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  1. That pic. of 8-point stitch on that Lateral to Main Lift junction you using for an example, is not going to break on any deep No slider deployments, it stronger than the forces your body can ever take . No matter what way you do it . Your Lateral webbing coming out to connect to Main Lift to leg-strap area . If doing a BASE container just try to keep that open bottom area of Tray and the Lateral webbing coming out to minimum . That inside corner area that I pointing to . Is covered by a Lateral Cover, Also the 'splayed' Lat. webbing in the one Pic. in previous Post , It also helps get rid of the Potential Bridal Snag of open area . The Lat. cover that is in PIc. is really simple, and just cut the bottom angle of it, to meet down there to the Container Tray corner area . - -
  2. Don't know if he looking for extra drug-$$ . But Agree, 'Really' does throw-up red-flag when it's a , 1st Post, Overpriced, shittyShape, abused looking machine Head all by itself, set in a bad blurry Pic. ...LOL . But OP was brutally honest is stating .." does Not know Much about sew machines " --- Is definitely one machine that will always be keeping around . I will browse craigslist here in my AO couple times a week for catching a good deal on different used/new machines, and I have actually scored a couple over last few years . The clean running old Swiss Bernina/217's on a clean motor table, still gets around the 1-k price range. The old Swiss Bernina 217's were a real well made, balanced smooth running and a great Light/medium straight-zigzag-stitch, and accepting Cam readers also . (imho) ,One of the best sewing Bottom-Feeds made . It was such a well made, that was put under the brand label Chandler, Durkopp, and newer clone variants by Global Industrial . I even seen a nice clean 36" longarm global/217 model in the craiglist for sale last year . .
  3. This is not the For Sale Forum ... but I will give you a solid polite opinion on your 217 machine Head you are selling . ( looking at your Pic. ) and having owned 2, 217's and still have one set-up in shop and use regular . No Way you will get 500-$ for that old Head even if was set-up on a complete table Quick observation from your blurry photo. At Best, in the bad shape it's in, the buyer is receiving a machine ( for parts only ) sale . It does Not run/sew even if set-up on a table w/motor, is Rusty, Missing parts, and broken reverse lever . . .
  4. Nice .. good solid machine to say the least, a good find on the old Jap Consew RB, and that (3-A ) designation , is a model I never seen/used . . Seiko was producing the old line Consew's way back then . The same body style RB as yours . I still have one of the last built Japan/'Seiko' ( 146 RB-1A ) That I bought (new old stock) way over 20 years back . my RB-1A is straight stitch , zigzag , walk foot, and it is a solid workhorse that I still get behind everyday . Me... Living the dream would be getting a old Seiko/Consew RB-1A 'Long-Arm' .....LOL ( I kind of half/ass guessing here ? ) . . So your model designation ( RB 3A ) ??? , So is that is a 'bottom feed' drop feed . and it is built factory Cam-disked in a 3-Step ZigZag ??? Your top choice of modification to add . probably good to search-out getting a ( Puller System ) if it a bottom-feed and you doing some long runs for seam work, for canvas, sail work ..etc. A puller will get you feeding better with way less presser foot pressure, less fiction/distortion and laying down Nice stitches, and also letting your machine moving at top speed on the longs runs . Also.. your Consew Zig-Zag . probable will span at least 10mm . or bigger . and .. So your Needle Bar length is set for using 135x17 needle length ? so THIS --> on my RB-1A and when used to tune-up for stitching proper on it's 'widest' zigzag . I never could get it perfect factory spec. and the Hook would always be tapping both ends of the Scarf, and Short of it's factory Max zigzag adjustment . I finally figured out that the length of Scarf's on all needles are not the same. even though they are listed and sold being same size . For the most part I really like buying the Groz-Beckert needles for all the machines and they top quality . but years back on a whim I bought a box of the Organ Brand , and then I quickly seen there factory Organ Scarf was cut much longer and I tore into it and re-tuned.. instantly the machine fell into Max width/span zigzag. Here old Pic. I took, you can see the Scarf difference, and Groz-bec. on top, and Organ on the bottom . both needles are 135x17 ( 21 ) .. (imho) Groz-beckert better quality, but your Consew needs a Long cut Scarf on the zigzag . - -
  5. Hey Jerry .. saw your Post with words -Shoobie and Parachutist Magazine in it, and could not resist... Here a blast from the past . Parachutist, November 1982 Pg #42 Shoobie and Bird Suit Add . .
