yoink 321 #1 October 27, 2018 Good morning guys, I'm looking for a little advice on finishing up a bathroom remodel - unfortunately my plumber has left me in the lurch because he's a greedy **'@ and I'm having to take on final fitting of fixtures, vanity plumbing and toilet installation myself. :mad: I'm pretty confident about the vanity work and fitting the toilet, but I'm not sure what I need to do to fir the shower heads to the rough-in pipework the previous plumber left. Am I supposed to cut the pipe and tap it, does it unscrew and the fittings simply screw back in or will some sort of extension be required? I've attached some pics of what's been left for the rain head and wall mount bracket, as well as the fixtures themselves in case that's any use. If you can provide any advice I'd really appreciate it. Many thanks Will Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,048 #2 October 27, 2018 Hi yoink, Quote the shower heads Are there more than one shower head to be dealt with? Also, PM sent. Here is a photo of one of my shower heads. I really do not know what the correct terminology for the bent pipe is, but the round piece that is against the wall of the shower is an escutcheon. Then of course you will need the actual shower head. Take this photo to your plumbing supply store & tell them you need 'this.' 'Usually' the galv pipe(s) I am seeing in your photos are temp only and will need to be unscrewed & then your finish, chrome, bent piece will be screwed in. Be sure to use a lot of teflon tape on the threads. Jerry Baumchen PS) What is the last photo of? PPS) Also, make sure you buy the wax ring for the toilet with the rubber flute attached. Well worth the extra buck or so. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisD2.0 2 #3 October 27, 2018 What is sticking out of the wall appear to be rough stubs with galv caps. They generally are just there for the finish wall. They all get removed and either reused for the next job or tossed. Some plumbing codes allow the use of galv pipe and fittings, but as a rule steel / Galv stuff shouldn't be used because they react , rust solid, can color the water, stuff like that. They get replaced with brass nipples, available at any plumbing supply place, some times the box stores carry a few. Turn water off to be safe, spin the steel stuff out, they shouldn't be too tight, and take note these things don't need to be "killed" tight when the new stuff goes in. Brass nipples come in many sizes, you will have to trial and error for the right length. But by the looks of the pictures you have posted of the new things, they seem to have male threads on them? You will have to get either a brass coupling or perhaps there are more parts in a box somewhere? Generally the end of the brass coupling will end up flush with the finished wall and then you screw your stuff into the coupling. Not too tight, a gap is preferable to too tight. The gap can be filled with the same grout you used on the walls. All new threads should get pipe compound on them, Rectorseal Yellow/ thread compound used sparingly on the male threads only is the preferred method. Lots of stuff on the web also. Your new fixtures should have a diagram somewhere. Most all plumbing fixtures have what is called "Rough In Sheets." these are not found at the box stores. But most manufacturers have them on their respective sites. In case you run into some issues. As a rule there should be 1/2" "copper x female 90s' " in the wall. This is a standard. Which means stuff can be replaced or changed over the years. Again there's lots of info on the web. If you get stuck. Sometimes some plumbers have known to have placed strategic parts in their trucks as compared with leaving them at a job site, I hope this isn't the case. to ensure final payment,... The thing Jerry is refereeing too is called the shower arm, or simply the bent piece of pipe the shower head attaches to. Do a search for "replacing shower head," lots of vids that may help you out.Brett Bickford Did Not Commit Suicide. He is the victim of ignorance and faulty gear. AND as in the movie: "12 Angry Men," of an ignorant and callous jury. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yoink 321 #4 October 28, 2018 Thanks for the advice guys! I’ve got the overhead fixture set and not leaking and now just need a quick trip to Home Depot to extend the pipe in the wall a couple of inches. The help is much appreciated. Typically I don’t try and do plumbing. Nearly done with this project- the wife’ll be happy to have a bathroom again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGUN 1,053 #5 October 28, 2018 Quote Typically I don’t try and do plumbing Absolutely, I don't do electric. I know two things about electric - it's magic and it can kill you. There's people who went to school for it and I ain't one of them. Nobody has time to listen; because they're desperately chasing the need of being heard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldwomanc6 38 #6 October 29, 2018 BIGUN Quote Typically I don’t try and do plumbing Absolutely, I don't do electric. I know two things about electric - it's magic and it can kill you. There's people who went to school for it and I ain't one of them. That's for sure: it's F.M. I do know one more thing on the subject; if you mix plumbing and electrical work, it's a sure-fired way for disaster. lisa WSCR 594 FB 1023 CBDB 9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 1,912 #7 October 29, 2018 QuoteI do know one more thing on the subject; if you mix plumbing and electrical work, it's a sure-fired way for disaster. Like magic Japanese toilets? AKA electric chairs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGUN 1,053 #8 October 30, 2018 Quote and electrical work, it's a sure-fired way Pun intended? Nobody has time to listen; because they're desperately chasing the need of being heard. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldwomanc6 38 #9 October 30, 2018 BIGUN Quote and electrical work, it's a sure-fired way Pun intended? If I had been really clever, it would have read "sure-fried." lisa WSCR 594 FB 1023 CBDB 9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billvon 2,400 #10 October 30, 2018 >I do know one more thing on the subject; if you mix plumbing and electrical work, it's a >sure-fired way for disaster. I hate plumbing and will do almost anything to avoid it. Amy once had a revelation about plumbing one day while she was trying to see where a dishwasher leak was coming from - she said "all plumbing is is a bunch of pipes and tubes and valves and seals and stuff to keep water from coming out of things." Yep. And you never know which of those bits is going to go south next. I will happily do all the electrical work for any project if someone else handles the plumbing. Because that electrical stuff is easy in comparison. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yoink 321 #11 October 30, 2018 Yeah. I'm not a fan of plumbing either. Got the shower heads and vanity worked out (thanks for the advice! :D) but I'm going to need to find a professional for the toilet. That bit isn't going as smoothly as I'd like and I REALLY don't want that to go wrong. Ewww . