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jcbfly

Modifying my Vector 3 for wingsuiting

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After searching the web, calling UPT, and talking to a rigger or two at my DZ, here's what I've found out about making my V348M more wingsuit friendly. I'd like to hear from anyone with actual experience with these Vector 3 mods B4 I get out the seam ripper...

1. Open up the bottom corner seams of the container all the way to the floor of the packtray.

2. Move the non locking line stows from the outside edges of the d-bag more towards the middle, such that none of the bights of stowed line extend past the edges of the d-bag. This could be accomplished by moving the loops that capture the stow bands, or adding a line stow pouch to the d-bag and eliminating the non-locking stow bands.

3. Lengthen the bridle, making it 100 inches from the closing pin to the base of the PC.

Anyone have any other/better ideas?

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All of those are good ideas. I took the corners out on my Infinity, put in dynamic corners and it worked great. Also I use an extended bridle with a very light PVC pipe section used in place of the hackey to lighten the weight for the PC toss. I was warned a long time ago that a hackey can create an issue is the WS pull environoment, though I never had an issue before I switched as I had a monkey fist which seems to be in the middle weight wise from the Hackey to the PVC, when I get the extended bridle I figiured I could use all the help I could get in the sub terminal air. This works great short of me not giving a good toss with the PC.

Also if you concentrate oon level shoulders on opening along with a good aggressive toss that I think takes most of the problems that your trying to fix away with the above items.

Scott C.
"He who Hesitates Shall Inherit the Earth!"

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JC,
I would not recommend fully opening(dynamic) the corners on the bottom of your container as it can create some other issues that have been discussed quite a bit on here before. Rather I recommend that you open them partially or 3/4 of the way so that there is still a sewn corner(1") on the bottom of the container. Cosmetic issues aside, the fully open corners,often seen on base rigs, can create deployment sequence problems in a skydiving environment and there is also the issue of exposed lines that tend to poke out. Pictures of cut down corners and a modified D bag/line stows can be seen HERE

Packing bridle up/grommet to pin and using a 9' bridle are also modifications that have been proven to work effctively at reducing deployment issues.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask :)

"It's just skydiving..additional drama is not required"
Some people dream about flying, I live my dream
SKYMONKEY PUBLISHING

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None are a bad idea, but IMO #3 is the easiest and most important of the 3 you listed. There's no need to fix a problem that's not there, if you're not getting linetwists with what you have then don't change it; on the other hand, if you will feel better getting it done... it can't hurt.
www.WingsuitPhotos.com

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I'm with longer bridle, bigger PC, and PVC tube handle.

I use a 9' footer and a 32" or 34" PC with a PVC tube handle.

When you move the stows inboard, there is,
1) more force required to pull the lines out, and,
2) it takes a longer time for the line to be extracted from the stow.
Just a gut feel, but I think the torque impulse on the bag would be greater (bad thing).

Also, seems to me, those long loose loops of line that stick through the rubberbands are a baglock or line trap waiting to happen.

I would personally not rig my d-bag like that nor recommend it to anyone. Not sure of any statistics, but it seems to me that I've heard more bad stories about too much line through the rubberband than too little. But maybe there is some other merit here that escapes me.

-Mike
Play like your life depends on it.

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I have two rigs with mods:

Dolphin with dynamic corners opening the pack tray completely, 30" PC, center stows on the D-bag, a D-bag stablizer sewn to the bridle, and a 9' bridle. The opennings are wonderful, steady, just the right amount of positive force, and have been 100% on heading.

Mirage with cut down corners, 30" PC, center stows on the D-Bag, a D-bag stablizer sewn to the bridle, and a 9' bridle. Same great opennings.

Mine are packed with the groment pointed up.

I worked with a fellow rigger and several wing suit pilots I trust to arrive at this group of mods. Each container and parachute system is unique. I would suggest speaking with a rigger that has made such mods and also look at mods done for other wing suit pilots.

I started with the longer bridle, this may be all you need.

I went to the container mods after my PC failed to pull my D-bag positively out of my container and only after rocking hard in deployment position did it roll down my leg wing, hit my foot and spin up into 5 line twists.

Again, get as much info as you can, start with a 9' bridle and go from there.
WSI-5 / PFI-51 / EGI-112 / S-Fly
The Brothers Gray Wing Suit Academy
Contact us for first flight and basic flocking courses at your DZ or boogie.
www.thebrothersgray.com

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My PVC handle has nylon tape end to end holding it to the pilot chute. That way it's completely unsnaggable. It's also got a heavy duty wax cord stitch in the middle holding it tight onto the top of the pilot chute.

I also took some foam, rolled it up tight, sprayed it with hair spray and pushed it into the PVC handle. That way my finger doesn't go through the handle when I reach for it.

Scott

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Provided your rig is sized correctly for your canopy (i.e. you're not trying to stuff something really too big for it in the main pack tray), you shouldn't have any gear-related issues.

Use a slightly longer bridle by all means - but not too long or you can get entaglement issues. I never have lengthened my bridle for wingsuit skydiving and haven't suffered in my >250 wingsuit jumps. I generally use either a Safire2 129 or a Xfire2 109 which have always opened on-heading.

In my experience, most newbies should concentrate on getting their body position right, rather than trying to blame their equipment.
--
BASE #1182
Muff #3573
PFI #52; UK WSI #13

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