KevinMcGuire

Don't quite know. I quit 4 days ago and I've been a irritable prick ever since

Depends on what type of beeds they were and where you put them

QuoteI did not say "barrel down". I said the barrel end to the riser. That puts the thread end of the opening to the lines. My mistake. I misread what you had written. I thought by "barrel end" you ment the open end of the barrel and as such meant barrel down. When was the last time you saw a line come off an open link? I have seen this happen 4 times through out the years. True it is not a very common occurance but it does happen If you don't agree with this method, tell it to Dan. I just stated what the manual said. I was not trying to upset anyone perticularly you. I just meant that the PPM has some great info but there are much more up to date methods avalible than what is mentioned in the PPM. Untill some one writes some thing new, we need to share our techniques with each other in forums like these.

Oh yea. One other thing. PPM might say to put the links oppisite each other but lets face it, while those manual have a wealth of info in them, they are also rather antiquated. I know that I have just committed a cardnal sin by saying that, but so what it's true

Putting the link so that the barrel is "down" creates a higher possability of the barrel and threads of the link causing abrasion to the selvage edge of the riser as it wiggels around. Often links come from the link manufacture with burrs on them which need to filed off so that they are not a threat to the riser. However, filing the link prior to shipping with the canopoy is not always done sufficently enough to prevent this damage. As to the notion that the barrels should be flipped opposite each other so that they can lay flatter in the container, I would say that the risk of loosing out board lines far out ways the need to have them lay flatter in the pack tray. Here's why. If you are stacking your risers one on top of another, then the two will become a spot where they will dig into the jumpers back and any bennifit gained by "flipping" the link has been lost by stacking them. Instead, I prefer to "fan" the risers out so that they do not become a hard point digging into the jumpers back

Nice first project. Keep it up. Better/cooler things will soon be in reach

Check out Greg Gasson. Been jumping since he was a yit and he's Still going hard

Got velcor on mine. I find it faster/easier to get the toggles in place correctly with velcro than elastic or T-3. I don't really care if my lines get fuzzy. I've got the machines to deal with it

You may be right. The picture is quite fuzzy

You will definitely want to change out that brake line before the next jump. Here are a some possible causes of the damage. 1) It may be caused by the toggle as it has been repeatedly extracted form the "cats eye". Take a look into getting better toggles if your present set appears rough where the brake line would sit while stowed. With out actually seeing the the line, I would say this is the most likely explanation. 2) The Guide ring may be rusted or other wise damaged in some way that would cause abrasion to the line. chances of this are slim as guide rings don't usually get smacked around much 3) Your canopy may have a tendency to open hard or asymmetrically, and thus it may be placing an unequal amount of load on that side of the canopy during deployment

Man you guys must be some bored M*********kers

thanks for your patience. I'm neck deep in some things at the moment but I haven't forgotten. I'll have something together in about a week. Kevin

Years ago I was riding right seat in an otter that my friend was flying. He was flying for a company that was doing drop tests using very large and very heavy boxs contaning electronic equipment which were being pushed out on static lines. As each box left, we could feel the plane lurch a bit untill finally all the boxes were all gone. A moment later, the guy in back pushing stuck his head into the cockpit and said "Can you please call down to the guys on the ground and let them know that I forgot to hook up the static line up th the last one? They might want to find some cover? Thanks"

I have been using the tail gate with a small hole mesh slider for some time with great results 40+ jumps or so. I guess when it stops working great I'll have more data for you

Yes compared to a real job the pays sucks, the hours are long and glory will seldom be yours but, I have managed to rig full time for 12 years before breaking down and getting a real job. During that time, I was even able to buy a house. Also during that time I never really worried much about money either. There was always plenty of work. Does that mean that I am wealthy? Perhaps only in experience. I just didn't (and still don't) require much money to be happy. Have I enjoyed it? Mostly yes. Do I want to be doing it when I'm 60? HELL NO But it was an experience I would never trade even if I could. Because I was a rigger, I was given the opportunity to do many things that most working folk could not even dream of and if I had a real job I never would have experienced them. My advice to any one is if you want it, go after it, but do it because it enriches your soul, not your bank account. O.K. O.K. I'll get off my soap box now Kevin

Real jobs pay better. Yeah but having a boss sucks. Instead you can 225 of them if you work for your self as a rigger. Why have one when you can have so many more?

How much you make will depend on you-to a point. After you invest heavily in tools and training and then bust your ass, you might make 35k if your in a good spot like FL or AZ

I've got some thoughts. Give me a call. Kevin (520)705-9936

Ah yes I didn't concider the use of the hard type of bumper. Good point

Ditto

Oh yeah one other thing. That damage could have been the result of many years not collapsing the slider there by allowing the slider to flap. When that happens, the grommets of the slider could cause this type of damage, but I think that this is a remote possiblity. It would take years for that type of damage to happen (unless the grommets had sharp edges), and usually the line set would have been replaced before then. Also, many other lines would have seen damage as well.

It looks to me as if the silicone bumpers had not been doing their job very well for some time. That damge looks to me as if the slider had been hitting the line right where it sat on the link every time the slide came down. Very common damage indeed. The damage was most likley missed when the swap from silicone to fabric bumpers happened. Or perhaps the damage was already present but not advanced enough to be easily spotted. The damage would then grow as a result of standard use. I would be very surprised if that damage had happened as a result of the fabric bumper. Repairing that damage is not hard and you should expect to pay around $20-$40 to repair it. Kevin

Don't know if hes still doing it but try Hookit on DZ.com

personally, I think this thread has run it's course

As an EMT I went on many domestic diturbance calls where men had brtually beaten their woman. I gotta say, in every case I wised I could be the instrament of carma and give back to the men what they had given