0
Gawain

Some Personal Observations to Help Save a Little Fuel

Recommended Posts

I have a few basic items that nay help, a little. Not enough to make you say, "Who cares about the cost of gas" but enough to get an extra 25-50 miles or more out of a tank of gas. This is lengthy, so bear with me:

1. Maintenance
a. Air pressure in the tires: keep the air pressure in your tires per the spec sticker on the drivers side door within 1-3 psi.

b. Air filter: check, clean, or replace the air filter. If you don't have a K&N, then consider one or just clean/replace your factory one at worst every 30K miles +/-.

c. Oil: change it at a minimum to your manufacturers recommendation. You don't have to deviate from the type or SAE ratings.

d. Fuel: if you car doesn't recommend premium, don't throw your money away. Very few cars require premium (mostly high-performance/compression or turbo charged motors). There is no mileage benefit if the engine is properly maintained.

2. Driving
a. Don't use cruise control: I know this seems contradictory, but I have never achieved higher MPG on the highway using cruise control versus a steady foot on the gas pedal. Whether in my wife's 2001 Camry (avg 33mpg hwy) or my RAV4 V6 (avg 26mpg hwy). I believe this is because the cruise control units are not intelligent enough to know uphill/downhill scenarios...they just know speed, not engine throttle.

b. If you have an automatic transmission keep a steady foot on the gas pedal: If I weren't missing body parts, I'd be in a manual tranny for sure, but the sad fact is that most of us are lazy...so we put in "D" and "GO". Problem is, too many people apply too much throttle then let up to maintain speed, even around town. Change your driving habit with your right foot to keep it steady on the throttle, and don't keep going "up-and-down" on the pedal.

c. If you have a manual transmission, don't always short-shift: over stressing the engine in high-gear around down only shoves more fuel through the system and risks knocking, wasting fuel through inefficient combustion. Lighter throttle, with a normal shift pattern means less stress on the engine, less increase in fuel flow as revs rise.

d. Evaluate speed and traffic: My commute is along country roads...easy to drive 70+mph on any given day. However, I always give myself enough time, and in a 55mph zone, I'll keep a steady 55-60. There is no time benefit unless you kick up at least 20mph or more. Also, safe following distances, and groups of cars traveling together will gain a little better mileage on the highway.

Your mileage will vary and it's not an "end-all-be-all"...but it's what I've seen from my direct experience.
So I try and I scream and I beg and I sigh
Just to prove I'm alive, and it's alright
'Cause tonight there's a way I'll make light of my treacherous life
Make light!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good points! I see too many people on the highway tailgating the person in front of them. So they alternate gas/brake over & over again in order to hang onto the next car's bumper.:S

Speed Racer
--------------------------------------------------

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The biggest improvement I've seen was when I started making a conscious effort to be VERY gentle with the throttle. It was during a gas delivery strike in the UK, and by doing that, if memory serves me right, I probably had a 30% increase in mpg (I normally a much more aggressive driver)
Remster

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
A good one I've been using for at least a year or more is putting my car in neutral when I can, as I have a manual.

What I mean is I coast when the terrain allows. There are places in routes to and from work that allow me to coast for a mile. It may not be that big of a deal, but every little bit helps.
Skymama's #2 stalker -

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You have some good points but i would disagree with you on the issue of cruise control. I just got a new car it it will give you average MPG or you can view the instant MPG. When I am using the cruise and viewing the instant MPG, once i start going down a hill you can see the MPG shoot up signifigantly. Obviously when you start going up a hill the MPG goes down.
The other reason for using cruise in certain newer cars is because of the engine control something. I don't know the name of it but my car will switch from 6 cylinder to 3 cylinder during cruise speeds. If i am not using the cruise it keeps bouncing back and forth between a 6 and a 3. But when I am in cruise control it will be stay in 3 cylinder mode until you hit a large hill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

Hey, thanks for the tips! I heard somewhere that if you crack your windows about an inch you can get better mileage. Has anyone else heard anything to that affect? Do you know if that is true?

I doubt it, but I have no evidence. My argument, though, is that any open window disrupts airflow over your vehicle, adding drag, therefore reducing mileage. Sounds about as likely as putting a magnet next to your fuel line to "align the gas molecules" for better mileage.

I shut off my engine at long lights and train crossings. BTW, it doesn't take a minute's worth of fuel to start a modern, fuel injected engine. That's another fallacy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

Hey, thanks for the tips! I heard somewhere that if you crack your windows about an inch you can get better mileage. Has anyone else heard anything to that affect? Do you know if that is true?



By my logic, I think that would probably reduce your mileage if anything. By cracking your windows, you alter the intended aerodynamics of the vehicle and add drag.
Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, the lesson afterward.

Accidents don't just happen. They must be carelessly planned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

c. Oil: change it at a minimum to your manufacturers recommendation. You don't have to deviate from the type or SAE ratings.



And Find out what your ACTUAL Auto Manufacturers recommendation is. The 3000 mile thing is created by people the sell oil changes and is a complete waste for most vehicles.

