sabre packing question

[moth 0]

ive just bought a sabre 170 (second hand) with about 500 jumps on it and i was wondering weather it is best to flat pack it or pro pack it
thanks for any advise

[bwilling 0]

Either will work, but the manufacturer (PD) recommends pro packing all of their canopies... if you contact them via phone or email, they'll send you a copy of their packing video, and you can see first hand the packing method that they recommend...

Additional PD info found here

"If all you ever do is all you ever did, then all you'll ever get is all you ever got."

[unpacker 0]

in my limited experience i flat packed my sabre 170 which has 1000 to 1500 jumps on it when i first got it, and not having full control of the slider placement caused me to have an extremely hard opening so i pro pack now with no problems [so far]

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[moth 0]

do you roll the nose or just tuck it in?

[aerialcameraman 0]

i pack fpr a guy who has a sabre 150 and what i do is to tuck the nose in (not rolling it). Bring the slider all the way to the front (not quatering it) and then fold over the stablizers. After that make sure to roll the tail good and tight. stow your lines good and snug. He has to this day not complained or had a hard openning. I have jumped it myself..

[bch7773 0]

roll that nose tight if its a hard opener.

MB 3528, RB 1182

[markn 0]

I have a Sabre 170 and a 150 with about 550 jumps on them between the two of them.

I highly recommend rolling the nose. That is roll the four cells on one side toward the center cell. Give the four cells three good tight rolls. Then stuff the rolled cells into the center cell. Do the same for the four cells on the other side.

I also do not fully quarter the slider. I do initially to make sure it is symetrical but later pull most of it out to the front.

I also fold all the stabilizers.

At the end I roll the tail pretty tightly.

If you are not sure about any of these packing methods make sure to talk to an experienced packer so they can show you what is described here. Some of these methods are better shown rather than just explained.

--
Mark N

[SpecialKaye 0]

I don't know where or when some "packers" started placing the stabilizers in, but what you are doing is setting up unnecessary damage to your stabilizers. I have repaired several, including my one canopy that I allowed a friend to use who was taught to pack this way and quickly corrected when he damaged my equipment.

Think about it, you're placing the canopy skin on top of lines that are zipping out. What's that doing to the canopy every time it comes out?

I have a Sabre 170 and a Sabre 120 (both original Sabres). I pro pack my canopies, rolling the nose almost to the A lines (not real tight), 1/4 the slider and roll the tail tight. I've had the 170 for 8 years and only had one hard opening and that was when a prior patch blew out (which was put on backwards) that was 2/3 of the center cell bottom skin. I always pack the same and have no problems.

Kaye Bridge, Senior Rigger

[unpacker 0]

i do nothing with the nose but i do bring the slider out the front and cup it until the back of the slider is about level with the lines.

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[Elisha 1]

When people say "front" (as in quartering the slider than pulling it to the front) do they mean toward the nose? If the lines are over my shoulder (or suspended from a hook), I would think "front" as away from the nose. Which is it?

[hookitt 0]

Front is the nose. Back is the tail.

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[kingbunky 3]

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I highly recommend rolling the nose. That is roll the four cells on one side toward the center cell. Give the four cells three good tight rolls. Then stuff the rolled cells into the center cell. Do the same for the four cells on the other side.

i have read and been told that this is not recommended. when the canopy is inflating, the center cell can be damaged as the outer cells force their way out of the center cell. i do roll the outer four cells, but then i put them beside the center cell, not into it. once this is done, i just push the center cell into the pack job. it's been giving me pretty consistent openings, usually on heading and soft, in around 500 - 700 feet.

"Hang on a sec, the young'uns are throwin' beer cans at a golf cart."
MB4252 TDS699
killing threads since 2001

[Spizzzarko 0]

Pull it towards the penis area... Let me say it again, the PENIS area.

[Mostly_Harmless 0]

I roll the nose completely in one direction (take all nine cells and just roll them together). Along with pulling the slider out past the nose and rolling the tail very tigh I get consistance on heading openings with about 300-500 snivel.

_________________________________________
www.myspace.com/termvelocity

[mark 102]

I do not flake out the inside of the canopy.

I do not roll the nose.

I do not "set" the nose.

I do not roll the tail. I leave the nose exposed.

I do not cocoon the canopy in the usual sense. I do not squash the canopy to bag width before stacking it. I stack first, then make it bag width.

I skip the body-oil transfer step. I do not lie on my canopies to get the air out. On small canopies it's undignified.

I do make sure the slider is against the stops -- I check just before I close the bag. I make sure the locking stow rubber bands are in good shape, to get lines-first deployment. I make sure my pilot chute is the correct size. And I try to slow down before opening: a small difference in speed can make a big difference in comfort.

Mark
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The plural of "anecdote" is not "data."

[Mostly_Harmless 0]

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I do make sure the slider is against the stops -- I check just before I close the bag. I make sure the locking stow rubber bands are in good shape, to get lines-first deployment. I make sure my pilot chute is the correct size. And I try to slow down before opening: a small difference in speed can make a big difference in comfort.

Mark

Did all of that, get a slammer everytime. I did have the rigger try packing it w/o rolling the nose and tail so tight... slammed. As of right now it opens like a charm.

_________________________________________
www.myspace.com/termvelocity

[mark 102]

If you rolled the tail, how did you check the slider was still against the stops as you closed the bag?

Why would a rigger have any special expertise in packing mains?

Mark

[Mostly_Harmless 0]

Alright, then I am going to have to let you pack it since you want to give me a hard time at every direction. If you can pack it so it opens very nicely then you will be the man of the hour. As of right now it opens very nicely for me the way I pack it.

_________________________________________
www.myspace.com/termvelocity

[mark 102]

Ouch!

What were the answers to my questions, then?

Mark

[Elisha 1]

I don't let my canopy dangle that low - the slider would be closer to me chest.

[hobie331 0]

This is on a little different note but still in regards to packing a Sabre.I recently acquired an older but in great condition Sabre which has a duel brake/steering line set. The outer line cascades into the outer three lines with the inner line being single. The problem I'm facing is that the inner line is longer and when I wrap the tail it comes around the side and concerns me that it will cause a malfunction. Any suggestions?

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It's a gift, I don't try to explain it.

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