Grumpy

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Everything posted by Grumpy

  1. I've got one from here. Works great and is snag resistant. http://www.devianprint.com
  2. I've got a 306 with Xaos 21-94. I put an OP113 in because I didn't want a full fitting reserve (don't want that thing hesitating when it's coming out of the container) but it's a small reserve when you're trying to put it down in a tight spot off the DZ. If I was buying again, I'd go 319 for sure. Same thickness as the 306, just a little longer and the 306 sits high on my back already (I'm 5'10" but my torso is quite long)
  3. On the G3 helmets there's the little orange thing under the lining, left hand side at the bottom to adjust the tension on the chinstrap. It's just a little orange piece of plastic. The draw cord is wrapped around it a few times. If you unwind it a little it should take some of the tension off the chin strap.
  4. Go Pro have released a new cheap version of the Hero, just called the Hero (no numbers or colours). http://shop.gopro.com/APAC/cameras/hero/CHDHA-301-master.html It hasn't got all the bells and whistles I'll never use and don't want to pay for. Has anyone jumped one? What's the image quality is like?
  5. Sorry to hear you're leaving. Thank you for investing so much time in sharing so much useful information over the years with the community. Best wishes for the future. Dave
  6. DSE, I just picked up a 1080 mini to top mount on a G3. The curved "snap tray" is more curved than the profile of the helmet so there's clear space under the centre of the mount reducing the mating surface area. Turning it 90 degrees allows it to match the profile of the helmet better but then I have to use the taller hemi-lock so the camera can be pointed forward. Would adding a small circle (half inch diameter) of VHB tape so there's a double layer in the middle of the snap tray be a good idea do you think? Can you think of any other way I could improve the interface between the two surfaces? Thanks.
  7. Have you tried the Psycho Pack method? It's good at getting all the air out of a newer ZP canopy and should allow your existing canopy to pack smaller. Google it for instructional videos if there's nobody at your dz who can give you a demo.
  8. I went to the Contour site yesterday to download the user guide and the software for configuring the camera. The links seem to be broken now so I dug around and found copies on the interweb. I've put them in my Dropbox in case anyone else needs them. You should be able to access even if you don't have a Dropbox account. Cheers. Dave User guide - Contour Roam 2 https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31394473/Contour/Contour_ROAM2%20manual.pdf Storyteller for Mac https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31394473/Contour/Contour-Storyteller-Installer.dmg Storyteller for PC https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/31394473/Contour/Contour-Storyteller-Installer.exe
  9. I had my Optima II batteries go flat after a couple of weeks of not being turned off. I emailed L&B about it and they said batteries should last 1-2 years without turning it off. They said my unit must be faulty and replaced it straight away (Thanks L&B) and have only replaced the batteries once since then (3 years ago)
  10. My measurement was an L size on the chart but when the Large helmet arrived I realised it was going to be too much of a struggle to get in and out of it every jump and the strap was too tight across my throat. I returned it to Cookie (un-jumped and un-used) and they sent me an XL instead (super quick turn around and they didn't charge me for the postage for the second one - Thanks Cookie). It was absolutely the right decision. When I do up the strap, it clinches the back of the helmet around my head and holds the helmet securely with no discernible movement in free fall. The audibles are barely noticeable. Obviously everyone's head shape is different but I can measure my head again (I forget what it was) if you like. Can you try an XL at the DZ? (make sure you pull out the strap to the right to clinch it)
  11. Is this what you are looking for? http://www.flycookie.com/shop/Accessories/101/index.htm
  12. Freefly - Sonic - Happy Camera - Tony - Happy Suit improvement.... 2 thoughts... 1. After the jump, when it's warm, most jumpers get out of the top half of their suits, tie the sleeves around their waist and spend the rest of their time on the ground hitching the suit back up on their hips as the sleeves knot loosens. Suits could have either a belt (internal or external) OR an over the sholder elastic strap attached to the waist of the suit. 2. boosters need to have an arrangement to allow them to be "stashed". You only need them in the air. Most of the day they're flopping around and tripping you up. Maybe a tuck tab or a a pop fastener on the tab on the toe of the booster ??
  13. Grumpy

