Alexg3265

If the rds is slightly larger than the stock slider then thats actually what you want. To maintain the same openings, the rds has to be slightly larger.... or domed. Think about the rings vs the grommets and where they sit on the slider. Every rds ive ever seen or built, allows more air past the slider and onto the bottom skin of the canopy which at the same size as stock will have the same drag, but the canopy now has a little more pressure on it making it open faster or hard. At least start a little bigger. Openings start getting funky when the slider is considerable wider than the span between the center cell inner A lines. Also true when its considerably larger than the b-c stabilizer gap. Try it right out the door on a hop and pop, if alls well, then delay a couple seconds. Then try it terminal... Whats really funny is go look at pd's canopy line trim charts. They have the slider dimensions on there. They use the same 2 sizes on every model and size they make. the exception being the katana 135,150,and 170, which use a domed, vented slider. So if 2 sizes of slider work on all pd canopies, then what does that tell you? it can be interpreted a lot of ways i know but what i tells me is that they design their canopies to work with already standard sizes to simplify production and that all the canopies require similar drag forces on the sliders..... take from all this gibberish what you want but i was bored so theres my 2 cents. be safe I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

ive got a couple aerodyne mini rings laying around so that will give a little extra mechanical advantage. I already tried to talk her out of neon green, but im married... so hence im trying to find a reason not to... ill definitely build a 3 ring out of it and break it to see what fails... I told her dark colors just for dirt, but ill have to throw in the skinny part! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

so typically, mini risers are made with 2500lb type 17 webbing. I've made my fair share of risers, and my wife wants neon green risers. so long story short, i dont want to buy a huge roll of specially made neon green type 17, but i found climbing webbing thats 1" and 4200lb, slightly thicker and was wondering if anyone can think of any reason not to build risers with it... I know the 3 ring will fail and warp at around 3000-3500 lbs typically, and the risers should fail at or before the 3rings ( pretty much when your arms are being ripped off and shit is going to hell quick).... but i cant think of any other reason why not. Stretch, but it doesnt seem to stretch. I have the same webbing in black and have done some pull tests and it seems to be very dimensionally stable. GO! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

At the moment, there are more old canopies than people willing to jump them. How does a Double Keeled Paradactyl or Volplane sound? Remember the old adage that got us through these "transitional" canopies in the first place:"If you're going to be stupid, you gotta be tough." You'll have to sign the waiver TWICE to jump these babies! Sounds bad ass! Where do I sign? Show me how to pack it and I'm in. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I want in! Anyone got an old canopy they'll lend/rent me?! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Contact infinity and take better pictures.... If that's as tight as you can get the chest strap, then the mlw is too short... I'm not there so I can't say for sure, but if you don't feel comfortable in it then something needs adjusting... My wife ordered a rig custom that was sized wrong, too big, and the chest articulation actually had to be removed, but they took care of it no prob. Not to cut out and discredit your dealer, but if they won't do anything contact the manufacturer directly. Good luck.. If it's ok ish... Then make a jump and see.... But who knows... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I spent my 13k on an industrial machine, a new canopy, my wife's new container, lots of jumps, some moving expenses, lots of beer, an hour in the tunnel with the wife and kid, more beer... Do whatever makes you happy. It'll go quicker than you think no matter what so have fun. Good luck! I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Ok my post may have been a little harsh... Sorry about that... Long day. This is what I looked at and wondered... And I understand it's more than strong enough, call me superficial, but the rest of the container is just so sexy inside and out... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

You can change the gauge of the machine, but it's a lot of work. You have to change the needle clamp, the needle plate, the feed dogs and you have to adjust the position of both hooks and retime them. So you can buy a machine with a common 1/4 gauge and change it to what you want, (up to 1" usually), but you would only want to do it once. So i like a challenge.... I bought a 3/8" guage lt2-875 brother split bar machine.(not an automatic) It needed some tlc but looked sound and ran ok, but very stiff. Got it for a good price and bought the 1/4" conversion. This thing is a tank! I was able to convert it, to 1/4'' but i see what you're saying... it was a pain in the ass. No issues or hang ups, just time consuming. Getting it all timed right was kind of a bitch but it was all very straight forward. But you're right... i dont want to do it again.... hahaha thanks for all the advice and help. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

