So what setting do you shoot your stills at ?

[billvon 2,400]

Varies, but my usual sunny-day setting is Tv 1/500 with ISO200. Canon XTi with either the stock lens (usual) or the 10-22 (special occasions.)

[sky-pimp 0]

thanks everyone this is all good stuff.

where would this come into it ?
i read on here about the use of a 28 or 24mm prime lens for the job. So i checked out a 28mm on an eos450d . It seems you have to give distance between yourself and the subject if your looking for full length shots.
It also seems that a lot use the stock 18-55 lens.
so would it not be better to use a prime to eliminate any accidental movement in the focal length on the 18-55 by simply using a prime ?

YeHaaaaaaaaaaa

[lilchief 0]

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It also seems that a lot use the stock 18-55 lens.
so would it not be better to use a prime to eliminate any accidental movement in the focal length on the 18-55 by simply using a prime ?

YES!
With a prime, you'll get better optical performance, most likely larger min apperature(smaller f number), reduced price and best of all, one less ring/rotating dingy to worry about =)

"Once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned skyward, for there you have been and there you long to return." - Da Vinci
www.lilchief.no

[PhreeZone 15]

Most people using Primes on digital SLR bodies are using 15 mm lenses. The 24/28mm used to be popular in film days but due to crop sensors in the digital bodies that is a multiplier effect so a 15mm lens at a 1.6 crop gives you a 24mm lens roughly.

Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

[kai3fly 0]

My settings are with the view finder uncovered.

With Canon Rebel Series (not sure about D) the exposure is affected by the metering of light, depending if the the view finder is covered or not.

Two Examples.

I dont have my viewfinder covered and shoot AV F10, ISO400 exp-2/3 partial metering. I get a TV range of 400,800,1000 =great pics

My friend jumps a camera neoprene condom that covers everything. she was getting shitty blurred photos with low shutter speeds shooting on the same settings.

Also when i exit the skyvan, my first exit shot was gettin low balled shutter speed, i put it down to it being dark and white/metal walls, but in fact it was because i was standing sideways with my head against the wall.

So put your camera on a tripod on a sunny day, take some pictures on the ground at different headings with your thumb covering the view finder and not covering.

Some people say its a myth, but its not with canon.

Kai

[pilotdave 0]

Do you use manual focus? If not, why av mode? The problem is unpredictable shutter speed. If you just set your camera to your desired shutter speed, the worst thing that can happen (in decent light) is you get a wider aperture. I assume if you use f/10 you are on manual focus, trying to maximize depth of field for acceptable focus. But if that means occasional blurry shots due to low shutter speeds, you might be better off with AF.

You ideally want the viewfinder blocked. It is normally blocked by the photographers face. Canon provides a viewfinder blocker on every shoulder strap for these situations. Light entering can throw off the metering. I have ruined many shots of ny own shadow...sun directly behind can cause severe underexposure.

And I love zoom. I change zoom in freefall and under canopy all the time.

Dave

[BMFin 0]

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Do you use manual focus? If not, why av mode? The problem is unpredictable shutter speed. If you just set your camera to your desired shutter speed, the worst thing that can happen (in decent light) is you get a wider aperture.

I prefer AV over TV because, this way I can assure Im using the aperture I want. Normally I prefer f/5.6 or f/8 on my lens because at this aperture the lens is at its sharpest.When using a flash I set everything manually.

The shutter speed wont be unpredictable if you learn to use the exposure meter in the view finder. Learning to use the exposure meter in the viewfinder is one of the things everyone should learn to understand correct exposure. In addition with digital photography, the possibility of utilizing the histogram is a big advantage. With tools like this exposure should be far from unpredictable.

To the OP: Go to the library and look for a beginners guide to photography. Learning the very basics helps to understand why there isnt just one answer to your question. Theres also a lot of good info online. Good luck !

[chuckakers 370]

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So what setting do you shoot your stills at ?
just post your cam, len's and what you like to set on your camera and if you know why just jot a little down.

e.g.
canon eos350d 28mm canon f2.8 prime lens no flash
manual f22 speed180 iso100

I see a lot of opinions on this subject, but I haven't seen any replies that explain the concept of the hyperfocal point or how to calculate it.

Try this: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/hyperfocal-distance.htm

Chuck Akers
D-10855
Houston, TX

[PhreeZone 15]

That is only if you are using manual focus. A lot of us are using the Autofocus since it works so well on the faster lenses.

Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

[pilotdave 0]

I have trouble checking my histogram in freefall.
Light can change drastically throughout a skydive. From inside the plane, nice light bouncing off clouds below on exit, then dim light under the clouds at the bottom end. Av mode on f/10 is going to get very very low shutter speeds in the shadows. I'd prefer my lens to go to f/3.5 or whatever it maxes out at instead of going to 1/40th. Now the downside to Tv mode is that when you reach the lens's max aperture, the next step is to underexpose. Av mode will never underexpose a picture (when the metering works correctly)... it'll eventually just give such a low shutter speed that everything blurs. I use auto-ISO on my camera to avoid the underexposure. It tries to use ISO 100 until it runs out of aperture, then it starts bumping up the ISO.

Dave

[BMFin 0]

I dont check histogram in freefall either. You can always shoot test shots from the window of the plane, this way the exposures shouldnt be unpredictable. There is good time to study the histogram.

Basically I could do this on the plane even below a cloud ceiling, if there was one. However, I normally dont consider anything worth shooting in such a poor light anyway. If I must shoot something special in a poor light I would lit it with flash and set it manually.

If there is good light above the clouds I would just shoot then and stop shooting when the light is no longer availeable.

