Cub Cadet will not run

[warpedskydiver 0]

Model 2165 No spark at plugs, no power in wire between coils, wheeled off flywheel so it will get contact, no luck.

Any good suggestions?

It was fine, then nothing.

[warpedskydiver 0]

Stator bad?

Mags have no spark, hmm

[DeNReN 0]

You should ask billvon

[warpedskydiver 0]

[warpedskydiver 0]

I really want to get this running, it runs very strong, turn 4k rpm and the blades are very sharp. i am going to put a secondary set of blades on it for extra mulching power, they are kinda thin and stainless steel.

They should provide a bit of lift and then the mulching will be more efficient.

As it is the deck sounds like a vacuum.

WHEN IT RUNS

[TrophyHusband 0]

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Any good suggestions?

buy a john deere.

"Your scrotum is quite nice" - Skymama
www.kjandmegan.com

[MikeForsythe 0]

Sounds like a bad safety switch in the seat, parking brake or in the transmission (neutral switch). You might also check the fuses.

If after that it still won't start, by a Skagg

Time and pressure will always show you who a person really is!

[DavidB 0]

If all else fails, run it by the folks in the mower forum at www.tractorbynet.com.

When the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

[ryoder 1,388]

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You should ask billvon

Bill would tell him to pitch that obsolete internal combustion engine,
install an electric motor,
lithium iron phosphate battery pack,
regenerative braking from the wheels,
and a solar cell array that doubles as a sun shade.

"There are only three things of value: younger women, faster airplanes, and bigger crocodiles" - Arthur Jones.

[LongWayToFall 0]

No spark, ok, well measure the voltage of each wire going to one side of the coil (the small wires, not the big spark plug wire) compared to ground. One of those wires needs to have +12 volts on it when the ignition is turned on. If one of them does, then it is going to be an issue with the grounding side. Take the other wire (not the 12v one) and touch it to ground. You should get a spark across your plug. If you don't, then it is an issue with the coil, plug wire, plug cap, or plug. If you do, then you need to follow the wire downstream to the ignition device (Im not sure what you are using, it may be CDI, or points, etc) But you know for sure that the wire is going to be getting connected to ground to cause the spark, and that it isn't. Hope this gives you something to work with

[warpedskydiver 0]

I am getting no spark to the mags, I then found that I had a blown fuse in the green wiring line http://ihregistry.com/wire/E20.pdf

I replaced it and still nothing, but it did blow the fuse again as I cranked it over.

[airtwardo 6]

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You should ask billvon

Bill would tell him to pitch that obsolete internal combustion engine,
install an electric motor,
lithium iron phosphate battery pack,
regenerative braking from the wheels,
and a solar cell array that doubles as a sun shade.

That or get a goat!

~ If you choke a Smurf, what color does it turn? ~

[anthonyfellows 0]

Do they even sell lawn mowers anymore? Thank god I haven't mowed a lawn in 9 years ... Always hated that shit. I think they should be built to exceed interstate speed limits.

Serious relationships turn into work after a few weeks and I already got a fucking job :)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
H.A.F. = Hard As Fuck ... Goddamn Amateurs

[muff528 3]

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I am getting no spark to the mags, I then found that I had a blown fuse in the green wiring line http://ihregistry.com/wire/E20.pdf

I replaced it and still nothing, but it did blow the fuse again as I cranked it over.

If this is the correct wiring diagram the fuse has nothing to do with the spark. If these are truly magnetos they do not need 12v from the battery to operate and the key switch grounds the wire to the mags to shut the ignition off. If you can disconnect that wire from the mags you should get sparks if they are OK. Be sure the mags are not connected to any of the safety lock-out switches (seat, brakes, etc.) when you make this test. This will isolate the mags from the rest of the circuit. I doubt both are bad at the same time unless maybe the points are oxidized. So the spark problem is likely caused by one of the parts common to both mags. The fuse problem sounds like a seperate issue involving the starter circuit or lights or something that has to do with the battery.

BTW! - DON'T DO THIS WITH THE PLUGS INSTALLED! If it does start it will run in whatever configuration you happen have the deck, blades, pto, drive gear, etc. whether you are on the mower or not. (Of course you are only doing this to troubleshoot the problem, not run the machine and everything will be hooked up back to normal when you're operating it.)

[Amazon 7]

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Model 2165 No spark at plugs, no power in wire between coils, wheeled off flywheel so it will get contact, no luck.

Any good suggestions?

It was fine, then nothing.

