sundevil777

Members
  • Content

    7,769
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Gear

  • Main Canopy Size
    210
  • Main Canopy Other
    Pilot ZPX
  • Reserve Canopy Size
    220
  • AAD
    Cypres 2

Jump Profile

  • License
    D
  • Licensing Organization
    USPA
  • Number of Jumps
    1500
  • Years in Sport
    38
  • First Choice Discipline
    Formation Skydiving

Ratings and Rigging

  • USPA Coach
    Yes

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. sundevil777

    BIG BOY RIG

    Do you realize that you have not provided any information about the rig or canopies, manufacturer, model, size, how old...?
  2. Do you mean Charlie Merritt's Sky Hi Pioneer Sport Parachute Club?
  3. sundevil777

    Great beginner canopy for new A license jumper?

    From any of the manufacturers, the canopy models that are made in the bigger sizes are appropriate for the up and coming jumper. That would exclude outliers like CRW and accuracy canopies. Therefore you have lots of choices that would very likely be great for you.
  4. sundevil777

    EPs: Look up before pulling reserve?

    You should not be so sure of your advice. It is wrong to portray the choice as so clear. If the main deploys simultaneously and is already cut away, everything still has to be pulled up and past as the reserve is also deploying. If it is cutaway first, then the loose risers will not just go straight up, they will be flapping around as they go up, with the possibility of snagging the main (it has happened), especially if you have an RSL shackle that will be attached to a riser. If the main container only opens up after the reserve opening shock, then it will fall harmlessly down instead of up, and of course can be chopped with no concern at that time. The PD/army testing concluded that not cutting away was better. You can argue that the canopies used do not represent your situation, but we don't have other testing data, just actual experiences
  5. sundevil777

    Easiest Stability Exits

    You might have some fun closing your eyes intermittently during an exit. You must resist the instinct to squirm like a cat will do to land on its feet. You must trust your launch and body position, ride it out even if it feels like you have been tipped over. In general, I've found that having more confidence than is justified will help performance. Plenty of time to have self-doubt later, go confidently now.
  6. sundevil777

    Altimeter Combos

    I think many are convinced an analog alti will result in less time wasted staring at it compared to a digital alti. I can understand that it seems logical to make that conclusion. I think it is usually incorrect. If you're looking at your alti only long enough to realize it is a long way from breakoff time, you should have been able to tell that from the ground. If you're wanting to know if it is 6 or 5k, I think it takes longer than people usually want to admit to themselves. I have noticed some videos recently where people spend an awful lot of time staring at their analog alti each time they "glance" at it. Real people in freefall might not match up with what seems intuitive.
  7. I found the small rubber bands supplied with it just too short. The guy that designed/makes the mounts shows it to be easy, but I just went with the larger rubber bands and it was a lot easier. Applying a little silicon lube also helped a lot, and would likely help prevent rubber bands from being shredded during installation. I had not thought about using a tube stow, and I wonder which would break first, a tube stow or 2 rubber bands!
  8. I have used the chinmount.com unit for the KISS helmet for several jumps. The quality of the design and the 3D printed parts is very high. Total cost including shipping is only $45 for my session mount for a KISS helmet. It would be only 20 or 25 for a G3 helmet depending on whether you will use a session camera or "full size" gopro. The design has a very high priority on keeping the camera as close as possible to the helmet. The limit for how close it can be depends a lot on the "upward" angle that the camera can achieve. I needed a design that allows a little more "up" angle because I don't naturally fly with my head as high up as a 20 year old...but it was OK because the guy in Sweden that makes these things already has a modified design like that. I love that it has a cutaway and it can be dislodged/snap back in place. I already tested that on a hula hoop dive where I dragged the camera against the hoop. The camera got dislodged, allowing it to get past the hula hoop without upsetting the hoop too much, then snapped back right into place. If a bridle or line does manage to snag it, I think there is a good chance of it clearing on its own. That still leaves the cutaway as an option, or the 2 rubber bands holding it on can break. It hits on the mudflap area of my harness if I don't lean my head back a little when looking far to the side. I think I'll quickly get used to leaning back. Besides that, it rocks!
  9. One must do one's bights right, especially if they're tight.
  10. I would like to understand, but can't from that description. Start by single stowing the band. Then instead of grabbing the band and wrapping it around a second time, your grabbing the band, twisting it 180 degrees, and then wrapping it a second time which creates a knot in the band. In my case, I was not twisting the band 180 degrees, I was spinning the bag 180 degrees, but the end result is the same. The "grabbing the band, twisting it 180 deg, and then..." part isn't unusual, if after twisting the band, which causes you to have a "loop"you then pass over the line bite. I think the problem you've described is in how I see some people wrap the band around a line bite (byte?) as if the band were loose at one end and you needed to wrap the loose end around the lines twice. I noticed this a while back, some young jumper wrapping the band around the bite (as if wrapping a piece of tape around the line bite). It had never occurred to me to do it this way. Instead I've always placed the loop of the band over the bite of the line, then twisted the band 180 deg to make a new loop that again gets placed over the bite of the line. There is no "knot" that results if this is done, but the other way of wrapping the band around the bite definitely seems faster.
  11. I would like to understand, but can't from that description.
  12. What are you calling the base of the lark's head knot? Is it the red box portion? Thanks and sorry about the pic. Was in a hurry before my boss came in. Yes, correct.
  13. This might help: https://www.amazon.com/Transcending-Fear-Doorway-Brian-Germain/dp/0977627705/ref=pd_sim_14_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0977627705&pd_rd_r=R24JA1T6MRWR9CQ9WJWX&pd_rd_w=Qd35E&pd_rd_wg=PaUnP&psc=1&refRID=R24JA1T6MRWR9CQ9WJWX&dpID=51S2YPc7mOL&preST=_SY291_BO1,204,203,200_QL40_&dpSrc=detail
  14. sundevil777

    Altimeter Inaccuracies?

    Please clarify the distinction between deployment and deployment detection, and how canopy detection differs from
  15. Quite right. If rubber bands on the critical locking stows are breaking every few jumps, then it seems likely that occasionally they are breaking before line stretch. They could even be breaking while in the container. After installing a new rubber band, it all too often will show cracks when stretched for the first use.