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Everything posted by RayLosli

  1. Nice .. good solid machine to say the least, a good find on the old Jap Consew RB, and that (3-A ) designation , is a model I never seen/used . . Seiko was producing the old line Consew's way back then . The same body style RB as yours . I still have one of the last built Japan/'Seiko' ( 146 RB-1A ) That I bought (new old stock) way over 20 years back . my RB-1A is straight stitch , zigzag , walk foot, and it is a solid workhorse that I still get behind everyday . Me... Living the dream would be getting a old Seiko/Consew RB-1A 'Long-Arm' .....LOL ( I kind of half/ass guessing here ? ) . . So your model designation ( RB 3A ) ??? , So is that is a 'bottom feed' drop feed . and it is built factory Cam-disked in a 3-Step ZigZag ??? Your top choice of modification to add . probably good to search-out getting a ( Puller System ) if it a bottom-feed and you doing some long runs for seam work, for canvas, sail work ..etc. A puller will get you feeding better with way less presser foot pressure, less fiction/distortion and laying down Nice stitches, and also letting your machine moving at top speed on the longs runs . Also.. your Consew Zig-Zag . probable will span at least 10mm . or bigger . and .. So your Needle Bar length is set for using 135x17 needle length ? so THIS --> on my RB-1A and when used to tune-up for stitching proper on it's 'widest' zigzag . I never could get it perfect factory spec. and the Hook would always be tapping both ends of the Scarf, and Short of it's factory Max zigzag adjustment . I finally figured out that the length of Scarf's on all needles are not the same. even though they are listed and sold being same size . For the most part I really like buying the Groz-Beckert needles for all the machines and they top quality . but years back on a whim I bought a box of the Organ Brand , and then I quickly seen there factory Organ Scarf was cut much longer and I tore into it and re-tuned.. instantly the machine fell into Max width/span zigzag. Here old Pic. I took, you can see the Scarf difference, and Groz-bec. on top, and Organ on the bottom . both needles are 135x17 ( 21 ) .. (imho) Groz-beckert better quality, but your Consew needs a Long cut Scarf on the zigzag . - -
  2. Hey Jerry .. saw your Post with words -Shoobie and Parachutist Magazine in it, and could not resist... Here a blast from the past . Parachutist, November 1982 Pg #42 Shoobie and Bird Suit Add . .
  3. I always out taking look at machines . You not giving much info on the machine for judging a fair asking price . Are you original owner or buy it used . How old is the model ? How many years you own it ? what shape it in and what the setup actually looks like ? ...etc Also pictures are sometimes even hard to judge the true shape a machine is really in, as opposed to actually seeing and sitting behind and laying down some stitches with it . Pretty sure It is a import copy of a Singer zigzag model as the parent machine . So No Problems getting parts on that machine, so that a plus . 'nothing wrong' with imports and all machines are copy of one thing or another . BUT 'sometimes' there is different quality on some of the parts used by whoever is ordering that run from the manufacture . SO age of the model and what generation/revision of the model is good to know . So Probably ' off top of my head', I would say 50% of purchase price is good place to start . but that a educated guess . also consider in selling a machine Is there is an over abundance of import's out there and buying new Heads or complete table setup's these days is pretty economic . .
  4. Nice.. That is pretty sweet on that lightweight pulley wheel you 3-D printed . I do have a gear reduction pulley set-up on my heavier cylinder bed '214x needle' sewing cord-tread . It runs great and it just chugs along and the torque is pretty big . Thanks for posting that gear Pic. I never though of the inertia of the heavy steel pulley weight causing problems on Servo conversion with brake & needle position sensor . .
  5. Got it found . and this is the one I am trying for little more power on the 135x17 needle walker . It is a CSM on the Consew model # . The Consew largest for '110 volt' is the , ( CSM-3000 ) 1 HP, 750 watt , and it drawing a solid 6-Amps. for pushing power . It not bad on the pricing either, it comes-in at just @ 200-$ shipped w/ needle position sensor, on the Ebay / Paypal . There 750 Watt 1-hp was the 'only one' I saw that was drawing 6 Amp. on the power . And 6amp is the same draw as the big electric clutch motor it is replacing . 'All' the 550 watt servo drives advertised only draw 4-Amp for power . Even that (reliable corp. model ) that advertised 12 magnetic pick-up's on there servo, only draws 4-Amp. for power . I like the smaller 550 watt consew servo drives . So there bigger 1-HP model servo ought to do it . And If it turn's out to SUCK, then I can always put back on the old but reliable clutch motor . And then put that 1-hp servo on another machine in the shop . I am not going to mess with mine . but looks like for any heavy duty machine your going to be punching thread-cord like #277 or #346 then it looks like your really forced to move into larger servo drive . like a 1000 Watt Servo, single-phase 220-Volt, 1-1/2 or 1-1/3 HP . -
  6. Add to last Post: The Consew csm550 model servo motor comes with ( 75mm ) drive pulley from the factory. but, found there is available ( 50mm ) belt pulley on sale ( 18-$ ebay ) for them . also .. reading the buyer reviews from all, say that it (50mm) does control the slower rpm speed settings even better, with also adding little more torque on the bottom end of the 550 servo . same as on your old brush motors when gearing down with small pulley . .
