CTSkydiver

Nice!!

Just started doing handcam about 10 days ago, and business has been pretty slow since I've arrived (I've only done 14 handcam tandems and half a dozen extra jumps with the cams so far); so consider that when reading my comments. I'm still very much figuring this out. Comments below — on the cameras first; and the mounting options second. ... My boss, who has lots of handcam experience, shoots with the Chris Warnock Pivot Pad with dual GoPro Hero 3+Blacks and an external microphone for video handtacked to his glove. Needing to invest in new gear myself, I elected to try the Chris Warnock Pivot Pad for Dual GoPro Hero 4 Sessions. I chose this primarily for two reasons: (1) Super low profile and snag risk. Being brand-new to Handcam, I wanted to start with as little obstruction as possible. (2) I believe the introduction of the Session form factor is an indication of the direction GoPro will be taking in the future with new releases. As an action cam company, and the LEADING action cam company, their goal is clearly to get their cameras in as many places as possible. Smaller size is clearly the way to do this. I don't see the form factor of the Hero 3+ or Hero 4+ lasting more than one more generation. I also see the next generation Sessions getting better and better optics (probably they find a way to squeeze the larger-Hero sized sensor in there) and processing power. I didn't want to invest in a dying format if I could avoid it. The true test, however, would be if the quality was up to snuff. More on this below. One other things I considered: (3) The Hero 4 Session was recently reduced in price from $400 (same as the Hero 4 Silver) to just $200. (4) When I'm done doing handcam, the Sessions could be a lot of fun to play around with on other skydives, using all sorts of unusual mounting locations. ... On quality: The video quality on Superview Wide-Angle is perhaps a step below the Hero 3+ Black in poor light (smaller sensor) and clearly is said to be below the apparently refined Hero 4+ Black. But so far, it has proven to be sufficiently "good enough". Compared to the Hero 3+ Black, it can only shoot 1080P Superview at 48 frames per second instead of 60. The still quality is also quite acceptable, especially in good light, and with the addition of some easy post in Photoshop (Auto HDR for example) can fix the rest. Still photos are only 8mp as compared to the 12mp of the Hero 3+ Black — but I can't imagine a situation where anyone would ever want to crop a handcam shot, anyway. It can shoot such stills at up to 0.5 second intervals, but due to file size issues and the use of USB 2.0 thumbs for content distribution to students, it is preferred here to shoot at 1 shot every 2 seconds, even during freefall from the dropzone's Cessna. The internal microphone is a DEFINITE IMPROVEMENT over the Hero 3+ Black. I purchased an external microphone, but have had no reason to use it yet, as the sound quality has been extremely satisfactory in stock condition. Being unable to adjust menu settings while the cameras are in the housing (the menu button is inaccessible), it isn't very practical to adjust photo interval in-flight; but it's definitely possible if you have the time to pop your Session dedicated to stills out of the housing; or leave wifi on and use the smart remote or cell phone app. Frustratingly, you can not set the Session to default to still photo mode unless paired with a Smart Remote or App. With Wifi off, the only way to take photos is to hold the camera power button for three consecutive seconds. If you release too soon, you'll be shooting video instead. This really sucks, since it pretty much means you can't avoid taking a lot of crap shots getting in position in the door (if you are second out of a Cessna and jumping in a location where accurate spots are essential) and hopefully can be fixed with a future firmware upgrade. You also can not delete (format) the card via the device itself — you must use the app. This is annoying if you are in a rush between loads and want to clear the memory before each new customer after dumping the previous job to your laptop. My workaround only takes a few extra seconds, but I'm told to expect those seconds to count when business picks back up. Anyway, I just copy the contents of the DCIM folder into another folder (previously prepared) on the memory card after first copying it to the computer. ... On the Pivot Pad for Dual Hero 4 Session: Something I did not anticipate with the tiny form-factor cameras and low profile, very streamlined and snag resistant mount, is how the camera's location so close to the back of my hand; and their side-by-side arrangement, would change the appearance of my handcam arm in the resulting videos and stills, as compared to taller arrangements of bigger cameras. Basically, my arm appeared GIGANTIC in the shot compared to that of my boss's; sometimes taking up as much as 1/3 of the screen depending on how well I did positioning the camera relative to the angle of my wrist and elbow. It isn't something he noticed until I mentioned it myself, but it's pretty clear once you see it. At that point, he again strongly urged me to switch setups and convert to dual Hero 3+ Blacks. Being the kind of guy I am, I figured I might be able to find a solution through mounting the cameras at different angles (the mount pivots for a reason) or learning to fly my arm another way. But it also occurred to me I might be able to engineer a solution. After a trip to home depot and a fortuitous find while browsing for my plan-A mod, I got home and went to work. My result is pictured below; as well as some before and after photos for comparison. Ironically, my camera assembly is now slightly taller than the one I was first ill at ease to use; but it's still future-proof and (at lease in my opinion) the results have been dramatic. It also makes the handcam assembly a lot easier to handle for ground and in-airplane shots when NOT wearing the glove, as there is more to hold onto, and your hands are never at risk of block the cams anymore. I'd certainly appreciate any feedback. And I'll throw this out there ... if anyone would like to try my modification themselves, I'll be happy to send instructions, or modify any gloves you send me for just a modest fee for the parts and labor. I'll do that, at least, until someone (like perhaps Chris) comes up with a better solution, if they/he feel there might actually be a market for it. I'm guessing it's probably too small for custom engineer product; being it's just applicable to Hero 4 Session Pivot Pad Glove owners with strong cases of OCD. How many of us could there possibly be? ... Photos: https://flic.kr/s/aHskq67AtH

