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    + Silhouette 190
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    Cypres 2

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  1. IJskonijn

    Using risers with RSL on other side..

    If the ring end up on the wrong side of the riser (outboard while the RSL shackle is inboard), I would recommend against it. In that case, routing the RSL properly is going to be much more difficult, and much more error-prone. Better to get a new set of risers, or find a Master Rigger willing and able to add an RSL ring to the correct riser in the correct place. That shouldn't be an expensive job.
  2. IJskonijn

    Parasummer 2019

    Whoops, time to book my plane tickets again. I've been going to Parasummer for three years now, and every time they managed to hit the right balance between a low-pressure cozy boogie, and solid organization. Perfect for a foreign holiday that includes some of the most awesome views I've seen from above. Veteran's tip: bring liquorice for the manifest/info desk. They seem to like it.
  3. IJskonijn

    Insurance for jumping in Europe?

    I have never jumped in those specific countries, but I have jumped in nearby countries (Poland, Romania). Home is the Netherlands for me. In all cases, I never needed additional insurance over the default insurance that the KNVvL membership provides, which is 1.5M€ secondary third-party liability insurance (secondary, as in it only pays if I have no other insurance that covers it, and it only pays for damages caused to third-parties). I don't remember if they even needed that, although jumping in the UK did require that insurance. In practice, rules and regulations are likely different between each of those countries. The most fool-proof method would be to contact prospective dropzones on your route and ask them directly what kind of insurance you'll need to be allowed to jump.
  4. IJskonijn

    Viso 2

    My suggestions: 1. Check that it has the correct batteries, and that they are installed with the correct polarity. VISO II needs CR-2325 batteries. 2. Check with new-new batteries. Maybe your 'new' set of batteries have been laying around for too long, and lost too much juice to power up the altimeter. 3. If the problem is still there, I suggest you contact L&B directly, especially if your altimeter is still within warranty.
  5. IJskonijn

    Shelf life on containers?

    Yeah, but is it the "20 years" or the "heavy use, getting fuzzed up from wear or heavily faded from sunlight" that's at the root of the strength loss?
  6. IJskonijn

    Riser design & toggle fires

    (Not my reserve ride, nor my canopy, nor my gear decisions) Risers had no slider bumpers. Slinks and type 17 risers. So yeah, the likely mechanism was the slider slamming into the top tuck tab of the toggle, and dislodging it. Are there commercial risers for sale that have this design toggle, but with normal three-ring system, rather than reversed layout? Or would that require the efforts of a master rigger to create?
  7. IJskonijn

    Riser design & toggle fires

    Having spent the better part of my sunday with four clubmates recovering a chopped canopy out of some trees (result: succes!), I started thinking about steering toggles, half-brake settings and toggle fires. The canopy was chopped because of a toggle fire (jumper landed uneventfully under reserve). What's the best riser design you've seen so far in terms of reducing/eliminating the risk of toggle fires upon opening, and why? What are the elements that go into making something that is highly resistant to unintended toggle release?
  8. IJskonijn

    Weight Loss + Jumping (Landing) at Altitude

    Easy, it all has to do with air density. At high altitude, the air is less dense. This means that your canopy (all else kept equal) will have lower air resistance at the same speed. Thus, for steady flight in less dense air the canopy ends up going faster. Both faster forward, and faster downwards. Both of these is also something a smaller canopy will do relative to a larger canopy (at same exit weight). To counter this behaviour, the best way is to increase canopy size.
  9. IJskonijn

    Weight Loss + Jumping (Landing) at Altitude

    1) At my home club, a wingloading of 1.22 would be considered too high for a 38-jump A-licensed student. Conventional wisdom calls for a wingloading around 1.0. But if you are 82kg now, and add ~15kg for equipment, your exit weight would be around 95-100kg. Round up to 100kg, and you would need a 220sqft canopy to hit 1.0 wingloading. 2) Breaking stuff on every landing is indeed unsustainable. High altitude is typically equated to an effective smaller canopy size. So you will likely need to jump a bigger canopy. But you also need to be able to roll out a landing. Practice it lots on the ground, and upsize further if needed. Upsizing is underrated. My advice: find a colorado-local skydiving club, and talk with their instructors. Let them know your history and experience (bring your logbooks) and listen to their advice regarding canopy and training. They should know how to handle students jumping in higher altitudes, and they should have the correct student gear available for rent.
  10. Honestly, if your body can't handle the occasional quicker openings (I'm not talking the out-of-the-ordinary slammers), then I should at least think twice before skydiving. Because any high-speed malfunction (pilot-chute in tow, or just unable to pull it, or whatever) will result in your reserve opening while you're at terminal velocity. That opening won't be soft and snivelly by any stretch of the imagination. There is an element of risk inherent to this sport. You can do many things to reduce it like get a canopy designed and known for soft openings, get dacron lines, pack super-duper-well (or super-duper-trashy, sometimes that also depends on the canopy), and several other things alluded to in this thread. You cannot completely eliminate the risk of either canopy opening like shit. If you want to reduce the risk of hard openings as much as possible, I suggest you also talk to some riggers. Plural, each rigger has their own experiences, and none of them is godlike and all-knowing.
  11. IJskonijn

    Non-permanent marking of line attachment points

    Height of the lines is something we use already, but is not foolproof (for example, the steering lines with toggles set are about the same length as the C-lines). I might prefer using cotton instead of nylon. The marking thread won't have any load-bearing function, and I would rather that it brakes if it somehow does come under tension.
  12. IJskonijn

    Non-permanent marking of line attachment points

    Unfortunately, it's not that simple because I'm not the only one who has to make the decision (to be precise: this is about me wanting to improve the way our students learn packing, but I'm not the head honcho in charge of our clubs equipment). So with the restriction that no markers can be used anywhere, even on non-loadbearing parts, what are other ways to more easily differentiate lines into the different linegroups are possible?
  13. IJskonijn

    Non-permanent marking of line attachment points

    Quick search through these forums result in many different opinions about marking line attachment points for ease of identification during packing. Some of you are absolutely convinced marking with [favourite-marker-type] can do no harm, some of you are already lighting the torches to burn people at the stake for doing it. That got me thinking: would there be a method for non-permanent marking of line attachment points without using any marker or pen or anything liquid based, thus sidestepping that whole rabbit hole. Do any of you have any experience with tying small pieces of coloured string through the line attachment points (no piercing of the actual tape) for this purpose? Does it actually help packing? Does it show any extra wear on the line attachment tapes? What exact material did you use for it? I'm thinking something nylon, since the tape is already nylon so I wouldn't expect any adverse material/material interactions.
  14. IJskonijn

    Spectre or storm ?

    Skills, much more important than canopy type.
  15. Piecing some stuff together is a perfectly valid way. Especially if you're kinda picky about your reserve type/size, main type/size etc, it's a better road than waiting for the perfect complete rig to float by on the classifieds. However, do get in touch with a local rigger about this. For one, he/she usually has an idea of what's for sale in the immediate vicinity (and might even have something directly for sale), and secondly the entire assembly needs to be compatible. Not a huge issue, but a rigger is the perfect way to ensure that main/reserve/AAD/rig are indeed going to play nicely together. Also, start reading these forums about mains, reserves, AADs, rigs etc. For example, reserve size is something you'll have to think about. There are some schools of thought, from "reserve should be similar in size to the main" (makes them play nice in the event of a two-out), to "reserve size should be as large as will reasonably fit in the rig" (my preference, because I'd rather have more fabric than less fabric over my head in case of an emergency). And talk about it with people (especially instructors/riggers) at your own DZ.