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Airviking

Stowing brake lines

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Can't tell on your pictures, but if the lower toggle tab is open at both sides, stick the slack (downwards) into the lowest tab, before you put the toggle in. It's how I stow my brake lines on my b2b rig (keep forgetting to ask my rigger to sew some elastic keepers on). If not, or for a nicer solution, a rigger can sew on some keepers for you for a few bucks.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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It's hard to tell from the pics, but is there a loop or sheath on the back of the risers, behind the toggle?

If so, you just fold the excess in half, and slip it into the 'keeper' on the back of the riser. If there is no keeper, you can have one sewn on for a few bucks.

If there is no keeper, you can get a small stow band and attach it to the guide ring and use that to stow your excess. You might even cut the band lengthwise to make it 'skinnier' so it's easier to stow and takes up less space. There is a chance that your steering line will rub up against the band during canopy flight, but all this will do is rip the band off the ring, so have a few extras on hand.

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Or, as the risers are not hooked up to a canopy, just put a small band over the riser and move it down to the place where the elastic keeper would be.
"The ground does not care who you are. It will always be tougher than the human behind the controls."

~ CanuckInUSA

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Or, as the risers are not hooked up to a canopy, just put a small band over the riser and move it down to the place where the elastic keeper would be.



And disconnect the lines on the risers whenever the band needs to be replaced. :P

Having someone sew a little support tape to the front of the riser would be the best option IMO.
"I may be a dirty pirate hooker...but I'm not about to go stand on the corner." iluvtofly
DPH -7, TDS 578, Muff 5153, SCR 14890
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Thanks all,

There's no extra pocket or loop for mounting a rubberband to. Dave, yeah, I thought about just attaching a small rubberband to the ring, but didn't want to introduce rubber into the brake line mechanism that might interfer with steering function.

Short-term I'll figure something out. May even be sort-term enough that the stow band -over-riser may work.

Long-term, I'll have a shi-shi little pocket sewn on each one.;)

I believe you have my stapler.

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It doesn't seem like a good idea to have a hole put in the riser so that the snap can be installed. Seems better to sew another layer of fabric on top of the riser to allow the installataion of the snap.
People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am

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It doesn't seem like a good idea to have a hole put in the riser so that the snap can be installed. Seems better to sew another layer of fabric on top of the riser to allow the installataion of the snap.



Did you mean to reply to me?
What snap?

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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It doesn't seem like a good idea to have a hole put in the riser so that the snap can be installed. Seems better to sew another layer of fabric on top of the riser to allow the installataion of the snap.



Funny you should mention that...I was gonna save that for a different thread. I did a search under "snap", and found a thread about snap-retained toggles, and they did mention that the snap should mount to s separate layer of webbing so as to not compromise the integrity of the riser. That is however not how mine are constructed. But the risers are used but show no signs of badness around the snaps, so I'm willing to say that they are OK. Perhaps the holes for the snaps were formed with an awl, rather than punched.
I believe you have my stapler.

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A hole punched through one layer of type 17 sounds like a very bad idea. Remember at the three ring loop gromment it is multiple layers and they still failed. Type 17 risers had to be reenforced with type four in between the layers.

BTW if these risers don't have either red or blue type four tape visible when you look at the side of the stack at the grommet they shouldn't have been jumped BEFORE the snap. In my opinion they are trash if the snap is set through the type 17 webbing.
I'm old for my age.
Terry Urban
D-8631
FAA DPRE

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You don’t have to punch a hole in T-17 or T-8 to set a snap. The weave is soft enough to just push a finger trap (or knitting needle) through separating the weave, put the shank of the snap on the end of the finger trap and push it back through without breaking a single yarn.

Jeff

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BTW if these risers don't have either red or blue type four tape visible when you look at the side of the stack at the grommet they shouldn't have been jumped BEFORE the snap.



On this topic I ran across a few sets of type 17 risers recently where they used black type four tape on top of black type 17 webbing. That was seriously annoying since I stared for a few minutes and could not figure out what was not looking right.
Yesterday is history
And tomorrow is a mystery

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BTW if these risers don't have either red or blue type four tape visible when you look at the side of the stack at the grommet they shouldn't have been jumped BEFORE the snap.



On this topic I ran across a few sets of type 17 risers recently where they used black type four tape on top of black type 17 webbing. That was seriously annoying since I stared for a few minutes and could not figure out what was not looking right.


Type III
:)
My grammar sometimes resembles that of magnetic refrigerator poetry... Ghetto

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You don’t have to punch a hole in T-17 or T-8 to set a snap. The weave is soft enough to just push a finger trap (or knitting needle) through separating the weave, put the shank of the snap on the end of the finger trap and push it back through without breaking a single yarn.

Jeff



That sounds better than punching a hole. I still wonder what effect it has on the strength, as it would make sense that the yarns that have been pushed aside are going to be under greater stress and will fail before the rest of the webbing. Without more background/testing/field experience, it seems like a bad idea that could have been avoided.
People are sick and tired of being told that ordinary and decent people are fed up in this country with being sick and tired. I’m certainly not, and I’m sick and tired of being told that I am

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No tabs. The toggle has a snap on it, that snaps down to the riser. You can fab your own keepers to these, simple enough though. If no one else provides a pic/answer - sometime between tonight and tomorrow I plan on breaking out my rigs for their spring awakening from hibernation, and I have identical risers on one of them I will get a picture and instructions posted-up on for you then.
coitus non circum - Moab Stone

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If you are asking out of curiosity it’s a good discussion topic. But if you are thinking of buying them think again. They look like their useful life is over. There appears to be fraying to the point of broken tics in several places and the snaps look like they were put in with a snap set from the grocery store.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53825637@N06/5511624030/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/53825637@N06/5511623944/

Snaps on risers/toggles and riser covers have been tried in one form or another since the mid 70’s that I know of. Some designs were better than others.

Sparky
My idea of a fair fight is clubbing baby seals

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Hi sparky,

Quote

Snaps on risers/toggles and riser covers have been tried in one form or another since the mid 70’s that I know of.



When Security introduced their CrossBow system in early '64 it had snaps to hold the exposed risers in place. The snaps were on the reserve container & a piece of 1" tape/webbing that went around the riser(s).

Terry Urban: Can you put a photo up of your X-BO rig showing this setup?

JerryBaumchen

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