raveninca

My understanding of it is that with it turned on the camera takes everything in and does not auto correct the image in real time leaving that up to the person doing the post editing. Since I am just getting into editing and have no sweet clue how to adjust color, contrast and probably 1000 other things to make the quality equal to the camera making automatic changes I just leave it off. Not sure if I understand the feature correctly but hopefully someone with more understanding will chime in.

We teach a fourth exit called "dynamic" which is from the v of the strut (sitting in the v with right foor on the step and the right hand on the fro t door frame) this allows them to get use to what is required later on when launching 4 ways from a cessna.

Yeah I guess that would be the first question to answer. Really most of the time it's just for my own personal enjoyment. First thing I do is set the project settings to reflect the video I'm working with (gopro is set to 1080 @ 30fps) and then start editing, I found a few tutorials on line that showed me how to do that, same thing with the render settings (found then on a tutorial online somewhere), like I said I am a newbie with this stuff. I have a media center at home and I like to have the best quality video on things I save so that's what I have been doing so far and most of my edits will stay on my hard drive and not be shared. I say that now but that could change, editing seems to be very addictive lol. I will end up uploading some things to utube in the future I'm sure, for that I just went through a tutorial online for the "best" u-tube 720P settings but I haven't used that to render with yet. Also I might make a few "year end" dvd's but I haven't even started looking into what the best settings would be for a project like that yet...one step at a time.

I am just getting use to Sony vegas and have been playing with video effects, different transitions, filters, keypoints, etc. Just kind of trying everything to see what I like so the files have been huge. The 18 min video was over one gig I'm using my own custom rendering settings but based off the sony AVC template in 1920x1080p What would you suggest to be the best rendering settings to go with? Would love to cut down further on the rendering times.

And Sounds to me that your PC might be in need of an upgrade as well. The better programs out there take a lot of hardware to work properly and efficiently. I just got a gopro a few months back and have been playing with Sony Vegas 10. The first skiing video I did was 18 min long and I rendered it into 1080P on my old dual core AMD processor with 8gig of ram and windows 7. It took 10 hours to render it before it exploded a capacitor and burnt a hole into the board. I have since upgraded to a new board (Asus M5A97), chip (AMD 8350), ram(8gig ddr3) and video card(gforcegt440) all for about $500 bucks. My last edit was a 12 min video that only took 30 min to render without blowing up my machine. Just something to think about, I didn't realize just how intensive it is on a PC to do HD video and I learned the hard way.

I got my knuckles rapped when I was learning to pack tandems, because I missed that on a rig. It's a good point to consider as IF it is possible, it could result in a broken riser or inability to cutaway. I have seen this problem missed on the ground during a tandem pack job and it caused the white loop to snap during deployment causing one riser to release. Luckily the TM was able to cutaway.

Yeah the remote is a waste of time and money. I "thought" it would be a good idea so I bought it extra with my sliver edition, stupid me :( I played with it the first night at the coffee table and it's sat there ever since. I just use the app to frame the shot and then forget about it. On the ski hill I will use the phone app to turn the camera off when we are on the chair lift and then back on again/start recording at the top but I think if I were to jump it I would only use the app to frame the shot and then go back to the old school way of pushing the physical button before exit, like you say K.I.S.S.

That option doesn't make sense for those of us who have a LONG drive to the DZ. If we wait until the DZ is open to decide to jump.... we won't even get to the DZ until much of the day is gone. My commute to the DZ is short, only 2 hours each way. I have MANY jumping buddies who drive 3-5 hours each way to the DZ. We have a 2 1/2 hour dive to the dz as well. For this reason we bought a camper trailer and set it up at the dz, tented the first year. Now we leave Friday after work and come home Sunday evening regardless of weather. Skydiving is a game of patience, if that bothers you then you should find something else. When we get weathered out there is always something to do. Learn how to pack, pack student/tandem rigs, help out around the dz (there is always something to do), chat it up with the more experienced jumpers, go for a run, etc. We are lucky at our dz in that it is on private property and still in the building phase. Bunch of us went out and bought little dirt bikes and then built an oval to race on, I'm sure there are some people at your local dz that have some crazy idea's too. ;) Here is the latest weathered project https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151848695703484&set=a.425754513483.198371.298739098483&type=1&theater ...a swing bridge from our deck to the gazebo (which were both built during weather days as well), like I said always something to do at the dz

I'm in the same boat as the op but I did get a GP3 Silver for Christmas. Like the op I have never jumped a camera and I still have a bit to go before I do but I have watched friends for the last year on the dz setup and jump there GP's. I have been using mine for skiing the last month and there are two things that stand out to me as being better geared toward jumping between the older GP's and the newer ones. Take this with a grain of salt though, like I said I have no experience jumping a camera. 1. The GP3 is 20% smaller, it doesn't sound like much but when you put the two side by side it is quite a bit. Still a huge snag hazard but better none the less. 2. The wireless feature is built into the camera so that you can now use the gopro app on your phone. I have noticed quite a few people on the plane playing with their GP's on the way to altitude, people second guessing where the thing is pointing and re-adjusting all the way till the red light comes on. I use my GP3 for skiing and this feature takes a lot of that guess work out of it. I frame the shot first and then forget about it for the rest of the day while skiing. For this reason I think the GP3 silver or black if you want to spend the extra money is worth it over the GP2 for jumping. Sure you can add the wireless backpac to the GP2 but then you have made it much larger, refer back to reason number 1.

