erdnarob

Thanks Ron, but has the USPA made it clear about having advanced students (ie. solo or self supervised) on Pro mode ? Once I was coaching a friend of mine still on student status (34 jumps) in a DZ near Toronto Ontario. When I did her rig inspection I saw that the Vigil was set up on Pro mode. I was a bit annoyed. I then asked the DZO about it. He told me that was OK since she was on solo status for a while. I have no idea if the CSPA regulations have provisions for this issue. I will check. There is still many grey zones here and there in the regulations. But in the meantime common sense is still the best. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Thanks everybody for answering my thread. I posted that thread matter-of-factly to make sure I wouldn't influence anybody. Personally, I wouldn't tell a "A" license holder to jump using the student mode on his AAD for the following reasons : 1) Being a student means that the jumper makes very particular jumps which require relatively high opening altitude (4000-5000 ft). This is quite different than what a "A" license holder is doing and I would say even quite different than what a solo or self supervised jumper is doing either (Knowing that a solo or self supervised jumper is still on student status) 2) As some people posted it, it's not only a question of altitude firing (200 ft higher) but the firing speed is also way smaller which makes the possibility of an AAD firing even more likely to happen. It was a VIGIL1 AAD where the firing speed on STUDENT mode being 20 m/s = 45 MPH or 43% less than the 35 m/s =78 MPH of the PRO mode, quite a difference. 3) If a manufacturer has chosen those speeds related with those two modes, they should have very good reason to do it and they sure have sought extensive advice from many jumpers and instructors to get those figures and choose them. Of course, the "A" license holder should know what he is doing including the parameters of those two set ups, but the advice to stay on STUDENT mode was given by an official who seemingly, according the AAD owner, didn't explain the difference between the two modes and what could be the possible consequences of either choices. Being a senior instructor I suggested to this AAD owner to switch right away his AAD on PRO mode to match the type of jumps he was doing. I gave him also the related explanations. He told me later he did choose the PRO mode. Note1 : As hackish points it out mistakenly, that issue was never discussed in the last two year safety days, it happened I was in charge of those two safety days, for accommodations, topics and the choice of the speakers. Note 2 : the jumper was jumping a 150 sf canopy including a wing loading of about 1.0 a rough evaluation since the jumper is quite a light guy. Note 3 : An AAD i a back up device but that kind of device has to be used wisely and it is up to experienced people in charge like qualified, knowledgeable and current instructors to give advice in such a touchy matter. Note 4 : It is (I believe) current in many DZ to put solo jumper (self supervised ) jumper (still on student status) on PRO or EXPERT mode since they make different jumps than supervised students. Is that makes sense ? Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

As alway a jumper, like a mountain climber, a scuba diver.... should know his equipment and technique associated, it's a survival factor. That being said, a soft links is a sort of improvement...lighter, easier to install or replace and stronger than a French link. But that doesn't relieve the jumper from doing a preventative inspection. For the bridle anchorage, look at the Vector system. They don't use at all any link, just a lark head knot with the bridle cord itself. The best I have seen Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

The only "plastic" material I have seen quite stronger than metal of the same size is a carbon fiber rod. It is used to reinforce concrete when only a thin layer is possible to be installed, like for some bridge. They offer resistance and lightness. That kind of material is very expensive and so far I have the impression that it is not used for hardware. The metal offers abrasion resistance and strength. Note: when a parachute opens, forces are as high as 3-4 G and done every jump. I don't see a plastic hardware made from ABS or else used on a parachute equipment at places bearing the opening forces. Slinks are used on parachute but they are made with several hundred of tiny braided fibers which is quite different. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Thanks Peter to mention that. Obviously, the force to get the pin moving or sliding is way different than the force held by the pin from the loop. Using my positive leverage tool to close the reserve and applying force with a scale on the lateral rod used as a lever. Here is the result I got : type : Cypres closing loop braid : new single braid date: July 2008 86.5 / 7 = 12.36 (lever ratio) 15 lbs x 12.36 = 185.4 lbs (breaking strenght for one braid) 15 lbs is the force read from the scale applied on the lever. In an actual loop there is two braids which makes a theoretical breaking strenght of 2 x 185.4 = 370.8 lbs Note 1: I would say that when closing a one pin reserve the force applied on the loop is between 150 and 250 lbs Note 2: The size of the grommet used with the loop at the bottom of the reserve container is influencing the possible bending of the washer. Bigger is the grommet hole (size), more leverage is applied on the washer between where it is in contact with the grommet (on the side) and the hole in the middle. Note 3: The problem of the washer bending is totally unacceptable, no matter the percentage of faulty grommets is. If the grommet bending can cause a premature reserve activation, it is a major issue. Manufacturers have to test the resistance of those grommets with their own rig, just like every reserve rip cord has to be tested for 3 seconds at 300 lbs. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

If you like a steep descent and less flare than a nine cells, the Spectre would be the one to choose, if you want an extra forward speed + an improved flare you should get a Sabre 2. If you want forward speed, a good flare but still want to have a 7 cells, choose the Storm. Personally, i find that the Sabre 2 is an all around canopy, actually, the most popular in the world now. One of the cause is that the Sabre 2 has a wide range of loading factor making that canopy good for advanced students and for people who are looking for relatively high performance as well. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

