bobsoutar

I have three rigs. A Vector 3 with an FX114, cypres & Tempo reserve. A cheap old Talon, with a Lightning 176, no Cypres and a PD176 reserve that I use for nothing except CReW. The other one is a Javelin with a Springo 140, cypres and Transfair reserve that I rarely get to use 'cos my girlfriend loves the Springo and keeps hiding it when she's not using it. No special (non-obvious) reasons for this assortment - and the Javelin/Springo combination was chosen with the view so that Tessa could use it occasionally - honest! For lower jump numbers it would probably be sensible to buy very similar rigs, especially canopies with similar landing characteristics.

You also need the spandex pocket to be tight. F111 canopies wear out quicker than ZP and then they start to dump you the last few feet (so you may need strong knees). ZP canopies tend to glide better than F111 and the material will last much longer so you normally only need to replace the lines every several hundred jumps.

Good decision! Exactly the same rule that Ampuriabrava decided to implement.

Rule of thumb it's 45 degrees but situations change depending on wind speed, group size etc. Try to get a proper briefing for spotting and jumpmastering as this stuff is much better learnt face to face.

Not exactly sure of the physics but I think what you are saying would be correct if the rings were directly above you and not situated in front of the body. I'm sure there is a good explanation involving levers, pulleys and fulcrums but essentially, since you are applying brakes and/or rear risers your body position will change as a result. What you are trying to achieve is to fly the body directly under the front portion of the canopy throughout the surf. Pulling toggles in a de-arched body position will move your weight backwards. You will get better results if you arch forwards and pull your toggles with your hands/arms to the rear.

Definite no as a reserve!

They are all very different. There are reviews on all of them on this site - click on Gear.

Travelliing to Spain I usually wear mine. Only seriously questioned once (disregard the remarks like "you're not taking any chances, are you" etc.) and on explaining about the reserve was asked "and did you pack it yourself, Sir" - luckly I lied and said yes, another guy apparently said no and arrived at Ampuriabrave with his rig opened up and stuffed in a plastic bag.

I used to aim to swoop my Stilletto so that it planed out on it's own and then gradually use brakes just to keep me off the ground until it stopped. Been using an FX for the last 150 jumps and the brakes are quite deep so it seems to be necessary to smoothly apply enough brakes to get a similar result for the surf and then add a little at a time to stay above the ground. I'm half looking for a 27 cell now so would be interested to know if the same technique applies.

For two, it gets your weight positioned better under the canopy.

I am 215 pounds out of the door and use a Lightning 176 without weights for fun CRW (ie loaded at about 1.2). For competition stuff I prefer a 160 (if I can beg, borrow or steal one) or I wear a weight belt to take me up to 1.3. Unless you can afford more than one canopy I would go for the 160 and wear some lead when you have to. It is easier than living on a yo-yo diet (L 143)and having to wear shedloads of lead on the road (L176).

Your problem was lack of forward speed and porpoising - you need to lock on a rigid position.

[Thoughts?] Not your day so far and not made any better if the two serarate and go into a downplane. Safest option would be to chop the main and land your reserve.

Often use this one.

Yes. I phoned them and it arrived the next morning.

In the UK you can get a letter from the BPA which can be shown to airline officials. You may be able to get a similar one from your parachute organisation.

Going heavy on your brakes or rear risers to stall the canopy a bit will just take you up and over the top of the guy trying to dock. When receiving the dock you should be a sitting duck for the guy docking on you. You may need your hands for grabbing canopy so brakes/risers isn't usually an option anyway.

You should be looking slightly forward. Your head acts like a front rudder so make sure that both eyes are looking at your target reference point. A slight bend at the waist is good as is rolling the shoulders forward - I also rotate my hands 180 degrees so that they are facing upwards (like saluting your thighs). If you are fishtailing it is probably that you haven't locked your knees out and really tensed your legs up straight. A track is a very rigid position and your whole body should snap into the position with all muscles remaining tense throughout the track.

To go forward you first have to stop going backwards. Check the postings on "Looking for sit advice" - plenty of good stuff there.

Not all 190s are a complete dog to fly. Is you instructor trying to sell you a 150 he already has? Last thing you want is a canopy you are scared to jump - it will stop you enjoying the rest of the skydive. Work down to a 170 and stick with it until you have completely outgrown it.

[How does that work in a freefly big-way? ] It doesn't. Freefly big ways are the same as RW big ways - you have to allow them extra seperation time out of the door because they will all be tracking in different directions.

Lie on the floor (or a creeper), spread your knees wide and bent up with your toes pointing at the sky - then back up against a wall so that your shins are more or less pressed against it. Stay there reading a book or something until your body is used to the new leg position.

Sounds like you are getting spins rather than twists. Releasing the brakes normally sorts this out pretty quickly without the need to chop.

[I just installed slinks on a new canopy. The problem is when the slider comes down it covers my toggles. I have to push it back up to release the brakes and then it slips back down again and blocks my vision. Any advice? ] If you are using slinks you really need to have a collapsible slider and an enclosed cover for the tops of your toggles so that the grommets don't catch them when you pull the slider down and behind your head. I had a problem with the slider blocking my vision when it came down and solved it by using longer risers.

No, turn and come to the side of him (about 1 canopy width), you can then both ease up an outside toggle to get closer. It is difficult to close if you get behind as you are catching the backwash from the guy in front - if you do fall a bit behind it is best to approach from 45 degrees down and 45 degrees to the side. You would probably both benefit from doing a bit of CRW with some more docile canopies to get the hang of this.