    Talon 2

    I jumped one for about a thousand freefly jumps. There were a number of up-dates made to my rig by the manufacturer that are necessary but your rig may already have them done. The main flap teeth were up-graded to beaver teeth (almost an inch wide as far as I remember) from the thin little tabs that were on the original Talon 2. The reserve flap had tuck tabs added to the side of the flap which made it much more secure than when just the bottom of the tab was tucked in. A bridle cover was added to make sure there's no exposed bridle between the BOC pocket and the main flap #3 by giving you something to tuck it under (and therefore out of the wind when you're flying head up) I also had a bungee cord on the leg-straps to stop them sliding down my legs in a sit and I had a low profile reserve handle. With the modifications done (they were all cheap to have done) and the rig well maintained, was secure and problem free.
  14. I had the same problem and emailed UPT. Theyresponded immediately (continuing the awesome customer service I've always received from them), asked me a few questions about my rig and determined that the following fix was appropriate. They mailed me a velcro piece which is sewn inside the resreve handle pocket but it floats at one end so should allow for more flexing of the harness (see attached photo) They warn that the force to remove the handle will increase marginally. I will have the velco fitted at my next re-pack so can't tell you how effective it is yet. This may not be appropriate for your rig and you shoud absolutely contact UPT before making any mods like this to your rig.
  15. Gav, When you're starting out, baggy is better. The tighter suits that people wear now are only a benefit when you get more precise in your flying. As you'll be learing head up first, get a baggy top to go with your freefly pants. This will give you more drag on your upper body (make sure it is not so baggy that it can blow up around your handles) making it easier to get head up and work out your flying position. As you get better you won't need the extra bagginess but it accelerates the learning in the early stages.
  16. The Optima is designed to be left on all the time. L&B say there is no need to turn it off (unlike the Pro Track).
  17. Get onto facebook and search "Brisbane skydivers". I think they've got our 850hp Beaver this weekend. If you're still having trouble, call hte head office on 02 9791 9155 and ask them for a contact number for the Brisbane DZ. Cheers, Dave
  18. Hi ya. Picton is the only real option around Sydney. It's about an hour South of the city. They do a few loads on weekdays but Sat and Sun are when the majority of the fun jumpers are there and the plane (XL (PAC), skyvan and/or beaver) flys from dawn to dusk. There's rigging, food and drink, a shop, showers, a bunkhouse and a bar. They run a shuttle bus from the city but I don't know when or how often. Give them a call on 02 9791 9155 or check their web site www.sydneyskydivers.com.au AU$42/jump. AU$360 for 10 jumps. AU$3300 for 100 jumps. Let me know if you want any more info. When are you arriving? Hopefully see you there. Dave
  19. Have you seen this? http://www.dropzone.com/content/Detailed/680.html
  20. The guy who owns Parachutes Australia (which builds Talons under licence down under), will not build you a rig with a soft reserve handle. He's had a mal where the only way he could get his reserve out was by hooking a thumb through his D-handle. It's not that he doesn't want kids to be cool, he just knows he'd be dead if he didn't have a D handle so he doesn't want to put anyone else in that situation. (He does offer the low profile D-handle though) It's nice to see a guy put his concern for his customers safety ahead of his desire to make his customers happy.
  21. I've got "slocks" on my risers (do a search for pictures and details) which keep the slider down so I can use rear risers and they're super easy to use but having the slider behind my head restricts my head movement a bit. Does the same happen with the skytie? Does that skytie flap around in freefall? Is it easy to use? The plastic balls look very fiddly, particularly if you're wearing gloves.
  22. My Barigo was older ('97) but I think it's still the same design. Remove the wrist mount webbing (of course), remove the two tiny screws, hold the alti facing you, with your fingers under the parts that the wrist mount goes through and push the face with your thumbs. The whole unit just pops out the back. (Do this over a table ) That's all I did. I also rotated it 90 degrees when I put it back so the "0" is straight up, not pointing towards 3 o clock.
  23. Have you considered Item: L1370 REMOVABLE ARTICULATING RING SIGHT BRACKET ? If you want to go for a fun jump you can quickly remove the sight. After the jump, when you replace it, it's still aligned and ready to go. I remove it every day at the end of jumping to make sure it doesn't get bumped in my gear bag. Well worth the extra couple of $$ in my humble opinion.
  24. Hi. This just might be your problem. Ring sights come with either a 6mm shaft or a ¼” shaft (which is 6.35mm). Which size is yours? If you have a swivel clamp designed for a ¼” (6.35mm) shaft but you have a 6mm ring sight shaft, it won’t be able to tighten down on it. GetHypoxic have both clamp sizes available here. http://www.gethypoxic.com/ringsight.php#swivel Alternatively, if it looks like the shaft is too thin for the swivel clamp you could try cutting an 18.5mm x 4mm strip of aluminium from a Coke can and wrap it around the sight shaft where it is clamped to pack it up and let the clamp get a bite on it.
  25. Leaving aside the fact that you are better off to go straight to your reserve (as explained) you shouldn't have your pilot cute in your hand when you approach the door. If it escapes before you exit or you throw it as you exit, you may get it over the tail or entangled in another part of the aircraft which will not go well for you, anyone who can't get out of the plane or anyone on the ground where the plane impacts if the tail gets ripped off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbEyBLs9fdc