flyhy

Ok, thanks people that helps a lot..

Hi, I'm looking into buying a new cypres and am just wondering about the difference between a 1-pin and a 2-pin.. ? Which one would you recommend?

My canopy got cut (by customs?) when it got shipped over to me and I'm now in the process of a complaint to get compensation.. They're asking for the amount of damage in $ (incl. reference) but I'm not sure where to get such info and I don't have enough time to find a local rigger.. The canopy got a 5cm (2") cut through both layers of the center cell. If anyone can estimate how much those two patches (+labour) are worth and how much a canopy generally looses value from such damage (in %) that would be a great help!

anyone..?

I had canopy with the same problem and ended up measuring all the ribs to find a 2inch difference between the same cells on each side.. Be good to find out why your canopies turn just so you have something to get back to the manufacturer with.. I'd send them all back, as you say no canopy should have a built-in turn!

Are your lower brake lines HMA like the rest of the lineset?? If so you'd want to replace them anyway as HMA isn't endurable enough for the wear lower brake lines have to handle.. I've seen a guy's lower HMA brake line snap on landing, not nice. So your rigger should be able to replace them with spectra or vectran and make them slightly longer at the same time. If they are not HMA you might even be able to lengthen the lower part without replacing the line depending on how much longer you want them and on how much line is fingertrapped inside the lines.

get it fixed! do you know the reason for the turn? Compare the length of the line groups to see if one's out of place (i've had that before..). Or is it the fabric that's asymmetric? (had that before too..)

depends on the canopy i guess.. but all canopies I ever packed for myself or other jumpers opened just as they normally would...

I've used this method for 4 years now, about 3000 packjobs, and would never go back to anything else! it takes a while to get used to but then it's easy and it doesn't affect the openings! and most importantly: no chance for line overs, that should be reason enough!

I've got an old crossfire 109 and suspect the brake lines aren't quite right (even though it's just been re-lined..). Anyhow, I'm not getting a reply from the manufacturer so I was wondering if anyone out there's got the same canopy could you measure your brake lines, especially the upper part from steering lines cascade to the toggle stow loop for me? cheers.

where exactly can I find the complete bulletin on dz.com's home page..?? I must be blind.. do you have a link?

you forgot to mention the kick ass people you work with..! ;p *k*

hi rhys we get this sort of crap all the time in Wanaka in the summer when the ground heats up and warm air rises. Unfortunatly these rising air streams appear as randomly as the bubbles when you boil water in a pot, and with most upward drifts you get down drafts as well, and those can be quite nasty especially when you hit them on landing and even though you bury the toggles you don't get much lift. When those differences in air temperature get stronger and stronger there's also chance for sudden strong windgusts (from any direction!) and whirly-whirlies, neither of which you want to have around when landing a parachute. I reckon when the wind conditions get too unpredictable it's best to stop jumping for a while until the winds settle inn/down, maybe wait til later on in the day when the ground starts cooling down a bit. ..if you don't have that option then just let your canopy fly, keep it pressurized and leave yourself outs on landing incase you hit a downdraft or get picked up by a thermal.. hope this helps. *koni*

compatibility with your video lens is the most important! I think the wider the better, find it easier to fly close to the tandem and always keep them in frame. Recommend.3-.42 (video) & 16mm fisheye from Zenit (cheap!) ...

Can't you just get a step ring?