BrianM

Not really. I usually don't bother with packing tabs when flat packing. It's just as quick and easy to grab the seam. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

It depends on what the problem is. If I have something minor that I know I can land safely, then why would I trade that for a canopy that may or may not function properly? However, if I have any doubts at all about landing what I have, I won't hesitate to get rid of it and try a different one! I knew somebody was going to pull out that line. It's repeated often, but it just isn't true. I can do everything wrong and get away with it. I can do everything right and still die. (I'm not making any judgment of the OP's actions, just on that particular reasoning). "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

That's how I pack, and I find it easier without the split bag. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Yes, a pack job will settle somewhat over time, and yes, that will result in somewhat reduced closing loop tension. That doesn't change the fact that a loop that is worn to the point that it just barely survives closing provides very little safety margin, and could easily break at a very bad time. I don't think so. Your pin gets out easier. You think so? Depends on where and how the container is hit. Push on both sides of your container and observe how the canopy bulges outwards, putting more pressure on the closing loop. Now imagine getting wedged between the door frame and another jumper on climbout or exit. Then why not change them a bit earlier instead of endangering the lives of everyone on the aircraft? "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

If a closing loop breaks while closing, it should have been replaced a long time ago! Well, tell me where and what from can it get a stronger pull, than closing with a power tool? When closing, you are not applying that much more force than is on the loop when the container is closed - you are only pulling it up far enough to insert the pin. If you are able to break it by pulling on it by hand (even with a powertool), then it was worn to the point of having only a small fraction of its original strength remaining, and was very close to breaking. Imagine what could happen if your container took a hard hit on climbout or exit; the extra force on a closing loop that is close to breaking could cause it to fail. A quick visual inspection while packing will tell you when your loop is getting worn. Closing loops cost a few pennies and take a couple minutes to make - there's no reason to try to get by with a worn out loop. You can make a bunch while watching TV or something, and keep them in your gear bag so they are available whenever you need them. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Type IIA is gutted Type II. 550 cord is Type III. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

I disagree. I'd rather have students mention stuff they've read here so we can discuss it, than not mention it and be misinformed, or misunderstand something, or be confused about something. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

If a closing loop breaks while closing, it should have been replaced a long time ago! "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Yep. I'm 6' 155 lbs (almost exactly the same as the OP), finding used gear in my size has always been very easy. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

I use rivet washers - they look just like a washer, but they are thicker and don't bend the way most washers will. I don't remember what size I have (I didn't keep the package), but I just measured one: outside diameter: 13 mm - 1/2 inch inside diameter: 5 mm - 3/16 inch thickness: 1.5 mm - 1/16 inch "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Have they always been black? It's been a while since I've packed either (a very long time since I've packed a Dolphin), but I don't remember the freebags being black. Could just be that I've forgotten. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Your profile says you have an Odyssey. They are made by Sun Path Products. They have a price list for replacement parts on their web page: Freebag & bridle: $105 Freebag & bridle if you have a skyhook: $160 You will also need a reserve pilot chute: $138 ... or if you want a pinstripe on the pilot chute: $165 So you are looking at anywhere from $243 to $325. You might want to ask a few dealers for prices, you may be able to get it for less. I've never seen a black freebag. Most are white (including every Javelin I've seen). A few manufacturers make them orange or neon yellow. I'm not aware of any manufacturer that offers a choice of colours. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

That's how I do it as well. I got the tool from you (well, from someone at JS who mailed it ot me, anyway) - it works great. Can someone describe exactly what ghost loops are, and how they are used (or post a picture?) I've heard about them lots (mostly in this forum), but have never seen a description. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

I have a monkey fist on one of my rigs. It is similar to a hackey, but it is lighter and firmer. I like it better than hackeys or PVC handles, but don't really find a big difference between any of them (I have all three on different rigs). Never jumped a freefly pud so I can't compare. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

There is no one "best" method, even for the same canopy at the same wing loading. Which input, and how much of that input to use, will depend not only on canopy characteristics but on other factors such as wind speed. If I'm long in high winds, I probably want to fly at the lowest possible descent rate. If I'm long in light winds, flying for best glide ratio might be better. If wind speeds gradually decrease as I descend, the input required will gradually change as well. You can tell where you are headed by finding the point on the ground that doesn't move up or down (in other words, the angle of a line drawn from you to that point doesn't change, because that line is your flight path - you are flying directly towards that point). Adjust your inputs and re-evaluate. The further away that point is, the better. This will let you find the best input for each situation, rather than use a blanket "half brakes" or "rear risers" rule. I use this trick on long spots (on all bad spots, actually), and have often easily made it back when people using the "half brakes" or "rear risers" method didn't get anywhere close. As for the "getting big" thing: try flying down wind in high winds, look up and see if your PC and D-bag are trailing in front of the canopy instead of behind it! "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

You are describing the median, not the average. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Time to resurrect this thread!