  6. I always out taking look at machines . You not giving much info on the machine for judging a fair asking price . Are you original owner or buy it used . How old is the model ? How many years you own it ? what shape it in and what the setup actually looks like ? ...etc Also pictures are sometimes even hard to judge the true shape a machine is really in, as opposed to actually seeing and sitting behind and laying down some stitches with it . Pretty sure It is a import copy of a Singer zigzag model as the parent machine . So No Problems getting parts on that machine, so that a plus . 'nothing wrong' with imports and all machines are copy of one thing or another . BUT 'sometimes' there is different quality on some of the parts used by whoever is ordering that run from the manufacture . SO age of the model and what generation/revision of the model is good to know . So Probably ' off top of my head', I would say 50% of purchase price is good place to start . but that a educated guess . also consider in selling a machine Is there is an over abundance of import's out there and buying new Heads or complete table setup's these days is pretty economic . .
  7. Nice.. That is pretty sweet on that lightweight pulley wheel you 3-D printed . I do have a gear reduction pulley set-up on my heavier cylinder bed '214x needle' sewing cord-tread . It runs great and it just chugs along and the torque is pretty big . Thanks for posting that gear Pic. I never though of the inertia of the heavy steel pulley weight causing problems on Servo conversion with brake & needle position sensor . .
  8. Got it found . and this is the one I am trying for little more power on the 135x17 needle walker . It is a CSM on the Consew model # . The Consew largest for '110 volt' is the , ( CSM-3000 ) 1 HP, 750 watt , and it drawing a solid 6-Amps. for pushing power . It not bad on the pricing either, it comes-in at just @ 200-$ shipped w/ needle position sensor, on the Ebay / Paypal . There 750 Watt 1-hp was the 'only one' I saw that was drawing 6 Amp. on the power . And 6amp is the same draw as the big electric clutch motor it is replacing . 'All' the 550 watt servo drives advertised only draw 4-Amp for power . Even that (reliable corp. model ) that advertised 12 magnetic pick-up's on there servo, only draws 4-Amp. for power . I like the smaller 550 watt consew servo drives . So there bigger 1-HP model servo ought to do it . And If it turn's out to SUCK, then I can always put back on the old but reliable clutch motor . And then put that 1-hp servo on another machine in the shop . I am not going to mess with mine . but looks like for any heavy duty machine your going to be punching thread-cord like #277 or #346 then it looks like your really forced to move into larger servo drive . like a 1000 Watt Servo, single-phase 220-Volt, 1-1/2 or 1-1/3 HP . -
  9. Add to last Post: The Consew csm550 model servo motor comes with ( 75mm ) drive pulley from the factory. but, found there is available ( 50mm ) belt pulley on sale ( 18-$ ebay ) for them . also .. reading the buyer reviews from all, say that it (50mm) does control the slower rpm speed settings even better, with also adding little more torque on the bottom end of the 550 servo . same as on your old brush motors when gearing down with small pulley . .
  10. Thanks for the reply's and links . I will research more watts in power . I know there is a difference in power/torque given off of servo motors . Even though they might be same watt output . the number of magnetic pickup's and the size of magnets used, changes things much . I found this servo today researching . .. it is a 550 watt but they design with 12 pickup's rather than 9 used on most 550 watt like on the Consew 550 servo . But it also cost more than the 550 watt consew servos I use now .. but 200-$ is not out of the question if it is in fact better quality power . https://reliablecorporation.com/products/sewquiet-6000sm-servomotor This machine runs great now and I also do have a very small pulley on it also . Maybe I should not dick around with it as it runs perfect for years, got the power and control never a problem . But the machine gets used daily and Just getting tired of the noise . The 'quietness' of using brushless servo really gets you spoiled and no vibration buzzing and smooth . No loud humming in my brain seems to give me less stress and more relaxing when sitting behind a machine for few hours at a time . .
