Here is a handy guide by the German equivalent of USHPA: https://www.dhv.de/fileadmin/user_upload/monatsordner/2004-06/Ausbildung/activ_flying_english_text.pdf
Keep in mind - I am not a PG instructor - just a guy that's most of the way there to his P4 (D license equivalent) and that has a D license and at one point had a coach rating. I know that I should not be teaching anyone active piloting. But I believe it is a useful application of first principles of canopy flight - especially for larger canopies. This is why I said "you should reach out to USHPA". I absolutely do not know everything there is to know. I can recommend some instructors for you if you want - they are much more qualified than me to discuss the topic.
Specifically a few instances - when you fly out of a thermal/rotor/turbulence and your wing surges, you should "check" the surge with some light braking. This one several friends and my wife have broken themselves over. Also - if you find yourself low and in a turn, don't release the turn, apply counter steering. This one is taught in canopy courses (at least it was in mine).
But the general gist is exactly that - keep the canopy overhead, square, stable, and in approximately in the same place over your head. That means you check your surges, release toggle pressure (or front riser... good luck with that on a skydiving wing though) on the drop backs to keep the wing in the place above your head it is happiest and producing valuable lift. And if you find yourself in a situation where you need to make emergency maneuvers, make sure to keep your wing flying and producing lift and not surging towards the ground in a turn.
With regards to rears in high winds - what is currently in the SIM sucks and I have the video from landing in high winds that picked up suddenly at Burning Man to prove it. I pulled one brake, my canopy literally did a 360 without touching the ground, locked itself into a line twist, and kept inflated while pulling me at a 30-45 degree angle. I was along for the ride with literally nothing I could do except watch my now locked-in brake line dangle in the wind when I realized I made a mistake and tried to release the pressure - and it did absolutely nothing. It took a few random passer-byes jumping on the thing for it to finally deflate. It just kept producing extra lift due to the toggle input and dragging me.
Later, I learned about rear risers and it all just clicked. What you want to do in high winds is stall your canopy. The reason is simple - a stalled canopy produces no lift and therefore only the fabric drags you. Additionally, stalled canopies fly backwards (something that absolutely needs to be added to the SIM as well - not just for high winds, but also for canopy collision avoidance), which in most scenarios means the canopy flies back into the ground, pinning it to the ground and reducing the surface area actually dragging you and promoting deflation and distortion.
In almost all modern canopies, a rear riser stall requires much less effort and range of motion than a toggle stall. This is why "trust your rears" is a joke on sofpidarf. You will accidentally walk into a rear riser stall with no warning - but in the case of collapsing a canopy in high winds - that's exactly what you want to achieve. I'm no swooper, but I have yet to jump a canopy that stalls at full brake deflection - and I've jumped most semi-ellipticals and am currently on a Pilot loaded at 1.4-1.5. That means if I pull a toggle to full deflection, it will only cause the canopy to produce more lift, dragging me more - and not collapse the thing.
Rear risers collapse canopies. With large modern canopies - it's much more dramatic of a difference.