Blink

Thanks. The bottom part was just a quick mock up, I did not get a chance to precisely measure the location and sizes, I just put it on for looks. Colours will be whatever Sharpie you have laying around. Working on Version 2.0 right now, will post pictures when finished.

Thanks for the photos DSE, exactly what I was looking for, is that cage built by Schumacher? Also, forgive my ignorance, but what is that around the lense? Thanks!

Thank you guys so much for the replies, all the feedback is greatly appreciated. This is only the first revision, not the final idea, I just wanted to see if I was going in a right direction. Some rational to some of the design may answer some questions or address some comments: I was thinking of making it out of aluminum sheet, and bending it, but: I am not sure how I would secure it, because the holes for the FlatLock are 2.0" apart, using a bolt and nut would place the nuts under the camera (supporting it off the base). I got around this issue by a thick base, which I would tap, and just bolt through, keeping a flat base. Not to mention I have limited experience with sheet metal, although I'm sure I could figure it out. I didn't bother allowing for the viewing screen to open because I plan on running a HypEye to control the camera, however, I didn't think about checking the zoom, focus, etc. I think I will change the design to allow for that as you both brough up good points. DSE, if you've got time, could you post a picture of your cage? I'd like to see the design, maybe borrow a couple ideas.

I'm looking for some feedback and help on my cage design. Specs: Sized for CX100/CX105 Machined from Aluminum Made to fit Flatlock Locating pin to ensure alignment when camera is removed. The problem I am running into is securing the top cover. I used a design similar to boneheads, with the hinges on both sides, but I don't know what I will use to secure the higne without a permanent pin, any ideas?

Same for me, except I love my Sabre2.

Any word floating around on the Sony SX40? (DSE in particular) Looks identical to the CX100 only SD. Could be a nice entry level camera, at a very nice price. Thanks.

My Sabre2 opens on heading 9/10 jumps. As soon as it's inflating I grab the risers and steer it if needed. Keeps it perfectly on heading. Don't let your canopy fly you, fly your canopy. Also, get better at packing.

That's why you have to get a Sabre2. Feel free to try mine. Will

Similar discussion going on over here: (including and Aerodyne rep. he could probably answer your question) http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3487649;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread Cheers, Will

Forgive my ignorance, but do all RDS have to be deployed at sub-terminal speeds? Or does this damage only apply to PD's RDS and HMA300 combo?

Any updates on this lense? Is anyone still using it? How's the video quality?

Translation: Hey Ladyluck, I know RiggerRob from Pacific Skydiving in Pitt Meadows, B.C. He holds riggers courses. You can try sending him a private message or calling him at Pacific Skydivers, their phone number is (604) 465-7311. I hope you're lazy, and your grammar isn't really that bad. I know it's the internet but c'mon, that's pathetic. Sorry, had to rant.

I started when I was 18 aswell, I am now 20.

Does anyone have any numbers comparing the diameters of different lines and strengths? HMA 500, 700 Vectan 525, 750 Microline 550, 825 Dacron 525, 600 Thanks!

Not sure about other allied forces or companies, but Wings gave my friend a military discount and he's in the Canadian Forces.

That is quite possible, but I must remind you that "alloy" is a very ambiguous term. There are alloys that are softer than steel (aluminum alloys), but there are also alloys much harder than steel (titanium alloys). So depending on the material it was made out of, it could have been softer than steel.

No, they will behave differently, here's an article from PD about wingloading and it's effects. http://performancedesigns.com/docs/wingload.pdf P.S. You only need one question mark per question asked.

Para Concepts http://para-concepts.com/Store/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=33

My experience with the aviator is as follows: I've jumped one for about 100 jumps until I bought my fullface. I loved the look, the feel, the audible pockets, but the one thing I hated, what the cheapness of the finish. Everytime I hit my head, the paint would crack, and chip off. Doesn't hurt it structurally, but looks like crap. I think they've since fixed the problem (bad batch of helmets). They actually offered to replace it free of charge, but I just haven't found the time to mail it out. Copied from a topic some time ago, you can read other peoples thoughts: http://www.dropzone.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?post=3301837 Blink P.S. The search function is your friend.

Thank a lot guys, both good suggestions, I appreciate it. I like the idea of a QR, so I think I might try a pin with the FlatLock. What type of helmet is that? I've got a FTP on the way, but it's got a CF top, not metal.

Video, not getting into stills yet. I've seen the Stroboframe but I'm not a huge fan. I do however like the Schumacher Quick Shoe. After thinking about it last night, I figured I can just modify the plate by drilling a hole, boring it out, and press fitting a pin in there. I've got a machining background with access to a shop, so I think that might be my best idea. The other idea I had, was using a FlatLock mount, and turning a pin that would snugly fit in the camera, then when I put the camera on, it would fit snugly in the slot. This idea seems like less work and less precision needed. (as opposed to the location of the pin on the Schumacher) Has anyone done something similar?

Hey guys, I'm currently putting together a helmet for the next season, and am looking at mounts. I was wondering what mounts provided an anti-twist pin, I think I read that the RRS stuff does, but do any of the other mounts have A/T pins? Thanks.

A better way describe the process is, go from half-braked to full flight quickly, and pull down on your front risers. Do NOT let go of your toggles.

Guess I was wrong, thanks for the information.

It is discontinued, but if I recall correctly, I think I read that they don't advertise it, but they will still build you one, but I could be wrong. Blink