Trevor

The golf mode is the super slow mode for people to analyze their golf swings. I shot a 157 on a par 71 today....that's all the analysis I need...gonna stick to freeflying...

Ditto on what Eric said about jump numbers...here's how I mounted mine. I wanted a removeable setup so I wouldn't have a plastic bracket blocking my stills mount. I ended up sacrificing an old bogen QR base. I stuck the gopro sticky mount onto the bogen and then attached the bogen to my flatlockbase with a simple nut/bolt.

I'd been using VLC to watch quicktime files...now I've got QT installed and Vegas is playing nicely with the GoProHD. A 2-minute fix for a problem that vexed me for hours...you continue to amaze me. Thanks for all you do for this sport... -Trevor

I just did two jumps with the GoPro Hero HD set to 720p60 and I really like the picture quality. My only problem is that I can't figure out a way to edit it! I am running windows 7 64 and Vegas 8.1 and Vegas won't open the GoPro HD's MP4 files. I've tried a slew of free converters but nothing is retaining the original quality. Anyone having any luck? (aside from Macs running final cut pro)

I ordered mine Oct 7 direct from GoPro...track# says it will arrive tomorrow

Here's a video of me doing this technique a few years ago on a XAOS 21 88 loaded at 2.3:1. It works every time for me and I've never had to cutaway line twists: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FD2I8OqbS0#watch-vid-title {edited to fix link}

looks like the same technique is being discussed in this thread: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3657394;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread

I keep my hands on my risers spreading them apart as my canopy opens. When I have line twists, instead of spreading my risers apart and kicking my legs, I simply twist my risers in the opposite direction of twist. This moves the twist down to my chest and the resulting tension spins me back around and out of the twists. I don't know if this technique is unique to my canopy (XAOS 21 88) and 2.3 wingloading, but it works every time. I have never had to cutaway line twists. I do it in this video below: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FD2I8OqbS0#watch-vid-title {edited to fix link}

CX100 dubbing is one-way only: Camera Internal to Memory Stick All CX100 users should jump with the camera set to "record to internal memory". Then you can pass your memory stick around to other people to copy their footage. There is no way to dub from "stick to internal", but at least you have all the dubbed footage on your stick to download to your computer when you get home....

video from my camera; photo by Brian Buckland; pep talk by Mick Nuttall... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgAe3ETOLR0

forgot the attachment for this post...

this is from the cover of the DVD that anyone can order at http://www.brianbuckland.com/ text should be at the FAI website in the next few days

I just got a cookie box lightning fast from chutingstar and did the same sidemount I did with the CX7... It's got a Z-kulls bracket so it's removable and the Hypeye Pro is completely self contained inside the box and the FH70 battery fits. The indicator light sits alongside the Century Optic "baby death" .3 fisheye. The hypeye LED is clearly visible in my field of vision (much better than when I tucked the indicator into my sunglasses). The 'Baby death" does not protrude past the Cookie box enough to catch a riser. This whole setup does not protrude any further than my PC100 did on it an l bracket w/ neoprene condom. I get much less torque on my neck with the side mount vs the top mount. I have about 200 jumps with the CX7 sidemounted and 2000 with the PC100 sidemounted. It might look funny having such a large lens, but the HD video from the baby death is worth it on a big TV...

That Opteka looks identical to the Century...my only worry is that they just copied the Century with very cheap glass....i'd love to see a resolution test...

If you're willing to go to Colorado, you might want to consider going to San Fran. Fly in the iFly tunnel and make $13 jumps at Lodi...

VLC plays every AVCHD file on my PC..only takes a minute to install...

I combined the 4 pages of the pool into two so people can print a single double-sided sheet to put in a jumpsuit pocket. Aside from Eric Deren's pool drawings, I used the diagrams from the voting for block 11 and 14. I modified the drawing of block 14 to better match the verbal description in the pool.

Ditto on the strength of carbon fiber...my Bonehead Mindwarp is 9 years old and has over 50 holes drilled in it as camera mounts and audible pockets have evolved. It is still solid.

My grandfather worked at Kings Point and my father, brother, and brother-in-law graduated from there. It is one of the better kept secrets in higher education. You get a four-year full-ride scholarship and your follow-on commitment is to serve the transportation industry for 5-6 years. Some fulfill this commitment by choosing to join the military, but most serve as deck officers on merchant vessels. While you are at the academy, you spend 2 x six month stints at sea, so one quarter of your time is 'seeing the world'. After graduation the pay for a deck officer can approach six figures (a lot for a 22 year old) and you're at sea a few months at a time so you're not spending it. My dad sailed for his commitment then used the money he saved to pay for Harvard Business School. My brother didn't feel like sailing after leaving the academy, so he got a land-based job working in an importing firm at Norfolk (and did AFF at Skydive Suffolk). My brother in law didn't sail either; he got a great engineering job and lives in CT with my sis. Because they support the transportation industry; it fulfills the commitment. The academy was founded during WWII when there was a great need for merchant ships for the war effort, but these days the mission is non-military. They do use a military environment at the academy (discipline, honor, leadership) to generate competent officers for civilian ships, but a little structure never hurt anyone Except for graduates who volunteer to join the military (about 10-15 a year) no one from Kings Point gets remotely close to the whole "could go to war" thing...(unlike the Academy I went to up the Hudson River) My folks sponsor a senior on the soccer team; PM me if you want to talk to him instead of a coach/scout PS. FWIW- Captain Hazelwood of Valdez infamy went to SUNY Maritime, the arch-rival of Kings Point across the sound

