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monkycndo

VW mechanics, what's your best guess

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So, on the drive to work, the engine on my 2001 Passat just dies. No sputtering, no warning, just engine goes silent. Here is how it went down.

On surface streets and I slow down to make a turn at an intersection. Just after I make the turn, the engine dies. I was able to coast it the the curb and get out of traffic. There is the battery symbol on the instrument cluster flashing. Try to restart, the engine cranks fine, but no joy. After a short wait as I try to self diagnose and call rescue service, try cranking again. Engine tries to restart and sputters for a second or two, but never catches. Other info that might help diagnose is fuel tank was under 1/4 tank full.

So, while waiting for the tow truck, go online hoping to find any helpful info. Possible solutions:

Crank position sensor is kaputt.
Lose wiring in various places.
Sudden fuel pump failure.
Air Gremlins.

OK, any new ideas or opinions on possible causes as listed above?
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I dunno crap about VWs but spend a lot of time dealing with my Jeep Wrangler, and spend a decent amount of time on a Jeep forum. Based on what you're describing my first guess would be fuel pump. On Jeeps, CPS issues usually present themselves on an initial startup, not while driving.

EDIT: I lost a fuel pump on a Chevy Tahoe in EXACTLY the same way, making a turn and everything. Lucky enough to get it started again and limp into a parking lot a couple blocks away, then it was all over. Admittedly, this may also be part of the reason I would guess fuel pump, just the familiarity of the story.

ANOTHER EDIT: I also think that in a CPS failure it won't even crank.

Elvisio "my two cents, worth less than that" Rodriguez

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Most of the time I've had a vehicle die and not restart, (while cranking and producing obvious compression), it's been one of two things. Fuel, or spark. Pull a plug wire, and see if it's sparking. If it is, it's likely a fuel delivery issue. Could be a fuel pump, relay, or a completely clogged fuel filter. :)

What you say is reflective of your knowledge...HOW ya say it is reflective of your experience. Airtwardo

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I'd guess something in the fuel system. Maybe fuel pump, maybe the power relay to the fuel injectors. Back in the day a faulty distributor would be on my list of usual suspects too. If you're lucky, maybe a clogged fuel filter.

None of that stuff is particularly hard to fix. Diagnosing exactly which one is the problem is still a pain in the ass.
I'm trying to teach myself how to set things on fire with my mind. Hey... is it hot in here?

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I dunno crap about VWs but spend a lot of time dealing with my Jeep Wrangler, and spend a decent amount of time on a Jeep forum. Based on what you're describing my first guess would be fuel pump. On Jeeps, CPS issues usually present themselves on an initial startup, not while driving.

EDIT: I lost a fuel pump on a Chevy Tahoe in EXACTLY the same way, making a turn and everything. Lucky enough to get it started again and limp into a parking lot a couple blocks away, then it was all over. Admittedly, this may also be part of the reason I would guess fuel pump, just the familiarity of the story.

ANOTHER EDIT: I also think that in a CPS failure it won't even crank.

Elvisio "my two cents, worth less than that" Rodriguez



YUP Lost a fuel pump on my VW LT35 2 weeks ago, exact same symptoms
You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
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The 1.8 turbo is an interference engine. If I lost the timing belt, it would be ugly. B|

From all my investigation, number one suspect is the fuel pump. But looking for other suggestions to look at.

At least VW makes accessing the pump easier. No need to drop the tank, there is an access hole from inside the trunk area.

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Is there a schrader valve to check fuel pressure? Fuel pressure gauges are cheap at autozone. If you have a timing light you can check for spark by hooking it to any sparkplug wire and watching for it to flash.

If you try the starting fluid thing be very careful, some cars have plastic intake parts that can be damaged if it ignites in the intake.

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At least VW makes accessing the pump easier. No need to drop the tank, there is an access hole from inside the trunk area.



NOT on my LT35:(:([:/], it's a $3,000 job to sort
You are not now, nor will you ever be, good enough to not die in this sport (Sparky)
My Life ROCKS!
How's yours doing?