There are many ways to do this ofcourse, but normally the light conditions remain pretty consistant through out the skydive. Therefore I think rather make sure I get the sharp aperture if I know the shutterspeed will be sufficiently faster than 1/500. To me it is less relevant if it is 1/400 or 1/1000. In terms of sharpness however, it makes a difference weather it is f/5.6 or f/11

I shoot quite a lot at 1/200 by the way. It doesnt necessarily yield a lot of motion blur. And if it does, it doesnt necessarily ruin the pic.
For example this was manually set to 1/250. I consider it pretty sharp.

[jumpwally 0]

It gives it a tiny sense of motion,,,perfect colors,,,i likey..i'd buy it...

smile, be nice, enjoy life
FB # - 1083

[ASTKU 1]

What gear are you using when you drive a car?

Hey buddy. What if I drive an automatic!!!

[Laszloimage 0]

If you drive autamatic you still going to have at least 4 options. Drive, 1, 2, and Reverse

[ASTKU 1]

ok. so we are both smart ass's!

What do you suggest for a new still camera guy that doesn't know what the aperture/f stop/iso settings do??

I got a Rebel T1i and was planning to start by just shooting in Sports mode at first until I can learn more about the camera. Is this what you would suggest?? I appreciate all the help!

[Icon134 0]

Quote

ok. so we are both smart ass's!

What do you suggest for a new still camera guy that doesn't know what the aperture/f stop/iso settings do??

I got a Rebel T1i and was planning to start by just shooting in Sports mode at first until I can learn more about the camera. Is this what you would suggest?? I appreciate all the help!

Yes, or better yet... take a photography class... or read a book... or search for online photography tutorials...

but most importantly learn...

btw: aperture and F stop are basically a different way of saying the same thing...

Livin' on the Edge... sleeping with my rigger's wife...

[Bill_K 0]

Quote

ok. so we are both smart ass's!

What do you suggest for a new still camera guy that doesn't know what the aperture/f stop/iso settings do??

I got a Rebel T1i and was planning to start by just shooting in Sports mode at first until I can learn more about the camera. Is this what you would suggest?? I appreciate all the help!

Take this guys class, it's $15 for 5 PDF's and will teach you a TON about your camera and how to use it.

Digital-SLR-Guide

[ASTKU 1]

Thanks. Yea I got a couple books already.

[dragon2 0]

Quote

ok. so we are both smart ass's!

What do you suggest for a new still camera guy that doesn't know what the aperture/f stop/iso settings do??

I got a Rebel T1i and was planning to start by just shooting in Sports mode at first until I can learn more about the camera. Is this what you would suggest?? !

No, I'd strongly suggest reading a photography book FIRST (or take a class) and to forget sports mode altogether. Especially if you're shooting for money (tandems, students) you should know what you're doing and know when to change settings to accomodate different situations.

Sports mode for skydiving is very dicey, and you also will not learn anything from any of the "fun" settings (the ones with the pictures...), rather turn the dial the other way, at least read your manual and have at it.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[BMFin 0]

Quote

ok. so we are both smart ass's!

What do you suggest for a new still camera guy that doesn't know what the aperture/f stop/iso settings do??

Just get a compact camera. Modern compact cameras offer good performance in a small package.

In a nutshell if you shoot a decent compact side by side with a DSLR on full auto settings, there wont be much difference. You are just carrying a lot of weight you dont need.

The advantage of having a DSLR is the potential of using manual settings, changing optics, using outside flashes etc.. These possibilities are accessible only after you know what F-stop mean. (plus much more)

[ASTKU 1]

Quote

Sports mode for skydiving is very dicey, and you also will not learn anything from any of the "fun" settings (the ones with the pictures...), rather turn the dial the other way, at least read your manual and have at it.

Can you elaborate on why it is "dicey"

My buddy has jumped a couple times with his T1i and all the pictures look great (in sports mode).
Are you saying there would be a major difference if he manually set the camera differently??

[ASTKU 1]

Quote

In a nutshell if you shoot a decent compact side by side with a DSLR on full auto settings, there wont be much difference. You are just carrying a lot of weight you dont need.

But in 40 seconds certainly a DSLR would take a crap load more pictures than the modern compact you are referring too.

[pilotdave 0]

I recommend sports mode for learning (or forever, as many people choose). It simply works great. I personally use Tv mode. I did a tandem video this past weekend (I don't do them very often) and used 1 stop of exposure compensation because of the white clouds that would be in the background and a high overcast. I looked at my pics when I got down and was happy with them and satisfied that I picked good settings for that jump. Then looked at another video guy's pictures coming off the printer from the same load, using sports mode. Difficult lighting, but they came out just as good as mine if not better. And I've got a better camera and better lens.

I know another videographer that chooses to use "P" mode, which is fully automatic but lets you make some adjustments like exposure compensation (which he doesn't use) and doesn't use automatic flash. I've told him many times that it's probably a bad idea to use a mode that could lower the shutter speed down to nothing if it wants to. But he's been happy with his results with that mode for years.

In the end, there are a ton of different ways to set a camera or skydiving and they'll all work pretty well most of the time. With a modern camera, you can get great results in almost any conditions without knowing anything about how a camera works. Not that I recommend it. Instead, I recommend starting in sports mode and learning how to look at exif data. Learn what works and what doesn't. When you figure out what setting you might want to adjust, change modes and adjust it.

Dave

[ASTKU 1]

Thanks Dave!

[theonlyski 3]

Here are some more definitions and a couple videos. They dont have the T1i listed, but you would probably get some good info out of watching the XSi videos.

http://www.lbguides.com/glossary/index.html

"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
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