Cloggy

Well, it's not an Icon, but as it looks similar... Couldn't resist the chance to show off So, if your friend likes orange... I saw some Icon's around on my DZ: they look very nice, well built and have very happy owners.

I've quite a few hours (days even

If it does take up any line, it is negligible (thickness of the line at the most?): the line doesn't back up on itself, it runs on with a little twist in the knot area. Imagine a strand coming from the top. It sort of spirals through the hole and continues on to the bottom. (Wow, difficult to describe this in words... ) Best to grab a piece of old line and give it a go. Bart Oops, just saw Johnny already answered this...

I tried this yesterday as I wanted to lengthen my brake lines and don't have a sewing machine. It's quite easy actually. After you make the loop you carefully poke a hole through the line, make sure you go through the middle of the outside and the inside line. (Yeah, I know it's just one line...). Then, with a loop of thin wire (I used a paperclip) you pull the loop through the hole. You're right, effectively this sort of turns the fingertrap inside out, locking it. I pulled the loop through, I hope it doesnt NEED to be the running end... (In the first pic, I loosened up the 'knot', to make it a bit more clear)

There is address and email info on the box. Can't find mine anymore, of course... Didn't see that Helge already posted the details...

Actually it will be possible to program the altitudes and averaging interval to calculate ff speeds. As for the logging, I'm sure Alti-2 is working on it right now. Might be a good idea to give them your feedback too: help them to improve the product! I use my Neptune as a visual, I really like it for that and it's great to get to know my new canopy. Bart

Maybe GARtrip (www.gartrip.de) can give you the info you want. It's been a while since i've used it, but it can do speed/altitude profiles etc. I don't think it will make a true 3d picture though.

I don't see any problem with stalling either. I load my Sabre2-170 at about 1.3 (enough for my experience level ) This weekend I flew with the toggles all the way down (knee level...) and the canopy just will not stall. I need to take a wrap on the steering lines to get it to stall. I found also that the factory settings on the brake lines are just a bit too short for frontrisers, so I'm going to lengthen them with 4 to 6 inches. (see what my rigger advises). Bart

Well, it's all been said... I put the Sabre2 170 in a Atom 0 without too much hassle. But this is definitely at the limit, stretching things a bit (literally) ;) Actually, I don't have to pull very hard to close the container, but you can see it's more than it's designed for. Spectre has smaller packing volume, but to put it in a 00?? I doubt you'll get it in in the first place. And if you get it in, you want to demonstrate your impeccable packing skills (you'll need those...) for the next few hundred jumps??

Although their website suggest use for inexperienced pilots too, the manual recommends min. 500 jumps at w/l 1.3 or more. Makes me wonder a bit how HiPer defines inexperienced... But the Nitro is something I'd like to try whenever I get bored with my Sabre2.

Maybe do a jump with an AFF-instructor? If you make an appointment, there is less chance of finding excuses too... That's how I started again after 7 years not jumping. I was nervous having thoughts like "can I still do it", "will my brain not lock up" etc. etc. It was reassuring having someone around that could help, just in case. The jump went really cool and after that I had the trust in myself back and knew I could jump alone. I am still nervous (hey, jumping from a plane is not a very sensible thing to do ) but the moment of jumping is not the stresspoint anymore. It really starts to feel like a familiar and trusted environment. I agree with you: ignorance is bliss . First jump: gee, what happened... 3rd jump: ah, this is what happens.. 5th jump: this is crazy, I'm not going to jump! (Of course, I went after the ready-yes-go..) But as you learn more, you get to trust your own reactions and your gear. I like to know a lot about gear so I can understand what can go wrong, know how to handle it and understand that there is only a very slight chance something will go wrong. Good luck!

Newton first described the phenomenon in 1675. Guess Newton's name just stuck to it...

Well... If the weaves stretches back anyway, why would canopy manufacturers bother with preshrinking the tapes at all...?

I did a few B-line stalls on paragliders: bit scary at first but fun! The descent was about 30ft/s. The reopening is not the best for the canopy, but that wouldn't be important in this application. Maybe B-line stall is not an option because of the higher wing loads? I'm a bit jealous of Dan's job, sounds like a lot of fun Must be an amazing sight to see a swarm of these things flock together and head to the DZ. But... if I were a tandemmaster I'd start looking for another job...

