psw097

I meant they use a linear editting board nothing fancy like computer based non-linear editting.

I pay $5 per edit - basic linear.

A/B editing or Single track? With A/B you need to drag it to the transition line in the timeline display. Single trackyou have to drag it to the cut point between 2 tracks on the same video line. Render is under the menubar - Timeline - Render work area.

I finished it about a month ago. I liked it. Some more detail in places would have been nice and I expect that your rev 2 will elaborate more. The book was a very quick read and made for good reference after your seminar.

Don't know, it was part of the original hack. The latest one does not have that problem and unlocks several very cool features of the 10D. If the Russian guy figures out selectable autofocus modes, it'll be a silver 10D with a smaller buffer and $500 cheaper.

Yes, with one of the origianl hacks - the blinking red-eye light annoyed the crap out of me so I went back to the original. I recently downloaded the FEC hack but have not got to loading it yet. I've heard it works without any issues and no blinknig red-eye.

http://www.dpreview.com/forums/

I was inside a PC-110 for a broken LANC port. It was a bear to get to. I'd be the PC-120 is similar. Lots of disassembly to get to the PCB. The LANC port itself would require good hands to de-solder and put a new one in. I was just going to order a new board for her - then she told me "oh, its still under warrenty I just thought you could fix it quicker." - I slowly put the solder sucker down and put it back together to try not to void the warrenty.

I just repaired a PC100 that wouldn't play any tapes. A small piece of plastic - it looked like the nub that holds the cassette door on - broke off and worked itself into the mechanical section. I found it after disassembly. 2 years ago I repairs my camera after a single grain of sand jammed up the capstan motor. The mechanical sections of the Sony cameras are very open to contamination. Lots of time just cycling them will clear the crud.

Got a dubbing deck on the workbench now that might be getting the maul.

Damn, $289 that's a lot of beer. I charge way too little to fix electric doo-hickies.

Hammer?

That would be a joke - I don't think the color of the camera has much to do with CMOS performance or buffer size. The color typically only effects the price. Well, it probably effects the thermal absorption of UV radiation also.

Yeah, I hear the black one shoot 20% faster with less noise and better sharpness.

I've made 2 myself. The first was a chin cup release and the second clears the right side ratchet. Chin cup is clean but not as functional, ratchet release will work better but looks like a cluge. I think the total do it yourself cost is around a dollar for either.

I had one at my desk last week. I got to play with it for an hours or so. Its f'n tiny - I think it would fit in the tape transport of my PC100. 450g with battery! It has a LANC port. The filter diameter is only 25mm so most converters would only work with a stepper ring. It also has manual focus - its in the menus but still functional. Most stuff is in menus now - and they are the annoying new Sony GUI menus that make it frustrating to find anything useful. It looks airworthy to me if a WA converter could be found. If I didn't have so many M batteries I'd think about one for my other helmet.

Getting a Creative Muvo2 for $200 and stripping the 4 gig CF card? The backorder list is long.

If you made them all forest green you'd sell more canopies.

This is different than other weekends? There is something magical about seeing strange boobie. I'm still waiting on that naked emotion training - would be a good weekend for it.

No way I'm commiting this far in advance. If freakous commits I'd think about it but Easter is weeks away.

My Protrack recorded my last spinning line twist chop. The lowest point it got to was a little under 60 MPH - around 5000 feet/min - before the reserve activation shut off the recording. The wingloading was high, 2.2/1, though.

You can calculate the hyperfocal distance with this: http://dfleming.ameranet.com/dofjs.html Edit: whoops, broke the clicky.

http://www.powershot.com/powershot2/customer/manual.html

A 50mm is still a 50, that doesn't change. The focal length does not change since the sensor is the same distance from the lens as the film would be. Its just the FOV is smaller since the sensor is smaller than the film and the lens image circle.

I've been extremely happy with the Tamron 28-75/2.8 XR DI - its very fast, sharp and light. I use it for swoopers and such. Of course, you would be missing the entire WA section from 15mm to 28mm - for WA I use a Sigma 12-24/4.5-5.6 when there is light (slow) and a Sigma 20/1.8 in low/indoor light. None are cheap, nor are they "L" glass expensive.