Canon 7D for jumping?

[Tink1717 2]

I'm considering going to a 7d. Mostly for eeasons that have to do with non jumping photography. Anyone have this as a jumpcamera? What do you think?

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[DSE 3]

Search the forums?
It's heavy, and IMO, silly as a standard jump camera.
I have two.
And jump a T2i most of the time

[BMFin 0]

From the canon lineup, 7D would be my choice for skydive photography.

Everyone always says its too heavy, but the actual difference with the T2i is only 290 grams.

Gimme two and I jump them both.

[dragon2 0]

It's just 30g heavier than my current Nikon D300, so yeah I'd jump it.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[DSE 3]

At slightly over half a pound plus an already heavy 15mm lens...it's heavy (to me) for an all day camera.
But...to each his own.
I do jump mine for select jumps.

[AHoyThere 0]

I upgraded to the 7D mid to late summer. I upgraded from a 30D. My primary reason for changing was to get a better auto focus system. I had too many shots with the 30D that were just slightly out of focus. The 7D is much better in this regard. It is a heavy setup. But I don't shoot camera all day either. Most of my work is AFF. Three camera jumps in a day would be a lot for me. For me, I've been happy with the upgrade.

[Laszloimage 0]

If you want to mount that size and weigh on your helmet the 5D mk-II will give you significantly more "photographic value" than the 7D.
If skydiving is a major factor to chose a camera and you definitelly want to use an APS-C sensor then the T2i is a better option. The only reason is to get the 7D is if you have no knowledge of photography what so ever and you need to rely 100% on the camera's automatic features.
Remember the T2i has a same sensor as the 7D, so it can take the exact same quality picture.
-Laszlo-

[AHoyThere 0]

Is the T2i the same camera as the 550D?
Anyway, beyond the sensor (and obviously the lens) another thing that can help a camera take better quality pictures is if the subject is in focus. My 30D has a 9-point AF system. With just a little bit of use, my 7D has noticeably a MUCH better auto focus system.


From DPReview...

For swift and accurate focusing, the EOS 550D features a 9-point AF system with one extra-sensitive cross–type point at the centre for f/2.8 or faster lenses.


7D
New 19-point AF system. The new AF-system features 19 cross-type sensors and is highly customizable.

[DSE 3]

Quote

Remember the T2i has a same sensor as the 7D, so it can take the exact same quality picture.
-Laszlo-

Same sensor.
Not same processing, not same points, either.
But both are terrific cams

[Laszloimage 0]

"Not same processing"
As long as we shoot JPEGs...
...but if we take RAW images then it's the same. Right?

[BMFin 0]

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"Not same processing"
As long as we shoot JPEGs...
...but if we take RAW images then it's the same. Right?

Dual processor will allow 8fps. Comes in very handy when shooting sports.

[Laszloimage 0]

That is true as well. But I kinda pointed out the advantage of the 7D already in a less detailed form
"The only reason is to get the 7D is if you have no knowledge of photography what so ever and you need to rely 100% on the camera's automatic features."
...this includes the significantly faster burst mode too.

[BMFin 0]

Well this is where we think differently. Try telling some professional sport photographer "how he has no knowledge of photography what so ever and is relying on automatic features" when he is shooting fast bursts with 500mm lens at superbowl.

If you think you have the ability to pick and choose the fraction of a second moment from the action, I wish you good luck.

For example the 108 way had 5 photographers and only one of them managed to get the complete formation into frame. It was Brian Buckland. The formation flew about 1/3 seconds. Brian´s 5DmarkII shoots 3,9 fps and it was just barely fast enough.

Norman Kent and the other photographers didnt manage to get the frame.

This applies to lots of other scenarios also. When shooting fast VFS/FS, the formations wont fly more than a fraction of a second. You either get a frame or you dont..

[LukeH 0]

Auto-Focus is for the people that shoot skydives on "Sports Mode"

Auto-focus sucks for most regular jumps.
For most jumps you will know the distance and be using a fairly wide DOF so manual works better.

With Auto-Focus if the active focus points aren't on a point where they can easily focus, there is a delay between pressing the shutter release and the photo being taken or worst case the photo isn't taken at all.

[mccordia 73]

Aut-off-focus is how most people refer to the feature

JC
FlyLikeBrick
I'm an Athlete?

[AHoyThere 0]

I wouldn't know about that. I've never shot in Sports Mode.
I'd guess that in the past, probably about 80% of the time I'd use Shutter Priority and 20% Aperture Priority depending on what I was trying to do or setting up based on the available light. Most of the time trying to get a fairly wide depth of field with aperture setting in the 8.0 to 11.0 range. It's been a while since I looked it up but I'm pretty sure with the 20mm fixed (what I use most) that any setting 9.0 or above is going to have everything in focus. I don't see any real benefit to setting in the high teens or 20's unless the conditions are just too bright. I think generally that picture quality is going to be better in the middle range.

