jmfreefly

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Everything posted by jmfreefly

  1. Seems like you only did step 1 of a 2 step process. All the mods I have seen to open the corners also involved bartacking it lower. Sounds like you didnt do that?
  2. Completely off subject, I noticed your avatar is missing a key piece of hardware...
  3. Ok, jp gets the prize for being more helpful than I.
  4. My only gripe about Wings is how dang expensive it is to replace Freebag, PC, Pop-top. The do all custom colors,etc. to match the missing one for the same price. But, that price is way more than Jav or Mirage. Like try about $100 more. When a guy borrowing my rig (won't do that again), had a reserve ride, it was like $360! (including repack and a bottle for my rigger) That is insane. (Including custom tie dye handles) Even more so that the prick still owes me $230 of that six months later. Anyway. j
  5. Another option is a Crappie fishing rod. They are flexible and come in various sizes 6-20 foot and collapsible. I think I bought mine for like 12 bucks. I think many windblade mfgs use crappie rods j
  6. I think you will also find that if a rigger re-seals the reserve (from a broken seal, or a cypress re-install), that the won't change the pack date (as they didn't actually do a re-inspection and re-pack). Otherwise, that is just pencil packing. I guess there is nothing stopping them from doing your little scenario. As someone stated, the seal only is a certification that the rigger states 'this has been packed properly, and been inspected and packed within the proper repack cycle' If the rigger can certify all of that after a cypress re-install, then the rigger can put their seal back on (to 're-certify' the last repack on the pack data card). I know a few riggers that would not reseal the rig for just a broken seal. The would at least open up the rig to double check to make sure that everything is kosher (they may not do a full repack). They do more than just reseal if they can't 100% certify the packjob. j
  7. Also realize that 'size' is not always equal between mfgs (or even within a mfg.. case in point, Safire and Safire2 have size calculated differently) I agree with you that the Nitron turns slower (to my feel). But it can dive like a banshee (looking for that pelvis breaking spot).
  8. On the DVD thought, I remember reading something about CDs and DVDs where the organic substrate (?) started breaking down in just a few years and rendering the disc unreadable. Ah.. here it is.. I think it is only an issue with burnable media, not presssed media (?). http://www.cdfreaks.com/news/7751 Cites a dutch study on CD-R media saying basically that some of the media became unreadable within just 20 months.. That is just a side tidbit though.. as DVDs are not a useful backup media to me.
  9. Exactly. Hey alan, I scratched my head as to where to post, and this was my best guess. If it didn't belong here, I figured it would get moved. No big deal, I took my best shot at it. And second. If you don't like the thread, don't read it! Simple as that. I am sure you could figure out the nature of the thread from the first post. No worries though, everyone is entitled to their opinion. j
  10. Me and TheMonkey made a tube, so can offer some advice,etc. depending on what you are looking for. Rule number one: Make sure you are using durable grommets. :) Our first attempt - the grommet deformed and the tube released. DOH! Very funny to watch on video. I think I have a handful of pics at home of our construction process if you are really interested. j
  11. Wow.. that looks very wierd to me. I would have to double check my rigs (if it ever gets unpacked with this crappy cold nasty weather) to see if they have this. My recollection is that they don't. I believe bkdice's rig also doesn't have that. My first reaction is that it is a sewing error, but I would have to compare them side to side... How old is the rig? Do those pics have the reserve packed, or unpacked? If it is empty, the shape can be significantly different.. My first wings has a little bit of an 'overhang' into the main pack tray, but nothing like that.. My newer wings is much more 'straightwalled'. Is there a 'hole' into the reserve tray at the corners? j
  12. Or, you could just download the pics that people are posting. oh, with their permission of course. You have my permission.
  13. Of all the dive loop setups I have used, the Wings setup has been the most user friendly, The top of the loop is parallel to the riser, but the bottom of the loop is perpendicular to the riser. This makes them easy grabs, as they stay open to the side of each riser. I have re-created this style on older risers with no loops, and it is pretty easy to do. Of course, it is just as easy to buy a set from SRI. Another option a guy at our dz has is to use horse wrap. He says it is always easy to grab, and never has an issue about getting 'tangled up' in the loop by accident. I personally have never had an issue, but I have heard that some people have. j
  14. Ran across this pic of 3 of 8 the Wings at our dz (bkdice, myself, and Cat), and figured I'd post it. Anybody else got good pics of their Wings?