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,048 #12 October 30, 2018 Hi Will, Quotegoing to need to find a professional for the toilet - - - That bit isn't going as smoothly as I'd like What's the problem? Having done my share of toilet settings, I consider them fairly easy. I also know that any given one can be a real PITA. Jerry Baumchen PS) Get this type of wax ring: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wax-Ring-for-Toilet-Bowl-D0133-40/202536721 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yoink 321 #13 October 30, 2018 JerryBaumchenHi Will, Quotegoing to need to find a professional for the toilet - - - That bit isn't going as smoothly as I'd like What's the problem? Having done my share of toilet settings, I consider them fairly easy. I also know that any given one can be a real PITA. Jerry Baumchen PS) Get this type of wax ring: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wax-Ring-for-Toilet-Bowl-D0133-40/202536721 The subfloor wasn't put tight enough to the drain so there's a void where the concrete screws for the flange need to go. I'm hoping I don't need to pull up tile to get it fixed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billvon 2,400 #14 October 30, 2018 >PS) Get this type of wax ring: Why is that one any better? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yoink 321 #15 October 30, 2018 billvon>PS) Get this type of wax ring: Why is that one any better? It has a plastic flange already embedded in it - makes it almost self-centering to the sewer drain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 1,912 #16 October 30, 2018 yoink***>PS) Get this type of wax ring: Why is that one any better? It has a plastic flange already embedded in it - makes it almost self-centering to the sewer drain. Also, the flange prevents the wax from oozing into and partially blocking the flow into the drain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JerryBaumchen 1,048 #17 October 30, 2018 Hi Ken, Quotethe flange prevents the wax from oozing into and partially blocking the flow into the drain It also ensures that the 'flow' will be into the actual drain pipe before it exits the flange. Jerry Baumchen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billvon 2,400 #18 October 30, 2018 OK thanks. It's always bothered me that wax rings have almost no "rebound." You set the toilet, it rocks even a little bit - and that part of the wax is already compressed, so now you have a tiny void there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phillbo 11 #19 October 31, 2018 DO NOT caulk the toilet base. You'll be sorry if you ever have to remove it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yoink 321 #20 October 31, 2018 Phillbo DO NOT caulk the toilet base. You'll be sorry if you ever have to remove it. Well that post has come a few hours too late! I used silicone sealant rather than a traditional caulk. Should be easy enough to cut through and I deliberately left a gap at the back just in case there is ever a leak I'll spot it there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
headoverheels 291 #21 October 31, 2018 PhillboDO NOT caulk the toilet base. You'll be sorry if you ever have to remove it. Sealing around the toilet base is required by code in many locations. I might not do it, were I not having an inspection . I prefer not to seal along the back of the base, so that a leak of the wax seal would become evident before it damaged the subfloor . Electrical- two trips to the store. Plumbing-three trips to the store. I had a plumbing contractor make four separate mistakes , just installing the trim around the shower control . One of those guys who's been doing it that way for 20 years, and is going to assume that he knows what he's doing without reading the instructions for a brand he is not familiar with . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gowlerk 1,912 #22 October 31, 2018 QuoteOne of those guys who's been doing it that way for 20 years, and is going to assume that he knows what he's doing without reading the instructions for a brand he is not familiar with . Hmmm....it's even worse when you run into rigging work done by someone like that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PhreeZone 15 #23 October 31, 2018 Use these instead - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-Better-than-Wax-Universal-Toilet-Seal-7530P24/205762183 or https://www.homedepot.com/p/Toilet-Gasket-Flexible-Waxless-Seal-Universal-Fit-BL01/203564758 Way better than wax, can be moved around as needed and they will basically outlast anyone. I've installed I'd guess a dozen of them and I'll do them any day of the week over a Wax one.Yesterday is history And tomorrow is a mystery Parachutemanuals.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChrisD2.0 2 #24 October 31, 2018 yoink ***DO NOT caulk the toilet base. You'll be sorry if you ever have to remove it. Well that post has come a few hours too late! I used silicone sealant rather than a traditional caulk. Should be easy enough to cut through and I deliberately left a gap at the back just in case there is ever a leak I'll spot it there. Sounds just fine. Just so you know, your better than average PLUMBING Supply House, carries at least 15 different types of "Closet Flanges." Many of which are made to solve various issues, such as being too close to the finish wall, you can get an eccentric flange. Too big a rough hole,.. which is very common,...generally not an issue. 2 things yo can do, closet flange with wings and or extended closet flanges and even a closet flange that can be mounted from underneath. These are Never found at a box store BTW. Having a loose closet flange is not a deal breaker either. Many closet flanges are never screwed or bolted to the floor. But genererally the WC is bolted or can be thru bolted. Or glued to the floor. It is a code requirement that the closet flange be sealed to the WC. IT IS NOT a code requirement that the WC be sealed to the floor. This is a common issue with DIy's. Anyone is free to grout or use silicone from the wc to the floor, solves a number of issues and helps keep the throne from loosening over time. Could have used colored grout if you wish also. Personally I think grouting your wc to the tile gives a more pleasant look and helps with sanitary issues. Should it be required , code wise to have to seal the wc to the floor? IMO no. Which is why the code is the way it is. Most all states use a standardized code now,...some states have additional requirements, like NY NY, Some people just use gravity and a wax ring,....which is allowed in the new code as well.Brett Bickford Did Not Commit Suicide. He is the victim of ignorance and faulty gear. AND as in the movie: "12 Angry Men," of an ignorant and callous jury. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billvon 2,400 #25 October 31, 2018 THAT's what I was looking for. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites