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BillyVance

Any riding mower experts out there?

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I've had my Craftsman riding mower since 2000 when I bought my house. A couple months ago the steering went out on it. I got that fixed for $40.

Today a new problem pops up. The engine feels fine at full power and the mower blades are spinning at the right rpms, I just can't go any faster than 1 mph or so in drive.

Any idea what the fuck is wrong with it? I'm no mechanic. Just want an idea of what to expect when I take it to the lawn equipment shop. :|
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Im not expert on lawn equipment but i know a little.
Without the blade engaged will it go faster?



No difference.

When I push the knob from N to drive, it starts going as fast as it would go at the first mark, even when I push the knob further for more speed it will not increase in speed. If I push the knob to the end for top speed, it stops moving, but the engine's still running fine. Like monky said, something's up in the drive mechanism, whatever the fuck it is.
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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The engine feels fine at full power and the mower blades are spinning at the right rpms, I just can't go any faster than 1 mph or so in drive.



Suddenly, the world seems like a safer place.:D
"There are only three things of value: younger women, faster airplanes, and bigger crocodiles" - Arthur Jones.

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I believe there are two belts on that mower. One is the drive belt and one for the lower blade drive. They are not expensive and they are probably both ready for replacement. For the lower belt, drop the blades and route the new belt the same way the old one came off or follow the specification diagram. The drive belt is a little more difficult, especially getting behind the large rear pulley under the seat. I find it easier to jack the mower up, remove the rear wheels, then remove the four bolts holding the back cover-plate on and remove the plate to change the drive belt. The large rear pulley is easy to work with when the plate is removed. Clean all of the debris out and pop the new belt on making sure you route it properly around the tension pulley on the front right side. Replace the plate and wheels before removing the jack. Also, while you’re at it, change the oil, spark plugs, and air filter. If the front muffler is rotted out, change that too. One more thing to do is change the blades. They are probably worn short and dull. When you are all done with that, bring it to my house and try it out once a week.

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I recently did the oil change. Changed the oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and replaced the mower blades. Usually, I replace the belts when they break. Hmmm.... the drive belt probably stretched out a bit. I'll have to disconnect the blade housing and pull it out so I can have a clear look at things.

While it's out, I probably should clean off the grass clippings piled up on it. It's been on there long enough that new grass is growing out of the layer! :S

"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Yep, definitely check the drive belt. My Craftsman mower is about 14 years old. Luckily, my 17 year old son not only is a great packer, but an okay welder. He's helped me fix it several times. B| I need a new mower deck. The price ain't bad, but the shipping is horrible. [:/] Maybe I'll have Brett keep patching the rust out spots. ;)

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If you pull the back plate and drop the blade assembly, you do not have to remove the blade assembly. That is too much work. There is not a lot of room, but there is enough room to change the drive belt, especially with the back plate off. I’ve been tempted to leave the back plate off, but instead of having another part sitting in the garage, I have a cup of coffee and calm down and then put it back on. The mower is obviously designed to piss home mechanics off and pay repair persons to do routine maintenance.

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I just can't go any faster than 1 mph or so in drive.



That'll make for a long trip to the liquor store


Dude, that's a 9 mile drive away. I could get there 3 or 4 times faster by walking. :S:D
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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As if my day could get any worse.... >:(>:(>:(

I drove my mower from the basement in the back out to the driveway at the front of the garage (where my tools are) so I could get started on what I needed to do. Then I tried to move the deck height adjustment lever to lower the deck to the surface. It would not budge. Fuck. >:(

I went and disconnected the mower deck and pulled it out from under the tractor. I noticed that the bottom belt (that spins the three mower blades) had several cracks in it. Yep, need to replace that. The top belt that attaches the deck to the engine was fine. The top belt is the only one I've had to replace, a few times. It's not hard to do. But the bottom belt. Fuck. I didn't have anything that would help me get it loose so I could get it off without taking a pulley wheel off. I figured I would just have the shop guys do it for me.

Then I wriggled underneath the tractor to look at the drive belt. Oh it was loose alright. I noticed at least 5 major cracks in it. It had been due to snap any day now. I looked over the route the belt took from the engine to the rear axle and back. I said "fuck it". Not worth the aggravation of doing it myself.

So, I got the ramps out and drove it up on the bed of my pick up truck, and tossed the mower deck in there too. Drove off to the small engine shop. Got there, told the tech what I needed, and while he was writing up the order, I went to open the truck bed door. The handle snapped off in my hand and I'm standing there going "what the fuck?" >:(:S Just fucking great. Now how am I gonna get the fucking door down?

The tech went and got a screwdriver and pliers. It took him a few tries but he was able to manipulate the broken lever to release the door. He got the forklift, lifted the tractor out and told me it'd be a week and a half before they could get to the work. They're that busy. [:/]

Now I'm wondering what the fuck I'm gonna do with the fucking bed door... Might as well just leave it down for the time being. The truck's over 160K miles anyway but it still runs great. I don't know how much a new handle is going to cost. I might just take the stupid door off and get a mesh or webbed net instead. Hell, that'll probably help my gas mileage.

"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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Replacing the tailgate will take all of 30 seconds, but will be expensive. Replacing the handle will take 30-60 minutes & likely cost less than a used tailgate that may have the same problem tomorrow.

Had to replace that handle & a couple of the door-lock-rod clips on my 94 F-150 in the last few years. None has been "difficult," it just takes time to get to the part needing replacement. When I explained the symptoms to the parts-jockey he didn't blink, reached under the counter, pulled out a cardboard parts bin & handed me the clips I needed for the lock rod. So, it seems these are commonly replaced parts.

I'd suggest searching www.rockauto.com for the tailgate handle (then do a little research & see if the same part is used in any door applications & see if the prices agree or not). I've found that they can beat most anyone's prices even with shipping figured in. They'll also offer options (multiple manufacturers & multiple price points) if available.
When the only tool you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail.

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