Mine would start and barely run.... kinda like a permanent idle but no faster.

After 3 mechanics screwing with the one I had I parked it by the road.. with aq FREE sign on it

I went and bought a TORO... with a Honda engine... starts first time one pull 2 seasons now.

[muff528 3]

Specs show point gap as "N/A" so the "mags" are likely electronic using stator/reluctor type ignition system rather than a "real" magneto. Still, the diagram shows 2 separate "mags" so I still doubt both are bad at the same time and, as MikeForsythe said, one of the lockout switches could be the culprit for the spark problem.

[JohnDeere 0]

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Any good suggestions?

buy a john deere.

Now that there is a damn good idea

Nothing opens like a Deere!

You ignorant fool! Checks are for workers!

[The_Don 0]

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Do they even sell lawn mowers anymore? Thank god I haven't mowed a lawn in 9 years ... Always hated that shit. I think they should be built to exceed interstate speed limits.

Like this? I have one & they haul ass.

http://www.nextlazer.com/

I am NOT being loud.
I'm being enthusiastic!

[warpedskydiver 0]

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Specs show point gap as "N/A" so the "mags" are likely electronic using stator/reluctor type ignition system rather than a "real" magneto. Still, the diagram shows 2 separate "mags" so I still doubt both are bad at the same time and, as MikeForsythe said, one of the lockout switches could be the culprit for the spark problem.

This makes sense, I suspect the seat safety switch.

It is supposed to stop the motor unless the brake is set, and always if the PTO is engaged.

It started doing nothing and just letting the motor and PTO run.

I did not care at the time.

[JohnDeere 0]

You need to find out why that fuse is blowing first. Unplug both headlamps and replace fuse and see if fuse blows again. If not then the problem is in that circuit, may be the bulbs themselfs. If it shill blows than install headlamps and disconnect voltage meter and hour meter and replace fuse and try again. Trialand error. I say disconnect a couple things at a time to reduce the amount of fuses you waste once you discont a coupleof things and the fuse dosent blow you will have to connect one back at a time and see wich one blows the fuse. If you need more help letme know and i can talk you thru it.

Nothing opens like a Deere!

You ignorant fool! Checks are for workers!

[muff528 3]

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You need to find out why that fuse is blowing first. Unplug both headlamps and replace fuse and see if fuse blows again. If not then the problem is in that circuit, may be the bulbs themselfs. If it shill blows than install headlamps and disconnect voltage meter and hour meter and replace fuse and try again. Trialand error. I say disconnect a couple things at a time to reduce the amount of fuses you waste once you discont a coupleof things and the fuse dosent blow you will have to connect one back at a time and see wich one blows the fuse. If you need more help letme know and i can talk you thru it.

Hmmm....... Warped says that the fuse blows WHILE he's turning the motor over. Lights should be out at that time. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that the only way that fuse is involved when the keyswitch is in the "start" position is through the PTO circuit. Maybe that is a good place to start looking. Maybe it's getting 12v to the fuse through the clutch switch and PTO switch causing it to blow. ?

[JohnDeere 0]

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You need to find out why that fuse is blowing first. Unplug both headlamps and replace fuse and see if fuse blows again. If not then the problem is in that circuit, may be the bulbs themselfs. If it shill blows than install headlamps and disconnect voltage meter and hour meter and replace fuse and try again. Trialand error. I say disconnect a couple things at a time to reduce the amount of fuses you waste once you discont a coupleof things and the fuse dosent blow you will have to connect one back at a time and see wich one blows the fuse. If you need more help letme know and i can talk you thru it.

Hmmm....... Warped says that the fuse blows WHILE he's turning the motor over. Lights should be out at that time. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that the only way that fuse is involved when the keyswitch is in the "start" position is through the PTO circuit. Maybe that is a good place to start looking. Maybe it's getting 12v to the fuse through the clutch switch and PTO switch causing it to blow. ?

Hmmm do you know what is between the off and start position on the ignition switch? Its the RUN position. That's the position that makes everthing RUN after it starts. He needs to find out what is cause the fuseto blow first. Now that ithink about it he needs to look to see if the fuse blows in the run or start position.That will help alot. Not trying to be an ass at all! But i have a little back ground in this area.

Nothing opens like a Deere!

You ignorant fool! Checks are for workers!

[warpedskydiver 0]

It was the Kill wire between the coils, even a new one would cause it to not run, we did the easy thing and removed the wire then installed a switch to cut off fuel flow in order to stop the motor.

It all works now.