Packing Ellipticals

[skydude2000 3]

Hi guys,

I've probably got around a hundred or so pack jobs on fairly large squares. I think the smallest I've ever packed was a Sabre 170. I know quite a few people at my DZ who are very picky about who packs their elliptical canopies, particularly smaller ones. Which is really fine by me, I don't have enough experience with packing ellipticals or small canopies yet.

But is it because it's so much easier for things to go wrong under these canopies and that they are much less forgiving of packing error?

I understand that line twists and line-overs become much more serious problems with these canopies, but I would like to know what kinds of things do you need to change about your packing in order to properly and safely pack smaller ellipticals?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!!!

PULL!! or DIE!!

[phoenixlpr 0]

Nothing radical. Some ppl wants to have specific slider placement or pushing the nose in the middle.
Using RDS can make a jumper more picky about packers.

[jakee 1,280]

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I understand that line twists and line-overs become much more serious problems with these canopies, but I would like to know what kinds of things do you need to change about your packing in order to properly and safely pack smaller ellipticals?

Nothing.

Do you want to have an ideagasm?

[hackish 8]

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I understand that line twists and line-overs become much more serious problems with these canopies, but I would like to know what kinds of things do you need to change about your packing in order to properly and safely pack smaller ellipticals?

When you're packing and jumping your own you start learning little tricks. When I pack a sabre2 for a large jumper I do it slightly differently than for a 120lb grrl. Always ask them before and after what they like and how it opened. That feedback goes a long way.

For the smaller more tapered canopies you really want to pay close attention to packing symmetrically. On a nav 240 you probably wouldn't notice a 2" differential on the risers but on a nitro 135 you sure will. On the smaller ones I also pay closer attention to nose symmetry as it seems to reduce off-heading openings. Slider symmetry in that area is also important but if you've paid close attention to the lines it should fall into place properly.

-Michael

[phoenixlpr 0]

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On a nav 240 you probably wouldn't notice a 2" differential on the risers but on a nitro 135 you sure will.

Tie the risers together under the breaks with your pull-up cord!
I got about 5cm difference once or twice on a 105. I was to lazy to redo it. I haven't seen any difference on opening.

[jakee 1,280]

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On a nav 240 you probably wouldn't notice a 2" differential on the risers but on a nitro 135 you sure will.

Just for fun I've packed a both Sabre2 and a Crossfire2 with over 6" of offset between the risers. Didn't do anything.

Do you want to have an ideagasm?

[erdnarob 1]

As far as I am concerned, packing an elliptical or tapered canopy follows the same rules than any other square canopy. I never tie the risers together, I never put the intakes or cell noses between my knees when flaking. For me those practices are useless but I make sure the suspension lines stay as much as possible at the center of the cocoon. It's so easy to let them spread and go around the edge. That is likely to generate a lineover because of the proximity of the cell noses.
Now, I believe big canopies are more prone to get inflation problems than small ones since it's more difficult to control a large amount of fabric when packing. OTOH when smaller canopies open with problems they react more violently.
I pack my Katana exactely the same way I was packing my Sabre 2 and Sabre (1). Nothing to be afraid of about packing elliptical canopies provided the basic is observed.

Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

[hackish 8]

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On a nav 240 you probably wouldn't notice a 2" differential on the risers but on a nitro 135 you sure will.

Just for fun I've packed a both Sabre2 and a Crossfire2 with over 6" of offset between the risers. Didn't do anything.

I did it twice on my sabre2 170 just for fun. First one was a very off heading opening even though I did my best to fly it as it twisted it went into about 3 linetwists. Second one twisted up so bad I nearly had to chop it. That was enough playing with purposely offset risers.

From a physics point of view keeping the nose, lines and slider even seek to promote even inflation of the wing. If one side catches the air quicker it will begin to inflate quicker and as it begins to inflate it will expose more of that side of the nose. I find even rolling one side of the nose tighter than the other will cause an off heading opening. I have a good video of this somewhere...

-Michael

[Dokeman 0]

I taught my girl how to pack on my stiletto 135 at about 1.7 wingloading. A good pack job is a good pack job no matter what canopy it is.

[NealFitz 0]

I have packed ellipiticals like i would squares and theres been no difference on openings- have packed Velo96s to Stilletto 120s and they have opened grand- and i pack them exactly the way i pack my own Electra 170- which is semi-elliptical

Dudeist Skydiver #170
You do not need a parachute to skydive, you only need one to skydive again

[Hausse 0]

The only canopy I change my packjob for is a Sabre I were I role the nose. All other canopies I pack exactly the same. (Pro pack, no rolling the nose and I do not push it in).