I am happy with mine...very tight fit... It may be a huge hole but it is reinforced with two metal rings joined by 8 allen screws...and the round piece of carbon fiber I cut out for the hole was already weakened by dozens of holes drilled over the last 8 years of the helmets life. pics here: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3307680;page=unread#unread

Could you share your source at Sony? I have done the glue modification on my CX-7, but it is easily reverseable. I don't have any more flutter on my CX-7 (and it's sidemounted), but the delay and error code are annoyances I can live with, but wouldn't mind getting rid of it if it's an easy fix... Thanks, Trevor

When you look at how the stroboframe mount operates, you can see that it's just holding that mounting plate with spring tension. It holds it very tight, but with enough force it will eventually pop out. That bracket releasing may not be a necessarily bad thing. If the opening is _that_ hard, maybe it's better to be dealing with camera replacement vs a serious neck injury. Another consideration; going with a bracket that positively locks doesn't guarantee your gear wont detach. That 1/4 inch screw may be tightly fastened to the camera, but the camera itself is made of many fragile pieces. Two years ago I saw a jumper land after his HC1 burned in. His stroboframe was intact, but all of the camera had broken off leaving behind about 2 square inches of circuit board still firmly screwed to the stroboframe bracket. I am covered by homeowners insurance but didn't realize ESPs could cover me for accidental breakage; I will definitely look into this next time I buy a camera....especially if I need to take it apart to glue the stabilizer :)

Century Optic .3 Fisheye "The Baby Death" http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000ALKDR this is what worked for me....not cheap, but you get the image quality you pay for...

Trunk- You are right on the money. I experimented and removed the large magnet that the stabilizer moves back and forth against when it has current. I also left the stabilizer circuit connected. My hope was that when the cam powered on, it would "test-power" the stabilizer motors and not set an error code. Since the magnet is gone, the motors wouldn't actually move and my stabilizer lens would stay glued right in there. Somehow the camera was smarter than me and when I powered it on, I got the old 62:10 code so it knew I'd been messing with it. Otherwise, same minor symptoms, but nothing that would keep it from jumping. It takes about 17 seconds to boot up (it just displays "handycam" on the screen.) Once it has booted up and the picture is on the screen there is a funky exposure problem that last until the camera sets the error code 30 seconds later. So bottom line, the camera is good to go 45-60 seconds after powering up. I don't know how soon I will get to jump this thing due to the hurricanes, but I am sure the shakes are gone...thanks!

I finished rebuilding my CX-7 after gluing the shakilizer. I only had one piece of the camera leftover after I was finished which is pretty good considering my track record of permanently disfiguring my electronics. The camera worked without the piece, but I figured I better put it back in to be sure. It turned out it was a tiny metal support bracket near the memory stick socket- easy fix. I didn't get shocked during the procedure; I followed the instructions for discharging the flash capacitor with a 1W resistor from Radio Shack, but still treated the capacitor as ‘hot’ since I couldn’t tell if it was really drained or not. There were three things I wish I’d done better: 1) I took a couple of days between taking apart and reassembly making if hard to remember where stuff went and increasing the chance of dust accumulating. If you are going to tackle this project, leave yourself a whole day to do it. 2) I was aware I was getting fingerprints on the lens as I worked with it and planned to wipe it down during the reassemble. I forgot and reassembled it with all the fingerprints still there. Not a big deal to fix, but sloppy. 3) When the camera is in autofocus mode, the image shutters a little as it tries to find the focus point. I think this is because I was slightly "off" when reassembling the imager/stabilizer assembly getting those three little rods to line up. I jump with the camera in manual focus (of course) so it's not a big deal...but I will take it apart again and do it right. I have not been able to jump the cam yet, but I am sure the shakes are gone. That assembly is glued tight and not going anywhere. For the record, I had a hell of a time using a caliper to center the lens and ended up eyeballing it. I would get it exactly right with the caliper, but would shake it loose when going for the glue gun. Eyeballing it seemed just as accurate. Since I am disassembling again anyway, I am going to experiment with other methods that might help the shakes without causing the error codes. Ideally, I would like to leave the stabilization circuit connected, but somehow break the physical connection between the stabilization motors and the (glued) stabilization lens. That way the cam can power it's motors and think it has control of the lens (and not give me an error code) while the lens stays glued tight. Even if I screw that part up, I can unplug the circuit and be back to bomb420's working method.