I've been experimenting lately with the 7D by manually setting both Shutter Speed and Aperture and letting the camera adjust exposure by automatically adjusting ISO. I thought the ability to do this would be totally cool. But the camera seems to struggle a bit. I'm finding too many shots where the camera tends to over expose with this setting and some times under exposed. For the most part it is working well but it isn't consistent enough for my taste.

But the ability for this camera to get super sharp pictures compared to my 10D and 30D is simply fantastic. I'd get frustrated with the other cameras when taking three shots within one second and one would be sharp and the others soft. This would happen too often (in my opinion) even with no noticeable change in composition, lighting, movement between the camera and the subject. Now sometimes, the images would have to be really blown up side by side on the computer to notice. But it does make a difference if you're going to make a 20x30 print.

The AF customization that is available on the 7D is very good. I like the zones feature. And the ability to have the camera give priority to speed of shooting or give priority to sharper focus. Bottom line is it all keeps getting better, and there is always something new to learn.

[dragon2 0]

Hmm I don't agree with that. I did use to shoot stills on manual focus, but now that the (my) cameras are good enough I shoot every skydive AF. I also have good (fast) lenses of course.

I rarely use AF during ground photography, but for skydiving, it works pretty much always, aside from the occasional exit shot (me in the door) but those were tricky with MF too.

My CX105 is on MF, BTW.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[AHoyThere 0]

Quote

Hmm I don't agree with that. I did use to shoot stills on manual focus, but now that the (my) cameras are good enough I shoot every skydive AF. I also have good (fast) lenses of course.

I rarely use AF during ground photography, but for skydiving, it works pretty much always, aside from the occasional exit shot (me in the door) but those were tricky with MF too.

My CX105 is on MF, BTW.

+1

[LukeH 0]

My experience is from a 350D with Canon 10-22 lens.

First few jumps were with auto-focus, some were ok, but on some I was expecting pictures where I knew I have clicked the switch but the frame was missing, or the picture was a little delayed.

I suspected AF was the culprit and switched to manual focus and didn't have a problem since.

As AHoyThere said, with an aperture of f8-f11 there is no need for AF when taking Air-Air stills. You'll know the distance you'll be for most of the jump anyway so why not set the focus for that on the ground? Eliminate the unnecessary focusing delays.

[DSE 3]

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Eliminate the unnecessary focusing delays.

There are none with good lenses, properly set up AF options, and a good body.

Depending on the lens, what I"m shooting I may well use AF.

[LukeH 0]

Quote

There are none with good lenses, properly set up AF options, and a good body.

What would you classify as a good lens and good body?

And what is a good set up AF for general purpose skydiving?

[dragon2 0]

I don't HAVE any focus delays. Nikon D300 + Nikon 16mm or Nikon 10.5mm.

I have way more flixibility this way, on exit shots and in-plane I can get very very close, under canopy I can shoot much farther away. I've never used the Canon 10-22, so not sure if a fixed 15mm lens would help you there, but if you jumped a better camera than the 350D (say a 50D) you'd probably not have any delays, either.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

[DSE 3]

Any of the "newer" Canon or Nikons with more accurate focus most ie; multizone focus modes work great as bodies. That said, don't use AI modes, I'm merely using it as an illustration.
I'm not a Nikonista...I only use Nikon lenses for motion picture work, so I only have a passing familiarity with their bodies.
I love the T2i, the 40/50D, the 7D, 5D. I only know one skydiving photographer that has a 1D, and he's well out the league of *most* skydiving photogs.


The 18/55 kit lens that comes with Canon cams is perfect for *most* aerial work without spending an arm and a leg.
For tandems, it's more than fast enough. It's challenged in the door of small aircraft such as a KingAir (trying to get the student in the door) but it's great for everything else. A 15mm is a little better, but you'll spend as much on the lens as on the body. It's cheap, lightweight, and is good in well lit to sunset conditions.
The Canon 15mm is better than the Sigma, IMO. It's significantly faster to focus.

[LukeH 0]

Thanks for the reply.
When i said slow to focus, I'm referring more to when the active spot (i usually just have the center spot active) is on a plain area, eg, dark patch of jumpsuit fabric, or empty sky in the middle of a formation. It's the lack of a good edge to focus on rather then the speed of the lens motor.

For general purpose skydives what focus points do you suggest are active?

[RMK 3]

I’m also looking into getting a DSLR and looking at the following:

Canon EOS 7D
Canon EOS 60D
Canon EOS 600D (new)

Price aside, the 7D is quite nice, but when I recently checked it out at a camera shop it was substantially larger/heavier than I imagined. Of course it’s more rugged (magnesium alloy body), but is it just too much of a lump to have on top of your helmet for fun use?

What are the thoughts on the 60D or the new 600D?

Re Lazlo’s comment on the 7D being suitable for inexperienced photographers – that applies to me, so it’s still in the running. I’d also want to use it for other outdoor/actions sports.

Model info: http://www.canon.co.uk/for_home/product_finder/cameras/digital_slr/

"Pain is the best instructor, but no one wants to attend his classes"