[erdnarob 1]

If your girl is packing your chute, you are sentenced to cook for her, clean the house weekly, be always very kind and patient, tell her she is the most beautifull... even when you will be pissed off.

Learn from others mistakes, you will never live long enough to make them all.

[virgin-burner 1]

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The only canopy I change my packjob for is a Sabre I were I role the nose. All other canopies I pack exactly the same. (Pro pack, no rolling the nose and I do not push it in).

i used to do that on my sabre, now, not anymore. but i do push the nose in. opens much nicer, and much more on heading..

“Some may never live, but the crazy never die.”
-Hunter S. Thompson
"No. Try not. Do... or do not. There is no try."
-Yoda

[chopperman 0]

You got a girlfriend?????

[Winkey 0]

Run the lines, count the nose, quarter the slider, wrap the tail and shove it in the bag... thats my pack job for everything from Xaos 84 to my Katana 120 to Sigma 370s

i don't change my pack job for anything but Sabre 1 then i shove the nose in.

IMO the biggest factor in on-heading openings is body position

[dqpacker 7]

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Run the lines, count the nose, quarter the slider, wrap the tail and shove it in the bag... thats my pack job for everything from Xaos 84 to my Katana 120 to Sigma 370s

i don't change my pack job for anything but Sabre 1 then i shove the nose in.

IMO the biggest factor in on-heading openings is body position

Same here, I've packed everything from a 421 tandem to a 60 VX. And every pack job is the same. Except for the 60 VX I don't flake it, just grab the nose and shake it out. Sabre1 I will roll the nose once over just so people won't bitch.

[chuckakers 372]

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Hi guys,

I've probably got around a hundred or so pack jobs on fairly large squares. I think the smallest I've ever packed was a Sabre 170. I know quite a few people at my DZ who are very picky about who packs their elliptical canopies, particularly smaller ones. Which is really fine by me, I don't have enough experience with packing ellipticals or small canopies yet.

But is it because it's so much easier for things to go wrong under these canopies and that they are much less forgiving of packing error?

I understand that line twists and line-overs become much more serious problems with these canopies, but I would like to know what kinds of things do you need to change about your packing in order to properly and safely pack smaller ellipticals?

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!!!

Elliptical canopies are not as "turn resistant" during deployment. They often want to "fall off" to one side or the other, creating what can quickly develop into a turn.

Also, most jumpers load elliptical canopies heavier than squares. This tends to amplify anything a canopy does naturally, including turns during deployment. This is especially true as loadings reach ultra-high performance levels, say 2:1 and up.

However, don't over think it. Here's the way I've packed for 24 years (small velo included), and I didn't pack my main on any of my 7 reserve rides.

Clear the lines from links to canopy. If the lines are straight and properly stowed, the canopy will open.

Keep everything symmetric from left to right. This helps keep a turn from starting in the first place.

Keep the brake lines on the top of the stack at all times.

Shove the shit in the bag. They're all trash packs when they come out anyway. Yes, I'm serious.

Chuck Akers
D-10855
Houston, TX

[whoops 0]

never pack main, trust your rigger...
canopy always open, sometimes on the ground while checking why cuttaway happened.

I packed a lot of canopies, from 120 to 370 sigma, F111, ZP, normal square, elliptical, lines under tension all time, risers together, slider placed between lines correctly, clear stabilizers, all lines in middle of pj, incl. steer. lines, symetrical D-bag placement, no problem will occure

[mcordell 2]

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Clear the lines from links to canopy. If the lines are straight and properly stowed, the canopy will open.

Keep everything symmetric from left to right. This helps keep a turn from starting in the first place.

Keep the brake lines on the top of the stack at all times.

Shove the shit in the bag. They're all trash packs when they come out anyway. Yes, I'm serious.

So you don't even flake the material? I always thought that would increase your chances of a malfunction.....

www.facebook.com/FlintHillsRigging

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[chuckakers 372]

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Clear the lines from links to canopy. If the lines are straight and properly stowed, the canopy will open.

Keep everything symmetric from left to right. This helps keep a turn from starting in the first place.

Keep the brake lines on the top of the stack at all times.

Shove the shit in the bag. They're all trash packs when they come out anyway. Yes, I'm serious.

So you don't even flake the material? I always thought that would increase your chances of a malfunction.....

I clear the nose and stablizers. I do not go through the canopy flaking the fabric to the outside as many people do.

Think about how the canopy opens. As the lines spread, it doesn't much matter if the fabric is "here" or "there". It only matters that nothing is actually wrapped around anything else.

Is there an added risk of a malfunction by not making the fabric lay neatly outside the line groups? Maybe, but it has yet to bite me in the ass.

Chuck Akers
D-10855
Houston, TX

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