RayLosli

You say ..."Upgrading your machine ." .. what are you upgrading from ? The ' JACK' branded label name. ( the way I interpret ) , is that their biggest customer base is Europe,and even Australia. not N. America market. The 'jack' link you give in your Post, gets redirected straight to Highlead branding label and their 441 clone/import. --- OK . I read your Post, like you looking to purchase a 'new' decent Juki 441/import clone, 794/dyx3 Needle, 441shuttle/bobbin assembly system machine ? . These days there are several nice well made 441 imports being put-out in different brand name labels. In your user name info. Your location is Tahoe NV. .. ( my advice ) the 1st thing that hits me is.. You are 'really close' to the CA. San.Fran.bay area . Artisan Sew over in San Bruno, CA has a pretty good 16" 441 clone/Import they spec.out and brand their name to . Artisan sew has a ( Mdl 4000 ). They been around for longtime and does a decent job with machines and customer service. Their prices are pretty good also because they have their machine order shipments come-in directly into Port of Entry right there to help hold their prices down. Also, you not that far away, so the cost of shipping of a machine on a pallet from Artisan/bay area CA. to Tahoe NV. the cost won't be bad at all . If you ship straight into a trucking hub in Tahoe. Then just pick it up the pallet yourself from the Hub . Avoid doing that delivery bullshit to home/residence because that just doubles the cost . .

( will Not fit 441 ) . I have that same swing-drop-down edge guide on my juki 1541 . That drop edge guild in your link is not going on the 441, it way to small/short, for the big head clearance of juki 441. The 'standard ' edge guide for the 441 is just a T-bar mounting bracket attached on the cylinder bed close in by needle plate. looks like this, in pic. - - The Only drop-Swing-down edge that I have even seen offered for fitting a 441 or 441 clone is offered by ( Toledo Industrial sew ) in Ohio, for their Mdl.4500 /441 clone . Drop down adjustable roller edge guide (Adler style) 441/4500 drop-down edge https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb-acc-pack.html -

Was it sewing before, you put your hands on it, and set it up at your place ? Have you checked the basics ? like ... Did you properly route Top Thread ? Are you using correct needle size . Needles scarf and thread channel are pointed correct direction to Hook . to much Distance away from the scarf, when hook passes by it . Hook will not pickup and also skip stitches . also look at the Needle scarfs timing, ( to high or Low ) when the Hook passes by . Also your machine is pretty small, i assuming you using text70/#69 thread . Your Needle hole size 'preferably' should be #18, and #16 smallest. ' Take-up Lever ' Check thread routing . And This--> Look to see that 'on the needle plunge' and bottoms-out as Hook passes by . there is a creation of a small Loop with the thread, so the Hook can pickup . The machines 'Take-up Lever' serves a purpose. it is timed to be down, on the needles plunge thew material leaving slack for the thread loops creation . So the hook passes into the Loop for pick-up. The Lever then goes on the upstroke to then resume the proper thread tension again. .

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Ya, I think you going to be getting into at least 1-k-$ new for those Sailrite portables now . It's the option of self contained/portability you paying for, personally I don't see the attraction, unless you actually live on a sailboat, or on the move, or just lack the space for a industrial table . For same or a couple hundred more you could get yourself into a nice clean used, heavier, more powerful industrial unison-feed model machine like consew or juki. I actually have a Sailrite sitting here in the sew room right now, owner dropped it off for a few months because he off traveling doing tandems . I checked it out a couple times out of curiosity . it is the Sailrite straight/zigzag stitch with the large oversized hand-wheel for more punch-torque . It has it's oddities with it's design, but overall Sailrite portable seems to be a pretty solid machine for it's size, and lays down a nice stitch. The old Singer blue 20U are a straight-stitch/Zigzag . lots of them were produced and all over the place. Other model also ( 20U33 ) straight/zigzag stitch, that also was mass produced . Both are just a bottom-feeds, and light industrial that you should be able to get into cheep . I not sure about the exact difference between them as they both look pretty similar to each other. .

The Sailrite is a cool design, it looks like a Consew 146RB1a and a Bernina 217 had a Baby ...LOL . If it just has to be a Portable, for a ZigZag option ? , Then get a Sailrite like Riggerrob suggested . It a little smaller, with 7"on the work area than the standard 10" industrial, but totally makes up for it on their whole self-contained portable package design. It's a combo straight-stitch/zigzag . It's feed is walk foot, strong puncher for it's size, and probably the portable sew with most needle punch power sold . The old pfaff 230's are around for a lot less-$ than Sailrite, and good for a lightweight fabric stitcher . If not need portable package, maybe look for a old Singer 20U zigzag, singer made a million of them, I see them around for sale on the Craigslist here once in while, and always pretty cheep-$ . Also look for the old Singer 143w strait-stitch/zigzag. I used to have one of those and they are old but 'strong' built model. . .