My wife just bought a used G4 and I was convinced that someone had altered the length of thee mlw after the fact. It's sure ghetto rigged looking. For a min I was actually telling her, I'm not assembling or packing this till mirage checks it out..... I live in Deland so it's a 5 min drive :) Then I looked at other mirages, and just thought, who's fucking terrible design was this?! Making the mlw able to be shorter is a plus I guess, but fuck, the whole rest of the container is pretty and clean looking, then you have this fucked looking fold and tape wrapped around it. There's got to be a better way.... Edit to add: couldn't they just take a wider tape and cover that damn hot knifed, raw edge, hanging out, looking like shit? I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

It is a a different material. It almost feels like silk huh? I love packing optimums. From what I was told it's made using finer yarns and with fancy improvements in manufacturing textiles, they get it to do what they want and take up less space in the end! Yay technology! They claim to behave the same ish as f-111... I don't know personally but I've heard people saying the optimum lands better than a PDr... I'd say that's more canopy design than fabric, but hey they seem to work. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

And that just serves as a testament to modern canopy design.... Or back in the day... It's fascinating that you have to work so hard to get a mal, but yet people freak the fuck out and repack shit if it isn't just so.... I'll pull out the small test canopies and see if I can do a few drops with them... It'll be on my list... I just moved to Deland and still getting my loft set up and catching up on a few projects.... The slider being on the stops plays a bigger part than packing in my opinion. Here's why... Take your canopy and while packing have 2 people take right and left sides and stretch your slider out till it's flat across the top of your hanging canopy. Now go try and wrap some lines around while its dangling there,,, they fall right off and fall to their respective places.. So if it snivels at all then the slider will "organize" your lines for you and keep shit straight. So normally the tail spreads first but when the slider doesn't do its job, the front corners catch air and unfurl in a hurry, skipping pressurization, and putting you dizzy under a floppy rectangle that sort of resembles a canopy until it gets some pressure and starts flying...so couple that will a brake or d line in front with a slider not on the stops and the nose can inflate into the gap in the line, inverting the control lines and viola its a line over. its a stretch, but sloppy slider control and sloppy line organization kinda go hand in hand,,,, so yeah I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

IIRC, the slider on the Katana is built in part with mesh. If you put an RDS from another manufacturer on the canopy that does not have the same size mesh area, you will affect the opening characteristics of the canopy. Please contact PD directly if you intend to do this and get their input before doing so. [email protected] I have a 150 that I use a flat all sail rds slider on... It opens better imo. The 135,150, and 170 use domed mesh sliders standard. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Ok maybe I'm missing something, but that doesn't decrease anything... All you did was make another ring for your brake lines to go through...more wear... unless your brake line doesn't pull through the normal ring. I can't tell from the picture. Now if you just push the cats eye through when you pack, and then the line releases when you release your brakes, that could be of use... care to elaborate....? I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Line overs come from letting the lines creep out while your randomly shoving shit under the canopy while laying on it... Personally, I psychopack. It's easier to keep the roll together than a stack of folds. However my second psychopack job was on a sabre1 which bang! Came out with a line over. Jump 50 or so...It was a brake line. And it was a hop and pop. I reached for my handles and then realized I was still at 4000'. I remembered a series called cutaway that drill "perform two full flares". I figured fuck it and released the brakes and before I could even flare, it cleared. I remember staring up at it confused for the next few moments and then a very serious controllability check. A friend was flying around me yelling at me to chop that shit... Oh well. Made a good video at the time. I flake with the slider out of the way and I slightly roll in the tail, tucking the inner edges in and when its laid out on the ground I get behind it and pull tension on all the topskin folds and make sure they're tight and in line. What I was told when I was training to be a rigger was, "fabric out, lines in, lines tight, slider at the stops and quartered, the rest is voodoo" I'm kind of of the opinion that having a slider not on the stops can make a line over more likely... More slack in the lines above the slider when shit gets chaotic. Along with a hard opening. If you watch a canopy open, the rear corners inflate first and try to spread out. You get two cups of fabric that tend to want to fan out.... Then the rest of your bottom skin inflates exposing the center nose cell. As your canopy gets bigger during snivel, you slow down which decreases pressure on your slider and with the canopy slowly pressurizing will reach the tipping point and down comes the slider. Now if you imagine a d line is just down the side of a canopy.... Now if the tail inflates, it effectively locks out that line and the canopy will inflate the rest of the way in it. Line burns ect. I'm bored and I may have sniffed too much glue today, but that's my 2 cents. And I can replicate it on a small scale with scale canopies. A highly tapered nose makes this much more difficult to replicate.... Just saying... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Make your canopy slightly wider than the bag or than you have been doing it. Then shorten your closing loop. See the bottom looking like it's trying to fall out from the side flaps? Push that in/up. If your loop comes from the reserve bottom area, then by shortening it, it will pull that bottom flap up tighter, filling the corners and allowing the side flaps to close over the bottom flap properly. Then take 20 seconds and shape it when you're done.push on the bottom flap and pull the side flaps over and make it look nice nice Again without looking at it its really hard to say, but it may just even be practice.... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

