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theonlyski

Got a sewing machine

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Found a Singer 31-15 with table and 1/3 hp motor on ebay last night for $75. Went and looked at it and decided to get it. Now, the expensive part... the materials!

There are some parts that I want to replace/update. The belt on it seems to be an automotive v-belt (whereas I thought they were a little thinner) see attached photo. The motor needs a little 'help' starting (either by engaging the clutch and turn the handwheel, or by spinning the flywheel) so I think it needs new brushes? Once it gets spinning, it seems to run fine, with a light load on it anyways.

Looks like paragear is getting my arm and half a leg tonight. >:(
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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Grainger should be able help you.

I wanted to slow down my Pfaff 138, they hooked me up with a couple pulleys and a belt.



I don't think I'm going to need to slow it down any, I was just curious about the belt, as I was pretty sure the one I used before was more round than v-shaped.

I'll probably bug MEL for some parts. Any ideas as to the motor issue? I wouldn't be surprised at all if its just the brushes needing to be replaced.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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I have a Juki motor on mine, and thats about all I know about that :$

brushes or capacitor issue?


how about the clutch, is it properly adjusted? don't know if that might be causing a load on the shaft or not??

just a couple SWAG's

DS#727, DB Cooper #41, POPS #11065, SCR #13183, FA #2125, SCS #8306, HALO #309 SRA #5930

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The clutch is completely disconnected when I start it, and the flywheel spins freely. I just have to give it a little encouragement and it will start right up after a few seconds of spinning. Not a complete issue, just something I would rather fix than get used to dealing with.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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My fairly limited experience tells me that it's either the brushes need to be replaced and/or the commutator needs to be cleaned.

If it's been sitting a while that would be my first guess. The copper commutator can get dirty/oxidized and that prevents the current from getting through properly,

Sometimes you can get away with cleaning the brushes, although that's usually just a temporary fix until you can get new brushes. If you try to clean them, make sure you maintain the proper curve in them or you'll just make it worse.
"There are NO situations which do not call for a French Maid outfit." Lucky McSwervy

"~ya don't GET old by being weak & stupid!" - Airtwardo

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My fairly limited experience tells me that it's either the brushes need to be replaced and/or the commutator needs to be cleaned.

If it's been sitting a while that would be my first guess. The copper commutator can get dirty/oxidized and that prevents the current from getting through properly,

Sometimes you can get away with cleaning the brushes, although that's usually just a temporary fix until you can get new brushes. If you try to clean them, make sure you maintain the proper curve in them or you'll just make it worse.



I was thinking it was the brushes as well, figured it probably wouldn't hurt to put new ones in. the commutator could be it too, and the machine has been sitting for a while (typical 'belonged to grandma, no clue how to use it' seller)

How much am I looking at?
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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Hi ski,

31-15's are going to be around forever!!!! I am convinced that if you take care of them & oil them regularly, they will outlive both of us. :o

I would recommend you start looking for a used motor; it will probably be less $$$ than rebuilding the one you have.

I also would get a solid ( non-toothed ) v-belt. I suggest a bearing company; that is where I get mine.

Good luck; only 8 more machines to go. :P

JerryBaumchen

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Hi ski,

31-15's are going to be around forever!!!! I am convinced that if you take care of them & oil them regularly, they will outlive both of us. :o

I would recommend you start looking for a used motor; it will probably be less $$$ than rebuilding the one you have.

I also would get a solid ( non-toothed ) v-belt. I suggest a bearing company; that is where I get mine.

Good luck; only 8 more machines to go. :P

JerryBaumchen



Crap, I only have room for 5 more. B|

What am I looking at for a new motor, price wise? The one I've got works, so I'm in no hurry. I have time to find a deal.


I've got to at some point tear this thing apart and get rid of all the spray paint that's covering this thing up, guess it'll be fun, right?:P
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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Crap, I only have room for 5 more.



Put some of them on wheels so you can move them out of the way when not in use.

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What am I looking at for a new motor, price wise? The one I've got works, so I'm in no hurry. I have time to find a deal.



