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iluvtofly

What would you do?

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Ok...I'm inbetween a rock and a hard place right now and could use some advice. I just drove down to Atlanta from Pennsylvania for a few weeks. On the way down my service engine soon light came on. So today I took it in to get looked at so that it wouldn't die on my way home. Turns out it needs $1600 worth of work done to it. Even if I were to get all of the work done the car would still only be worth $1400 resale. I can afford to buy a new (to me) used car at the moment but I know that in a year my financial situation is going to be changing and I may not be able to afford the payments then. What would you do?

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Why not buy a used car? Something you can afford now or pay off quicker?
"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke

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Ok...I'm inbetween a rock and a hard place right now and could use some advice. I just drove down to Atlanta from Pennsylvania for a few weeks. On the way down my service engine soon light came on. So today I took it in to get looked at so that it wouldn't die on my way home. Turns out it needs $1600 worth of work done to it. Even if I were to get all of the work done the car would still only be worth $1400 resale. I can afford to buy a new car at the moment but I know that in a year my financial situation is going to be changing and I may not be able to afford the payments then. What would you do?

I'm in a similar situation right now. Dont put $1600 into something that is only worth $1400. Scrap it, take the salvage value and use it to put a good down payment on a car. Go used if you have to....

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The Car Talk guys always say that if you can't buy a similarly reliable car for whatever the repair cost is, you're better off repairing. I.e. if fixing it will get you a better car than a $1600 used car, then go for the fix. But if you're just waiting for the next thing (e.g. tires are getting old, and the A/C is out, and you know the alternator's having problems), then it might be time to cut it loose.

If so, buy a different one you can pay cash for (or pay off before your income drops), and fix yourself. If you're not into fixing nohow noway, then get one that's got a superb reputation and a known pedigree (i.e. preferably one owner), and really stay up with its maintenance. Either way, stay up with the maintenance.

Atlanta's a big market, and there'll be a lot less rust on cars there; might not be bad to get one there. This would be a good time to call for help from your dz.com friends to find a reliable used car.

Personally, I wouldn't buy a new car under your circumstances. It's too likely to just force you to sell it under unfavorable circumstances.

Wendy W.
There is nothing more dangerous than breaking a basic safety rule and getting away with it. It removes fear of the consequences and builds false confidence. (tbrown)

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I can afford to buy a new (to me) used car at the moment but I know that in a year my financial situation is going to be changing and I may not be able to afford the payments then. What would you do?



I'd buy something I could pay off before my financial situation changed.
Owned by Remi #?

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You can find a car in reasonable condition for a lot less than 1600.
Whether or not to keep a car and pay the maintenance or get something else has a lot of (x) factors in it but here is a good guide.

If you have had to walk away from it more than once because of a mechanical failure and the total cost of repairs exceeded its blue book value.. cut your losses, take the tag off and have it CRUSHED.

Buying a used car is the challenge. Best deal is to buy from a private owner and ask to have a mechanic give it a check up before making the deal. Several websites have private owners selling their cars. If you can, take a long a friend that knows cars.

I bought a 1991 Ford Taurus with a V6, AC, and power everything for $1000. There are great deals out there from private owners.

AVOID 'buy here pay here' places. They will sell salvaged cars (which there are thousands of due to Hurricane Katrina) and they tend to want to over finance.

Hope this helps. Write me if you have any more questions regarding car shopping.

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What does it need to that they quoted you $1600 to fix??

There are ALOT of Shop that will sell you whatever they think they can instead of what you actually need.

Start by getting second opinions and avoid Dealerships (Same part at the dealer will cost less than a 1/4 of that price if it is available aftermarket.)

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my service engine soon light came on...



The replies so far are all way off base. Before deciding what to do with the car, you need to determine what's wrong with it.

That light can come on for very trivial reasons, like a simple bad tank of gas. After you drive it with a couple more tanks full of fresh gas, the light can go out by itself. It can also come on if the gas cap is not secured properly, as that prevents the pressurization that it wants. It could also be something like an EGR valve that is plugged, which may cost you a tiny amount of gas mileage, but won't hurt the engine.

The dealer should have told you the exact cause of the warning, which is a code downloaded from the car's computer chip. From that, you can decide whether to ignore it or not.

Just because it costs $1600 to "fix", doesn't mean it's not something simple and unimportant. An EGR valve on mine recently was going to cost $500 to replace by the dealer.

In many cases, you can continue to drive perfectly safely and reliably, while doing nothing about the light.

Put a piece of black tape over the light and keep on going.

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The main computer is shot, the front and back brakes are shot, and the front torque bar is broken. Unfortunately, most of those items I think will be expensive no matter where I get them.



Get a second opinion!

The computers are indeed expensive. But if it was "shot", the car wouldn't run at all. If the car runs okay, this may be BS.

Brakes are cheap - as little as $100, if you're just replacing the pads, and don't need the rotors/drums turned.

By they way, the serviceman can also reset the warning light to turn it off, and in some cases it will stay off.

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What kind of car?

Main Controller for many Cars can be bought for a Couple hundered. Takes about 20 minutes to install. Unplud old unit, Plug in new one. Some are located under the passengers side seat, Others are mounted on the Firewall. Usually not a big deal at all to replace.

Brakes front and Back.. $65 for Pads and another $100 if Rotors must be replaced (Assuming aftermarket is available). Just did new Pads, Rotors all the way around my Honda last week. Total Parts including all new rotors $165 and took me exactly 1 hour and 15 minutes from start to finish to do all 4 wheels.

Front torque Bar.. Junkyard for part. Not sure on time to install as I have never replaced one.