  7. Thanks for the reply's and links . I will research more watts in power . I know there is a difference in power/torque given off of servo motors . Even though they might be same watt output . the number of magnetic pickup's and the size of magnets used, changes things much . I found this servo today researching . .. it is a 550 watt but they design with 12 pickup's rather than 9 used on most 550 watt like on the Consew 550 servo . But it also cost more than the 550 watt consew servos I use now .. but 200-$ is not out of the question if it is in fact better quality power . https://reliablecorporation.com/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor This machine runs great now and I also do have a very small pulley on it also . Maybe I should not dick around with it as it runs perfect for years, got the power and control never a problem . But the machine gets used daily and Just getting tired of the noise . The 'quietness' of using brushless servo really gets you spoiled and no vibration buzzing and smooth . No loud humming in my brain seems to give me less stress and more relaxing when sitting behind a machine for few hours at a time . .
  8. Anyone ( actually use or know ) model of servo motor that has little more power/torque that what I normally use now ? changing out motor on a heavier duty model walk-foot using ( 135 x 17 ) needle size that I use on heavier thicker nylon work . Right now I do use/have a couple digital servo motors ( consew 550 watt ) , and find them 'OK' for push behind the ( 135 x 5 Needle size ) . It just seems like that size 550 size servo, is NOT going to cut it moving up in machine size and punching thicker materials . .
  9. --- Did you ever get that R-angle binder set-up ? this Thread just popped into my head today . So I dug this backup that was posted a few months back to add couple things . Was Recommended you getting into Tennessee Attachment for there R-angle binder . because they are a good quality binder . but if you do go the TA route with them, Kind of left-out a little info that you might need if you already don't know . I NOT a shill for TA, or a only use one brand of binder guy . I have done some Great work with other soldered-up binders with 3/4 tape on nylon as well . Tenn. Attach. Binders are spendy-$$, and I left-out some info that kind of addresses why . There ( Tenn. Attachment ) Right-Angles Binders is more a 'parts system' that they have developed that all works together when binding . It is a few more things other than just a R-angle binder mounted on a right-side plate . Also, if you are getting with them for the very 1st time . It is not all that clear with talking on phone, or browsing on there web-site, All that is involved for getting a complete set-up of there design . If your doing a flat-bed machine, cylinder-bed machine, double-needle or a single -needle machine . There binding system uses a 'raised height' Feed-Dog w/ raised Throat-Plate (needle plate) . That is purchased along with the R-angle binder . And also a Presser-Foot already shaped/trimmed short & notched-out , ( if your not into doing that yourself using a Dremel, grinder & file . Raised Height in Feed dog / Throat plate . It is raised-up about another 3/16" or 1/8" which will bring a little closer on-level plain when feeding your material & Tape through the binders throat and though/accross the feed dogs . Also more level plain between the two, helps you get the nose of your Binder even more close into the presser-foot and needles for smoother turning on the radius binding . .
  10. Ahhh ..nice model of Juki . that should be a great setup when you get it all rolling . That is pretty sweet on your order also, having them work the mounting positioning height & angle & distance from throat to the needles out for you and getting it all matched up on the side plate for your Juki model . hopefully it will be just tits when you get it and will give you no headaches . I have had to work out a few bugs in the past if it not positioned just right . The L-edge of the feed-dog will tap edge of the binder setup on dog up-stroke . then also when pushing materials in firmly up against the push-plate/bumper guide on the the binder ( if to tight to needle ) and it will give just enough needle deflection on the R-side needle that It can get you the occasional dropping of a stitch . It can be a balancing act to get everything just right and smooth with the small 3/16 gauge setup . .
