Packing question?

[mattsplat 0]

After I packed my rig. I relized I did not reset my brake line lenth after I changed to slider down. Should I do a new pack job or can i just take it out of the tray. I do know it will chang my line lenth. Can I tuk it in the tail pock it?

[leroydb 0]

when in doubt on anything on a pack job, repack it. even if it is something small... You will enjoy feeling good about a packjob on top of the object

Leroy


..I knew I was an unwanted baby when I saw my bath toys were a toaster and a radio...

[hookitt 0]

What do you mean? Can you be a little more specific?

When I reconfigure from slider up to slider down,, I leave the toggles set at the same spot. The brake lines are removed from the slider grommets and the guide rings. Then the brakes are set to the shallow brake setting.

Which part of that are you unsure of?

Either way, string it back out and make sure the brakelines are set up exactly how they are supposed to be.

My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

[TomAiello 25]

Are you talking about the brake setting or the toggle position?

As Tim said, take it out, pull it to line stretch, correct it, then re-stow the lines.

If you are in any doubt at all, I'd recommend just repacking the whole business.

-- Tom Aiello

[email protected]
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[JaapSuter 0]

Spending 30 minutes to an hour on another packjob will never kill you. Doing something that hasn't been sufficiently tested in the field might kill you. That would make it an easy choice for me.

The way I read your message, you changed from slider up to slider down, but stowed the brakes on the shallow brake setting, is that correct? Note that there is more to packing slider down than just the difference between deep or shallow brake settings. Make sure that you route the brake line outside the keeper rings and the slider grommets so you can deal with line-over.

If you were to do those things and tuck the extra slack in the tailpocket, I can see the following problems:

The steering lines can do weird things inside the tailpocket, resulting in tension knots or possibly even fun entanglements with other lines

The steering lines don't have line tension. This extra slack will create a much bigger shock-load on opening then usual. I don't think they'll brake, but it can't be too good either.

Honestly, there are probably some experienced jumpers out there who would have no problem doing what you suggest. But considering an extra packjob will take little extra time, the choice would be easy for me. Unpack and take the opportunity to get one more practice packjob.

[mattsplat 0]

When I was taught to pack. There were 2 differant line settings for slider up or slider down. Also the 2 settings for deep and shallow.

[JaapSuter 0]

Quote

When I reconfigure from slider up to slider down, I leave the toggles set at the same spot. The brake lines are removed from the slider grommets and the guide rings. Then the brakes are set to the shallow brake setting.

That should probably read "deep" brake setting, unless I misunderstood something. In that case, I will gladly delete this post and stand in the corner for inadvertedly thinking I know what I'm talking about.

[TomAiello 25]

Quote

There were 2 differant line settings for slider up or slider down.

Can you clarify? By "2 different line settings" do you mean two different brake settings or two different toggle positions?

If the only thing you need to change is the toggle position, and everything from the brake setting on up is correct you ought to be able to adjust the brake setting and just re-stow the excess. If you have to change the brake setting as well, I'd definitely pull it out to line stretch.

-- Tom Aiello

[email protected]
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[Asylum 0]

Question: Is is the brake setting or the toggle setting?

Also, another question is- what type of object was this pack-job intended?

Either way, I would take it out to line stretch, make your adjustment, reposition your tail placement, do a continuity check, and you should be good.

I would not just "tuck it in". This can lead to a possible tension knot---OUCH!!

ANY what ifs, lack of focus, distractions, or second guess, then you must start completely over.

Besides, your X-ray vision does not work so well when you have your rig on your back and you are listening to all the screaming in your head!!!

And final thought, if you have enough time to post and ask a question, then you definitely have time to re-pack.
So-- that is really your answer!



Have Fun!

_MT

www.asylumbase.com

[mattsplat 0]

Quote

Quote

There were 2 differant line settings for slider up or slider down.

Can you clarify? By "2 different line settings" do you mean two different brake settings or two different toggle positions?

If the only thing you need to change is the toggle position, and everything from the brake setting on up is correct you ought to be able to adjust the brake setting and just re-stow the excess. If you have to change the brake setting as well, I'd definitely pull it out to line stretch.

I'm sorry the toggle settings

[pringles 0]

I am some what confused by the question but here are the answers I can give from reading the post.

I would change toggle setting and reroute the control lines with out pulling it out to line strech.

I would pull the lines out if I was changing from shallow to deep brakes. You would probably have to take the tail gate off to move to deep brakes. Then put it back on once the brakes are set. Then I would redress the tail and finish up.

Thats only what I would do... performance may vary.

