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Fast1

my new helmet...arrived!

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Yeah...my new camera helmet is finally arrived! I've already mounted the box and regulated it with the camera. I've also added a cameyeII.

Saturday...comes the test! My first jump with a camera...

See Ya;)
Andrea "Fast" Scaramuzza
http://www.fastsky.org

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I have my new Camera helmet ready to rock as well....
I was going to go for an Optic Illusion....but in the end decided that I think it would be safer with a box that surrounds the camera and is moulded close to the main body of the helmet.
Hence the 2K composites FF2
(plus it has an ace cutaway system ;))

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Your camera box looks like you mounted it higher than it needs to be. The box should be even with the flat portion of the helmet as much as possible. Right now it looks a potential snag waiting to happen.
"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

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it's the lowest position I found. Fixing it lower you have problem with the box top closing screws that doesn't permit at the box to stay close to the helmet... and behind remain out of the helmet border. I thought it too...I prefer a lowest position without box overpassing the surface but.... box side isn't a plane surface..
Andrea "Fast" Scaramuzza
http://www.fastsky.org

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Oooh... I agree with you... that's looking rather disturbing. Seeing set-ups like those makes us appreciate our RAWA's, doesn't it?

Best bet would be moving it like you suggested, or using a lot of Gaffer's tape to fill in the gaps & round things out a bit more.

--Jairo
Low Profile, snag free helmet mount for your Sony X3000 action cam!

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it's an original bonehead box.... and the camera is a small sony pc-106e....

Problem is that, imho, box is not very well projected... I mean that there is a different tickness problem of the box's parts..

Take a look at the attachment... the metal part (the hinge) is applied over the carbon fiber of the box... That creates a difference of tickness and if you try to mount the box without have the top part exit from the mounting place...you get an empty space between the box and the helmet... and it remain tilted...
Andrea "Fast" Scaramuzza
http://www.fastsky.org

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Find the position that the camera needs to be at and take a Dremel to the Helmet and cut in a groove if needed. I personally HATE that style Bonehead box for side mounting. Its probally one of the worse designs Bonehead has had.

Their hinged clam style boxes worked a whole lot better as long as you put a thumb screw in it. Look around for a used one of those.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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Quote

I personally HATE that style Bonehead box for side mounting. Its probally one of the worse designs Bonehead has had.



Really? I personally love it. Everything is contained and clean, when setup properly its hard to find a snag poing. The only thing that I've had to do is turn my head slightly to the right to keep from wapping the box with a riser. After that I pull my slider down and loosen my chest strap and the risers are no longer an issue. Then again, I do the same with my slider and cheststrap on every jump (except tandems) if I'm wearing my camera or not, so its not a big deal to me.

I personally wasn't a fan of the older clamshell design, I didn't like how it opened or sat against the helmet. Just wasn't as clean (to me), but that's why there's more then one D-box on the market.:P

Its amazing to me how "plug and play" camera setups have become in the past few years. People generally don't *have* to custom fab anything themselves, unless they just want to.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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I love my hinge style since I can keep the camera in the box via the thumbscrew and still view the videos on the view scree, edit from it and everything but adjust the zooming.

You can mod that box so it does'nt have the metal sticking out anymore.

Dave, what helmet is yours on? The metal at the top Dbox is great for things like PimpDaddys, Mindwarps and other things that are rounded. Having a flat side totally screws with them.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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I have an Optik, with the flat side. It fits perfectly flush and its still easy to open, and with the little nipple on the helmet (the deflector on the back) it seems quite hard to have a snag (I'm sure it could happen).

I still use a thumbscrew on the bottom though, just for my own sanity.
--"When I die, may I be surrounded by scattered chrome and burning gasoline."

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Here a pic of what I'm trying to explain. In the pic 1, to have the camera fitted with the flat surface of the helmet without have the top portion exit from the over...you must get a tilted box... and you have problem screwing screws hard, risking to break the box..

In the pic 2 you see that if you want to have the 2 plan surfaces correspond perfectly...
Andrea "Fast" Scaramuzza
http://www.fastsky.org

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"edit from it and everything but adjust the zooming."

If you have the balls for it .....cut a finger hole in your helmet (I'm pretty sure Aggs has seen what I did with my Gath to get around this.), or get a LANC zoom adaptor, if zooming is your bag.:)
I'm thinking seriously about chucking the Gath and getting an Illusion for this season.

Fast1, Lori is probably right, but if you really must side mount that thing, think about spacers to step the box out a little, then fill the gap after with tape or suchlike.
--------------------

He who receives an idea from me, receives instruction himself without lessening mine; as he who lights his taper at mine, receives light without darkening me. Thomas Jefferson

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top mounting... I prefer to have my camera on the side also if top mounting is surely a more secure way to fix it. This box then is maded to be fixed to the side..for the top mount you have to get the other type of box. This weekend, weather permitted (a lot of fog here in italy), I'll try...

See Ya guys
Andrea "Fast" Scaramuzza
http://www.fastsky.org

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