Most newer vehicles recommend 5000 to 7500 miles between oil changes. (Every 7500 miles for both my Honda Accord and Dodge Ram 1500 according to the owners Manaual) Read your owners manual and go by those recommendation, not what the oil change guys are telling you. Of course they want you to think you need to change your oil twice as often as you really need to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

Quote

c. Oil: change it at a minimum to your manufacturers recommendation. You don't have to deviate from the type or SAE ratings.



And Find out what your ACTUAL Auto Manufacturers recommendation is. The 3000 mile thing is created by people the sell oil changes and is a complete waste for most vehicles.

Most newer vehicles recommend 5000 to 7500 miles between oil changes. (Every 7500 miles for both my Honda Accord and Dodge Ram 1500 according to the owners Manaual) Read your owners manual and go by those recommendation, not what the oil change guys are telling you. Of course they want you to think you need to change your oil twice as often as you really need to.


I wanted to say the same thing, but it does no harm to change the oil every 3000 miles. Just costs money. So, if people are into that, who am I to pee in their Cheerios... ;)
So I try and I scream and I beg and I sigh
Just to prove I'm alive, and it's alright
'Cause tonight there's a way I'll make light of my treacherous life
Make light!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote


I wanted to say the same thing, but it does no harm to change the oil every 3000 miles. Just costs money. So, if people are into that, who am I to pee in their Cheerios... ;)



Long as people know that it isnt really needed, If they want to waste their money.. Hey.. It IS their money. More power to them.

Sadly most people have been led to believe that 3 Month or 3000 miles is what they are supposed to be doing. That is generally not true.

RTFM People. RTFM.:P:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
40-50 years ago, 3000 mile oil changes were necessary for a number of reasons, the least of which are; oils didn't contain the detergents they do today, & engines were not near as efficient, or machined/assembled as well (as tight) as they are today.

If you're feeling adventurous, over-inflate your tires (never exceed the pressure printed on the tire!) to reduce rolling resistance. Beware!!! If your tires are more than half worn it could get quite "interesting" in the rain!

I ran my truck (04 Colorado) 2600 miles last year on vacation. Factory says it should get 14-23MPG (3.5l, auto trans, 4WD, extended cab, 3.73:1 gears). By over-inflating the tires 5psi, keeping the windows closed (one was CRACKED open maybe 1/2"), using the A/C about half the time, using the cruise control when practical (not in heavy traffic or in the mountains), & (MOST IMPORTANTLY!) keeping a light right foot, I averaged 25.8MPG for the trip! Trouble is, I can't say how much of this is due to the gentle driving habits & how much is due to porting the factory air box & playing with the timing in the computer. All I know is in my usual short-trip driving (2-4 miles round trip) I average around 17-19MPG.
When the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
While I agree with less weight improving mileage, 1 mpg/100 lbs isn't true. For one thing my work van would be rated in gal/mile.
You think having an extra person in your vehicle will reduce your mileage by 1.5 or more MPG?
Anyway effects from one vehicle to another will vary widely, not to mention variation in the same model due to differences in maintenance.

Learn to be happy. You can't be there for anybody else in life if you can't learn to be there for yourself.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

While I agree with less weight improving mileage, 1 mpg/100 lbs isn't true. For one thing my work van would be rated in gal/mile.
You think having an extra person in your vehicle will reduce your mileage by 1.5 or more MPG?
Anyway effects from one vehicle to another will vary widely, not to mention variation in the same model due to differences in maintenance.



I stand corrected, that should have been 1-2% not mpg... my bad
The only naturals in this sport shit thru feathers...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

My argument, though, is that any open window disrupts airflow over your vehicle, adding drag, therefore reducing mileage.



Well, if if you have the fan on high perhaps it will increase mileage by reducing drag...kind of like a "blown wing" concept.


SmugMug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

Well, if if you have the fan on high perhaps it will increase mileage by reducing drag...kind of like a "blown wing" concept.

Hmmm.:D:D:D

Umm, I think that's highly unlikely, but interesting stretch of hypothesis. How about vortex generators all over the roof to keep your flow attached?:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

Quote

Well, if if you have the fan on high perhaps it will increase mileage by reducing drag...kind of like a "blown wing" concept.

Hmmm.:D:D:D

Umm, I think that's highly unlikely, but interesting stretch of hypothesis. How about vortex generators all over the roof to keep your flow attached?:D


And a fresh wax job to cut down that parasitic drag.:P
"There are only three things of value: younger women, faster airplanes, and bigger crocodiles" - Arthur Jones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

A good one I've been using for at least a year or more is putting my car in neutral when I can, as I have a manual.

What I mean is I coast when the terrain allows. There are places in routes to and from work that allow me to coast for a mile. It may not be that big of a deal, but every little bit helps.



That may work where you dont need to reduce speed, but when slowing down in a manual it is ALWAYS best to have the car in gear. This is beacuse when the throttle is not applied when the car is in gear, NO fuel is used. Hwoever, if you stick it in neutral whilse slowing down then the engine will use fuel on tick over, which can add up to quite alot.


BP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

0