Yes, definitely. Used pull up cords for thousands of pack jobs. The old kind made of binding tape that shredded your hands, not the new soft ones. Still, the switch to power tools was a one and done affair. No going back. The also work great on demos to anchor your risers or leg straps in the grass (like a tent peg) in lieu of packing weights.

Was going to suggest Gspot to see if the necessary codecs were installed but apparently that program has been abandoned since 2007. You can try this: https://mediaarea.net/en/MediaInfo Or try installing the GoPro software on the computer that doesn't work and maybe that will update the codec required?

Beautiful. Love the cinematic aspect ratio.

Oh, man, what a deal. If only I could expect this Northeast summer we are STILL experiencing to continue straight on thru to next spring. Thanks, Scotty!

I'll just leave this here...

Ah. Thought we were talking about the main closing pin attachment (where the golf balls are connected). Wasn't clear to me in the OP that it was the drogue which departed; and not simply the drogue release (golf ball). I gotta stop reading this stuff at 4 a.m.

5000 jumpers at one DZ in this day and age? How do you run simultaneous parallel jump runs (even remotely) safely these days when everyone is now wingsuiting, tracking, and angle flying? When some people still jump 280 sq.ft. canopies while others swoop the shit out of 70 sq.ft. canopies loaded above 3.0? The chaos and carnage that would happen with the mix of disciplines and wing-loadings today is frankly horrifying to consider. Glad I went in 1999. It was sketchy enough back then. Don't think there will ever again be (or can even be) another.

As a TI, you are responsible for both your life and that of your student. If you are too busy to do a thorough gear check on your rig (especially an unfamiliar one) you should refuse to get on the load. Never expect your PACKER to do it for you, and notice all the things that might kill you and your student; that's YOUR job. And it really doesn't take that long to look.

Surely, it always pays to be nice to the folks you trust with your important stuff. Also, it pays to be nice to customers. The best relationships send appreciation and respect both ways. As for Paramedics and ER nurses -- yeah, those are the people you are going to count on someday to save your ass when you've lost the ability to do anything about it yourself. It's not easy work, and it certainly is vastly underpaid and under appreciated. But not by me. I've never needed trauma assistance before, and hope I never do ... but I'm awfully glad its out there for me if I ever do.

So, uh, thanks for doing that job I paid you to do? And, oh, here's some extra work for you, earlier than planned, that I will also pay you for, if you want it? Oh. You don't? Well, dang. ... I get the tradition argument; but actually asking for a tip, and / or getting slighted when you don't get the one you presumably think you're owed (because you work in an industry that actively works to perpetuate this specific tipping tradition) ... just seems tacky. Is the bottle required out of gratitude because the reserve actually opened? Should that outcome ever be in doubt? Why don't I just buy you the bottle now? You've already saved my life, presumably. Why wait for me to test it? Or is it that the spirits are required in a timely fashion, to calm your nerves, right after your work was actually put to the test? ("Phew! That was a close one! Thank god it happened on one of the rigs I packed sober!") ... Along these lines, Thank you hero pilots, who landed the plane safely when the engine(s) stalled. Like we expect you to do. And, Thank you hero tandem instructors, who landed their students safely in one piece after that nasty malfunction, or that really bad spot you didn't ask a go-around for. You know; like we expect you to do. Etc...

You can use the standard post. The articulating bracket is most useful for other than rear-entry helmets where you wouldn't be able to put the helmet on with the sight in position (without stabbing yourself). I guess you could still use the articulating bracket if you want to swing the sight out of your view at times (like when under canopy).

