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steve1

Using a football chincup

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First I had better explain that I know almost nothing about camera flying. Second of all I am a really cheap bastard. Yet I would like to begin dabbling in camera flying my own fun jumps. Don't start laughing as I explain further, because I know there are some really good camera flyers on here, (such as Quade). But at any rate I have this old protec helmet that I am thinking of attaching a football chin strap to. The buttons are fairly easy to attach after drilling a few holes. My question is, would this be smart, and would it work, (to get started with?) I know you need a reliable quick release and I also don't want to lose my camera too bad. Or is this a realy, realy, stupid idea? Be kind, I'm new at this. I have plenty more stupid questions, but I think I'll stop here for now. Steve1

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They work... not the bst but they work. 2 tandem flyers at the DZ use them just like you are describing. The thing that I learned after getting my camera is to have a second helmet for those jumps where you don't want the camera. And believe me.. there are jumps like Solos and night jumps where you want a helmet... but don't want to have to screw with the camera.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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Im thinking, bad, bad idea. Spend the money, and buy a better built helmet. Boneheads are pretty reasonably priced . No matter what you plan to use, have an experienced camera guru at your DZ check out your set up before you jump it, so you dont loose your gear or your head due to riser snag

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You are a D licensed rigger with 465 jumps according to your profile. I'd think you'd know.[:/]

A football chinstrap on a Protec would not be a good idea, but it would work. There's a manufacturer who makes mounts for it. Para-something.

In motorcycling we say if you've got a $5 head, buy a $5 helmet.

Nobody's a cheap bastard in the emergency room, and there's no such thing as a cheap medivac. If it's stable and low profile, and securely attached to your head (it can kill others on the plane in a crash if it's not, or others in freeflight and on the ground if you lose it) it should work.

Good luck.

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Deuce,
Thanks for your input. I plan to research this carefully before going with a setup that is a danger to myself or others. I wonder though if cost in this sport or money spent on gear really represents safety. I jump a Z-1 normally and I really can't see how this is truly a safe helmet even though it sells for close to $300. An old used protec which sells for $20. might offer more protection. I think the same might be said for an expensive custom harness with mini-rings versus an older used cheap rig with regular sized rings. Which is stronger and safer? If I can come up with a camera helmet that is safe and cheap I'll be happy at present. I really don't care if it's stylish. I can also understand the point that I don't know what I'm doing yet, so I know I need to consult the wisdom of others. I am just wondering why this chin strap might not work well and why it would be inferior to others. I really appreciate your input, but I'm just wondering why this wouldn't work. It sounds like some other camera flyers are already using them. Thanks, Steve1

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Sorry to sound so bitchy:P

One of the FF team members at Davis, Scott, uses a football chinstrap with his Hawkeye LT. It works fine for him. They're sponsored by the helmet manufacturer, I think, so it's his choice, not a cost thing.

http://www.pia.com/skydance/system3.htm

At that cost, though, you might consider a bonehead or hawkeye.

system3.gif

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I have used a football chin cup on a Protek for over 300 camera jumps. Another tandem videographer at my DZ has used one for about 1500 camera jumps. They work fine.

The only downside is the lack of a 'quick release'. You need to practice ditching the helmet on the ground a bunch. Really this just means pulling two straps instead of one, but you can also get fancy and have a rigger (or yourself) sew the two strap ends together (or withg a piece of webbing) and viola, a quick release.

Most people who preach quick release will also insist that you cut off the regular chip strap on the Protek. I still have mine on, maybe not the best idea, but I have managed to knock the chin cup off before, and I really don't want to lose my cameras. Flame away.

- Dan G

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I'm shoulder to shoulder with DanG here. I have both straps and will keep them.

An inadvertent stike on the chin ratchet will release it from your head. The three snaps of a football chinstrap and a regular strap might be a little slow.

My hawkeye is one-two fast. Ratchet-fastex bye bye video flying for at least a year while I save up to replace that stuff.

I wish Larsen-Brusgaard made cameras. I dropped my Protek and Ditter from 14 K and they're none the worse for wear.

I don't think I'd be so lucky with my Sony and my NikonB|

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Try this the next time at a DZ. Put the helmet on and have some one pull up HARD on the camera and shake it to simulate a line snag. Only use one hand to release the entire set up. The other hand might be in use trying to keep the spin from getting to wild. The buckles just don't cut it... And neither do the chin cup releases.... Both take 2 hands to operate at max speed.

I've HAD my chin cup get knocked off on exit and since my helmet fits like a glove all I had to do was snap it back on in freefall. If the helmet was loose I'd be scared of losing it but since I can invert with the entire system on my head with no buckles and it don't fall off... I'm not worried.

Best thing to do IMHO is rig up a cutaway system that is a one handed operation to release the system. Then you only need the chin cup, run it tight and away you go...
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

Parachutemanuals.com

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I've got both straps on my helmet (incl. Bonehead chincup with ratchets), I've got the following quick release system :

A swage that clips onto two press-studs on the right back side of my helmet. This swage is attached to 2 short kevlar cables which are tucked under the edge of my helmet (I used some thread to make sure they stay tucked out of sight). I've replaced the nut and bolt (connecting the strap to the helmet) with a short closing loop (made of '1000 spectra line). The loop comes through the hole in the helmet and the two kevlar cables go through it. The other end of the loop is knotted with a little washer between the knot and the strap. The helmet strap is on the outside between the washer and the hole in the helmet.

What I like about this simple system is that I only need one hand (both can reach the swage on the back of the helmet) to cutaway the helmet. Once that cutaway has been pulled and the cables have cleared the loop BOTH straps are no longer attached to the helmet on that side.

If anyone is interested I can post pics of it tomorrow night. I like this system because it is simple, yet allows me to keep both straps for peace of mind. I copied this idea off Bob Spratley who gave me a lot of good advice.

(sorry about the long explanation perhaps pics would be better)

Will

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>If anyone is interested I can post pics of it tomorrow night.

Please do.

Am I to understand that you have nothing in the system to provide mechanical assistance to it? Such as three ring release? Or the "one-ring-release" in this thread.

Have you tried to load the system and then cutaway? ie. somebody trying to pull off your head while you try to pull the cutaway handle? :S:P

Erno

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