««allows excess dissolved gasses to exit the body not "dissolve again back to normal". »» During the 24 hours after scuba diving, the normal breathing will do the job of getting your blood stream and tissues back to the normal. Thank you to bring more precision to my statement. I just wanted to stay as simple as possible. What causes the most troubles are the bubbles in the blood stream and tissues. Too many can kill you. Stopping and obviously breathing at those stops will eliminate partially the bubbles and will put your body more in equilibrium with the water pressure at that level. Agreed I should have added that the 24 hours not only dissolve the bubbles but get rid of them provided you continue to breath Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Thanks Hvance, I have seen the thread you mention. But my concern is more about telling a beginner with a A license, 60-70 jumps, jumping a 150 sf canopy to stay on STUDENT mode. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

One day that I was packing a reserve, I was checking the AAD status and functioning as it is required. I saw that this AAD was set on STUDENT mode. The owner told me that he was told to keep the AAD on this mode probably because he was new at the DZ. He had at the time an A license and about 60-70 jumps total and was jumping a 150 sq.ft parachute in a sport rig. I would like to know what you instructor, rigger, experienced people think about that request. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Frequency of the reserve rides seems to be decreasing for the past 20 years. I was at Skydive Chicago Summerfest 2010 for their 9 day boogie and saw or heard of only 2-3 reserve rides at all. I would say that about 5000 to 8000 jumps have been made. Reasons are: 1) use of square parachutes less prone to malfunction than round ones 2) better knowledge of how to pack square parachute. Distinction being made between what is really important and cosmetic 3) the license requirement asking how to pack parachute 4) more parachute packing courses done by a rigger Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

A PD Optimum 143 has a different volume than the PD reserve 143. If you want a good looking container and keep your rigger happy, you should maybe make an effort to stick with your first choice. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Who said you cannot get a maintenance with a Vigil ???? I have sent back my Vigil for maintenance and possible up date but unlike other AAD's competitors I took the decision to do it at a time and after a use suitable for me, just like a car. And doing so, Vigil people printed on paper a list including details of what they have checked or replaced (unlike one major competitor) Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

I agree with you. I did already both (skydiving and scuba diving) the same day but always doing skydiving first. Doing scuba makes a scuba diver getting pressurized air dissolved in the blood stream to compensate the outside water pressure. When coming back toward the surface, stops have to be done at certain level (depth) and during a certain time depending on how deep and how long you have dived and this to allow the blood stream to get rid of the expanded air (less depth therefore more air volume then possibility of air bubbles in the blood stream just like when you open a bottle of Coca cola or beer). Going skydiving after scuba diving will expose you a lot more to get those bubble in the blood stream because of the altitude and low air pressure. The 24 hours waiting allows all air micro bubbles of your blood stream to dissolve again back to the normal. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

There is no reason to be embarrassed at all about getting your A license at 46 jumps even if it took a certain time. People go at their own pace. The important is that you finally got your A license. I prefer somebody like you who has had the time to get well ready and...ripe to get your first license than somebody who rushes to get it absolutely as soon as possible. There is a big difference between having a license and to be able to perform at your license level. OTOH having more than the minimum requirements doesn't hurt. Since you took your time, you certainly had more time to study, get more knowledgeable... about skydiving. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

You forget mastering gravitational waves or particles. Not for today but... when we will know the intimate nature of the gravitation, new very efficient technologies will arise...without any pollution. I have this dream....!!!!? Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

The difference between brass grommet and stainless steel grommet dies is the die steel resistance or/and heat treatment. Using a lathe I have made several grommet dies (no. 0, 3, 4 and 8). I always have chosen at the time the hardest steel available in my area like the cold rolled steel with the proper amount of carbon to be able to heat treat them. Tool steel would be the best. Have a look at the picture. I have made those two dies for brass grommets (years ago) but because of the good quality of the steel, even without heat treatment I have successfully used the small one for a stainless steel grommet no. 0 installation. There is no trace of damage on the small die. Note 1. Die for grommet size 0 have the same dimensional spec both for brass or stainless steel while the dies for slider grommets (brass and stainless steel) are different. The no. 8 die shown on the picture is for brass grommets. Note2. The whole die doesn't have to be necessarily made in one piece. Just the part in contact with the grommet to be should be made of hard steel. I hope that answer your question

If what you say is correct ie. (holes done with a die), the hole chamfer or bevelled edge should remove the possible fractures. It would be interesting using a microscope to see the damaged washers and look for micro cracks. Also how do you explain that most of the washers are OK ? The very small number of failures has suggested me that those faulty washers have missed the heat treatment. Speculations here. But wait a minute, I just have tried a Cypres washer with a file strike and I can see it is made of ordinary soft steel. OTOH the visible remainder of the burr around the washer shows that the washers are stamped at least for the round shape. Mystery ??? Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

After seeing the damaged Cypres washer picture, I would say that it is not a question of new, old or corroded washer. I think it's a missing heat treatment problem. Any parachute rig piece of hardware would be put out of shape without the appropriate heat treatment. Could this washer by any chance have two holes drilled too close ? Personally it's a big surprise and I never had that problem with the rigs I have packed including the Wings systems. However, I am now using more and more the Vigil washer which is made of stainless steel. It has only one hole and 2 clefts on the sides. See the picture. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

I had my FJC in 1973. It was organized in two sessions (Tuesday and Thursday) of 3 and half hours each. I like the idea since we had homework to do between the two sessions like taking a poised position and simulate a launch from a Cessna 182 done using a kitchen table edge as a strut. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Here we come. Hope that will solve your problem.

Here is the way I teach the people to S fold a canopy. 1. When laying on the canopy in order to bleed the air (using forearm), get it as a roll (trying to keep the lines as much as possible at the center) stay laying on the canopy and back up a little bit then take one third of the roll (at the pilot chute end) and fold it under itself. When you do that, have your hand under completely under the roll (catching the other side) where the fold is supposed to be. 2. Clean the folds with your hands in the crease to keep it tight. Continue to lay on it, back up again, keep on bleeding the air using your forearm them grab the 2 thicknesses of the roll and fold those two folds on the top this time to get now a total of three folds. All the time you lay on the canopy. This way makes you able to keep control on the fabric by applying a constant pressure and allowing you to have the use of your two hands. Moreover, if you need a few seconds break nothing is moving. 3. Still laying on the three folds get the DB ready, put the DB bottom flap under the 3 folds and fill up a corner then lock it with an elbow and arrange the other corner and the fabric in the middle. Make sure to expose the rubber bands. Use the rubber bands attachments to pull them with one hand while the other hand is stuffing the remaining fabric in the DB, repeat that the other side and when you have 3 third of the S folded canopy in the DB apply pressure on the DB mouth in the middle and get on your knees. 4. Put the DB upward always locking the canopy fabric with one hand, stuff the remaining part of the canopy into the DB making like a sort of small fold. Always make sure to comb the lines up to insure the stoppers are still against the grommets when you do that last little fold. 5. Stuff and compress the fabric into the DB and make the first locking line stow and so on... Good luck. Expect to find it a bit difficult the firs times. Take it slow first and tell us how it works. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

A balloon jump is an interesting adventure. But because it's done at low altitude (3000 to 5000 ft) and because there is no relative wind, normally I would recommend a jumper to have 100 jumps and a B license. You may be OK at 80 but get the green light from an instructor or a person who is knowledgeable with balloon jump. I would say so for an helicopter jump. Since there is no relative wind at exit, that could be quite disturbing since there is no air to grab on and get stable for 3-5 seconds. IMO this why the style set is important for a jumper, you can recover fast from any position. If you do a ballon jump remember to exit head up because you will not be able to get flat for few seconds if you dive. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

I have seen people doing it, ie. pumping the toggles before lowering them for the contact with the ground. I think it's a coincidence that you got a soft landing doing so. As a canopy pilot, you are in the same situation than an airplane or glider pilot. Would you imagine such pilot pulling up and down (pumping) the control column for a "better" landing ??? No way. Like an aircraft pilot, for landing you should judge your height above the ground and apply progressively the ailerons (your brakes) to round up your trajectory changing it from oblique to an horizontal line always having a lot of space ahead of you. It almost an art to do so. Practice and practice is the best way. According a seminar I followed with John LeBlanc from Performance Designs, he was telling us that there is 4 typical mistakes people are doing at landing. 1) not staying calm for at least 10 seconds before the landing 2) trying to protect yourself (a reflex which changes your hands therefore the toggles) 3) trying to reach with arms or feet (this affects you position in the harness and/or your arms and feet positions) 4) anticipate the landing (eg. put your feet forward or making anything before landing you should do only at landing) From my point of view, pumping the toggles is a sort of action to average your toggles control not already well mastered. That can seem OK but you have to get that control. With some high performance canopies, the results of this kind of action will hurt you. Look at experienced people, they generally don't do that. Learn to have a smooth, precise and efficient control of your canopy. Later on you can apply that to any canopies. Beside this, pumping your toggles will wear down your steering lines prematurely. I recommend you to have somebody taking a video (shot from the side) at your landing. You will see exactly at what height your actions are done and you will be able to make a correction for the next jump. Good luck and tell us your progress.

««in the event of a spinning mal, more nylon out is better than none»» A cut away done in the proper sequence, spinning mal or not, is way better than just more nylon approach. I made 4 cutaways and had two totals (couldn't find the main handle). A yearly practice in a suspended harness will reinforce your memory muscles and brain and makes you more ready for the possible real cutaway. If you don't do that, expect to get big surprises at a time you don't want any of them. At my DZ we ask the students to look at and grab with two hands the cut away handle, then while pulling it to keep eye contact with the reserve ripcord handle to finally grab with two hands this silver handle. All happens suddenly and even a normal force to pull the handles can seem hard to do when not prepared. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

Not quite, mine is designed to fall on a mattress after cutting away. Something more realistic and easy to make. Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.