  11. another Plus 1 .. on Tenn. Attachment . I have a couple of there Right-angles . to the OP . I know they seem expensive running 300-$ to 400-$ . But 'buy once.. cry once' . It's about quality of work your giving yourself or to a customer your sewing for . And you have to think of the miles of tape that you will be run threw it over the years of use . They will last you a good while till you wear the Throat out . The Tape tracks well threw there setups . . Also they will 'throat' the R-angle binder to your personal needs for material and application . They used to have one guy ( Junior ) just doing the R-Angle set-up's for years there . He was a artist with the silver solder . But he out sick and might not ever be back . I think ? (curtis) is doing the R-angles now . but anyone there at Tenn. attach. is easy to work with . Just Do It ... : ) . you wont be sorry for it . - edit Add: for reference, The tenn. attach. is item # ( 423-b ) . . R-angle/ swing ) 3/4" tape set-up your looking for is going to run you ( 315-$ ) total with shipping . unless you are going to want them to provide the notched presser-foot and side-plate with mounting . Then it little more cost . Your Needle-Feed Juki LH is a little cheaper on cost for Binder than Jerry's set-up is . His ( i think ?) Consew double-needle, is a walk-foot binder set-up and i think walk-foots are little more cost on the binder . .
  12. - Now that looks like the same thing I was shown by my repair tech. friend . But what he showed me, they were 'complete' with the needle-bars all in one unit . 'also' I never asked the exact double needle machine models that they were available for either . I will have to get a hold of him and get the factory name and the better details of what offered models for the complete needle-bar attached conversion .
  13. I considered getting the factory model with split needle lift . But this thing is most likely just going to sit and work as seam-bind set-up only, till it dies . Also for non-factory . There is a aftermarket split-needle set-up that you can just throw on about any double needle machine. A repair guy I know showed it to me couple months back and it is a pretty slick and simple design . he had a few of them in his car . Comes with push bar/rod and you manually just flip either needle of your choice up . .
  14. probably just back of the disk that the ( push-pin ) pushes against. it gets bent in over years of work . or the push-pin is just worn out and short . Also just peak inside and look at the assembly that pushes on the pin back behind it . (imho).. I would not even dickaround with the old original tension assembly . it pretty universal, plentiful and cheep part . Replace it if it is old and worn out . It SO Much more easy just to get a whole new thread tension assembly of ebay or amazon . There easy under 30-$ and just put new pin, disks & spring new again Pop it on there yourself, it's only an hour of your life and it back to new again and yu can depend on it working . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thread-Tension-Bracket-Complete-248217-For-Singer-112W-212W-212G-Machines-/401030891838 .
  15. Hey Lee I did pickup one of the ( Juki . LH-3528A ) , to set-up for seam-bind . I dropped the new 3/16 gauge set and trimmed down the presser foot with attachment and got it rolling and moved into it's station . I did throw-in new Hook and bobbin assembly into my 212w and 112w this Fall and couple other parts got both them tuned & running strong . But I am pretty sick of wrenching on old Singers double needles . Time to move the Singers into the roll of backup machines in-case of breakdowns, so I can just keep rolling and not get behind on orders . I am also going to pickup one more new strait stitch Juki or Consew machine in the new year also, and sell a couple of my used machines . OK.. the ( Juki . LH-3528A ) is pretty smooth and solid (Needle Feed) machine and soon as you sit behind it and start looking over . You quickly see pretty quick it's parent machine for design is the Singer's 212 design . and It looks to shares a lot of the Singer parts also like Needle gauge sets, needle plates, feed dogs, bobbins, side cover plates etc. Juki's modern design spin on the 212 is pretty good also . With the LH-3528A, you have to move into a auto-oil set-up, but you don't have to fill and use the wet Pan if you don't want . You can just circulate and move/cycle the oil with just the machines Head internal reservoir . So far no regrets on this Juki model set-up permanently for seam-bind . I did not put a clutch electric motor on this one either. I ordered with a electronic drive motor with rpm selection, so it's pretty smooth and quiet . .
  16. HHAHAHAHAH LOL ( I am really laughing ) Man that is funny. now (blow-up) the pic. in size and take a look at that Expression on his Face. PRICELESS ! ... From the G0-Fast Vid. that was Posted that I saw This must have been 'edited', LOL Shit happens even to the best of them. Still takes a lot to get a event closed early. Don't really care who it was but mail me or PM me what the dirty deed was ? .
  17. mccordia: I agree, Nick is perfectly capable of standing and defending. I am not defending what NickDJ Posted in my Post. I think you are mis-reading me. Saber210: Like I said, I am not in defense of Nicks Post. He is wrong. I have attended Go-Fast events. I like them as Organizers. I think they do an excellent job. The Vid. that mccordia Posted was most excellent in it's show of just how professional and in control that the sponsored jumpers are. From what I saw in it. The BASE jumps made by sponsored jumpers were spot-on. No sick stuff just hand-held exits with good Headings and right to the LZ. Just 'THE WAY' you are suppose do perform at a public event to make your Organizer look it's best and to help build more BASE events. I have only attended a couple of go-fast royal gorge events but it's the same at any other organised event like bridge days, the older IPBC events, four kl tower/petronas towers. Heliboogie, turkey days, and whatever. The DickHead that got This go-fast event shut down prematurely that people were talking about I don't know about the details but you usually really got to show your Ass for that to make happen at a BASE event. Anyway I am not defending Nicks mindless blurt out. Just in taking it to a new level as moving it to a new Thread. Tom: I totally understand the reasoning that you say. I just think taking Nicks post and then letting it stand out there in heading of a new Thread topic is just a magnet for what you personally don't want. One second it is in an ongoing discussion. Nick blurts out an off-the-wall rant. You see it, move it, then it just gets get more moderating/editing. It just bugs me when Threads are altered and split-up. I can read and listen to several different written conversations with a few insults thrown-in, all in the same Thread topic. Name calling does not really bother me but sometimes I think 'You' take name calling more personal than the person getting called the names does. It's like Mother and Moderator. They are two different titles but both are important. Neither get the recognition they deserve. I just feel Mother has nothing to do with Moderator. .