You can.... Just you can't pay someone else to do it for you. You personally can jump with a garbage bag or bedsheet for a main, if you install it and jump it yourself. That's the catch. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

The applicable law is where you reside. Period. Especially if you operate a business there, let alone a permanent skydiving operation. 120 days. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I had a hornet 150 that opened like shit. Learn to psycho pack. And roll the nose in once you flip it and put it on the ground. Seriously. I'd grab the outer 4 nose cells from each side and roll them in tight towards the center. (4-5 hand rolls) you can even put the rolls into the center cell then gently push it under the front edge of the slider. That's the best I can describe it. It needs to be a neat pack job. I had a packer pack that canopy for me and I came down with a busted lip and bruises galore from that one. And/or have a rigger install a pocket on the slider. should be fairly cheap. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I was also pulling at 4500-5000' and alarms set at 5.5, 4, 3 and 2. Some of the snivels were 1500'+... I wanted some wiggle room. You never heard the final alarm in any of those. Only time I've heard it is when I got my helmet knocked off and watched the video of it spinning into the ground. The final alarm doesn't stop till you do. At least it wailed all the way to the last frame. I do like and agree with the point of becoming desensitized to it and can see that happening. I don't know. I don't wait and listen for them but they have gotten my attention when break off comes just a little too soon... I guess I use it to mark, break off, pull, should be open-ish by, and fucking get rid of it. I have a Quattro so 4 alarms... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

http://youtu.be/vFzUCBVRdIQ This is a few test jumps on different sized sliders I made. All of these are at terminal. This was From last year, and I've got now maybe 300 jumps on sliders I've made from scratch and almost all of my openings are at terminal. This is a safire 2 159 @1.4-1.5 loading. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

I have a video of myself at a 1.5 loading on a nitro 150 being left in the dust by my wife on her sabre 2 120 @ a 1:1.1 loading. The performance of a canopy is not linear with size. Graphically it's an exponential curve that represents loading to performance in respect to size. There is simply less air acting on a smaller canopy regardless of loading. Less drag, less lift, so the equilibrium settles out at a faster speed to keep the canopy's natural flight path consistent. There is simply less fabric, lines and weight there, so it will respond faster and feel twitchier than the same model at the same loading at a bigger size. So say you went from a Canopy x 290 to a 210. You'll notice that change about as much as going from a 135 to a 120. Take a 15 square foot canopy and load it with 15 lbs and tell me how it flies. It's going to haul ass and be extremely sensitive. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

Does "off landings" mean in the ocean? Is there an ocean on the DZ? Yep. Last year we were jumping over the water because the wind was so strong... There's an inlet and then a strip of land, but honestly I don't see how anyone could have landed in the water unless it was a beach jump... I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...

https://atlaslevy.3dcartstores.com/Automatic-Double-Needle-Sewing-Machine-Brother-LT2-B875-907-Tag-4182_p_4230.html Something like this....? I was looking at this.... And I'm waiting on some quotes... I've been scouring eBay and Craigslist and online retailers..... I've also decided needle feed is fine and a walking foot is unnecessary. Which then I can find an automatic one.... Hehehe fuck trimming threads. Ok so 1/4" for almost all except the bottom loaded ribs, which are 3/8... Maybe a dumb question but are there any that you could swap out the foot to switch between 1/4 and 3/8? After talking to a few reps I'm leaning toward used... I just really don't want to get something and then be stuck fixing it up after a few weeks. I was that kid jumping out if his tree house with a bed sheet. My dad wouldn't let me use the ladder to try the roof...