Alexg3265

If youre a stockier build like myself, then yes they work awesome. My wife ordered a new icon and it never fit right... always came off her back. eventually they rebuilt the harness and had to remove the chest rings to be able to shrink it enough, but it still floated. I. 5'11'' and 205lbs, athletic build and it hugs me like a glove. ive had 2 and they both fit really well. you need to try on a couple different ones and if you can make it to deland, try on a couple different rigs and see for yourself. im my opinion, its entirely dependent on your build, and getting the right harness measurments... As said above, vectors are really nice and i almost bought one, but i got my almost new icon (50 jumps) and an op143 with 2 packjobs for the price of a used vector that would have needed a harness resizing so i went with the icon... happened to fit me perfect... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

dont use vinegar or anyting acidic. also be careful with the baking soda... ive seen it bleed colors out. My wife left her freefly pants in a stong baking soda and water solution overnight and it lightened the greys and made the green leech out into the greys where the green pockets were. Vinegar is an acid and will eat nylon or at least degrade it heavily. Taslan, cordura and most other things on suits are nylon.... just saying I dont have any suggestions for chemical smells, but dont use anything acidic on it... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

The openings is the last detail that we were working on... we wanted them beautiful, not just acceptable... Which in my opinion, they are now. Every jump ive done on the newest and final version of the 120, they were all on heading and well staged. Kind of opens like a helix. I know its a teaser video, but every opening we've had so far looks like the video. I'll let you all know when demos are available and you can tell us! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I've flown multiple sizes of katanas and did some of the testing on the tesla. Heres my opinion... The fronts on the tesla are heavier than the katana. (big surprise there) The rears are about the same and similar travel, but more responsive to roll. The recovery arc is in between a katana and a crossfire 2. More of a neutral recovery arc, but it has to be wound up pretty good to get it recover flat on its own. Its more harness sensitive like a crossfire2. Flying side by side in full flight, it has a similar glide path to a katana, but slightly higher forward speed at similar sizes and loadings. In windy and bumpy conditions, its super solid. No breathing, bucking, nothing. As of right now, the sizes are being filled in up and down the range and once testing is done itll be released and demos will be available! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

basically what they said... your kill line is too long. when its full collapsed, you should see only mesh hanging down... if any of the zp/f111 is making pocket, itll catch air and spin... tie a knot as close to the pca as possible and recock it to make sure you didnt go too far, and make sure it collapses completely... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

That might technically be correct, but it not the reason why belly goes out first. Your reasoning doesn't work when a plane is dropping with a tail wind. The longer an object stays in freefall, the more it will drift according to the winds at that altitude. If you would drop a freeflyer and a belly flyer from a helicopter which is flying without moving forward (so there is no hill), they would still open at different locations, simply due to the different amounts of time they are exposed to relative wind. If the plane had a tailwind, itd be flying backwards... so thats not going to happen. slower freefall speeds equals less horizontal travel after leaving the plane, higher freefall speeds body positions mean youll travel horizontally with the plane longer... once free of the intertial momentum, you're all in the same airmass and affected by winds aloft the same... so, sure a really slow belly group could possibly end up on top of a really fast freefly group due to differences in time exposed to upper winds.... but jumprun on high wind days, should be into the winds aloft and the separation to make this happen would have to be way too close anyways. This is assuming the lower group isnt opening and flying up jump run of course. Opening altitudes can be considered but in my opinion, are worthless.. you get distracted and can easily blow through your "opening altitude". Kind of makes me nuts listening to people trying to organize the load by opening altitude... what if you have a cutaway?what if you dump early or a little late?.... horizontal separation is key. When in doubt give it a couple more seconds... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I have some ripstop that works really well on zp.... I have 2 quarter sized patches on a pilot chute that show no peeling after another 200 jumps on it... that pc has long since been replaced, but ive used it on rds burns and similar 2 square or less snags... no idea where i got it from since its 3 years old at this point, but just had a friend buy ripstop tape that doesnt stick for shit... Now the only difference that i noticed, is that the stuff that doesnt stick seems to be a 38 weight sail and the stuff that i have is thinner, consistent with zp. The new stuff sticks like crazy to sail fabric but is shit on zp... first id seen of that, and then saw this, and figured id weigh in... try different brands....? I've still got plenty of it and could mail you a strip of it if you want... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Get a reserve with at least one ride on it! that way you know it works! ahhahahahaha I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

we have no clue what to tell you because we've never seen you fly... ask instructors at your dz... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

you have to really careful when pulling on the fronts with the brakes set. it moves the lift point back and makes the wing less stable.. maybe a slight tap works, but pull on them and almost every wing on the market will frontal, which makes for an exciting ride.... Ive seen someone break lines pulling on the fronts while trying to get the slider down... I find a nice rear riser flare and then surge snaps it down nicely 95% of the time I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

that opening was awesome to watch that slow... and slightly butt puckering watching it.... good old safire snivel I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

this is terminal openings with a 23x31 slider i made for my velo. works great at terminal and subterminal. have someone make you a 23x31 slider. Had another local jumper having slammers on his 79 and i made him a larger slider and its been all good since... The PD rds' are made to speed up subterminal openings so theyre rough at terminal. heres some openings of my ve103 with the 23x31 https://youtu.be/VvlhDyXtHEQ I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

