GoneCodFishing

From 5 minutes here you can probably work out how it works And if you got facebook here he explains more in detail https://www.facebook.com/vserigs/videos/570961116931929/

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=increase+in+the+angle+of+attack+leads+to+an+increase+in+lift Smithsonian institute https://howthingsfly.si.edu/aerodynamics/factors-affecting-lift Nasa https://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/K-12/FoilSim/Manual/fsim0004.htm FAA https://www.faa.gov/sites/faa.gov/files/2022-01/Angle of Attack Awareness.pdf Skybrary https://skybrary.aero/articles/angle-attack-aoa Pilot institute https://pilotinstitute.com/what-is-angle-of-attack/ Cambridge University https://www3.eng.cam.ac.uk/outreach/Project-resources/Wind-turbine/howwingswork.pdf Hundreds of research papers like this one https://www.researchgate.net/publication/339210108_Effect_of_Angle_of_Attack_on_Lift_Drag_Pitching_Moment_and_Pressure_Distribution_of_NACA_4415_Wing Including this one explaining how the effect of mechanization of the wing is to create lift by moving both the cord and angle of attack on the wing in its new configuration https://www.researchgate.net/figure/When-a-plain-flap-is-deflected-the-increase-in-lift-is-due-to-an-effective-increase-in_fig3_273923634 Thousands of other similar results if you so much as dared to look for them instead of just making it up

You absolutely do not want maximum lift on a canopy, not even close. You want just enough lift for the canopy to fly a given flight path when combined with its trim. Any more lift is unwanted. In fact it's quite the opposite, the name of the game is not to increase lift, but to reduce drag. Once you removed drag you can remove lift accordingly to sit on the given gr desired. The more you reduce lift (and drag respectively) the more efficient the canopy becomes. The more efficient the canopy, the better its flying characteristics and the better response to toggles and risers as the laminar flow remains attached throughout the flight and landing. You do not want a canopy that flies a gr of 5:1 on full flight. You do not want a canopy that will climb when coming out of a turn or a dive. That's the realm of paragliders and military haho jumps, not skydiving wings.

It's a military canopy, probably a variation of the bt80 given the allowable weight. You could contact safran for info, they are the latest incarnation of pdf/zodiac/aerazur

Ah! I 'knew' i had read an article that went over the development of the Excalibur/cross bracing, but despite searching for years i never managed to find it again. Turns out is this video i had watched! Haha. Thanks for posting it

Do you know why they stopped being standad? Wrong balance of pros and coms against 4 grommets or some other reason? Ease of manufacture, cost and things interchangbiliy often weigh the balance but curious if that was the case

That it would still be a pilot7

Oh come on. Unless you are hoping for dick picks why don't you just share it with all of us? (And you can share those dick pics by pm if you want) Fwiw to the OP, the transition from dive to level before the flare works best if it's done smooth and slow. Put the earphones in that flysight set to ping you the speed, and work on levelling and staying level without losing speed. More often than not a too quick levelling just causes a lot of drag due to changing the angle of attack too much, when at that stage you want to change pitch while maintaining the AoA as much as possible.

Doesn't add up. If it really is an AFF jump that is not a level 3, if anything would be a level 5. Otherwise it may be a coached jump which would explain the inactions and distancing by the coach/instructor, and the fact he didn't hold onto the student for deployment.

Easy. Start doing a normal pro-pack, but don't spend too much making it neat and perfect. Leave it kind of loose and sort of where it wants to be, but not much more. Lay it down on the floor and squeeze all the air out. Then you will coocon it nice and tight, making sure all the air is out. At this point you will do like a psycho pack. So move the bridle/d-bag to the side, and roll the canopy from the top down like a spring roll, all the way to the lines. Sit on the canopy with the bundle craddled between yourr knees, and remove the d-bag from the attachement point. Then grab the canopy bundle and keep rolling it in the lines until you reach the risers, so that the lines wrap the canopy making it as compact as you can. Grab your hook knife and cut through the lines. Grab what by now should be a nice and tight bundle, and walk out the back of the packing shed. Locate the dumpster bins, deposit your canopy inside with a nice running kick. Grab your phone, call the Atair dealer, and tell him he won't be having that WinX back. Job done

Nice. Good info that. Do you know who they usually supply by any chance? As in is it mainly military cargo stuff they sell for or is there known brands using their fabric? Edit: I really wanted to word that as 'recognised parachute equipement manufacturers' but thought better of it. Ha, ha

Depends where you are in Europe. Albatros (Germany), Basik (France), Thomas Sports & XD Sports (UK), Wingstore (Luxembourg) or Sky-shop (Lithuania) are a few. Also extremtextil in Germany often have 'seconds' from Porcher which are good enough for patches as the main rejection reason is normally sections of crooked ripstop or spot flaws. Edit: They got PN1 at the moment which is Porcher's F111 for 9.90 eur/m which is a pretty decent price.https://www.extremtextil.de/en/ripstop-nylon-parachute-fabric-pn1-uncoated-calendered-30den-40g-sqm-2nd-choice.html

Pilots didn't say 'over'

Fuck it, just get an R3 https://www.tonysuits.com/shop/wingsuits/r3-wingsuit/