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Right on. Gotta agree with Johnrich. My mechanic told me that these onboard comps are so sensitive that if my 03 Outback had a single misfire on a sparkplug that the check engine light will come on. Everything he said is true. This morn in Montana It was 10 below zero. On a 1989 Ford Fiesta my check engine light came on. I shut the car off and restarted and the light was gone. I love it when things fix themselves.


I may be getting old but I got to see all the cool bands.

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The main computer is shot, the front and back brakes are shot, and the front torque bar is broken. Unfortunately, most of those items I think will be expensive no matter where I get them.



Get a second opinion!

The computers are indeed expensive. But if it was "shot", the car wouldn't run at all. If the car runs okay, this may be BS.

Brakes are cheap - as little as $100, if you're just replacing the pads, and don't need the rotors/drums turned.

By they way, the serviceman can also reset the warning light to turn it off, and in some cases it will stay off.



Take it to AutoZone for a free computer test. At least I think it's free. They should be honest...
"Mediocre people don't like high achievers, and high achievers don't like mediocre people." - SIX TIME National Champion coach Nick Saban

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It's a 95 Saturn SL with 127,000 miles. I'm going to call in the morning and get an exact list of what is wrong with it. About half way through him listing all the problems my mind just went blank and all I could think was that I'm screwed. I'm not exactly sure what is wrong with the rear brakes but he said that those would be about $400. Does anyone know of a place close to Canton that would be good to go to for a second opinion?


Thank you to everyone for all of your suggestions. I'm deffinately considering them all as options.

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1st impression....trade it off on a newer used car.
It sounds like it's getting to the part of it's lifespan where it will need $100-$200 month in repairs to keep it on the road. That's a good chunk of a payment for something that doesn't need repairs. Just something to think about.

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The main computer is shot, the front and back brakes are shot, and the front torque bar is broken. Unfortunately, most of those items I think will be expensive no matter where I get them.




does the car start???
does the car run????
transmission ok????
When you shift it... does it engage??
when you step on the brakes,,, will it stop?????
If your answers are all YES... then i'd keep driving it.... albeit, carefully....[:/]
don't go doing any " Ninety Left"... or "hard right".... or go squealing around corners.....of course...B|

sure, brake pads wear out....and usually announce the need for replacement by "chirping"... be careful about being sold rotors that you don't need.. and don't OVERpay if they simply re-machine the existing ones...
torque bar, front end issues, suspensions, tires,,, are all a judgement call...
The mechanic is thinking about HIS bills, and he might need your work to help pay 'em...
recomendations for service can vary according to mechanic....and whether his shop is running at capacity or NOT...

save the 1,600... use what part of it you MUST.... for some things..... But if the registration and inspection stickers are still current....and if you NEED to get to a dropzone....:P;)B|

you might be ok to simply,,,,
"keep On Truckin' !!!:PB|...
you might get another 6 months or even a year out of it......
good luck.

jmy

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What does it need to that they quoted you $1600 to fix??

There are ALOT of Shop that will sell you whatever they think they can instead of what you actually need.

Start by getting second opinions and avoid Dealerships (Same part at the dealer will cost less than a 1/4 of that price if it is available aftermarket.)



MMMM Just get a quote to fix it so you can get home, then sell it.
```````````````````````````````````
" Cant keep a good woman down "
Angels have wings, but devils can fly !

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transmission ok????



That's part of what scares me. My transmission occasionally slips and the mechanic said it's because of the way that the computer is malfunctioning.



I could get bagged for this but get a guy to take it in for a quote, some mechanics car sales people will try to take the piss out of women.
```````````````````````````````````
" Cant keep a good woman down "
Angels have wings, but devils can fly !

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What kind of car?

The broken torque tube sounds expensive. Does it lean to one side? With a broken suspension part like that it should. The computer can be replaced by you for much less.

I'd (1) get a second opinion, more specific than "computer is shot." Find out why that is the diagnosis. Some mechanics are little more than guessing parts swappers.

(2) Buy a manual for your car and see how hard some of the repairs seem for doing it yourself.

Good luck.

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(0.02)

IIRC, most of what the engine light deals with is emissions stuff. Some of it can cause the engine damage over LONG periods, but in the relatively short term it's no biggie. Especially if it's an EGR or O2 sensor causing the light, you might see some decrease in mileage.

Like someone else said, go to AutoZone or wherever to get a free download of the error codes causing the light. See what it says.

Remember: if it was running OK when you pulled it into the repair bay, chances are it's going to run just as well when you pull it out of the bay. If it ain't really broke, don't fix it.

Elvisio "a good repairman is like a good doctor, worth the trouble of finding" Rodriguez

(/0.02)

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Ok...I'm inbetween a rock and a hard place right now and could use some advice. I just drove down to Atlanta from Pennsylvania for a few weeks. On the way down my service engine soon light came on. So today I took it in to get looked at so that it wouldn't die on my way home. Turns out it needs $1600 worth of work done to it. Even if I were to get all of the work done the car would still only be worth $1400 resale. I can afford to buy a new (to me) used car at the moment but I know that in a year my financial situation is going to be changing and I may not be able to afford the payments then. What would you do?



The car's worth in dollars to the average buyer isn't relevant to you unless you plan on trading it in. Given that you can't afford to do that,

If you can buy a more reliable used car with sufficient life left on its brakes, etc. for $1600 out right plus whatever you can pay off before your situation changes, do that.

Otherwise you'll come out ahead financially by fixing yours provided that the expected maintenance costs are less than what you'd be willing to put out in payments until your situation changes.


Shop arround for a better mechanic. Honesty about what's wrong and prices vary radically.

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