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theonlyski

Got a sewing machine

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I think I'll order the new machine motor and belt tomorrow just have to measure the current one and figure out if its the 40" or the 44".



If you order a new motor, go with the Consew 550 servo motor and specify a #614 pulley.



Thanks!

The guy I talked to when I called Henderson earlier said the part was THIS one. I'm assuming the Consew one is probably better than the (generic) one he told me.

What's the point of the servo? In the little research I've done so far, it makes it so I can adjust the speed. Does that still work the same way (more pedal pressure, faster) or is it more of an on/off?

Seems I can pick one of the Consew's off of ebay for about $100, however, they don't specify the pulley size.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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you can buy a pulley for under $20 shipped. (on ebay :) changing it is just a matter of one screw.

614 made a big difference compared to the 630 that my machine had on it when I bought it.



I take it that it changed the speed? Wouldn't I be able to do that with the servo?

I'm kind of new to this whole sewing machine technical info thing, and I don't see anything in PPM about servos and pulleys.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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it's simple physics.

614 pulley has an outside diameter of 2.175", a 634 (what's considered High Speed for experienced operators) has a diameter of 4.175"

by reducing the diameter you reduce the RPMs. It's direct drive (no gears, no step downs, just a belt), so it's pure and simple :)

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by reducing the diameter you reduce the RPMs. It's direct drive (no gears, no step downs, just a belt), so it's pure and simple :)



Ok, that makes sense.


Now, whats the point of the servo? :S:D
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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by reducing the diameter you reduce the RPMs. It's direct drive (no gears, no step downs, just a belt), so it's pure and simple :)



Ok, that makes sense.


Now, whats the point of the servo? :S:D


here's a fairly informative video :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMwXZYaJGBE&feature=related
keep in mind that they are trying to sell THEIR system, so absorb the information objectively :)

and another one on the pulley sizes :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6dx3HXtwOA

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Alright, they're ordered!

Thanks for the info guys. Guess I'll look at cleaning this thing up while I wait for the parts to come in.

Why did they have to spray paint the damn thing? >:(

"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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The original belt was a 1/4 inch or so round leather one with a glorified uphostery clip holding it together. Yours with a full loop meant there was a slot cut between the holes for it. Alot of people used to finger trap 1000 lbs suspension line to make the belt. How much slack is in the belt . ? does it run better if you flip the bobbin winder in to take up the slack? Just for grins mine has a letter "G" in the serial number . According to Singer that made it a 1923. If you see any old movies about the sweat houses in Boston from that era they all had 31-15's in front of them sewing shirts and stuff

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depending upon the size of the pulley you switch too, you'll probably need a belt.

there are some belt size calculators on-line

you'll need to know shaft diameter, distance between the two shafts and the pulley diameters.
DS#727, DB Cooper #41, POPS #11065, SCR #13183, FA #2125, SCS #8306, HALO #309 SRA #5930

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It runs fine with or without the bobbin winder engaged.

Like I said before, it looks like an automotive v-belt, not a round one that I was expecting.

SN AD303998 puts it circa 1930


Would it work for me to just cut a piece of 550 cord (I have a whole roll of it here) once I get the new motor and pulley on it, then just make the 550 cord 'belt' to measure it?
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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Also, if someone in the Tampa area is looking for a 31-15, I just found this one on craigslist for $25 bucks.

Anyone at z-hills wants it, I can bring it up for a little gas money.

http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/atq/2231334206.html
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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Check out --CuttersExchange.com--I've even found old (reprints) operators/service/parts manuals there.



you can get some good info from http://www.needlebar.org
it's a collectors forum, they're picky and it could take a day or two to join.. but they do have some decent info and pictures.
DS#727, DB Cooper #41, POPS #11065, SCR #13183, FA #2125, SCS #8306, HALO #309 SRA #5930

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Hi ski,

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Would it work for me to just cut a piece of 550 cord (I have a whole roll of it here) once I get the new motor and pulley on it, then just make the 550 cord 'belt' to measure it?



That is one method. I have found, using various methods, that I usually have to get a 2nd belt because I cannot measure for %$#@.

Can you buy belts locally? If so, just do your best on measuring, buy one and try it. If it doesn't fit, just take it back & get another one.

Also, any new motor will have an adjustment for belt tension; a swinging arm adjustment.

JerryBaumchen

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this is the interactive web page I used to select my new belt and pulley combination.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/pulleybeltcalc.html

it's not rocket science ;)

eta: its got a speed calculator too. if you know the RPM's of your motor, you can also see how much of a difference different pulley sizes will have on your machine. word to the wise :)

DS#727, DB Cooper #41, POPS #11065, SCR #13183, FA #2125, SCS #8306, HALO #309 SRA #5930

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SO, me being the tinkerer and OCD guy that I am... I decided to clean and repaint the machine... Bad idea? Probably... good learning experience? Most likely!

So, it looks like the previous owner spray painted (pretty badly none the less) My green scuff pads don't seem to be strong enough to break thru it without a LOT of elbow grease... Why would anyone paint this thing so badly??

Also, how do you get the handwheel off? I removed the two set screws on the wheel, oiled and rotated it, it now turns on the crank, but I can't get it to come off!


Yes, they painted over all the chrome (brushed steel) even the thread tensioner and eyes.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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Hi ski,

I just sent you a PM.

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but I can't get it to come off!



Memory came back ( I think ); there should be a screw down in the middle of the hand-wheel holding it onto the shaft, I 'think.'

If this is it, let us know; I haven't owned a 31-15 in a number of years.

JerryBaumchen



Jerry,

I only see these two set screws, which I have fully removed. Now I can put a screwdriver in the slot on the shaft, and rotate the handwheel a full 360, but I can't seem to pull the wheel out.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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That slot will rotate the entire shaft if I turn it. It is possible that the screw is just that tight... Guess some more oil is in the future.

Ok, so I put one of the set screws back on to lock the shaft to the handwheel, and used a gerber screwdriver sideways to get it to turn. It bent my screwdriver tip, but this seems to have worked fine, got the hand wheel off!
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
I'm an asshole, and I approve this message

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As I remember the 440... means its 44 inches long if itwere 445 it would be 44 1/2 inches. If the new pulleys make tha belt to long you can hack saw it to fit.Measure the old belt OD before cutting. remeasure it and subtract that from the 44 .That should be the new size. The belts are a size theoretical mid point median length. .BFD.Any auto parts store has a measuring device as long as you hold your cut ends close.
Ihad my 1923 owners manual It listed Gingham and other non-nylon fabrics pretty funny to us
I use a #20 needle for "E" or 69 thread

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