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I have a mechanic that is awesome. He is so busy that when I needed work done on the RV, he pointed me in the right direction and said "fix it yourself", which is what happened. I have the basic skillz and tools, just limited diagnosis ability. I appreciate all the suggestions.
50 donations so far. Give it a try.

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Sounds like a bad fuel pump. My car experienced that on the highway. Engine went dead on me while I was cruising on the highway! Had to roll over to the curb. Cranked but it wouldn't catch on. At times, the engine sputtered on for a second or two, but wouldn't catch on.

So, my bet is on bad fuel pump. And you gonna need a new fuel pump to replace that.

Did I win a price? :ph34r:

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You know on VWs you're supposed to adjust the valves every 3,000 miles. They say to use 0.006" but if you're running high performance steel push rods, then you can get away with up to zero. Pull the hose off the carb that runs from the fuel pump, it's to the left of the generator belt and have someone turn the motor over for you, see if fuel comes out. If so, then it's probably your points. When was the last time you adjusted the points in your distributor? A matchbook lid makes a decent roadside adjustment tool to get the gap right.

Wait, you have one of those fancy new WATERcooled VWs? Huh. Probably the fuel pump then...


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If you're thinking fuel pump, it 'should' kick in and pressureize the fuel system when you turn the key to the 'run' position, just before you twist it over to 'start'. Put the key in, move it to 'run' and see if you can hear the pump fire up.

I know this is how it works on my Honda, and I would think that VW would be the same. I might be wrong, so don't take silence in the 'run' position to be the gosphel, but it's just another idea to add to the hopper.

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If you're thinking fuel pump, it 'should' kick in and pressureize the fuel system when you turn the key to the 'run' position, just before you twist it over to 'start'. Put the key in, move it to 'run' and see if you can hear the pump fire up.

I know this is how it works on my Honda, and I would think that VW would be the same. I might be wrong, so don't take silence in the 'run' position to be the gosphel, but it's just another idea to add to the hopper.



Good point!

After the vehicle has been sitting for a bit (couple hours should do ya easily) pull everything in the trunk and make it so you're as close as you can get to the fuel pump without popping the tank open. Have someone turn the key to run (not start) and you should hear the pump cycle for a few seconds.

I can hear mine which is in my tank of my 03 Silverado, from the drivers seat with the window down and in a fairly quiet place.

Fuel filter might be the culprit as well, its a VERY commonly overlooked item that could make all the difference in the world between running and not. Takes 10 mins on my truck to swap out, and 8 of them are checking for leaks afterwords.
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Normally when a fuel pump dies the car will spit and spudder till the last bit of fuel is out of the lines so I doubt it is that. If the car just shut off as if you turned the key off then it is probably a sensor or electrical. Did you notice the lights dimming, slow turn signals, or other strange things on the drive? If the alt is not providing enough of a charge to the battery then you will be able to drive the car for a bit before the voltage drops enough (usually around 10v) so that the computer shuts down, once this happens the car will turn off just as if you shut it off with the key. Also if a sensor such as the crank sensor were to go bad or a wire leading up to it broke, then the computer will not know when to fire the spark plugs hence shutting down the car as well. Both of those problems will cause the car to shut down as if you shut it off with the key. Like others have said you can check if there is fuel by pushing in on the shrader valve to see if there is pressure, you should also be able to hear the fuel pump kick in for 2 sec when you first turn the key to the run position but you will have to listen carefully but I really don't think that's your problem. You really need to get an OBD2 scanner and see if there are any codes present, and then watch the live data while trying to start to pin point the problem.

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Hmm. If it was the usual alternator/battery thing, they typically don't want to crank at all, though. Or do so very sluggishly. That's why I didn't suggest it after reading the description.

I used to un-flood my old RX7 by disconnecting the fuel injector relay and cranking it. Since the engine was flooded but there was no more fuel coming in, it'd catch and then die within a few seconds if I didn't get the relay back in. With the relay out, it was just not getting any fuel at all. I don't know how prone those wires are to trouble in most vehicles, though. I've never seen a problem with them in any car I've driven.
I'm trying to teach myself how to set things on fire with my mind. Hey... is it hot in here?

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