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BillyVance

Car repair question

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Got a '96 Mazda Protege with 213K+ miles on it. A few days ago I went to the grocery store to do a little shopping. Got back in the car, started it up, then checked up on messages on my phone. Then I started feeling weird vibrations and saw smoke coming out from under the hood. Shut it down, popped the hood. Saw that the belt that runs from the engine to the AC compressor and the power steering had burned off. It was just hanging there. Since the car could still run and get in gear and drive, I took it straight across the street to the oil change place, right before they closed for the day. The guy was nice enough to take a look anyway.

He said that the AC compressor pulley had froze up (wouldn't spin anymore) and that caused the belt to burn through. I told him the AC had not worked in about 7 years and I didn't care to get it fixed, but without the belt, I don't have power steering. Not a big problem for me since I have enough upper body strength to drive it, but not my wife, since its her car.

He did say that fixing the AC would be pricey, but if I brought the car back the next day or so, he would see if he could just free up the stuck pulley. I haven't gone back yet, been too busy.

Anybody have any ideas? The engine and everything else is still good. We plan to drive the wheels off this motherfucker to see how much farther it can go before the engine conks out or other major parts fail to the point the repair costs are not worth it.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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You could always put a shorter belt on and bypass the AC compressor. Or you can go junk yarding or you could try to get a new pully clutch.

If it was me, I'd go with a shorter belt. Go to an auto parts store and try them out in different sizes.

Are you sure that your water pump isn't driven off the belt? If so, that's a big deal!
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Since this is the new car thread questions thread....


Why does my check engine light come on when i get to a half a tank and then go off when i top it off?
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I have a '99 Protege. They are great cars.

Get a junk A/C compressor from the junkyard. Actually, all you need is the A/C compressor clutch. Should not be too pricey.

Good luck.



Hmmm hadn't thought of that. I don't really have any mechanic skills but I did change out a valve gasket on it once. I'll probably end up going to a mechanic to install the junk part if I find what I need. A little research is in order....

Thanks.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Since this is the new car thread questions thread....


Why does my check engine light come on when i get to a half a tank and then go off when i top it off?



Because your gas cap won't hold a seal.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Are you sure that your water pump isn't driven off the belt? If so, that's a big deal!



I have no idea. Good question. I did not see any increase in water temp on the way home from the shop (9 mile drive) if that is any indication.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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See if you can find a belt that fits the same car without A/C. It would be shorter, and would be able to run the power steering without going around the A/C compressor pulley.

Alternatively, measure how long the belt would need to be to run the power steering without the A/C and find a belt that size.
That assumes a clear path for the belt without including the A/C.
"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

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Napaland shows a belt, part number 25040390 as an P/S and A/C belt. They show part number 25040350 for only P/S. It is a smaller belt. You would probably be able to just put on the smaller belt and bypass the compressor. Worst case, you might have to remove the compressor.
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Napaland shows a belt, part number 25040390 as an P/S and A/C belt. They show part number 25040350 for only P/S. It is a smaller belt. You would probably be able to just put on the smaller belt and bypass the compressor. Worst case, you might have to remove the compressor.



Cool! There is a Napa Auto Parts store in town. I assume they will have it? I'll swing by and ask them in the morning. Thanks.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Dude, you do anything with that AC system , e.g. changing the compressor (which is froze up on your car from what you describe) you'll have to disconnect the AC coolant lines. While doings so, you'll drain your AC system of coolant rendering the AC system useless.

Once you've replaced the compressor, You'll need to re-charge the system with new coolant.

Sorry for the bad news, but you're looking at taking the car to a certified mechanic.

One question: does your AC compressor have an electronic clutch on the pulley? This device engages and disengages the compressor on demand. If it does and it's not froze up, you can un-plug your AC compressor so it will not engage the clutch, replace the original Serpentine built and drive the car without AC.

Just roll the windows down and crank up the toons! You'll look sick and no-one will know.

Good Luck
Mikey C.
Cause they know, and so do I, The high road is hard to find
A detour to your new life, Tell all of your friends goodbye

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Are you sure that your water pump isn't driven off the belt? If so, that's a big deal!



I have no idea. Good question. I did not see any increase in water temp on the way home from the shop (9 mile drive) if that is any indication.



without looking, I am pretty sure it is...

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Look for the water pump. It will have coolant lines going to it. It is very possible that the large cooling far is attached directly to the water pump. If this is driven by the timing belt, then you should be VERY careful driving the car. It is possible the pump is not circulating the very hot coolant past the sensor, prohibiting you from knowing the real engine temp. Personally, I would remove the AC pump and switch to a small belt, or find a replacement pump and install a regular belt. Lots of times the idler pulley is different on AC and non AC models, hence you cannot just remove the AC unit and use the other belt. Check it out though, see what you can do!

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I snapped a pic. Hope it clarifies what I'm trying to describe. You can see the three pulleys without a belt. The one on the left is the engine. I'm a bit confused as to which pulley on the right is for what. The one on top spins freely. The one on the bottom does not. I can't budge it. The only other belt in there is the engine/alternator I believe. You can see it on the pulley above on the left. The alternator is out of sight to the left. Is the water pump within the engine housing or something? Because the belt still on there goes around three pulleys - the two lined up vertically on the engine, and the alternator at left.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Most 4-cylinder engines have the water pump driven internally by the timing belt.

The idea is to see if you can route a belt to hit all of the other pulleys and not come into contact with the AC compressor. If you can't do that with the compressor in place, you'll need to see what they do for non-AC cars.

Most likely there will be an idler pulley in the place of the compressor, just to route the belt correctly. You can probably get one out of a junkyard, but it shouldn't be expensive to buy as it's just a bracket with a free-wheeling pulley.

I'm guessing that with 200k+ miles on the car, you're not too worried about resale, so removing the compressor shouldn't be a big deal.

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Most 4-cylinder engines have the water pump driven internally by the timing belt.

The idea is to see if you can route a belt to hit all of the other pulleys and not come into contact with the AC compressor. If you can't do that with the compressor in place, you'll need to see what they do for non-AC cars.

Most likely there will be an idler pulley in the place of the compressor, just to route the belt correctly. You can probably get one out of a junkyard, but it shouldn't be expensive to buy as it's just a bracket with a free-wheeling pulley.

I'm guessing that with 200k+ miles on the car, you're not too worried about resale, so removing the compressor shouldn't be a big deal.



Exactly. I don't give a shit about the compressor. It's been dead for years. There is an object sticking out just right of the engine pulley that might possibly interfere with the belt path if I bypass the AC compressor. I'll take it to the mechanic today and see what he says.

Thanks
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Trade in the damn car, Billy!



Why should I? It's not worth even $1000, and we have a pick up truck and a minivan. Like I said, we're gonna drive the wheels off this motherfucker just to see how far it goes.

Problem fixed! Bought a belt from Napa Auto Parts for $10.50 + tax, then took the car to our long-time mechanic who jacked the car up and installed the belt, bypassing the AC compressor, and didn't charge me a dime, even though it was a slow day today. :)

He even said it appeared that the ball bearings in the compressor melted or something and locked it up. Fuck it.

Thanks for the help guys.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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