  11. Anyone ( actually use or know ) model of servo motor that has little more power/torque that what I normally use now ? changing out motor on a heavier duty model walk-foot using ( 135 x 17 ) needle size that I use on heavier thicker nylon work . Right now I do use/have a couple digital servo motors ( consew 550 watt ) , and find them 'OK' for push behind the ( 135 x 5 Needle size ) . It just seems like that size 550 size servo, is NOT going to cut it moving up in machine size and punching thicker materials . .
  12. --- Did you ever get that R-angle binder set-up ? this Thread just popped into my head today . So I dug this backup that was posted a few months back to add couple things . Was Recommended you getting into Tennessee Attachment for there R-angle binder . because they are a good quality binder . but if you do go the TA route with them, Kind of left-out a little info that you might need if you already don't know . I NOT a shill for TA, or a only use one brand of binder guy . I have done some Great work with other soldered-up binders with 3/4 tape on nylon as well . Tenn. Attach. Binders are spendy-$$, and I left-out some info that kind of addresses why . There ( Tenn. Attachment ) Right-Angles Binders is more a 'parts system' that they have developed that all works together when binding . It is a few more things other than just a R-angle binder mounted on a right-side plate . Also, if you are getting with them for the very 1st time . It is not all that clear with talking on phone, or browsing on there web-site, All that is involved for getting a complete set-up of there design . If your doing a flat-bed machine, cylinder-bed machine, double-needle or a single -needle machine . There binding system uses a 'raised height' Feed-Dog w/ raised Throat-Plate (needle plate) . That is purchased along with the R-angle binder . And also a Presser-Foot already shaped/trimmed short & notched-out , ( if your not into doing that yourself using a Dremel, grinder & file . Raised Height in Feed dog / Throat plate . It is raised-up about another 3/16" or 1/8" which will bring a little closer on-level plain when feeding your material & Tape through the binders throat and though/accross the feed dogs . Also more level plain between the two, helps you get the nose of your Binder even more close into the presser-foot and needles for smoother turning on the radius binding . .
  13. Ahhh ..nice model of Juki . that should be a great setup when you get it all rolling . That is pretty sweet on your order also, having them work the mounting positioning height & angle & distance from throat to the needles out for you and getting it all matched up on the side plate for your Juki model . hopefully it will be just tits when you get it and will give you no headaches . I have had to work out a few bugs in the past if it not positioned just right . The L-edge of the feed-dog will tap edge of the binder setup on dog up-stroke . then also when pushing materials in firmly up against the push-plate/bumper guide on the the binder ( if to tight to needle ) and it will give just enough needle deflection on the R-side needle that It can get you the occasional dropping of a stitch . It can be a balancing act to get everything just right and smooth with the small 3/16 gauge setup . .
  14. another Plus 1 .. on Tenn. Attachment . I have a couple of there Right-angles . to the OP . I know they seem expensive running 300-$ to 400-$ . But 'buy once.. cry once' . It's about quality of work your giving yourself or to a customer your sewing for . And you have to think of the miles of tape that you will be run threw it over the years of use . They will last you a good while till you wear the Throat out . The Tape tracks well threw there setups . . Also they will 'throat' the R-angle binder to your personal needs for material and application . They used to have one guy ( Junior ) just doing the R-Angle set-up's for years there . He was a artist with the silver solder . But he out sick and might not ever be back . I think ? (curtis) is doing the R-angles now . but anyone there at Tenn. attach. is easy to work with . Just Do It ... : ) . you wont be sorry for it . - edit Add: for reference, The tenn. attach. is item # ( 423-b ) . . R-angle/ swing ) 3/4" tape set-up your looking for is going to run you ( 315-$ ) total with shipping . unless you are going to want them to provide the notched presser-foot and side-plate with mounting . Then it little more cost . Your Needle-Feed Juki LH is a little cheaper on cost for Binder than Jerry's set-up is . His ( i think ?) Consew double-needle, is a walk-foot binder set-up and i think walk-foots are little more cost on the binder . .
  15. - Now that looks like the same thing I was shown by my repair tech. friend . But what he showed me, they were 'complete' with the needle-bars all in one unit . 'also' I never asked the exact double needle machine models that they were available for either . I will have to get a hold of him and get the factory name and the better details of what offered models for the complete needle-bar attached conversion .