I agree with you, and as an addendum to these good thoughts, please point your parachute PERPENDICULAR to the jump run after opening. Flying back to the dropzone too soon can put you in the path of oncoming freefallers. This is especially true if you fall fast (Freeflying), slide around (tracking), or did not leave ample time separation before existing after another jumper. Safety First! Awesome, great example of me not knowing what I didn't know.

The only thing I would add is to make sure you clear your airspace before messing with anything, then rear riser turn back toward the LZ if needed. Once those two things are done then you can unstow breaks, loosen chest strap, collapse slider, etc. And don't forget to keep checking your airspace through out the process.

Jump frequency : 100+ jumps a year, every weekend during our "season" Total jumps to date 135 License CSPA B Distance to DZ of choice: 250kms (156miles) Occupation business owner Age 37 Marital status Married without the ring lol Number of children 0

you just described Skydive Moncton seriously though, skydive chicago comes clsoest to perfect. it was designed from the cornfield up to be a dropzone, not a public airport adapted to the purpose. +1 Give Skydive Moncton a few years... Private property/airstrip. Personal campground, dirt bike track for rain or wind days and kegs almost every weekend...what more could you ask for!

Perhaps I did not make myself clear. I do not think that the references should be abandoned, but instead, augmented by letting the non-verbal brain give you some clues. If the clues work well enough, then you can begin to reduce your dependency of references. We of course need to teach references/altitudes to skydiving students with very few jumps, and see how they learn from that, then suggest other methods. I think it has to be taught at altitudes and then switches to references. For example if I am short of my target by lets say 30ft then I know that I have to back my pattern up about 30ft. Since at my home drop zone I enter the pattern above the 4th trailer in the campground then I know that on the next jump I should enter the pattern at the 6th trailer in the camp ground. This is just an example of my particular drop zone. The point is though you should always be taking note of where your ground references are at the altitudes you want so that you can adjust accordingly and develop your "sight picture" at those various altitudes so that the time when your landing off in someone's back yard you will have an idea of how far it is from their driveway, or road, or power line to a safe landing spot. I hope that makes sense Even at new DZ that you haven't jumped at before it only takes a few jumps to dial that in. Just to add there are lots of other tools you can use when landing off like deep brake approches, low flat turns, etc but my post was more in response to the normal pattern with other traffic in the same landing area.

I took level one and two of the Flight1 canopy courses and we were taught to never to change your pattern altitudes. On the second jump of the course we did a 90 degree turn up high followed by 10 sec of full flight and recorded the altitude loss (you will need a digital alt for this), this recreates your turn to final and give the canopy enough time to go through it's natural recovery cycle. Then like was posted above we set our A and B points accordingly, mine worked out to a turn to final at 300ft flying a Saber 170 loaded at 1.3 so my pattern entry was 900ft and B point set ot 600ft. From there you can adjust those points over the ground to dial in your accuracy. We were also told to fly in 1/4 brakes on your downwind and crosswind legs so that you have some room to make your altitude points if conditions change. From there and with lots of practice in different wind conditions you can dial that pattern in by moving those same altitude points over the ground. On no wind days the pattern will get spread out from the target (longer downwind, crosswind and final over the ground) and on high wind days the pattern will tighten right up to the target (shorter downwind, shorter crosswind and shorter final over the ground) but the altitudes for each leg stay the same. In really high winds this can change a little bit as you might want to start your crosswind turn a little bit early and crab to your B point but that is in really strong winds. Now with all that said I still consider myself a student and without going through that course a few times and getting many more jumps in I am not 100% confident that my advise is correct, might be missing something here but it is what works for me and what I remember. My accuracy is much much better now in all wind conditions that I jump in and flying in 1/4 breaks through the first two legs of the pattern was a big help as well.

What version two? I quoted their web site and asked Jeb to clarify this a few pages back and never got an answer. According to their website, this is a one time deal and they don't ever plan to offer this product after this one time deal. Personally I am not going to buy something without hearing a few reviews first. Here is the direct quote from their site... Did they tell you something different?

Can you clarify that please? According to the site they are not planning on making any more than the first 250 and only if they get enough orders in time. Below is a quote from the site itself... I would have to read some reviews from others before I would spend the cash but if it's the real deal and can do what you said it can accurately then I can't see why they won't sell a ton of them.

Were you guys wearing SPRs or seatbelts? Seatbelts

Those 3 guys must be Larry, Mo and Curley Joe. A van door opens up and all 3 of them were stomping on it. As soon as it hit the slip stream it was gone. What amazes me is that the whole plane load stood there and watched them do it. You can take a 4 hundred pound steel ball and skydivers will figure out a way to break it. Sparky I was not on the load that it happened on but I was on the first load the next day without the door. I have to say that was probably the most memorable take off for me to date. What a rush it was on take off let me tell you, especially when the pilot banked to the left about 80ft off the ground. Here is a pic of myself and two friends sitting on the floor on take off during that first load the next day. :)

She may not be that good but she is very very marketable and when it comes to NASCAR now a days that counts for way more than driving skill, it sucks but it is what it is.

