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  1. BASE jumpers will appreciate this short animation: [url "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdUUx5FdySs"]KIWI[/URL] p.s. Tom; just delete this post if you disagree...
  2. I can't comment on the velcro. The only Odyssey I have jumped had terrible worn-out velcro that was due for replacement. Also, the Odyssey has less velcro (area-wise) than, say, my Vision. The real problem with Odyssey is that some older ones don't have stiffened side-flaps. This can allow the side flaps to shrivel with the shrivel flap, creating a shear force again, making it much harder to peel it of. Later Odyssey's have this problem fixed.
  3. Just prime it before you put it on. Then put it on very carefully, listening to make sure you don't hear velcro peel prematurely.
  4. This comment makes me wonder if you think that pin rigs take more force to open than velcro rig. This need not be the case. In fact, it is often the other way around. One jumper had a noticable and scary hesitation on a velcro rig this weekend, because his PC took a while to generate enough force to rip it open.
  5. "Because he's an ABBA fan, son."
  6. And by calling it out on a forum like that, you just joined his alleged ranks... Come on Nick, you're better than that. You edit your post, I'll delete this one. Of course, I'll still love you...
  7. Woah, brilliant. I hadn't thought of that. The thumb loop is actually quite small, but nonetheless a risk. Good thinking!
  8. I sense a hidden mature joke, but I'm struggling... It doesn't matter. I've had it on either side.
  9. That's a no-brainer to me... b) Try to climb above the twists and steer the canopy away first The object is the enemy. Get away from it. Not sure, never really tried it. But I'm in the riser-camp when it comes to offheadings, so a line-twist pointing at the object gets my same reasoning; climbing and yanking will be quicker than trying to release a toggle and using that. Hard to say. Probably curl up in foetus position and cry. But a skilled BASE jumper would probably climb above the line twist and steer away (the twist appears to be quite low in the video, but it's hard to tell). On this note; don't underestimate the use of body-weight in your harnass to fight line-twist and offheadings. It's amazing how much control you have during an entire slider-up opening sequence. Proper shifting of your weight can slow down a developing twist a lot. I have to get a copy of the music of that video for my own BASE videos. That's awesome...
  10. I've tried a static system but I like bungees much better. For the pants it's a no-brainer. Just go from shoe to shoe through your pants. For the jacket, you have a few options. Some people have two bungees from their hips to their hands, one on each side. I personally use a single bungee from thumb to thumb going along my back. I experimented with putting it across my chest too. I don't think it matters too much.... I use a pretty tight setup, but since the bungee can slide up across my back I can still reach the risers. I have a long bungee with three thumbloops. One on each end, and then one a little further in. When gearing up I put the ends of the bungee around my thumbs so I can still reach everything, tie my shoelaces, etcetera. Getting close to jumprun I pull one of the sides further out, put my thumb into the tighter loop (cue Abbie) and stick the end back into my sleeve. Ready to rumble...
  11. You probably already know this, but I'll just add it for the unaware; dynamic corners on a velcro rig are a bad idea. Aside from the fact that wingsuiting with velcro rigs isn't recommended anyway, the bigger problem is that the velcro on the bottom flap isn't enough to keep the container closed. You need the support from the sidewalls through regular corners. I've seen first hand what can happen otherwise (imagine fellow jumper running away from security guard with his modified velcro rig when suddenly his entire canopy dumps out the bottom of his container....)
  12. Ask him to try playing it on his computer using Video Lan. I have yet to meet a video that doesn't play in that thing.
  13. I do think the difference in drag is bigger than that. Realistic drag models that take all aerodynamics into account are pretty much impossible to come up with. Get a car and a scale, and measure it on the highway. An interesting experiment. That said, there's a secondary difference between a 42 and a 36 that is possibly more important. It's less exposed in the BOC. With the 42 (presumably without a handle), you'll need a pud sticking out. To make this sufficiently grabable, you'll want it decently sized. A 36 will most likely have a handle (internal or external). You can keep more fabric inside the BOC and still have it easily grabable. This reduces the changes of a premature during aerials. All imho of course...
  14. Even if the crane has the cabin off to the side, there is still a hatch through the middle. I've only seen this be locked off once (on a repeat visit to the same crane, oddly enough ).
  15. I've done seven different cranes, four from the counterweight boom and three from the tip of the crane. Two had a catwalk till the end, the third didn't. I shimmied across on the outside. I ran into a locked cabin twice, but climbing around it was quite easy both times. It was very much the same as what somebody described in this story... Remember that a biner-backup costs extra time, increasing exposure on the crane. Shimmying across is one of those things that you'd do blindfolded when it's two feet of the ground, but suddenly gets scary when you're at a height. If the crane allows (e.g. it's not a static-line jump); put your rig on as soon as you start to climb around the cabin or start shimmying. If you fall, pitch. You won't have great body position, but who knows what'll happen... I second the comment about the grease. Stay the fuck away from it. Don't touch any cables. It makes things very sticky, and can probably do bad things to a pilotchute when you throw it.