Laszloimage

It's just like the MiniDV tapes for HDV. People bougth them for 3-4 times more money. I've been "warned" to if I want to have the HD quality I have to buy those "HD tapes". Also before putting tags onto HD TVs saying "Full HD" (what a term for 1080p) most of those displays had only 768 lines horizontal. So I asked the guy in the store how can I watch 1080i video on it. His answer was 1080 is interlaced so all I need is 540 lines to watch 1080 content. ...I was thinking these guys would convince the Snow Man the hot water is good for him. Best Buy also charges $150(!!!) to install an ati-virus software and make the updates. I sholuld start to run my own computer store, because actually people buying such a services without a blink.

The bootie is a "RW device". There's a few case when it could help, but most of the time it doesn't. The wings are the most for camera work (and flying skills of courese).

Full manual exposure setting! Take a few pictures on the ground with the subjects (jumpers) to get a an "idea". Use the manual setting what you liked the best during the skydive. Also use RAW so you'll be able to make corrections easier. -Laszlo-

Thank you Spot for the info! It is very helpful. ...well I guess I'll offer HD tandem video on BR at the up coming season in NY. Thanks again!

...I'm stupid, I forgot the other question. What software supports BR authoring these days? Is there any free up date availble? I have ULEAD DVD Workshop-2, Nero, Avid Express Pro HD (I prefer my ULEAD for DVDs...) What are you using for BR disc burning? Vegas8 ? ThankS!

Spot, I have another question about BluRay technologie. Is there any compatibilty issues at play back? Is there any major difference or advantage to write on one type of disc but not to the other (BR-R or BR-RE)??? We used to have this issues with regular DVD. The +R proved to be lot faster for finalizing (at least on the recorder decks)and also less play back issues. Or another example, now I burn my TM videos to RW so I don't even have to waste my time to finalize, but here and there cosumers compained about playback issues when it was written onto -RW. But never had any problem with the +RW. Is there any issues like that with BluRay, or it's more "standardized" right from the begening? Thanks for the info! -Laszlo-

I just made a quick pricing based on your description. So if it's printed up to 250,000 and if this Magazine comes out weekly, 1/3 page print size, includes the right to publish it on their web site as well, and if it's all for editorial purpose the price would be $435 according with GettyImages. -Laszlo-

Andy, I normally use http://www.gettyimages.com/Editorial/Editorial.aspx for pricing. when this page comes up type in to the search bar "skydiving" (if it's a skydiving image...). After that you can get pricing any of them based on lot of criterias (purpose of use, size of the print, amount of the prints, and etc...) I would select an image what is closest to yours... -Laszlo- PS. you might have to open an accoun there though, which isn't to hard.

Despite of the plastic body, the small size, and the "less professional" look of the 400D is just as capable as the 20D. Plus it gives you 2 more MP resolution too. Even the 350D is just as good as the 20D except some auto features. The 350D can take exactly the same qualty image as the 20D, matter the fact is the 350 has a newer improved image sensor compare to the 20D. ...and the 400D came after them even with more improvements. IMO there's no question my choice would be the 400D, even if you want use it for other than skydiving. -Laszlo-

...even my good old Sony VX2000 does progressive scan. (of course only SD) -Laszlo-

I prefer to have the still camera on the top by two reasons. The one is I have full access to all the controls and the display on the back, the other one is the better weight balance.

Check out the pictures of my FTP. The plate is home made. It the whole set up allows me to mount and change all kind of different gear quickly. In the images I have an HC30 video camera, but there's plenty of room for an HC7 combined with the 5D. Or even an extra 580 flash combined with the HC30 and the 5D (2x580EX plus HC30 plus 5D= dam heavy...) Anyway the whole idea is a costum (home) made top plate which is 9.5inches wide. http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=2623684#2623684 -Laszlo-

I have to agree about the "above the average" sodering skills. I modified a few of those remotes already (both the LANC and the D-link versions). The D-link (through the A/V port) can control the CX7. Top of that I wired the LED's externally as well, so it functions as a CamEye. -Laszlo-

100% agree.

I heard about those issues with the 300D... I abused mine so bad, bit the crap out of it and it still works. I never had that "freez up" or "error 99" issue. Also spot metering, AI servo, ansd etc. were enabeld with a firm ware. This was available on the internet for free and it was easy to upgrade the camera from the CF card. (basically the 300D was turned into a 10D except the burst mode...) ...for skydiving use (not for every day tandem though) hard to beat the 5D. Size, weight, resolution, full frame, low noise, color, easy use, and etc...

Yes, The D200/D300 are lot better. They don't have the "stickin' out too far" issue like the D70s and D80 I'm building bite switches with D200/D300 plugs as well. The unforunately I can't get those plugs with the threaded ring, but they still sit firmly when they're plugged in. The D70s/D80 camras are using a totally different plug (they're kinda look like a small USB). They're straight and sticking out a lot. Using those I would make sure your helemet is configured the way the plug can't get hit (it could damege the camera's connection, expensive repair...). -Laszlo- ps: please see my Nikon bite switch ad: http://www.dropzone.com/classifieds/images/ad_classifieds/1/47721-largest_Nikon_ad.jpg http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/detail_page.cgi?ID=58897;d=1

As Pilot Dave said it, it will continuously AF and measure light (AE) if the plug is Mono or the switch is misswired. The major disadvantege of it is your camera burns battery non stop. Also this "non stop focusing" called AI Servo only effective if the focus points are locked on the subject. In skydivng the camera can very easily think the subject is the Sun or the back ground. So it can fake the AF out and make everything worse. I use the AI servo mode with telefoto lenses for fast moving objects, but as I mentioned it only works if you can stay fixed on your subject. Normally I have to select only one focus point and look through the view finder. With wide angle lenses skydiving the AI servo just burns extra battery and actually can make things worse. The XTi can continuously focus as well, select AI servo mode.

