IJskonijn

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Everything posted by IJskonijn

  1. Terrible openings and constant line twists are not necessarily a result of the canopy type. They may also occur when the canopy hits a certain age, and especially when the lines hit a certain age. Most line types (especially microline, which is commonly found on a Sabre2) will exhibit some sort of shrink. This affects the line trim, which in turn affects (usually negatively) the openings of a canopy. With smallish canopies (~135 and below) those effects can easily happen after only ~300 jumps on the lineset. Microline will typically still look perfectly fine at that age, so just looking at the wear & tear on the lines isn't enough to determine if the lines are still good.
  2. When I bought a secondhand camera helmet, it had a poor man's sight on it. A round piece of coloured plastic with a hole in the middle, on a peg bolted on the helmet. No articulation or other fancy stuff, something like this: http://www.chutingstar.com/camera/skydive-video-gear/ringsights/tinted-eyesight-assembly At least a lot cheaper than all the newton ring or otherwise fancy optics, and it worked perfectly fine for me.
  3. Or even better if they've forgotten that we want to get out 3 km prior due to doing CRW with hardly any uppers. Jackpot is if they climb out right after us. Have fun hiking back! ^_^
  4. About as well as I can (or want to) hear "Door!" while on jumprun.
  5. That's why I like my €0,15/pair high-end foam earplugs (3M earsoft FX or Moldex Spark Plugs). Plenty good enough protection, and zero worries if I lose one. Sure, there's no super-fancy frequency-dependent attenuation to hear speech more easily, but we aren't holding deep philosophical discussions anyway while skydiving.
  6. Agreed, metal hardening is a fairly involved process that requires the full skill, test facilities and QA capabilities of a manufacturer. But TiN treatment is not new, and there are plenty of companies that are skilled enough to do it. It might cost a bit more, but I see no major technical reason why a rig manufacturer cannot buy a batch of TiN hardened reserve pins (likely a pin is defined as a part number with associated drawing and material specifications) and test those for use in their reserve ripcords. As for the grommet, unless I understand the mechanism wrong, a scratched grommet won't cause as much pull force increase as a scratched pin. The scratches in a pin hook into the loop material, meaning you have to physically either pull them out or pull apart the hooked fibres of the loop material. Scratches in the grommet are also obviously not good, since they can cause wear on the loop and/or grab the loop during the opening sequence and delay (or worse) the opening of the reserve container.
  7. Interesting video & discussion. From a materials point of view, I'm not sure that polishing a scratched reserve pin is a good solution, since the material is soft enough that it was able to get scratched in the first place. Polishing it up removes the scratches, but does not remove the ability to be scratched again.
  8. That's why you let a rigger look at it and determine if they are still airworthy. It's an absolute waste to throw away slinks because it's not you but someone else who put 50 jumps on them. A rigger will (should) be able to look beyond jump numbers, and determine if the actual state of the slinks merit replacement.
  9. That's why he was wearing sunglasses!
  10. Lightnings also pack at least a size bigger than equivalent-sized 9-cell normal mains. Plus, there's a whole lot more fun in the air with them ^_^.
  11. If the canopy doesn't already have an attachment point, then it will need some work by a master rigger to create one, especially for jumping it repeatedly. As Lee already said, reserves have some different materials used for fabric, but also for the lines. Typically, they are uncoated (to reduce risk of sticking/tension knots I think), which means they are much more susceptible to damage than normally coated lines. Keep an eye on it, and don't expect to get 500 jumps out of it.
  12. Hand it to someone who can open a Velocity or similar on-heading, and let him/her jump it a few jumps while you pack as normally. If the off-headings are gone, it's your body position. If they also have off-headings every jump, its packing or canopy related.
  13. Based on their manuals, neither the Solo nor the Solo II can be adjusted in their volume. The Optima and Optima II can be adjusted, but the lowest volume on Optima II is 112dB, still painfully loud. Wikipedia helpfully states this is above a non-electric chainsaw at 1m distance. Concern regarding hearing loss is valid, but in my opinion better solved by use of earplugs rather than by adjustment of an audible. Ear plugs have the added advantage of protecting against engine noise and freefall wind noise as well as against super-loud audible noise. Think of it this way: earplugs generally lower ALL volumes. If you can hear your audible in freefall, it is loud enough to rise over the rest of the noise. By lowering ALL volumes, you don't change the difference in audible volume vs other noise volume. So you'll still hear your audible perfectly fine. Anecdotically, I use my Optima II mostly for canopy alarms, and typically in my front pocket due to a halfshell helmet (#CRWdog). Those rare cases where I have my audible inside my video helmet and I forgot my earplugs, even the canopy alarms are physically painful to hear. Earplugs are the way to go, and even very high quality foam earplugs will only set you back €30 for 200 pairs, just €0,15 per jump if you grab fresh ones every jump!
  14. There is no specific jump number for this type of stuff. My advice: discuss it with the instructors at your home DZ, and find a demo jumper that has experience jumping with extra stuff. Any jump-specific advice (like higher pull altitude, things to keep in mind, etc) are highly dependent on details like your actual experience, the exact way you want to do this, how you're going to make and hold the banner, etc... Generic things to think about and discuss with said instructors and experienced demo jumpers would be: How to hold it in freefall while maintaining stability (restricted use of arms)? How to handle it during deployment? What happens if you do lose it? How do you exit properly with it (also depends on airplane type)? And probably a couple other things I'm forgetting here.