Does the dzo get the same results? You can always try the ultimate in dumbed down to the lowest denominator - sport mode (running dude). You might be surprised. See who can take better pictures - you or the camera. The camera does surprisingly well. *(the 20d is the expensive version of the XT, right? - should apply) Martin - I kinda like lens flare, so there. Photoshop even makes fake ones, but that's too much effort.

Allen, David ... thanks!

Actually, I'm not that old. Like I said, I might have been off-base, but it's hard to judge someone's tone from the written word. But since you started a new thread to call into question "the ability of some camera flyers" you have seen ... well, there seemed to be some judgement in that in spite of what you say. I'm still curious what your point is, though. You learn about photography by taking pics, and you learn about jumping by jumping. What difference does it make which hobby you start first? And what have you got against people who already jump trying to learn how to take pictures? And as for saying. "I was just curious on peoples opinions" and "don't take it out on me" .. well, make up your mind. [Edit] I might have mis-read your first post as "A couple of posts recently made me wonder as TO the ability of some camera flyers i have seen". I guess that changes things.. mea culpa.

Hey Stumpy, So what if we do? There's more to taking skydiving pics than knowing what an f-stop is. You gotta be able to fly, too. (When you can do both, you're Norm Kent.) Your posts comes off a little holier-than-thou ... and your profile shows 200-ish jumps. Maybe I'm off-base, but what's your point?

here's a few samples...

Ok, I'll preface this by saying I'm a total idiot and sleep deprived, so this might not be totally accurate... but ... my XT adjust pretty well to that, most of the time... With wide angles lenses, you catch lots of sun. It's always gonna ramp down if it thinks you're trying to photograph the bright area in the frame (otherwise it would overexpose everything) - so keep the sun away from the center of the frame and that should usually take care of it. I've been actually pretty happy with some of my snapshots that had the sun very close to the subject (mostly exit shots or tandem shots from below) yet I still had blue skies and detailed faces. Not perfect, but better than I expected from shooting on film. You could fix the exposure, but unless your setting up a specific shot your other angles will get all washed out. Maybe there's some more fancy programming in there that will do what you want and still do everything auto, G-d knows that camera is way smarter than me, I wouldn't be surprised. I don't use it manual much, I like to fly all over the place at different distances to the subject and above and below as well as on level. Of course, if you are talking about taking a pic on the ground, I think if you put some of those focus dots on your subject and half-push the shutter, you can lock-in the focus and exposure and then recompose your shot without the backlight screwing things up. Oh, and you can use the flash if the subject is close. And for in the air, it might help to have a circular polarizer or UV-Haze1 filter.... I don't know, but I use the latter. Also, of course, the easiest fix is to have your subject face the sun and put it behind you. Problem solved. I got some snapshots on the dz site with the sun in them, take a look and see if what I got is what you want, or are trying to avoid. Keep in mind that sometimes the subjects being in silhouette was desired, though. ..Links below (try the second one, those are the tandems)

For those who may have one, or something similar (is there anything similar?), I've got a couple questions for you. I'm considering adding one to a Pentium D 830 based system with an Intel 955x based mobo with 2gig DDR2 ram and a (gotta check compatibility here) nVidia GeForce 6800 (256mb, PCIe), a decent RAID array, the usual MCE stuff, blah blah blah. First Q: Is it worth it (from a cost -vs- performace enhancement basis) - I'm curious how much this will speed things up? Most threads that mentioned this device referenced use in Pentium III era machines ... computers have come a ways since then so was wondering how much these things are still useful. Second Q: Are there alternatives (like cards that work with other than Adobe, or other PCI card manufacturers)? Thanks... I'm very interested in anything I can do to reduce render & DVD compile times in a NLE workflow. (Please hold all replies about trading in the PC for a Mac unless you really can't help yourself ... I'm stuck).

When I researched this at the beginning of the summer I found that the SanDisk UltraII Compact Flash cards were the best deal; they're plenty fast.

As I said in your other thread, the conceptus is not a LANC controller. The plug is the same size, but what your camera needs is a LANC controller in that port (like a CamEye or CamEyeII) ... and no video camera I know of has a remote shutter release port. The conceptus is a simple remote shutter release; no electronics included.

The tounge switch is for still cameras. You need a CamEye to operate a video camera. You trying to use the PC1000 as a still camera? The plug is the same, but the Conceptus isn't a LANC controller ... it is simply a remote shutter release.

Congrats, but couldn't you hold off bragging until you have the video for us to see?

Dude, they don't slow this camera down much at all. This camera does its thinking very fast. And as for battery power, I doubt you'll wear down the battery very quickly no matter what you do ... my stock batteries last thousands of pics.