I got a brand new 1/2 hp clutch motor for around $100-$125 with warranty for my 17w15.
I had the same clutch set up you have, the clutch motor eliminates that.
I've got a BAD bearing in the motor of my 31-20. I figure by the time I disassemble, metal spray the shaft, bore and sleeve the housing to restore the bearing fits, I'll probably have 7 hours in it. Not worth it, I'll just buy a new motor.

And I'm with Jerry, get rid of the cogged belt
CRW Skies
Frank
CRW Diva #58

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Crap, I only have room for 5 more.



Put some of them on wheels so you can move them out of the way when not in use.

Quote

What am I looking at for a new motor, price wise? The one I've got works, so I'm in no hurry. I have time to find a deal.



I got a brand new 1/2 hp clutch motor for around $100-$125 with warranty for my 17w15.
I had the same clutch set up you have, the clutch motor eliminates that.
I've got a BAD bearing in the motor of my 31-20. I figure by the time I disassemble, metal spray the shaft, bore and sleeve the housing to restore the bearing fits, I'll probably have 7 hours in it. Not worth it, I'll just buy a new motor.

And I'm with Jerry, get rid of the cogged belt



Where did you get the motor/clutch? Any modification required to make it fit/work with the machine/table?

I just need to find a new belt, as I don't like the one that's on there, I think the sides are rubbing causing friction on the clutch.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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Hi ski,

Back in the Stone Age, when that 31-15 was new, they built the head, the motor & the table as a single unit. It was not truly a single unit but the design would lead to that conclusion.

Nowadays, the motors are more universal. They, for the most part, are of a different design on the clutch system & they are built with 'slots' that allow you to 'move' the motor sideways under the table. This will allow for an optimum fit/location for best results.

As of now ( unless I find something locally ) I would go to Henderson Sewing. I have been dealing with them for some time now & find them to be very helpful ( call & ask for Marty ).

http://www.hendersonsewing.com/

Henderson might even help you with a belt if you cannot find something locally.

Keep us posted on your progress,

JerryBaumchen

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Where did you get the motor/clutch? Any modification required to make it fit/work with the machine/table?



I got the motor at Alberoni"s (where I get all my sewing machine stuff), but, they're out here on the west coast.

Just get rid of the motor mount/clutch assembly and your new motor should bolt right in. With the sloted mounting holes on new motors it should be a drop in fit.

Keep us posted
CRW Skies
Frank
CRW Diva #58

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Its going to cost me about 150 for a new motor/clutch assembly. That's not too bad, so in the near future I'll be doing that. I can still hand start it till I get the motor ordered.

Ordering some thread tonight, trying to decide what webbing/material I'm going to make my packing weights out of... suggestions?

Only downside, I can't find anyone nearby that sells lead shot?B|

"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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Thanks! Glad there's more than a couple places to get webbing and whatnot.

I'm doing this the lazy way now... Im ordering the weights from paragear, and will modify them to fit my needs. It seems less of a pain in the ass to do it this way than try to source lead shot (which seems to be fairly pricey and hard to find)

I think I'll order the new machine motor and belt tomorrow just have to measure the current one and figure out if its the 40" or the 44".


I think in the mean time, I'll clean up the machine... any tips on getting all this caked on paint off? Sandpaper?
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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I think I'll order the new machine motor and belt tomorrow just have to measure the current one and figure out if its the 40" or the 44".



If you order a new motor, go with the Consew 550 servo motor and specify a #614 pulley.

Wait until you install the motor and then go to a local hardware store to buy a new belt.

You will be looking for a 3A belt (farm belt) which means it is 3/8ths inch wide. (4a is 1/2" wide etc.)

The length will be the next number and should be in the 41" range.

The belt numbering is pretty simple.
For a 3/8ths inch wide belt that is 41 inces the number is 3A410.

...and for a belt that goes into 1/2" increments replace the 0 for a 5.

i.e. a 3A415 belt is equal to 41.5 inches.

You may have to try a couple of sizes to make sure you will be "mid-range" of the adjustment arm on the motor.

As far as parts, stick with Jerry's recommendation as to Henderson Sewing. Talk to Dot there.


MEL
Skyworks Parachute Service, LLC
www.Skyworksparachuteservice.com

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