  18. HA hahah LOL, Sometimes I miss you. ... .
  19. Ok, I will bite on this one. Did you expect different ? You did not think ? that to single out NickDG's Post would bring out others in opinions aggressive in manor in rebuttal ? While possibly leaving Nick in defense also. You did not think that grafting a persons Posted opinion from a discussion in a Thread. To Headline your designer Thread. Was going to inflame emotional outbursts of opinions from others as they attempt to build the Thread that 'You started' from that single opinionated Post ? There is no moderators book of rules to follow but you chose to Split and pull out the Post that NickDG did. Then single it out, to stand alone for public display for all to Post there attitudes of opinion on a titled Thread of, 'Publicity Discussion'. Then when public discussion and Posts with opinion appear that is not to 'your personal flavor'. You seek to discipline, edit and mold the building structure of the Threads when things seem to get a little unruly. -
  20. Tell him I said ..."Hi", back to him when you talk next. I know words have been scarce but he is in my thoughts. Will use the given address and send some post cards. .
  21. Fuck this argument and this Split Thread. Hasn't this already been hashed out to death in the past on this bullshit forum ? I thought that it was decided that. If you DON'T want to be on the 'Dead BASE jumpers List'. Then don't DIE BASE jumping. or Don't take up BASE jumping. It also does not matter what anybody wants. It's a free country and it's Internet Info. That is put up by a person who has a right to post that info anytime and in any manor that person deems presentable. Also the BASE DEATH LIST is JUMP INFO. and can also be interpreted as the WHY & HOW or reflect patters of fault and errors made. That is knowledge possibly learned and then not repeated. So no one has to like or dislike the ( World BASE Fatality List ) . Just live with it. or Die on it. .
  22. AWwww come on, You know you want to go. If you go, I will go. We can take turns Goin-In. You go first. .
  23. Not to cut in on Toms question but the exit that Ronald talks about is ideal for a single front rotation and then stopping it. stretching out then at the apex, snapping into the Pike. but For more than one front rotation. You really got to snap a hard pike in the beginning. All the force has to come from the abdomen and you are in the same boat for a better exit with trying to get a 'little chance' clearance. Not putting the adequate amount of force in the beginning of a double or triple front rotation will usually lead to a stall. Staling really Sucks. Then you got to flail to recover and get stable. also, Back and Front rotations are two different animals with slider-down. Fronts are real hard on your body. It will snap you hard on the best of them and them it will snap you enough to see stars and disorientation. Backs with no-slider opening is not even on the same scale or force in comparison. If You pitch the PC when the legs are on top and coming threw the rotation. And this is proper for a 1-rotation and a slider-up jump. It can really snap the body. If you do a front rotation and then stop it to get flat and square to pull it might not be to bad but then you might also be taking a deeper delay than you want also. .
  24. Kinda hard to tell if he was totally on his back on the pitch. You can definitely see he was FUCKED and he new it. At least he had the sense to get the PC out before he plowed the talus. I still can not believe he tried to do that shit on that rock. It looks like he took at least an 8-step run and then did a double foot plant to exit. fuck every time I watch it makes me cringe. Absolutely NO attempt to make clearance from the cliff. He just plants both feet jumps to pike and to a steep head-down. The more I watch it. My brain say's . "he is DEEP". good thing he got something out. .
  25. I feel for him. Anybody know the location and Date of jump in the vid. ? I hate being a arm-chair quarterback but WOW, that cliff was (looks) "Really Under Hung" down deep and the jumper had little to no effort to make ay fucking clearance. He just fucking Nose-Dived off after the first step off on the launch. Looks to me that he had about 4 sec.delay before the PC pitch with slider-up. ( Anybody Notice ) He was Nose into that fucker on the 180 inflation ?. That kind of object is NO PLACE to a aerial anyway WTF was he thinking ? The cliff looks under hung bad if you go deep at all on the delay. No place to have a 180 if your a low puller. .