you figure out just how fast/slow you want it to open.

Since you didn't address opening heading, I won't go into that here except to say that Triathlons are well known for opening on-heading when packed evenly.
My reality and yours are quite different.
I think we're all Bozos on this bus.
Falcon5232, SCS8170, SCSA353, POPS9398, DS239

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I put 150 or so jumps on my Triathlon (220, 4.0 line set) and I found it to be very sensitive to small variations on packing - I had some very long scary snivvelly openings, and some very hard slammers - especially if I had any forward speed at all during opening (flare outta that track ALL THE WAY ). ;)

If you're careful and consistent with packing it, it's a joy to fly.
7CP#1 | BTR#2 | Payaso en fuego Rodriguez
"I want hot chicks in my boobies!"- McBeth

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It's important that you properly quarter the slider with the nose out and the sides inside the stabilizers. It's also important that when you pushed the non-rolled nose into the canopy that you only push it in so that the nose falls straight down in line with the lines you have in your other hand...not way up into the tail and not just let go after flaking.



Do you have a picture, so I can compare it with what I do? :)
* Don't pray for me if you wanna help - just send me a check. *

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These have GOT to be the stupidest drawings aver created by man...maybe, just maybe they'll give you an idea...:D:D:D

Try, try real hard, not to make fun of the draawings...but I know that I'm asking the impossible.:D:D:D
My reality and yours are quite different.
I think we're all Bozos on this bus.
Falcon5232, SCS8170, SCSA353, POPS9398, DS239

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