  15. Take it to your rigger first chance you have, rather than "if it continues". That level of loop wear is abnormal, and a rigger is the most qualified person to diagnose the cause and get you sorted with a good solution. Worst case outcome if you go to a rigger: Some grommets and/or your closing pin needs to be repaired/replaced. Maybe a day's work and similar costs. Worst case outcome if you don't go: your loop breaks while you're doing a floater exit in the door, and your canopy wraps itself over the tail of the plane. That rips it off, killing you and everyone else still in the plane.
  16. I have no specific experience with a Sabre2, but in general reserves are designed and packed to open reliably and quickly. Thus, a typical model reserve parachute will open faster than a typical model main parachute. My personal experience is comparing a PDR193 reserve canopy (two rides, both ~1.2WL) with a Lightning, and the deployment speed was similar. A Lightning is known for quick openings, and I opened my reserve while still at sub-terminal speeds.
  17. All true, but there's one thing I'm missing so far. Make your feedback actionable. And that isn't easy. It is simple to take out the flamethrower and burn someone to the ground over some mistake they made, but that won't help them for the next time. Good feedback explains both why something is wrong, and how to do it right. And both in such a manner that the other person understands it. Only then can the receiver of your feedback actually improve.
  18. An intentional downplane in CRW can be flown in different ways. One way is to stack, plane, climb down and transition to a grip where each jumper holds on to the other jumper's legs. If you fly a side-by-side this way, it's easy to transition to a downplane by steering both canopies out, and its easy to break up the downplane by letting go of the legs. I've tried this a few times myself, and in my experience it is not easy to get a proper grip and you need a lot of force from both persons to keep the grip stable. If one person releases that force, the other won't be able to hang on and both jumpers will fly away from each other. Another way to do it that is physically easier is to make a harness with quick-release that you can connect to your own rig, and have a strap that can be connected between the two jumpers. I have made one jump with such a system (together with a CRW jumper who is very experienced in their use), and it is much easier to create a downplane with them, since you do not rely on muscle power to keep the connection. The downside is that you are more solidly connected to the other jumper, and if you cannot break that connection in time it can result in you both impacting the ground at downplane speeds. Typically, both jumpers have a cutaway system similar to a three-ring system on their end. One of the dangers (no exhaustive list) of this system happens if the strap gets twisted around somehow. This can lock in the release system, making release extremely difficult or pretty much impossible. Hence my advice regarding this topic. Here Be Dragons! Venture forth at your own risk. Always think deeply before you act, and talk with many experienced people. Weigh their advice carefully, and don't throw it aside lightly.
  19. Be careful if you venture there. Those things are nicknamed "Death Straps". There's differing opinions on whether that nickname is deserved or not, but such straps do add risk to a skydive in ways that are not readily apparent, so always keep thinking critically. My advice would be to seek out someone who is experienced in parabatics jumps with and without such straps, and jump/talk with them extensively. And because of their perceived risks, people are more likely to talk construction and dimensions when in-person rather than via the internet with someone far away.
  20. If the ring end up on the wrong side of the riser (outboard while the RSL shackle is inboard), I would recommend against it. In that case, routing the RSL properly is going to be much more difficult, and much more error-prone. Better to get a new set of risers, or find a Master Rigger willing and able to add an RSL ring to the correct riser in the correct place. That shouldn't be an expensive job.
  21. Whoops, time to book my plane tickets again. I've been going to Parasummer for three years now, and every time they managed to hit the right balance between a low-pressure cozy boogie, and solid organization. Perfect for a foreign holiday that includes some of the most awesome views I've seen from above. Veteran's tip: bring liquorice for the manifest/info desk. They seem to like it.
  22. I have never jumped in those specific countries, but I have jumped in nearby countries (Poland, Romania). Home is the Netherlands for me. In all cases, I never needed additional insurance over the default insurance that the KNVvL membership provides, which is 1.5M€ secondary third-party liability insurance (secondary, as in it only pays if I have no other insurance that covers it, and it only pays for damages caused to third-parties). I don't remember if they even needed that, although jumping in the UK did require that insurance. In practice, rules and regulations are likely different between each of those countries. The most fool-proof method would be to contact prospective dropzones on your route and ask them directly what kind of insurance you'll need to be allowed to jump.
  23. My suggestions: 1. Check that it has the correct batteries, and that they are installed with the correct polarity. VISO II needs CR-2325 batteries. 2. Check with new-new batteries. Maybe your 'new' set of batteries have been laying around for too long, and lost too much juice to power up the altimeter. 3. If the problem is still there, I suggest you contact L&B directly, especially if your altimeter is still within warranty.
  24. Yeah, but is it the "20 years" or the "heavy use, getting fuzzed up from wear or heavily faded from sunlight" that's at the root of the strength loss?
  25. (Not my reserve ride, nor my canopy, nor my gear decisions) Risers had no slider bumpers. Slinks and type 17 risers. So yeah, the likely mechanism was the slider slamming into the top tuck tab of the toggle, and dislodging it. Are there commercial risers for sale that have this design toggle, but with normal three-ring system, rather than reversed layout? Or would that require the efforts of a master rigger to create?