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gcollados

Nikon Cameras

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First of all I using a N2020 (35mm) and I already have nikon lenses.-

Second I dont like the 17-55mm that come in the canon xti kit.

Im not sure to change from nikon to canon... the only thing is the wire to operate the shutter...



If you're already all setup with Nikon equipment, don't switch over unless you're willing to fork out a whole lot of money.

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Nikon D40(x) is not jumpable, get a D70s/D80/D200. D70 is jumpable but with IR remote which is a pain. D50, not jumpable. Unless there is a Harbotronics-type mod done to it but why not buy a suitable camera in the first place...

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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I jump a D50, works good. It has auto iso, so all the pics in the plane come out good. It has an LCD on top of the camera so I can see the settings when it's on the helmet. I rewired an IR remote with a switch and took the light out and put it in front of the sensor on the camera. The only problem is that I can't hold the trigger down for rock and roll. I set the focus for closest subject, so it will shoot quicker. I just wish it had more pixels.

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Auto iso? Why would you use that? Just use the flash inside the plane, lower iso = less noise = better pics.

The IR remote thing is annoying at best, I jumped the d70 like that for a year. Totally worth it to either buy another camera (my excuse LOL) or get the harbotronics mod done.

All suitable nikon cameras have the lcd up top BTW.

ciel bleu,
Saskia

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I've had good results with the Nikon D70S

it will take a wired remote.....
I and another cameraperson at our club both use it.
the jack for the remote isn't a "pin type'...
rather a 'rectangular' shaped connect...
i lengthened the wired remote, spliced in a 6 pin plastic "molex connector" and ran the pendant down the sleeve of my jumpsuit...the splice block, lets me connect and disconnect the helmet from the jumpsuit, and I then stow the connection inside my suit... works good...
We also had some success splicing a conceptus tongue switch onto the cable in place of the factory pendant... My buddy uses that set-up.
attachments are from the D70S
j t

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I also have a Nikon D200 and found this link useful:

http://www.gophotography.net/tips/release.html

You need to spend some money on a Nikon cable to connect to the 10 pin connection and then do a bit of soldering...but i could so most likely You can too

Anders B. Larsen



Thanks but I already took care of it last week. Works like a charm....






Action©Sports

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So... i just bought a Nikon D40X and im wondering how i can wire it up to a tongue switch - does anybody have any ideas? Zee, how did you do yours?



I'm not sure on the D40x. From what I understand, it uses an infrared wireless remote where the D200 can use the standard 10 pin remote release cable. That might be a bit more tricky to wire up. I'm sure it can be done but you might void the warranty on your camera.






Action©Sports

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Ok, I took apart the remote and cut the end off the tongue switch and stripped the wires back. When i hold the wires on the exposed corresponding parts of the circuit board, it works and takes a picture when i press the tongue switch. Only problem is, I tried to solder it but the solder wouldnt take to the board. Im thinking either the soldering iron i tried to use was too big or the solder (tin/lead) is not compatible with the metal used on the board. When i figure out how to make it happen ill let you al know!

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either the soldering iron i tried to use was too big or the solder (tin/lead) is not compatible with the metal used on the board.



The board is probably varnished. Scrape or lightly sand the board at the places you intend to solder till the metal looks bright. Then use a bit of soldering flux. If your soldering iron is BIG beware not to overheat the components on the board (or the board itself).

Carlos Martins
Portugal www.cj.smugmug.com

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Sorry, cant do pics, I already siliconed it to my helmet but here is where i found out how to do it. http://thehowzone.com/how/D70-Remote/2 awesome instructions. I didnt make the jack like this guy, i just chopped the plug off my tongue switch and soldered the wires straight onto it. Works a treat.

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Alright thanks mate, this is a very good instruction indeed.
But one last question. Maybe it got lost in translation for me, but where are exactly the two points which fire the IR when connected? The two little holes which you can see on page three, on the very first picture, just above the plug this guy attached? Cheers Chris
I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

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Alright dudes,
I came up with a total different solution where NO SOLDERING is involved. And before you read the rest of this gibberish, be aware that I've no education in electronics at all. So if there's any error in reasoning, please tell me.
Here's what I did.
I took a short piece of cable and deinsulated it. I short-circuited the "gray-finger section", which is described here http://thehowzone.com/how/D70-Remote/3 and fixed the cable with tape.
So now the button to activate the IR is "pressed".
Next step was to loop another cable around the contact for the battery (the one, which is touching the flat side of the battery). I put tape over this as well so the battery circuit CAN'T be CLOSED.
I took another cable and taped it to the battery itself. I cut a small hole in the side of the remote to get the two cables out. After that, I reassembled the whole thing.
So now, if you connect the two cables from the battery, you close the circuit of the battery itself which can't be done normally, because of the tape in between the two contacts. The little cable, which replaces the "pressed button" does the rest and KATCHINNN...
Hope that helped.
I'm a British nanny, and I'm dangerous!

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Canon really does sock doesn't it? You just plug any 2.5mm mouth switch, bite switch, tounge switch, or anything and ready to go.
Sorry being sarcastic...
Anyway, if there's enough demand I can start making the Nikon version of the Pro Mouth Switch.
Does anyone interested?
-Laszlo-

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