Blink

I can confirm that they were still doing when I ordered mine in January. I paid $400, and in 6 months, I had $800 in Bonehead dollars. Paid for a FTP, extra top plate, camera strap, and shipping, total was $799 :D Great way to get an awesome deal if you can wait. (It was winter here...)

That's funny, I know of an event at a DropZone where if you gave blood, you got a free jump. Most of the people jumped afterwards (the same day). To each their own I guess.

It will fit great. I jump a Sabre2 135 and it is still a snug fit, I would definately not classify it as loose. I'd have no problem jumping a 120 in my J1.

QuoteI'm surprised no one has mentioned that you can take off the visor for the factory diver. I just use goggles under mine. Love it!reply] I use the same thing, provides good protection but I can still feel the wind on my face. I wear my Gatorz underneath and love it!

Are you sure? I just translated a Japanese website and the CX120 comes with 16GB internal memory, and 16GB card.

I think the next model is the CX120 as pointed out by a friend on the weekend. I've found some Japanese websites with information, but I can't read it...

At what jumps numbers did you guys start doing: Double Fronts, 90's, 180's and 270's? Looking back, do you feel you really had them dialed in before moving on, or were you just anxious, lets be honest. I ask purely for curiosity sake. I am currently doing 90's and can get a nice landing, but not 100% of the time, hence continuing 90's, but I'm sure everyone knows someone who has "skipped steps" or hurried along after they had two nice landings in a row.

George, Would you mind posting some pictures? I've worked with Delrin but only for low fricton and bushing purposes, is it rigid/strong enough? Thanks!

I've never been in a tunnel, but my friends have. At the time tey had 700, 1000, 1500 jumps, most of them freeflying, and had to start out on their bellys to prove they were competent. They then spent time on their back, flying in tat orientation. After that, they were aloud the sitfly. You may spend some/lots of time on your belly/back depending on how well you fly. I'm not saying belly and back lfying aren't important, I am just saying that to get to sit flying in the tunnel, that's what you need. If you've already got it done, then nevermind. :)

Just thought I should point out as others have wrongfully pointed out, that the OP has not stated anything about purchasing new canopies. He is simply currently talking about a Vector/Micron. Although everyone is touting "buy used" there is no need of it. I'm sure he had been told, and has read, and has the common sense that used = cheaper. If the OP has the money, a custom fit, properly sized container could last him for a long time. I've had my first container for 400 jumps and should have it for a while yet, I don't know why everyone says after 100 jumps you'll want/need a new container. Nice to see you're taking some advice, good luck :)

1) The largest Micron is sized for 150 main (full fitting) and a 143/160 Op. reserve (standard fitting). Stuffing a main in a container too small will not only be a bitch to pack, but can put unwanted strain on the container and stitching. The V348 would be a great alternative, it will hold the Spectre 170 (full fitting) and a PDR160/OP176 (standard fitting). V310: Width A: 10 Width B: 11 Length: 17.5 Thick: 5.5 V348: Width A: 10 Width B: 12 Length: 19 Thick: 5 If you think 1" on the bottom width and 1.5" on the length is going to make a difference on your cool factor, it's not. 2) Why not get a Vector3? They're identical to Micron's aside from an inch here or there, and they have all the same bells and wistles. They come in any color pattern the Microns do.

Magnets sewn in different locations, like strips, this way you could just "select" the tightes size? I imagine they're using Neodymium (Rare-eath) magnets?

Pieced everything together at 30 jumps over the winter.

The lense comes with three aluminum step rings: 37 - 30.5 37 - 30 37 - 25 You just choose which ever fits your camera (for the CX100, it's 37 - 30).

Actually, I have found that all you need to do is simply rotate it properly and you will remove any dark corners/edges which look similar to vignetting but are not.

I'd speculate it's because there are more people jumping velcro-less risers?

I came across this link some time ago, seems similar to what you're looking for. http://www.chutingstar.com/archives/00000134.html I jump with Velocity Sports risers and love them. There hard housing/grommet component is unparalled by evey other manufacturer.

I did not read it clearly to see that it was his first 90* turn, you're right. Would a more conservative method not be starting with 45* turns? I thought the safer/standard progression was fronts, 45*, 90*, 135*, etc? Paroting...ok. Considering I've experience what he's talking about, I wouldn't exactly say I'm paroting anything. I have been told the same thing from local mentors and had similar experience. I've been doing 90* turns for the past 150 jumps and on a similar canopy and similar loading. Please do not undermine me just because I am less experienced than you. This is not meant as an attack as I fully respect you, and expect the same. If you'd like to talk further, feel free to PM me.

It sounds like you did a 90* turn too high and were trying to keep the speed using double fronts. On a canopy like the Pilot this can be very hard to do as you're fighting the recovery arc, and the riser pressure will increase dramatically. Perhaps this "fighting the recovery arc" is causing the bucking. On a canopy with a shorter recovery arc, you should come out of your turn and recover naturally (or with a little brakes). If you need to use double frotns after, you're loosing speed.

Are you sure that's true? I know the drag force increases exponentially as you approach the speed of light, but is it the same for the speed of sound?

I wouldn't say that. The Century/Opteka is much smaller lengthwise, but larger in diameter, while the Raynox is smaller in diameter, but much longer. As far a weigh goes, I'm not sure.

Yes, I plan on throwing it in a tumbler, as of right now it is the first prototype/mockup to see if the design will work. Thanks.

UPDATE Well after a few months, many set backs, and lots of time re-designing, I have my first cage 99% complete. You can see the design below. Specs: Machined from 6061 aluminum, with 0.15" wall thickness, very strong. Cutouts to lighten and allow access to necessary functions including zoom, a/v, screen.Covers camera perfectly when using the FH50 battery, oviously the FH70 will stick out about 1/4" Holes and fasters machined to line up with Liquid Flatlock. I love this mount, very rigid, very solid, little to no play. Left to do: Drill mounting and alignment holes for camera. I didn't have the location dimensions for the holes on the bottom of the camera, so I need to measure those. Hole in flatlock to allow battery removal. Please comment, let me know what you think, good or bad, constructive criticism always helps. Hopefully there's enough pictures to give you every angle and show you what you need to see. Thanks!

It's not always about how/when the person feels they are ready. The DZO/ST&A have the final say. You could have 500 jumps, and they could tell you you are not aloud to fly wingsuit/camera/canopy.

The Vengence is a high performance elliptical airlocked canopy, that basically means you shouldn't even think of jumping it. Do your instructors/DZO/ST&A know about this canopy that you bought? Are they letting you jump it?