$60, but if you want it tomorrow, its $100 I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

just had someone this past week have a 2 out because of a shrunken kill line and some creep in the line while packing... She has about 800-900 jumps ish and had a pilot chute in tow and went straight to reserve. the main then came out and inflated and was quickly separated and cut away. I happened to be on my way to the dz and saw this unfolding and was able to whip a u turn and pick up the main, and then locate the jumper who landed off. the emergency procedures were discussed and rectified but long story short, her kill line had shrunk and was too small and wasnt allowing the pilot chute to stay cocked. quick easy 15 min fix and good as new... Stay on top of your gear and when you dont know, ask I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

ive made a couple of them... they're pretty much made to order... Never personally seen them for sale anywhere. Sometimes, someone may have one theyll let you use, but most people want something they can keep as a momento... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

back off the tension all the way on both the bobbin and top and increase until you get a good stitch... On my heavy duty machine, if its a hair too tight it will bunch up and catch every 30-90 stitches causing lots of headaches.. took a while to figure it out that it was overly twisting and or untwisting the thread allowing it to twist up and bind or the hook only catch half the thread and leave a nice half thread loop up top or underneath.... sounds similar... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

try the katana at a 170 and itll feel like a downsize from the pilot. then work your way down the sizes... crossfires are ok as well but i prefered the dive of the katana over the crossfire... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

be very careful and you may want to experiment with something more like a speed bar that you can activate and deactivate. Not all but most skydiving canopies, if you give front riser and toggle input, the parachute will frontal and eat itself... would be super awesome while coming into landing and get some turbulence... front risers make paracutes less stable and more susceptible to ustable air. Trimmers in the 80's worked ok, but they were also on huge f111 docile canopies. Paragliders and speed wings use tirmmers that adjust all the line groups individually and proportionally. youll be pulling down your a's and b's while leaving the c's and d's. This severly distorts the shape of the wing and may or may not have nasty habits. ever seen someone with short brake lines pull on their fronts and their canopy bucks and shakes and folds tips under. youre basically doing that as soon as you give any brake input. It moves the center of lift back and once it goes far enough back to unload your front line groups, youre in for a fun ride... If you want to go faster, fucking downsize. or make damn sure to disengage your trimmers before landing. youll need something you can engage after opening as well since youre going to shift the whole way it packs and opens as well. I dont know what you fly now, but demo something smaller or something thats already trimmed faster. that being said, something like a nitro with a continuous non cascaded line set, you could build a quad riser system to trim the individual parts separately but equally. But anything cascaded this is not an option.... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Get in touch with Curt or Jeannie with alter ego and they'll take care of you. Highly recommended!! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

possibilities.....: worn out pilot chute too small pilot chute shrunken kill line, preventing full inflation of the pc pitching into your burble... thats about it... your closing loop, i can almost guarantee, is not the culprit. It needs to be tight... your pc, if in good working condition should pull well over 100lbs of force at 120mph... have a rigger help you... after packing, lay the rig on the ground, belly down, and pull on your bridle straight up until the pin releases. if your rig never comes off the floor all the way, then its not the issue. once that pops, see how much force it takes to extract the dbag from the container... shouldnt take much. the bag should be snug in there but not stuck.... if all this looks in order, then its 99% your pc assembly. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

depends on where... and how legal you want to be... Also depends on how quickly the plane can get you there... faster planes can get to altitude quicker and leave you exposed to the oxygen lacking thin air for less time I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

good patches take skill no matter what machine. its the operator, not the equipment. a nice machine just makes the process smoother.... Yeah, I get that. I do a perfectly acceptable patch with my wife's old plastic Singer, but it's like that saying, "dress for the job you want to have" I got a few yards of ZP and a few yards of LoPo just for practicing with, but I'm a perfectionist and want to bust out patches that Raggs Ragahanti would try to steal credit for. (Raggs taught me how to patch actually) I thought if I got a "pro" machine, like a 20U with a servo motor, I would have an easier learning curve to sew like a pro. Now I'm just experimenting with different machines/different styles, and seeing what I like (or what likes me) I'm a new kid on the block so I have to establish my reputation, and anything less Gan perfection is not acceptable for me, ya know? Yep, i definitely hear you... A proper machine makes it more efficient for sure... once you get really good at working with the home one, itll be a walk in the park on an industrial machine that actually feeds that slick shit properly... haha I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

good patches take skill no matter what machine. its the operator, not the equipment. a nice machine just makes the process smoother.... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Let me be more clear. My wife still has a mirage container and they are one of the nicest and cleanest looking rigs out there. They have an awesome product, and every manufacturer has had issues with something at one point. However, their customer service still sucks ass. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

i get those all the time.... i also have a full loft at home and i hang it up, overnight if need be... if its bad, ill turn off the dehumidfier, leave the door open and let the humidity creep up and it smooths out oh so nicely with some smoothing and shaking... I live in florida with plenty of humidity to spare.... So anywhere else, buy a humidifier and crank that bitch up and let the canopy hang for a while then hand smooth it.... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...