Hellis

A complex but possible system would be to sell bluetooth tags to the jumpers. The newer versions have a range of 100+- feet. This way you don't have to sign in after a jump, if you are within range you are (probably) OK. If someone is missing you will be able to track the guy too

If I remember correct squirrels rig has aluminium hardware. And thats a BASErig. Look at their video with the 'girl' on their site.

I think your friend needs to read the manual. It will most likely answer his and your question. However, no the main and freebag will not always be connected. If the reserve PC is stronger than the mains drag then the skyhook will unhook itself.

I have tried that. I did not worked too well. It worked great on my old Xerox.

Or just buy seatbelt covers and wrap them around the legstraps.

Anyone else who thinks the handle looks like it has sharp edges?

I have no real knowledge of this but I believe that snake handlers don't start with green mambas and similar snakes in the middle of the jungle far from any help. Question to you: Would you rather have handled non deadly snakes 200 times or less than 100 times before you gave it a try, or maybe you like to give it a try on the first? There can't be any laws saying you are not allowed, only guidelines that it's probably not a good idea.

I believe there is. Scroll down and look at the youtube video. Not sure it's a photocell but something like it.

It is cool. I'm not a fan of analouge instruments. And this is kind of a hybrid. Once the microcontroller that I'm looking for is in production I will start building a altimeter/visual warning-thing. Just for fun, but in my opinion will be better than this. (if I get it to work )

I read in the FAQ that they might add labels to the LEDs. Not sure it will make it easier to read with labels though. Then you would have to first "find the LED" then read the number. Beeing a (proud) metric , it's not for me. And I really dislike analouge altimeters, I like to read displays. Yeah, it should be radioactive! And the slogan should be: "What will kill you first? Lack of altitude awarness or the radioactivity"

Just found it and wanted to share it. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/aonsquared/tritium-skydiving-altimeter

You should always treat other canopies in the air as they are your enemies.

Not everytihing on alibaba/aliexpress are scams or cheap copies. But there are lots of scammers so be aware if you plan to order anything. I have orderd twice from different manufacturers on alibaba and once on aliexpress. Both orders on alibaba was as expected but the guy at aliexpress probably tried to scam me, luckily I used a escrow service. The "rules" are the same on alibaba as on all other equal sites (amazon, ebay etc.), deal that are too good to be true generally are. No manufacturer can produce everything, so if they claim to make cloths, carparts, mobile phones, car tires, etc. then they will scam you.

Thank you for making the test and finding out how good or bad the system works. My own, very few, tests of the G3 buckle was that it failed every time. But I tested a friends helmet and was not very keen on pulling hard. If it was my own helmet I would test it till it broke and then just sew on a new buckle. I also tested two skiing helmets and my Bonehead Guner yesterday and they all worked well under load. I agree it's not the best option and it may fail. Anyone who choses to install this type of method should test it under load with their buckle and not trust whatever is written on the internet.

I would go with the 725 spectre (what pdf calls 825 microline). I do find It curious that they call it 825 when the supplier sells it as 725 and the spool says right on it tensile strength at least 725 lbs. I have read, so it could be wrong, that they call it 825 because it's 725 coated or somehow treated line

I don't agree. Get some thing that works under load or a different helmet. But I respect you in any thing other you say. Hope you have a sense of humor...

And when you put tension on it? I'm quite sure it's the G3 that locks up if you put tension on the buckle before releasing it. Some buckles work but most don't.

You are not seriously promoting this idea? It's valentines day today, not april fools day.

............................................................................................ All curved pins need some slack ... Roughly double the length of the pin ... That is why many rigs have a small piece if Velcro on the top flap, to remind packers to leave a bit if slack in the bridle before it disappears inside the container. uhm, excuse my ignorance, i think that's the first time i've heard that? if i've let double the length of the bridle hang out on my vector it would only be a matter of time until it snagged on something and i'd be hanging on the tail of the plane and/or had a premie in freefall. that is with the from bottom to top method of routing the bridle. You don't have to have the bridle hanging outside the rig, just not let the bridle have 'tension'. If you don't have the slack, and have a tight rig and tight closing loop and tight container flaps and in the 'correct (incorrect) position' when you pull the pilotchute will pull on your flaps and the pin won't move. There is a few topics on pin-locks on watch the bridle http://www.watchthybridle.com/2013/10/pin-locks-in-detail/ and http://www.watchthybridle.com/2013/10/pinlocks/ and http://www.watchthybridle.com/2014/02/pin-orientation/

Now just add a few carabiners to the GoPro mount and you will be able to retrive the camera with your main

Never seen that happen because of 60->30 conversion but it has happened because of wrong other settings. What videoedit software do you use?

I have a .bat file that deletes the .thm and .lrv files. But I also built a "device" that can do the job when I'm not near a computer. I just plug in the SDcard and push a button and it deletes the correct files. It's annoying that you can't disable those files.

ProTune on if it's dark in my opinion. Some might say always on, but I don't think it makes much difference in normal daylight.

I use the mPOD from pgasus. http://www.pgasus.be/start.php?pg=text&item=mPOD My canopy is a BT pro 140 and the bag is sized for a ~150. Overstuffing is probably a bad idea. I'm also wondering what the problem with magnets are? If I remember correct, the bearded one did lots of research before placing magnets on the closing flaps. I believe there is a video of him explaining it. Also, the magnets are not close to your AAD. How do you pack? The AAD is placed at the bottom (closest to your back) in the reserve tray, and the magnets are placed at the top and down by the BOC in the main tray. The magnets are strong, but not that strong.

I have never had any issues in the air with the all magnetic bag I have. But packing it can be tricky in the begining with the magnets. But once you learn how to place the bag without is slamming shut while S-folding it's really simple to use. I like it so much I will probably never change to something else. Never packed wolmari on a skydive parachute, but used a similar method on my BASE canopy a few times with good result.