Can Nikon take better pictures? Do you have a bunch of Nikon lenses already? Yes the D70s/D80 plug stick out far, no right angle plug available. Why to make it even more complicated than it is (like getting Nikon) It is your choice of course, but it will be more difficult to use it for jumping.

...so finally! I had a chance to sit down and work around this remote: http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665304384&tab=Features It plugs into the A/V port and contorls the camera just like any other LANC device. I took it apart and made the 5feet long cabel only a foot long, used part of the excess cable to connect two LED's externally, and installed a 2.5mm stereo jack. So now this remote functions just like a Cam Eye except it controls the camera through the A/V port (the kind with a "D" shaped plug). In addition a bite switch/togue switch can be plugged in (into the 2.5mm jack), which allows to utilize the still feature. Yes! Now it's possible to take stills with those HD cameras while they're recording even if its only 3 shots. The disadvantage is the remote it self is expensive ($50 plus shipping) and a pain in the ass (long hours, tiny parts) to make the modification. So on the end it cost about $110 to have one ready to jump. To make the whole remothe suitable for skydiving is very simple. Take it apart, soder in wires paralell with the built in LED's and the shutter release switch. Cut some plastic out from the original housing to make room for the jack inside. Make a desired lenght of cable with two LED's connected to one end(this one will be the "Cam Eye like" display on your camera sight...) and as I mentioned hook them up paralell with the built in ones. Please don't ask me for photos, blue prints, and more detailed technical description. Based on what I wrote down you should be able to make it. If this info is not enough for you, that means you don't have experince to work with electronics. So most likely you will brake it as soon as you attempt to make the modification. Everything is super small inside and very hard to work with, without any previous knowlege it's pretty much impossible. It controls the CX7 as well! I tested it already.(according SonyStyle's site the CX7 is not on the compatible cameras list) -Laszlo-

Spot, Did you have any chance to check the data transfer options between the memory stick and the tape? Can you transfer video back and forth between them? Thanks! -Laszlo- ps. I forgot to tell you... two days later it was my turn in the restaurant (a different one though) you know the forgotten food...

Spot, Thanks for the info! Can you transfer data back and forth between the memory stick and the tape? Thanks! -Laszlo-

Spot gave you the answer already... It takes some "tweaking around" in my softwares, plus some computer power (3.4GHz HT P4, 800Mhz FSB, 2GB RAM). Knowing what I'm doing it takes 4-5 minutes to create a 13MP HDR image. Whith in in this time I also have to determine certain settings otherwise it won't work. For a digital camera these days still impossible to process and figure out all those "tricks". But I can tell you now in few years they'll build image sensors and image processors which will way exceed the dynamic range of film and we'll have to do less HDR post processing. My best guess is they will come up with multiple exosure levels on the image sensore at the same time. Meaning that we'll able to set different ISO levels on any desired spot or section of the image sensor. So one image can have different exposure levels in a very same frame. For example you set ISO 50 in the upper 1/3 on the sensor where the sky is bright and ISO100 for the rest where everything elese is darker. (See the exaple shot) http://www.laszloimage.com/Aug_2007_NEW/pages/Aug_18th_07_MG_6502.htm In this shot I had to use HDR to make the sky more colorful insed of white. Using the imaginary sensor it would have been lot easier just set the upper 3rd of the image sensor to a lower ISO value... Nature photgraphers are using ND filters to create a same effect where one half the filter is darker than the other. I might start experimetig with it while I jumping. And of course we can consider an image HDR (High Dynamic Range) when we use a flash. see this example: http://www.laszloimage.com/Feb_2008_NEW/pages/Feb_3rd_08_MG_8674.htm The camera was set to get the sky dark blue. Also dark enought the sun just sits in the corner without blowing the image off. But to get the jumpers lit up properly (also they're wearing dark suits) I had to use two Canon 580EX flashes to get the necesarry power. ...So there's a few way to create HDR image. -Laszlo-

Thanks Drew!

It would be very hard to sync two or more cameras and take pictures at the same time, don't even mention the space and weigh on the helmet. Here's an example of HDR from a single RAW file. I took the image, then I converted two files (see A and B). A's exposure is 1 step bumped in the RAW before I converted with Canon's Digital photo Professional. B is turned all the way down (two whole steps) Then used HDR in my Ulead Photoimpact-10 setting 3 f-stop interval (image A is 1 up B is two down the difference is 3) The result is pretty good as it shown by te edited image. Normally I can bump up any photo 1 step up without generating too much noise (not even in the blacks) what I can easily fix later on with noise reduction. Of course it's even better if the original has too much bright but not blown out yet. Then I can just make one image as dark as possible from the original RAW beside the original shot. This way I don't even genertate extra grain (noise). I can aply HDR from one RAW file without any problem, I'm also doing it on the daily bases -Laszlo- ps. I made these example shots quick I didn't take my time to match the colors of the canopy and the jumpsuit. I just wanted to show the idea...

Very nice ones man!