Go to this Link for downloadable manuals .This link goes to a DB-170 , but if you go on Left-side of the page, it list all the different DB Mitsu. models . ( I might be wrong ? ) I don't think it an old juki/mitsu. head. .The DB170 looks pretty close to the pic's above, but like I said, they made a lot of different bottom feed single-needles in that older casting head style . So if you search the models listed you might see Manual you looking for . https://manualmachine.com/mitsubishi/db170/8322687-manual/ .

I think, it pretty common found machine found.everywhere. ( Just guessing for a Mitsu. model # ) , as pic's above are not detail/great for ID . the 'Omega Emblem' .. is just that particular dealers 'brand label' , put to what looks like a older Mitsubishi DB# model . There is a ShitLoad of different DB model #'s produced over many years . with 'bottom feed' , with common high-shank presser foot, and all the DB models were made in HUGE industrial volume, pretty common easy found, economical parts, big selection, with the presser feet, needle plates, feed dogs ..etc. . That is a real common cast body, and I would also guess that if you tilt machine back and look at underside there in front. you would find the Mitsubishi factory Emblem ( 3 diamond ) stamped in the cast. Good sewing machines, that you can easy setup to do a lot of different jobs. I still keep an older DB-170 in my stable, and use it all the time . common found parts 'easy' setup for real lightweight, or setup for doing heavier weight fabric materials also. .

Of course it would have been more economical and faster just to subcontract a stunt crew to do the jump. but I give Hats Off to Cruise for taking the time and expense to do his own jump. It really shows he has pride in his work and believes in what he is doing. It's smart business, 100% adds quality to the product he is selling, and doing it himself, he gets the Ego stroke for a job well done . He demands quality for his Fan base with profit return. It really showed bigtime few years back when Cruise took all the time and money also in doing 'top gun Maverick' with all the elaborate cockpit Imax camera setup for flight effect and flight time for Imax theater release, instead of going CGI . . .

your 1st post, and a 2016 resurrection . Craigslist is good for used machine deals, and if you browse regular you will eventually find something used or new . in your Area . I don't know how many hits you get in 'craiglist France' ? when you type-in search ( Sew Machine ) , but right at this moment in my Area, If I type 'sew machine' in Craigslist I get 326 listings . Most people posting here in the Gear and Rigging are searching machine info for medium and heavy industrial machines, for heavy nylons, cordura, webbing, binding.. etc. You say you mostly sewing fleece . You probably not asking about machine for sewing natural lamb/sheep fleece leather hide ? . If you are sewing lightweight garment Poly fleece , as you don't need a lot of thread tension, presser foot tension, and heavy needle/thread weight for fleece. You can buy a lightweight garment single-needle lock-stitch machine and chain-stitch Serger , if your seams are all inside a garment . .

I was out to Ralph's DZ about 3 months back to bullshit and have cup coffee . He still there, I talked to him couple times this morning on the phone to . He still putting some fun jump loads in the air, and doing a few tandems, and selling/buying gear. He been at it to long, Ralph will never quit till he's dead. . . .

That cool . 1st BASE jump -1st BASE container build, same time . My 1st two container looked No where near refined finish as the containers ' Quagmirian ' built for his 1st jump. I built 2 containers at same time, but I had a years worth of jumps down before I did it . But I still remember, was pretty nervous on the exits ...LOL . took one container FF jump off a bridge, and then same day did PC assist exit with the other container off 150' 4-guywire antenna . After that, I jumped my own home built gear, Containers , supporting gear PC's and Risers-toggles, for years after that . .

What RiggerLee say's ... it what ? .. at minimum an old 40+ year old Consew , with an old timing belt, Old hook/bobbin assembly , old clutch drive , small bobbin , No reverse . if it was 'real' clean and clean table, Running smooth and lays down a nice stitch . .. in the year 2022 .. 'Maybe' 500-$ would be the top price . .

Man those are looking Good . They look real solid just looking at the Pic's. Nice stitching and finish work to, container and tray just open nice and clean for a good extraction . It's a nice feeling to pattern/cut/sew-up your 1st Rig, then pack it up, take it out and put a jump on it . You will always remember that. .

That pic. of 8-point stitch on that Lateral to Main Lift junction you using for an example, is not going to break on any deep No slider deployments, it stronger than the forces your body can ever take . No matter what way you do it . Your Lateral webbing coming out to connect to Main Lift to leg-strap area . If doing a BASE container just try to keep that open bottom area of Tray and the Lateral webbing coming out to minimum . That inside corner area that I pointing to . Is covered by a Lateral Cover, Also the 'splayed' Lat. webbing in the one Pic. in previous Post , It also helps get rid of the Potential Bridal Snag of open area . The Lat. cover that is in PIc. is really simple, and just cut the bottom angle of it, to meet down there to the Container Tray corner area . - -