The book is on the Big Air Sportz webpages now.

So, you're going to wear your Neptune all day long??

Maybe this is something for you? It's a bit expensive though... http://www.flytec.com/5030.html

Sounds like you got a brand new canopy I have about 15 jumps on my new Sabre 2 and the end cells never inflate fully (had a few occasions where 4 cells stay closed, like you describe). Doesn't worry me: it's always symmetrical, stays on heading and a quick pull on the toggles or rears and it's cured. Bart

Is this an old manual?? Nothing else you can use? Tetrachloroethylene (PER) is possibly causing cancer (no great risk associated) and has some neurotoxic effects: not something you want te mess with too much. There is a daily limit workers can be exposed to.

Yep, you would need something like acid dyes, preferably specially for nylon. I think it involves heating the dye as well for it to 'take' properly. I tried to dye the fabric of a garden chair with wool dye and more acid a long time ago, but the color did not spread evenly... But that's maybe because the nylon was already a bit worn. But Viking, I hope you're not seriously considering tie dyeing something on your rig?? (My reply is for informational purposes only, and I can not be held bla bla bla etc. etc. ... )

Well, as a kid I made some tie dye t-shirts at school. Grab a white t-shirt. Pull/roll some fabric together, tie some packing string tightly in various places, put it in the dye, rinse, dry, unpack (repeat with other colour for extra spectacular effect). Makes you wonder why it is such an expensive option on rigs...

I put about 10 jumps on my new Sabre2 (also 170) and I like it a lot! All nice stand-up landings so far. I had a few landings where I had to take a few steps, but that was because I was not flaring fully. I have just been doing straight-in approaches, no frontrisering. However, I do make sure I come in with "no brakes" to pick up speed. What I do first is level off, keep flying parallel, and at the right moment flare. Difficult to explain what the right moment is.... I think I flare when I feel there is no energy left to keep flying level. I found that I have to make the transition to level flight (and to flare) fairly brisk. When I take too long, I just bleef off speed and don't have enough energy left for a good flare. But there seems to be a lot of reserve on the flare. On one occasion I was way too late with flaring (I thought) but the Sabre2 leveled out immediately, I was dragging my feet through the grass and the flare lifted me up and put me back on my feet. It probably looked cool, but I wasn't too pleased with myself for letting myself be surprised like that... The descent and forward speed is faster than I was used to with the student canopies. I have my brakes at factory settings. Every time I forget to look if the lines are too long or not: having too much fun flying ;)

I have the same problem (and the same head circumference). Z1 is too small, as you noticed yourself. The Oxygen XL is too small for me, the XL 0.5 is just OK for me. Presently, I'm considering the Paratec Freezr. This is really a large helmet with lot's of room and it seems good quality. Unfortunately the dealer didn't have the padding in my size, so I couldn't get a perfect fit. You can mix and match paddings from different sizes to adapt the helmet to your particular shape of head. I want to make a testjump with it though before buying, to see if it moves around in freefall. It's also somewhat cheaper than the Oxygen (at least here in Europe). I like the closing system from the Oxygen better, it draws the helmet nice and tight around your head, whereas the fit from the Freezr comes from the padding. The closing strap is for 'loss prevention' only, it doesn't pull tight against the chin. Bart

Thanks for your help. I thought I'd looked at all the threads, but I seem to have missed the one about the clotting. My rig is from an European manufacturer (Parachutes de France) so I doubt they will have much experience with the Scotchgard. I'll drop them a line anyway and I'll get back here when I've an answer.

Thanks for the help all! I think it would be difficult indeed to get something like aerosol cans shipped... And it seems the cost of shipping is going to be three times the cost of the can... I contacted 3M in Europe, see what they have to say. Maybe it's not a bad idea to waterproof my rig with the green stuff: we have a small PA-competition coming up with approach over a lake.. Maybe I'm going to try the green stuff on a small area like the legstraps, see how that turns out. I'm still curious why the red cap stuff is recommended over the green stuff: will it look much different or is it more difficult to apply??