Matt Davies

[FIREFLYR 0]

Dude I would just repack it,it takes less time than reading through all these posts
Dont forget to
~re route the brakes outside of your sliger gromets and guide rings
~secure your slider to your risers
~properly stow your brakes with the loop through your brake lines and then through the metal ring.
I almost forgot once
you probably know all that but it couldn't hurt to be reminded.
cheers
~J

"One flew East,and one flew West..............one flew over the cuckoo's nest"
"There's absolutely no excuse for the way I'm about to act"

[flite 0]

It should be okay. For slider up the toggle setting is a little further down the brake line, due to the line going through the slider grommets and riser guide ring. Depending on your canopy and toggle settings you may need to take a wrap to fully stall it the way you have it configured at the moment.

[nicrussell 0]

Quote

Spending 30 minutes to an hour on another packjob will never kill you. Doing something that hasn't been sufficiently tested in the field might kill you.

You could always strap a bag of dog food to it

[GaryP 0]

Gear fear sucks!!

Cutting corners (like you're suggesting) is fine providing you are 100% sure of what you are doing.

If you need to ask then you don't know....... so just repack.

g.

"Altitude is birthright to any individual who seeks it"

.

[gus 1]

If in doubt, repack it. Why risk it?

If all you're talking about is where on the brake line your toggles are positioned then FWIW I don't change mine between su and sd. I think the difference you introduce by taking the brake lines outside the slider/guide rings negates a couple of inches difference on the toggle settings.

Gus

OutpatientsOnline.com

[freakboy066 0]

Keep it simple dude.Have your steering lines fingertrapped at the ends.You can find a setting that would be suitable for the MSL where you most of your jumps,and it will be fine for higher or lower MSL's.This is strictly my opinion,and this works for me.I jump primarily around 1500,but I do jumps that are between 2500-6500MSL quite often.I can tell the difference,but I am able to get good performance,and safe performance with the setting I chose.I prefer not to have all that line dangling off my toggle,and do not like to have to stow it.I do not think it is neccesary.Again this is my mopinion,and it works for me.Hope this helps.
C-YA,Mike

http://freakboy066.tripod.com/

[TomAiello 25]

Quote

Keep it simple dude.Have your steering lines fingertrapped at the ends.

I really prefer using the sliding knot option. Sewing loops in the end of the lines limits your options too much, in my opinion.

Advantages of the sliding knot (when compared with sewn loops):

1) Easier to attach and remove toggles (honestly, this is the biggest one for me).

2) Much easier to change toggle setting (either for slider up/down or to try different toggle positions for flight/flare)


I've seen too many people with obviously incorrect toggle settings sewn into their lines, who just couldn't be bothered to go get them changed. With a sliding knot, this can be changed in 30 seconds while packing, allowing for infinite adjustability on the fly.

-- Tom Aiello

[email protected]
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[manship 0]

Also, when changing configurations, put on your checklist to consider the status of your tailgate. You might want to stretch out the lines and run up the "tailgate" lines to ensure clearance and then engage the tailgate for slider down jumps, that is, if you didn't have it engaged, as some are doing now, for your slider up pack job.

Yeah, its raining.

==========================================

I didn't invent skydiving, but I jumped with the guys who did.

[Asylum 0]

Tom,

Sliding knot,- is this what you refer to as overhand knot on the brake line, with the brake line(above the knot) making a larks head around the toggle/grommet, with the knot providing bulk to prevent the setting from slipping?

_MT

www.asylumbase.com

[TomAiello 25]

Quote

Sliding knot,- is this what you refer to as overhand knot on the brake line, with the brake line making a figure 8 around the toggle/gormmet?

Yes, if I understand you correctly.

I tie a knot into the line, then use that knot as a "backstop" to loop the line around the toggle.

I'm 99% sure this is the same system you use, as you are where I originally got it from.

-- Tom Aiello

[email protected]
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[Asylum 0]

Thanks

That is what I also thought. Sliding knot sounded a little strange, due to the fact that the knot does not slide while in use. Only slides if you, the user decides to "slide" the postion.

_MT

www.asylumbase.com

[TomAiello 25]

I had more thought of the toggle as sliding down to the knot. But I agree that "sliding knot" is a poor description.

-- Tom Aiello

[email protected]
SnakeRiverBASE.com

[Treejumps 0]

A word of caution on tying the toggle with a knot. Make sure that your knot cannot slip into the keeper ring and then hang up when clearing the toggles. Depending on how and where you tie the knot you could create a hang up hazzard.

I prefer the sewn loop. I find it far quicker and neater to pull the toggle off to change slider up/down. On the other hand, I do very few slider down anymore, and I don't do the line mod anyhow. The knot versus sewn loop is determined by what kind of jumping you do and your rigging preferences. YMMV

[freakboy066 0]

There are most definetly pro's and con's to both of are ways.It all boils down to what works for yourself.I did make the suggestion to a friend if he was going to use the knot method then he should finger trap the line behind the knot,but not sew it.This is probably how I will do my new ACE.This will keep the line out of the way.

ANYONE have any opinion on this.

http://freakboy066.tripod.com/