Do you really have to pay custom charges when sending stuff across the boarder for maintenance? That has got to be the first bad thing I've heard about Canada.

While the answer will depend on the situation, in general I think that is ok. You are not flying against the pattern - you are just joining the pattern at a different point. I could fly a wide pattern and end up in the same position, relative to someone flying a narrow pattern, as someone coming straight in from downwind. Landing pattern graphic from USPA: http://www.uspa.org/Portals/0/SIM/collison_free_landing.gif "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

I got my Vector & Sigma rating last year. My DZ uses Vectors. I've done about 75 tandems so far. No mals, no problems at all. A cutaway is not a prerequisite for a Sigma rating. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Our pilot hates it when we throw him out! "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

Very Good Advice, especially the bite your tongue part, Unless of course you really want to punish yourself! I didn't say a word until the course was done - then I handed the course warrant my civilian logbook for signature. He casually flipped through a few pages, then signed the jumps and handed it back without saying a word. Later that day, in the break area, some of the instructors (who had been my sworn enemies for three weeks) had lots of questions for me, as they had just started working towards their civilian A licences, and they were finding it very different from the jumping they were familiar with. Very true! I thought I knew how to PLF before the army taught me - I couldn't have been more wrong! I'm very glad to have that skill now. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

My first military static line (had about 300 sport jumps at the time) - we're all standing there with our static lines hooked up, waiting for the green light. Everyone is looking out the window at the ground 1000 feet below, sounding nervous and saying "look how high we are!" I am looking out the window at the ground 1000 feet below, scared out of my mind, thinking "Don't they know this is way too low to jump? Someone tell the pilot to climb!!!" Good thing I got over that after the first jump - because on the second, I was the first jumper on a tailgate jump. Standing with my toes an inch from the edge of the tailgate at 1000' as I waited for the green light was a really cool view - but if I'd had to do that on jump #1 I probably would have needed to deploy my reserve underwear! BTW, that was the same course that riggerrob did - except I had a C7 instead of an FN (Rob is a little more... ahem... mature than I). Rob - landing in snow on the night jump doesn't sound so bad. The night jump on my course was hard, frozen ground with no snow - and zero winds, I almost nailed my ruck when I landed. "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

No worries! I hope my reply wasn't too sarcastic... Honestly, I would probably do the same thing - wash it and put it back into service. Certainly if it was mine I would; especially if I found it soon enough, and if I was able to get rid of the smell (might also try the blacklight test - cat urine will glow under a blacklight). I'd be interested in the results. I'd also be interested in the long term affects - so keep some of that webbing for a few years, then pull test it! Yes, I'm serious (but I will say better you than me! ). Not only due to the longer exposure time, but also due to the bacteria decaying the urine (which is where the ammonia smell comes from, BTW). Personally I simply keep all gear where the cats can't get at it. Mine are pretty well trained to leave parachutes alone, but why take chances? Especially since cats don't learn that something isn't allowed - they only learn that getting caught isn't allowed! "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg

I was not the rigger on the phone with the manufacturer - it was another local rigger - so yes, by definition it is hearsay. You sure got me there!!! That doesn't mean it didn't happen, and doesn't mean it doesn't belong in this discussion. No rules of evidence here! The manufacturer (I forget which one, sorry) said that because they had no data on the effects of cat urine on nylon webbing, they couldn't verify its integrity and therefore considered it to be unairworthy and it should not be jumped. They didn't say it would ruin the harness - they didn't know, so they erred on the side of caution. I really can't blame them for that - I would do the same if I was a manufacturer. The rigger's position was that if the manufacturer says its unairworthy and shouldn't be jumped, he sure as heck wasn't going to overrule them - and I sure can't blame him for that! As a rigger, I would do exactly the same thing. Well, now you have! As have I. The effects of washing the container were not in question. The effects of the urine were. Good for you. The point remains that we don't have data on the effects of cat urine on nylon, so we don't really know how it will affect the fabric, and you use it at your own risk. That is why I said I'd be cautious if it was a harness or reserve (I wouldn't even hesitate about using a main, and not too worried about a container if the harness was not involved). "It's amazing what you can learn while you're not talking." - Skydivesg