  15. According to dpreview... 3 frame per second (up to 12 consecutive shots with JPEG format, 4 shot with RAW format) Also, it doesn't list a wired remote..
  16. That is what I meant to convey. Square 1 sold them, but were made by someone else.
  17. I am just wondering who is swimming 20 laps with sneakers on..
  18. I would chop the excess of the ringsight. I would have also routed the bite switch from the other side. It is just one more thing to get in the way of the 2-ring release. I agree, get a quick release (strobo or a velbon). If you fabricated the top plate, you might be able to recess the quick release mount to make it more snagproof (a bonus). Looks like good fit and finish though! j
  19. I'll also agree with the statement "If you have to think about flying, don't strap on a camera" In preparing for a recent video seminar at our dropzone, I looked back in my logbook for my first video jump. My logbook entry is a perfect example that jumping camera adds complexity to each jump. In retrospect, I feel like I got into it way to early. If you aren't able to fly yourself well in lots of situations, you won't be a good camera flyer. If you can't deal with all the added saftey aspects of flying camera, then you won't be a safe camera flyer. Even as I close on 1000 jumps, I find that (for example) if I jump without a camera I fly 100 times better. Even though I have gotten used to dealing with the added burden of flying camera, it still consumes some of my 'clock cycles' in my brain, that could be used for other things. I also know that the 'lure' of video is strong. Seeing other folks at the dz all laughing/gawking over video from their jump is definitely a "I want to join in too" type thing. In the long run, you will always be better served by waiting and building your flying/safety skills. just my .02 j
  20. Superbands are from aerodyne Skybands are from west coast (?) through square 1(?) I used superbands and hated them. Way too stiff for me (harder to pack). I have used skybands, and love em. They are very durable (low frequency of replacement), stretch as much as regular bands, but do have the 'they dont break as easy' "worry". I believe that the guy who made the skybands isn't making/selling them anymore (??). Or he couldn't reproduce the original rubber formula accurately enough. I sure hope they come back before I need to buy more bands (I have had 2 bags of small bands for about 2 years.. I have about a bag left. That is how long they last). The skybands are a tiny bit more 'slippery' when they are first put on. I had a problem with line dump on my Nitron (with the very tiny, very slippery HMA lines), so I double stow the non-locking stows, with very small bites (to prevent baglock complications). No more problems. Hope that helps. j
  21. Here is a pic of my 'flying molar' suit made from that pattern. Dubbed flying molar because it is all white, and I looked like a tooth when flying head down in it.
  22. You might want to try to track down Jon Woo http://www.deafskydivers.org/Profiles/JohnWoo/JohnWoo.html, who helped organize the Deaf record attempts. http://www.deafskydivers.org/contents.htm I 'talked' with him (through my severely limited sign language, and with the help of Cat, one of the two deaf skydivers at our dropzone, as an interpreter) at CSS last easter, and I think he helped in the Timeout flashing edition development. I could be seriously mis-quoting what he said, however. Anyway, when I was looking into a 'remote speaker' audible, I tracked down this site. They list a second speaker and an LED flashing unit as 'future' developments. http://www.skydivetimeout.com/ I am not sure if they are still in business, but I found a place down in Deland that sold the audibles (new). You might try to get ahold of the folks listed on the website I listed and see if you can get the connector to make your own LED. The other option, is of course, track down the old flashing time-out. I see them every once and a while for sale used. Hope that helps. j
  23. Yeah, most of the handles are fairly easy to remove, and usually only involve removing the door cover. I have done this on 100's, 120's 9's, 105's.. Just so you know, you will have to put the handle back on for most places to service it. I just got a quote from MACK camera for a PC100 (under their 5 year warranty) to fix the tape loading mechanism. They wanted to charge me several hundred dollars to put all the handles and doors that I took off. I said "Just don't fix that then", and they said "we can't do that -- it has to be in perfect working order when we send it back". That is a bunch of baloney, but I have no way to argue. Sony also put the handles back on twice, once under their 'fix it for one price'-deal, and the other for external damage (ripped off lens from a high speed freefly accident). In the second, I think they did charge me for them also. Just an FYI j
  24. ugh.. yeah, your idea confirmed it --it is way beyond what I would want to do.
  25. I haven't tried it, so I don't really know. It seems to me that 'zooming' would induce too much variability, as you might not zoom it the same each jump? If so, that would make sighting it a bit more difficult (due to paralax issues)