That's an over simplification. There are 5-point harnesses that are DOT approved, but there are only a couple. It has to do with the long and expensive process for the extensive testing that has to occur to be considered "DOT approved." Furthermore, DOT doesn't issue "approvals." Manufactures can apply for a DOT number and it is up to the manufacture to insure that their product has been tested by a third party to certify that it will pass the requirements. So just because something claims to be "DOT approved" it doesn't mean that it is. There is a problem with this with aftermarket lighting for vehicles (as an example). Anyways, the large majority of manufactures choose not to manufacture a race application part that would be submitted for testing. It takes too much time, costs too much money and the return is not worth the investment. I own a performance shop and the main reason you don't see 4,5 or 6 point harnesses in street cars is because they can not be installed safely unless the car has a roll cage or at least a harness bar behind the seats. For any 4, 5 or 6 point system to be safe the shoulder belts can not be mounted any lower than 4" below the shoulder of the driver/passanger. The reason for this is because in a rear impact crash the belts have to hold your body from going forward. It the belts are mounted to the floor, (or side of the seat down low) then the belt will actually pull down on your body and compress or break your spine! The other danger is in a roll over crash, if you don't have a cage over your head then the belts will hold you in perfect place for the roof to crush your head into your crotch. You will notice that they only cars that have DOT approved "harnesses" will have some sort of hoop above the drivers/passengers head to prevent the roof from coming down in the event of a roll over as well as having a mounting point for the belt in the proper place. P.S. I have a roll cage and 4-point harnesses in my street car and I have no issues with them being illegal. Yup, the installation problem is one of the problems as well. I can't remember which CFR overviews the testing of the safety belts...49CFR something. Oh well, it really doesn't matter, but I really enjoy really technical discussions about traffic safety and traffic law. Me too, I love technical discussions about pretty much everything. The aftermarket harnesses are better tested and certified than DOT IMHO. You have two standards being SFI (three year lifetime and then the harness needs to be replaced) and FIA (five years before having to replace the harness). Depending on what you are racing in will determine what certification is needed.

That's an over simplification. There are 5-point harnesses that are DOT approved, but there are only a couple. It has to do with the long and expensive process for the extensive testing that has to occur to be considered "DOT approved." Furthermore, DOT doesn't issue "approvals." Manufactures can apply for a DOT number and it is up to the manufacture to insure that their product has been tested by a third party to certify that it will pass the requirements. So just because something claims to be "DOT approved" it doesn't mean that it is. There is a problem with this with aftermarket lighting for vehicles (as an example). Anyways, the large majority of manufactures choose not to manufacture a race application part that would be submitted for testing. It takes too much time, costs too much money and the return is not worth the investment. I own a performance shop and the main reason you don't see 4,5 or 6 point harnesses in street cars is because they can not be installed safely unless the car has a roll cage or at least a harness bar behind the seats. For any 4, 5 or 6 point system to be safe the shoulder belts can not be mounted any lower than 4" below the shoulder of the driver/passanger. The reason for this is because in a rear impact crash the belts have to hold your body from going forward. It the belts are mounted to the floor, (or side of the seat down low) then the belt will actually pull down on your body and compress or break your spine! The other danger is in a roll over crash, if you don't have a cage over your head then the belts will hold you in perfect place for the roof to crush your head into your crotch. You will notice that they only cars that have DOT approved "harnesses" will have some sort of hoop above the drivers/passengers head to prevent the roof from coming down in the event of a roll over as well as having a mounting point for the belt in the proper place. P.S. I have a roll cage and 4-point harnesses in my street car and I have no issues with them being illegal.

Question about license requirements. I am a new jumper from Canada and only have my solo license. I have done all the requirements for my CSPA "A" license, even wrote and passed the exam but unfortunately it expried before I sent it in to CSPA. So now I have to rewrite my test in the spring to officially get my license. I didn't figure it would be a big deal as I was not planning on traveling to boogie's in my first year. Well that changed when I had the chance to go to the Z-Hills boogie over the Christmas holidays. There they didn't have any issues with taking my solo license and letting me jump, I ended up doing 18 jumps that week for a total now of 55. A few people from my home dz are going to this boogie and it looks like I might be able to come as well (scheduling and money are looking good) but I wanted to make sure that I can actually jump if I do end up going. What are you thought?

Just pick up a tent and some camping gear and camp at the dz. That's what we did during the Christmas boogie and it cost us (two of us) under $100 for everything we needed.

We flew into Tampa and there was a Walmart within 10 min of the airport. We got everything, tent, blankets, pillows, flashlights, food and even a nice big cooler for just over $100. Much cheaper than what a hotel would of cost. Warning about the Tampa walmart... don't stay in there too long, you might come out to find your rental car missing. There was some pretty questionable looking folks in that place Yup, cause we only got ONE Walmart! Sorry, the closet one to the airport