likestojump

I am not a big boy, but I will weigh in anyways. Yes, it's a good idea. Costwise if you get a rig that has chest and hip ring it will be very inexpensive to replace the main lift web. Just make sure it has a Large or XL yoke (I am assuming your have a large-ish chest).

I have. And the major point taken from that thread supports the point that I am making - Type13 being the only deciding factor because of it's strength is overkill.

Yes. I have a new 2K3 with Double tuck tabs & Magnetic riser covers, absolutely superior pin protection, built with the best materials (7K lbs webbing) and it flexes with my body. I would put it up against any of the rigs out there. At what point does having stronger webbing stop making a difference ? Do you feel that using T13 instead of T7 is really a functional advantage ? by the same argument (if I am understanding you correctly), a car made of steel is better than of plastic. I believe the current market seems to think that it's unnecessary.

googling his username reveals this : http://www.justguys.net/kdrivas1989 ha !

Wow, as a seller I would be very hard pressed to find that period of time reasonable. I usually stipulate a 7 calendar day period that starts the day the product is received. Since we haven't heard from the seller I want to mention that I very much agree with the possibility that davelepka presented - a cutaway resulting in a sunfade spot. I am also attaching a few pics of an all-blackberry canopy that had under 30 jumps when was cutaway and left in the tree for a few weeks. Unfortunately in the almost 6 weeks time lots of things could have happened (all these are hypotheticals) - a cat could have peed on the canopy and that too can result in an uneven fade spot, as can leaving the canopy unpacked in your sunroom. Since this is brought out in public, it would be super interesting to hear from the seller, as every story has at least two sides.

Why ?

That option already exists. When you click on advanced search one of the options is Sort. The default choice is to search based on relevance. The second choice based on Date. Good luck.

The most common reason to find something like that in the US would be that it was used by a government agency and was "De-miled" by removing the lines. Many times those canopies will also have an ink stamp of the owner agency. I am assuming a similar is possible in the UK. I wouldn't chance trying to make this airworthy again :)

I am wondering why you want a 308 stitch machine ? A double throw is not as common as a regular single throw 304, and is an absolute bitch to pick out :) I own a Consew 199R-1A (the 304 stitch) and the costs of converting it to a 2A (308 double throw) when I checked into it were fairly high. I have also owned a Singer 20U and that machine was easy to use and the parts are very easily obtainable. I also use a Singer 31-15 for straight stitching and it's a wonderful machine that I got dirt cheap. Changed some parts around, added a servo motor recently and the thing is just awesome. as far as getting a bartacker - if you want a cam driven one, you will have a hell of a time finding one that has a center start/stop pattern. And if you will want to have one converted, it will be damn expensive. My opinion is that an end-stop tacker should suffice unless you are doing some really high end stuff. The Singer (2)69W series and Juki 980/1850 series seem to be popular, as well as the Pfaff 3334. Or just shell out the big bucks for the Juki LK-1900 series electronic tacker that is discussed here : http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=4269477;search_string=1900ahs;#4269477

You make the classic mistake of quoting US laws to a non-US entity. The OP is bound by Ukranian laws, which may be different (no idea if they are, or not). Also he just stated that it's possible to reverse engineer something, but he also said that he contacted the makers and the system he uses is done with the permission of the inventor (or at least so I read it)

And what I meant to say was exactly what I said. Kurt was the winning bidder on that auction :)

http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?username=PeteS;

yes he did. wow, I am stunned by what the canopy went for. I bet it's one of the very last PCs produced at Pioneer.

if the damage is isolated to the laterals only, Sunpath will repair for $150 + shipping + inspection. re : http://sunpath.com/web_en/download/docs/repairpricing.pdf Any Master Rigger should legally allowed to repair it, but for $150 my choice would be to send it to the maker.

It would help to know the total # of jumps on the Sabre and the amount of repacks on the PDR and options that the container has. Those three variables can swing to the tune over over $1K

yes

well, you also list a 3.67 WL in your profile, so I wouldn't really use you as a baseline for all things safe or proper ...

You shouldn't use a knife to remove the leftovers of busted rubberbands from the dbag.

Actually you hit all the valid points, with the bottom line being that whatever video he produces will be useless at best :) Thus the recommendation to not use a camera for first 200 jumps. I would like to repeat my point that if the OP really wants video for tutoring, there's no better method than outside video, especially if the vidiot is also a good flyer/teacher and is willing to give feedback.

Radio on students = you can get realtime instructions from qualified personnel. Camera (worn by the student) = a shitty POV of the sky with nothing in it. Not useful for tutoring at all, except for when you get video of yourself hitting the tree/garbage dumpster/other stationary object or end up landing in the powerlines/forrest, etc - that way your instructor can tell you "How the FUCK did you not see yourself heading straight for THAT !!!!". If you want video that will let you review aspects of your jump you need an outside video person.

Hold on, you are confusing me. Are you buying a gun or parachute gear ? Like i said earlier - if you compare apples to ballbearings you may find some slight inconsistencies. For shits and giggles take a look at student gear at 10+ dropzones, and then look at their safety reccord, specifically how many times their gear failed to work (not to be confused with their students failing to think).

I have packed a Navigator 260 with dacron lines into a D6. Based on that, I think a Safire2-230 should work well, maybe a little soft, but not a problem.

age does not always translate into quality my container is 12 years old. my main is 15 years my cypres is 8 years old - I certainly don't feel like I am taking any shortcuts. and since you brought something other than parachutes into the apples to ballbearings comparison - there are guns that people use on regular basis that are 2+ decades old and are as good as new due to the fact that they are regularly and properly maintained.

Larry : http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?username=oldman; I would second talking to old timers at the DZ. Even if they don't have the older gear, they shoudl be a great hands on resource on packing and the ancient technique that people call "spotting". They may even let you know what a WDI is, and what to do with it :)

Looks like a Precision soft link